Millinery Shorts: How to Block a Hat With Buckram | vintage millinery technique
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- čas přidán 6. 08. 2024
- If you've enjoyed this video please like & subscribe 👍🔔, this really helps me grow and reach a larger audience ❤️ I post new videos or do a live stream from my studio every week ✨✨✨
In this video I’m demonstrating how I block with buckram. This is my favourite hat base material to work with - it’s easy to shape with steam and dries stiff enough to hold a good shape whilst remaining lightweight. This is my preferred method, there is no right or wrong way - just whatever works for you.
→ Follow me ←
Instagram: @byilonamillinery
Website: www.byilona.co.uk
→ Tools & Materials ←
Block with stand (mine is a DIY plaster block with a jar as a stand)
Tape measure
Buckram (medium weight)
Pencil
Rulers (I'm using a set square)
Kitchen scissors (for buckram)
Cling film
Steamer (or a clothes iron with a steam setting)
Blocking pins (black steel, 26 x 0,85mm)
Thimbles (metal)
Domet (fusible)
Fabric scissors (for domet only)
→ Suggested Suppliers ←
I like to shop around between all of these to see who has the best prices:
Parkin Fabrics
Macculloch & Wallis
William Gee
0:00 Blocking with Buckram
0:28 Tools & Materials
0:36 Measure the Block
1:00 Measure & Cut the Buckram
1:24 Prep the Block
2:19 Steam
2:30 Pin on the Straight Grain
5:51 Steam & Pin the Diagonals
8:52 Fuse Domet
#buckram #millinery #hatmaking - Jak na to + styl
If you've enjoyed this video please like & subscribe 👍🔔, this really helps me grow and reach a larger audience ❤️ I post new videos or do a live stream from my studio every week ✨✨✨
Nobody’s millinery videos can even touch yours. I am costuming poupeès of the 1850s-70s. Your techniques are broad and timeless. Thank you!
I really like your methods I enjoy watching you design your products thank you so much❤
Hello Judy, Thank you so much! I am very glad you like watching my process! 😊
You look great in your hats and you find the right fabrics and trimmings for them. I'm impressed with how your niche trade is your passion.
Greeting from peru. Excellent video
Thank you, the most useful videos on hats!
Good job
Lovely exactly the way we were taught.
You are perfect 💛💛
Aww, thank you ❤️
Pls Ilona kindly show me where which shop I can go to buy this material buckram.
I would love to know how to make that block
Hello, thanks for your great educative videos! I’m just starting out and have been taught to spray the buckram with water but it makes such a gluey mess. Is it best to steam to avoid this? I guess it’s personal preference?
Hi Rochelle! I'm so glad you are enjoying my videos 😊 yes, it is just personal preference. I prefer to just use steam precisely because spraying with water creates a gluey mess. I've always found that steaming was enough to shape the buckram, and it should dry faster too.
@@ByIlonaMillinery thanks so much for your reply. I’m definitely going to try steaming next time. Have a lovely weekend 😊
Hello dear, I love your channel 😊and I have a newbie question… instead of a square fabric why not cut it in circle? Can everyone wear a hat 👒? My late grandmother was a professional hat maker in Quebec City in the early 1900 … when we are kids we don’t realize how much of a treasure our grand parents can be lol I regret not questioned her about hats 😢 and here you are 😊 lol thank you so much for sharing your passion 😊
Nyce
👏🏾
llona have you ever made a hat or fascinator with pellon
Where can I go get buckram to uy?
Hello, Ilona! Thank you for the video! I appreciate if you can tell me do you use the glue between domet and the garment (tweed), or you attach the garment only by stitching ? Thanks in progress!
Hello Kristina! The domet I buy comes pre-glued from the manufacturers. If you can't find a "fusible" domet (fusible means pre-glued) then you can use something called "bond-a-web" which is an iron on glue. Sometimes it's used to hem curtains invisibly. I noticed from your name you might be Russian? If it's easier for you to comment in Russian, please do so! I can reply to you in Russian also 😊
@@ByIlonaMillinery thank you ❤️ Илона, ещё раз спасибо за качественный контент, очень интересно💃. Я хотела поинтересоваться, где вы изучали millinery и у какого мастера? Может это были курсы/ академия искусств либо самостоятельное обучение? Буду признательна если поделитесь этой информацией. Если удобней писать в личные сбщ, а не комментарии - дайте пожалуйста знать 🙃 Have a nice day
Я очень рада что вам интересно! У меня есть список курсов которые я брала на моём сайте: www.byilona.co.uk/about/ И там же есть список книжек которые я рекомендую. У меня в планах сделать видео про книжки в следующим году. Больше всего мне интересно всё пробовать самостоятельно. Иногда какая-то техника или идея не срабатывает, в таком случаи я не расстраиваюсь и просто пробую снова после перерыва!
