I Designed an Adapter to Swap Between Hotends!
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- Head to squarespace.com/PROPERPRINTING to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code PROPERPRINTING
In this video I show the concept of quick swapping between different hotends on the experimental belt driven extruder AKA The Proper Extruder. This idea is inspired from one of my first videos about a swappable hotend.
You can download the files from here: properprinting.pro/product/pr...
Please use one of my affiliate links to support my work:
The equipment I mostly use:
FDM printers:
- Creality Ender 3 pro: geni.us/KDfgpA
- Creality Ender 3 S1 pro: geni.us/n03Ah
- Creality CR-30 Printmill: geni.us/8zMA
Resin printers:
- Anycubic Photon Mono X: geni.us/Ijcw2
- Anycubic Photon Mono X 6K: geni.us/hRMBSB9
- Anycubic Photon M3 Max: geni.us/8wGZDd
Tools:
- Proxxon Micro-press MP 120: geni.us/Ku69Lp
Materials:
- FDM: www.3d4makers.com/
- Resin: www.3dresyns.com/
The software and sites I use:
-Music source: Epidemic sound www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
Check the merch on merch.properprinting.pro/
My designs can be downloaded from my website www.properprinting.pro/
Consider becoming a Patreon supporter: www.patreon.com/properprintin...
Or buy me a coffee! ko-fi.com/properprinting/
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:16 The concept
0:54 Satisfying montage
2:37 Adding the electronics
5:16 Squarespace
6:21 First test
8:08 Making the other tools
9:45 Explaining the concept
11:16 3D print montage
12:17 Rounding up - Věda a technologie
If you have an idea which extruder would be interesting to fit on here, let me know! Only the files of the standard Proper Extruder are available on my website for now, but I’ll add this version soon :D
What would be to have to both sides longer X axis, and the connector would be the magnetic like - eg. magsafe connectors... That way would be able to use a set of extruders that the printer could replace automagically in between printing process. Using both sides of the printer as extruder host, and reuse of your invention as flipping between heads - would be really interesting.
hotswapping a mini dremel for mixed additive and subtractive ?
Pellet extruder designed by you 😉
I'm really interested to see if the belt design eliminates the issue of "inconsistent extrusion" toothed hotends have! if so, I'm building one asap!
I really think your belt design would be perfect for that, as it doesn't deform the filament while gripping it! I really should give it a try or something similar, like a super grippy neoprene wheel instead of teeth
Great design! 👏😎 The 2 x M3 screws holding the V6 collar is a pretty smart idea!
Thanks! It was a workaround for the bowden tube that was sticking out, but it turns out to be a good working solution on itself!
Agreed - the M3 screws thing was genius!
I wonder if a grub screw or two driven into the groove mount _perpendicularly_ (the tip of the screw slightly digging into the aluminium, not cutting threads into it) would have worked well enough... 🤔
Cutting threads is no doubt stronger, but the heatsink shouldn't see huge rotational forces (or the heat break would … um … _break_ 👀) so grub screws might be enough.
Grub screws/perpendicular screws might require less force to install, too - I'm not sure I'd trust a FFF-printed part to survive the forces needed for cutting threads :)
(For other extruders, I mean, not yours; e.g. adding grub screws to a Prusa i3's E3D V6 to stop it rotating)
Not that it matters much to me - my only printer uses a Hermes-branded Hemera so I haven't had to deal with groove-mount for a while :D
But I broke the wires of several thermistors and heater cartridges during nozzle changes when I was using the old V6, so I know that pain! 😫
Same solution was used to hold extruder in ROBO 3D R1, nothing new.
This is such an exciting project. Thanks for taking us along as you design and build all the parts. I particularly love the video editing; it's beautifully done and I’m sure a huge amount of work. I can’t wait to see your next installment!
Thank you!
Macro shots of this translucent parts during the print are an absolute pleasure to watch. And the music of your videos is always very good 👍 Without a resin printer I will never be able to build this neat piece of engineering you have created, but it's always amazing to look at the enhancements you're working on.
Thanks again for this contents!
First time I've ever seen a noctua fan picked for it's color scheme, love it!
Ready for a Proper Question? You making all these cool projects... ARE you also editing these cool videos yourself? Congrats!! I've been following your channel since the beginning - the quality of EVERYTHING increased dramatically!
Thanks a lot for your awesome comment! I do edit the videos myself, I really like this process and I've learned a lot throughout the course of the channel. Awesome to read that this is noticed, thanks!
What a freaking brilliant way to mount the groove-mount style hotends! Such a great video! The story telling, the progress, amazing. And yes, that skull print is ABSOLUTELY YOU!
never seen mounting a part and then curing. very cool!
Excellent video. I'm always blown away by the level of detail you put into all of your designs and your persistence in making sure everything is just right. Oh, and great self portrait you printed at the end! 😉
Love your videos. How has it taken me this long to find your channel !!!
erstmal hallo unbekannter Weise, die Experimente mit dem Licorice Laces waren der Hammer, und auch mit einem FFM Drucker Resin zu drucken. weiter so, ich finde Du bist der innovativste Printing Kanal in CZcams.
1:30 Another great "Godver-!" moment
Quite an engineering marvel!... I have no idea what is going on, but it looks awesome!
Hi Jón, I love your work and wish you all the best!
Beautiful work ! Helpful thoughts and actions like yours is refreshing.
Crazy stuff ❤ this Extruder looks amazing ❤
For the heat cartridge connection you probably want to use more of the pins on that connector to avoid melting it.(ask me how i know ;p)
This quality connector can handle 6.5A/pin, it'll be fine ;)
D-sub connectors are typically rated for 5 amps, gold contacts even more. Thats enough for a rapido with its 115w. For reference, thats not far of from a whole prusa mini and more than half of a ender 3 and similar bed
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 had one melt out after s bad connection from corrosion
At 1:50 in you solved something that was driving me nute ... embedding things and pressing in shafts . I dontt know why i had never thought to insert while not fully cured .No more cracking gears THANKS!
Love this concept for soft filament feeder, awesome work, my only negative is the use of a Noctua fan, I recommend a good quality 4020 dual ball bearing fan or Maglev fan instead of the Noctua 4010.
always great to watch your development work :D
That is soooo cool!!!! Maybe after you make your first million you could please design a replacement all metal standardized extruder that can replace the extruders on the i-fast. It's a great printer but it needs a better high temp extruder.
Thank you! That idea crossed my mind. I like the printer, but really dislike the extruder. The toughest part would be to keep that switching mechanism between both extruders working in the same way.
This extruder seems like a great fit on a voron printer as well!. would be a interesting one i think
Very brilliant! Loved the whole process
Love the idea for holding the V6!
Impressive design
Great job
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂
Love your videos! Keep it up!
Really nice work!
SUBSCRIBED!!!
The calming music while building was really making me think something was gonna go very wrong at the end LOL. Great video man !
For the resin I'd say hit it with a coat of poly or acrylic so the resin doesn't keep getting hit with uv through window getting brittle over time.
Great video. That method to secure the round E3D block was genius. Also smart using transparent plastic. Mahalo for sharing! : )
I enjoyed this very much! Thank you for being a mad scientist!
Great job.
Yes, I also thought it looked like you as soon as I saw the model, then I wondered if it was actually modelled on you, but didn't take the time to investigate.
Man you are GOAT. !!!. Love this
an idea for fitting those: add a cam to hold the hotend instead of using screws, that should make switching the hotends way easier.
Something I‘d be really interested in is a diy hotend-extruder combo.
So a heatsink that’s part of or directly connected to the extruder and has provisions to mount the cooling fan and parts cooling fan to it, so its a single piece that can just fulfill the roles you usually would need a bunch of different pieces for.
In my mind it also allows to use a 40x40 fan for the parts cooling, so people can go all noctua and have a machine that doesn’t produce any sounds.
Absolutely fantastic!
Your video comes at the right time as i'm currently tinkering with a tronxy x5sa pro for which I planned some sort of tool-changing. And now I'm really looking forward in building one myself!
I would be interested in seeing some high-flow hotends on your extruder like the Nova, Rapido or the Magnum+
Cool. But colder!
You rock man !
Great engineering.
I really like the idea of using belts to drive the filament without distorting it. I think it could become the standard some day.
Nice and inspiring video, thx. i am playing with CAN-bus and Klipper for my toolhead. Very simple connection (4 pins) with small controller on the toolhead. More flexible in the long run but more complex for the first toolhead.
The quality of these videos is directly proportional to the epicness of the beard 🧔
A tool changer, tool changer! That is wild.
Great video. I like where you had to go through your parts archive, i call mine junk boxes.
I've been seeing these skulls from rogi studios everywhere, and I always thought they looked like you as well.