Я думаю что проще писать в личные сбщ на instagram - по сколько я могу пропустить комментарии.
@@ByIlonaMillinery спасибо большое за информацию! Я желаю вам успехов во всех экспериментах и начинаниях ❤️ и, конечно, буду ждать новые видео 🤓🤠
How you keep the hat on?
can you show us how to make DIY plaster block?
Of course! I can probably make this video for around July/August.
I already have a video about "DIY hat block using expanding foam" if you are interested in that.
This looks complicated as heck! How are you doing anything with those thimbles on? I'm hooked, beautiful lady.
Hello! Thimbles take practice (and don't tell anyone, but I don't always wear them 😅) I am so glad you've found my videos 😊 Best of luck on your millinery journey ❤️
Where can I buy Bukcram? Could you tell me the site where I can buy it?
What is a water soluble “demette”? It sounds like perhaps a type of glue for fusing fabric to buckram? Please advise. Also, have you done a video on making a hat on buckram covered with silk-rayon velvet? Tricky? Thanks.
Hello, the "domet" is not water soluble - it can be "fusible". Fusible means that it can be stuck to another fabric or material. Domet fabric has a soft fleece like texture which softens the rough surface of the buckram. Domet that is not fusible can be sewn on to the blocked buckram using a needle and thread.
I have got this video in which I touch on covering a buckram shape in silk velvet: czcams.com/video/iAMYlGx7GSM/video.html
@@ByIlonaMillinery llona is a genius! Such talent and generous in sharing her knowledge! I'm in heaven! Leah Allen
@@saltlifegull4091 Hello Leah! Thank you so much ❤️ I hope you've subscribed! I've got new videos coming every Sunday 😀
Hi, can the blocking be done with a "regular" iron?
Hello! You might find this video helpful in deciding on what equipment to use for blocking: czcams.com/video/wtyPcB_Vk_M/video.html
Am i right in thinkin its bot necessary to use a stiffer after its blocked as the buckram is fusible? Also how long would u generally leave it on the block before removing?
Hi Gail! Thank you for your question. Buckram is a stiffened cotton canvas material. It comes already stiffened - meaning that you do not need to stiffen it again after blocking, unless you deliberately want a firmer hat. "Fusible Buckram" is another type of buckram "fusible" means that the stiffened buckram has had a layer of bond-a-web applied. "Bond-a-web" is a type of glue that melts when heat is applied from an iron so that it can "fuse" or glue itself to another material.
As for how long to leave on the block, it will depend on how wet your buckram was when blocked, and how warm your ambient environment is while it dries. 24 hours is a safe bet. You can try the "cheek test". To test if a material is dry, put your cheek to it. If it feels cold, it is still damp. If it feels room temperature it is dry.
Hope all this helps! 😊
Hi, can you explain the material you have used to prevent the buckram from showing through? Ive not heard of this before - demet?? Not sure how to spell it. Thanks. Very helpful videos :-)
Hi Tracey, Yes of course! It's spelt "Domet". It's a nice soft thin-ish fabric with a fleece-like texture. You can find it "fusible" or "non-fusible" the former will stick to the buckram, and the latter you would have to stitch down. I am planning a few short videos soon on these various fabrics and materials associated with millinery during which I will give more detailed explanations. 😊
@@ByIlonaMillinery Great, thanks for your reply, looking forward to seeing more videos!
@@ByIlonaMillinery Can Fabric Fusion sold in fabric stores do the same thing? Oops, it's not fleece tho...it just holds fabric together.
Great work! What type of buckram is it? I have seen light millinery buckram without termoadhesive, thermo adhestive both sides..and other types. What is the thickness for this buckram?
It is probably thermoadhesive as you are using hot air.
Thanks x
Hi, Ilona! Could you please let me know, which type of medium-weight Buckram do you use for this project: "no Adhesive" or "Adhesive on 2 sides"? Thank you in advance!
No adhesive. I think the adhesive is just bond-a-web fused to one side of the buckram - and it's unnecessary. 😊
@@ByIlonaMillinery thank you very much for your reply, dear Ilona!🤗❤
You could have wet it a bit before steaming.