Good to see progress since mrrf, looks amazing in the clear, I did and entire Orbiterv2.0 and Dragon UHF setup in some smoke translucent that turned out cool too, I'm really liking the Dragon UHF, you should give that one a shot
Love your works! You should try to build a rolling screw extruder, it's really cool
This video is the definition of tight fit
wow, nice adoptation for cr10!
can't wait for the CR6-SE ;) (I'll even buy the working prototype!)
The groove mount on the dragonfly bmo can unscrew separately from the heatsink. You can just rigid mount it.
another very nice and well made video mate!!
Vez are you planning to test the pushing power of this on your LSD? With the TPU possibly?
@@BartoszSobierajski as much as I love this extruder, i dont think its a good fit on the Vzhead. The hextrudort is a very well capable tpu monster too :) I was able to print at 400mms with it
@@BartoszSobierajski ill try
@@Vez3D awesome. I'm building a vzbot slowly too, waiting for the LSD to be available.
Next version with smaller motor when? :) Love it!
the new revo hotends with the easy to replace hotend.
Someone give this brilliant man an SLS printer already!
I like what you are creating! i will try to help in some way.
Ohhhhhhyeeeaaaaah keep the signal 📶 going ✌️ 👍 💪 😎 🇺🇸
Great engineer.. must be a dutchy!... eehm is he?? neeeej godver... YUP he is! hahahaha
Learning a lot from you and love your content! gets me eager to also get into it.. fusion lesson 1 is in progress :) Keep up the good work!
Very elegant and also cool toolhead!
I think it would be cool if you have a mount for the Mosquito (magnum) hotend!
amazing
This is probably the first time a Noctua fan works with an existing color scheme :D BTW, the 40x10mm Noctuas don't blow a lot of air and it might be better to use a 40x20mm fan. I love this project! I hope you keep on tweaking it. Would be cool if some other CZcamsrs like Stefan or Vector3D could scientifically compare it to some other commercial extruders.
I'd love to have this on my bambulab x1 to print really soft tpu and wax filaments, haven't seen many upgrades to stock bambulabs
Oh wow, these tools for your extruder is looking amazing! Why don't you start production and sell these?
Genio assoluto!
nice John you didnt need to switch the stepper wires this time :)
When can I see more video's with your friend? He has such a nice beard dude! I want to frame him on my desk.
Fantastic !!! A big thanks for the video. What's the exact ref of the resin you use to make parts ??? Thanks
Next project? A dedicated beast for TPU maybe?
Se ve muy interesante el diseño. Me gustaria ver si puedes diseñar un extrusor basado en el modelo de voron y ver que tal funciona. Gran video!
Once you've finished working on extruders, try and make a better cooling duct with something like a 5015 fan or even try CPAP cooling. It'd be cool to see what you could make!
The weight of this makes it totally unrealistic but fun to watch even if it is!
Your CR-10 reminds me of my tevo tornado, since I eventually put a duetwifi and a direct drive extruder onto it. Obviously not the same direct drive extruder as you designed here mind you...
Godver... 🤣 haha love the little reminders that you are dutch haha😁
It does look like you ! 😁👍
Before doing the press-fit of parts, but the shatf and motor in the freeser and warm the gear a bit !
Would love that you jump in to the positron v3 project.... Even this extruder could give some interesting option
This is a really beautiful design Jon. Maybe it's a bit premature of me but have you thought of a bracket for a BL-Touch? There looks like a lot of handwork to make this instrument, what's your ideas for making this design at some sort of scale? Thank you for all your hard work and making these well produced and engaging videos.
As soon as I saw the first layer off the skull I started laughing! And yes! make it out of tpu! I have stopped making benchies and only make this skull out of new filament to test it :)
Great builds! Flexible filament extruders are a worthy place for your skills - I would certainly build/buy one that's stable. Perhaps not unlike SexyCyborg, there is a Creality partnership ahead to scale up your innovation.
I have an idea. Being that you made it swappable. Which means u need steper motors for each component you use..why not use just one motor and the same flex cable that's used in the flex extruder and nimble flex extruder. Saves on motor connections and checking motor steps, and weight! Just a thought.
Weer een goeie video! Een vraagje. Ik had een tijdje geleden gevraagd of je nog van plan was om de CAD bestand van de peristaltische pomp beschikbaar te maken. Ik ben em nog niet tegen gekomen op je website. Is dit nog iets wat je van plan bent om te doen? zo niet, zou je dan misschien kunnen vertellen wat de truc was om de flow constanter te krijgen. Ik ben nu zelf wat aan het experimenteren en het zal mijn leven wat makkelijker maken als je wat tips had.