Never worked with buckram before and I would like to make a half hat fascinator and I'm not finding a base one. Can I make the base out of this? Can you put the buckram in water and let it sit to get hard?
Hi there! You cannot put buckram in water - the stiffener that makes it hold it's shape will dissolve. This is precisely why I use steam to shape it rather than water from a spray bottle.
Pls drop the link to purchase your steamer
Hi Bernice, the brand I use is "Bokeh". It's currently unavailable on Amazon, but if you look around I'm sure you can find something similar.
Hey just a question i have always wanted to ask, but keep forgetting. WHat did they use in the days before cling film?
Hi Roxann, I have always wondered the same thing. Most of the vintage books I have don't mention anything about protecting the blocks, but I will double check later and get back to you on that. I have heard that they may have used tin foil. We also have to consider that in the case of blocking felt, quite often it wasn't stiffened in the same way as today. So there wasn't as much need to use clingfilm to prevent stikiness.
@@ByIlonaMillinery i wonder if they used a very fine cotton cloth that is slightly damp, or lightly waxed or oiled or something. Or maybe , which is more likely, they used nothing. Esp as they used Espartrie, as products we use today they didnt have. Modern buckrum and cinamay needs cling film, maybe espartrie didnt, and steaming a felt form over a block with cloth pinned over it would work just as well. We do it to protect the block...maybe due to the blocks being more prolific back then and based on fashion that changed quickly, they didnt feel the need to "protect" the block that we do now and thats why they were made of hard wood. just suggestions
So, with buckram you only use single layer unlike sinamay?
Secondly, what material is your hat block made of?
From South Africa.
Hello, with the buckram it all depends on the buckram. It's up to you to experiment and decide how firm you want your hat to be. If you think 1 layer is enough stop there. If you've done 1 layer and feel that it needs more, add more. I personally follow the same process when using sinamay.
My hat block in this video is made out of plaster. I am currently working on a video about how to make your own, which is due out shortly.
@@ByIlonaMillinery
Will wait for the video, thanks
0:09
What is domet ? Or demet? I cant translate it, im from spain 😅
Hello! The fabric is called "Domet" it is a soft covering that smooths the rough buckram. In America it's sometimes called "ice wool wadding". Any soft fabric will work just the same. I hope this helps! www.parkinfabrics.co.uk/products/domet-woven-fusible?variant=42691116892383
I'm sorry, but I'm going nuts
🙄 I have tried everywhere to find the cord that is used for hat blocking. Do you have any idea where I could get some from and what exactly it is called? I have tried everywhere, but no joy. I am about ready to jump out of the window. Actually, that is a bit over dramatic as I live in a bungalow, so if I were to jump out of said window I would land in 2 seconds in a colourful fluffy bush. However, I feel my need to be over dramatic is absolutely justified given my hours spent trying to find the stuff.
Anyway, I'm in no danger but think of the poor bush 😂😂😂
I just use paracord, you can buy rolls of it on Amazon. Just tie a loop knot in the end and you are good to go.
@ByIlonaMillinery Bless you for taking the time to advise. I should tell you that I have been a subscriber for a long time. I haven't simply enjoyed your content, I have been inspired by you to try my hand at milinary. I do other crafts professionally, but I didn't have the confidence to try my hand at hat making. Watching your videos with such clear instructions changed all that. I am also impressed that you have the humility to admit when you've made a mistake. Anyone who works in craft knows that mistakes are part of the process. They can prove very instructive in themselves. I always tell people who are setting out to learn a craft that they should "prepare to be rubbish." They sort of look puzzled until I go on to explain that people have a terrible fear of being rubbish. Accepting that this is a natural part of the learning process kicks that fear to the kerb. Many people teaching on CZcams have perhaps studied at college, and some have been doing the craft for decades. Sadly, some edit out all mistakes. I have even caught sight of a smidge of Photoshop...I don't feel that to be very helpful.
I once knew a man (OK, I was married to him. I was just too embarrassed to mention it 🤣) He had not studied or ever done any photography, but his business was to take him to Australia, so he went out and bought £1,000 of camera equipment. When the photographs didn't turn out like something out of National Geographic, he never picked up a camera again. Sheesh. 🤦♀️
Anyway, thank you for being so inspiring and helpful. I should also thank you for saving the beautiful bush outside my window from being squished as I threw myself in.
Paracord, it is then 🙂
Oh not a wooden block.