Ik hoor het wel
Hi :) I bought the files for this gorgeous design! What settings and nozzle size do you recommend for printing using FDM? Will be using clear petg to kind of mimic the cool translucent look you have going :D
I'm gonna print this with tough resin!
Nice!
@@properprinting Is this the best extruder I could build/buy for reasonable money? I wanna make my old UM2 direct feed and am looking for the best and lightweight extruder
Would this be suitable? Or should I wait for the next revision?
(I would build the version without connector)
Thanks for posting and making your stuff accessible!!
what did you use to put the PSU and controller board under the CR10? do you have the files you used for the legs? Thank you! love your work
I currently have a Q5 delta at home, but I have a J 850 at work, so I would love to see a version of this that works with the effector plate of the Q5.
The clear resin is very elegant looking, maybe try UV resin sometime but my only concern would be the longevity due to heat changes over time
This looks so good! I want to build it, but the piezo sensor I have installed does not allow much modification beyond what is already done.
id love to see what you could do to a prusa mini
i feel like a good light weight direct drive on it would improve print quality alot
Now I think every extruder should be clear just to be able to help with trouble shooting.
It might be interesting to try one of the shortened hot ends that's moves the heat sink out of the line of the filament. I can think of the Bondtech LGX FF off the top of my head but I'm sure there are more.
old style replicator hotends. (alu bar that gets a heatsink bolted on it that the feedtube goes into
Great video!
What's that cute little press you have there? :D
Thanks! It's the Micro Press from Proxxon. I just found it on Amazon and created an affiliate link for it: geni.us/Ku69Lp
I can only imagine how a e3d Revo would go
I can't wait to put one of your extruders on my CR-10 Smart. I'm curious, how does the weight of the whole tooling package compare to something like the new Creality Sprite Extruder or the average BMG clone.
Awesome! I'm going to make a comparison video soon!
I always thought resin wasn't the way to go for things like this does it hold up better pretty well?
Fit this up with a MCU canbus adapter like an EBB42. Simplify all the wiring.
That's a cool approach!
Awesome to see the progress on the Proper Extruder. We are looking to change out our machines we use for our business to your design. Would you foresee any issues with the extruder printed in SLS nylon? As always, keep up the great work.
Thanks! Awesome that you want to use this with your machines! I don't have experience with SLS printed Nylon. The base part and front plate must be as stiff as possible and I don't know how flexible that Nylon is going to be.
@@properprinting It can be incredibly stiff. Parts from the Fuse1, for example, were too stiff for my application.
@@condorman6293 Those were likely CF nylon prints then. Regular PA12 nylon has a flexural modulus of about 6.6e8, PA 6 is even worse. PA66 performs probably the best but also at 1.37e9, doesn't come close to for example PLA, and is about on par with ABS. As a comparison, even PETG has a flexural modulus of about 1e9.
Although I do think printing it out of CF nylon might be interesting, as the stiffness and yield strength are much higher.
@@properprinting Regular Nylons (PA12, PA6) are probably not stiff enough (approximately the same or worse than PETG). However, CF Nylon blends might be viable as they are both stiffer and have a higher yield strength.
Not sure if you have experience with the markforged printers, but if you are able to do carbon fiber inlays with those, the stiffness goes up dramatically, and those results are way stiffer than PLA, yet unbreakable by hand for most parts.
@@tHaH4x0r They were not. They were PA12 and PA11.
What's that mini arbor press you used for press fitting the bearings? Could do with one of those!
It's the Micro Press from Proxxon. I just found it on Amazon and created an affiliate link for it: geni.us/Ku69Lp
next challenge shoud to be reduce weight overall as much as possible., using smaller motor as well
is nobody gonna talk about the gummy bear song in the background?
Geweldig ontwerp!
Compleet andere vraag heb jij geen bed leveling probleem met de S1 Pro?
Bedankt! Nee, geen problemen mee. Ik vond het wel wat raar werken, maar uiteindelijk werkt het prima.
@@properprinting bij mij werkt hij goed totdat ik te ver in de rechter hoek print dan zit de nozzle in eens te laag waardoor ik een hele lelijke eerste laag krijg. Hoopte dat jij misschien een oplossing had gevonden