What Instagram can't teach you about breaking a plateau
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- čas přidán 21. 05. 2024
- Breaking through a plateau in climbing is hard, and sometimes social media doesn't help.
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My video on getting from surgery to E10 in 4 months: • Surgery to E10: My app... - Sport
Dave, I recently started climbing and I have to say that your perspective on climbing and training is a huge inspiration for me. I recently did a complete 180 on my diet, removing excessive added sugar and ultra processed foods to support climbing and am constantly looking to you and your channel for information on how to improve my climbing. Thank you for all you provide to new climbers like myself and climbing as a sport generally.
@@jp9672 you should reread the title of the video but replace instagram with CZcams and reevaluate your comments lmao
Great video! Just on 9:47 As someone in a similar position not travelling abroad and living relatively low-carbon life (veggie-ish hippy), my thoughts on this have shifted over the years. I do think those of us eco-minded (most climbers tbf) tend to really overburden ourselves on this topic in an often unhealthy manner and I see real parallels with catastrophic "all or nothing" thinking seen in conditions like OCD or depression, or religious shame. Us viewing a single "sin" or "lapse" like a flight as a sizeable contribution to the downfall of the world in the face of corporate profiteering off the planet, indifference by the majority in society, or wilful destruction by private individuals - I don't think its too healthy for us. There has to be perspective - all those car trips out to remote crags is extra carbon....but the net benefit to you (and so many others in the community who you benefit Dave) "offsets" this so this should not be a worry. A video of this length and viewcount would probably equate to an hour's flying in carbon but again, I think be mindful but don't obsess is the best approach. To take this to the "logical" conclusion, as humans the only way we can fully care for the planet enough is to off ourselves which is of course a terrible end-result - instead I think the "fair" approach is to consider how humans have very complex needs which can run counter to a carbon-free life - its not hubris to say we are different to other animals on the planet - we need more than just basic food and shelter say a snake might, hence why we have hobbies like climbing! I am looking to travel abroad (first time in 15yrs+) but I've now made peace with this. Whilst by no means a great solution, carbon offsetting and contributing significantly to environmental charities is at least a "better than nothing" way to address some of the damage. Even with my one flight (which won't be a regular occurrence) I will still have a much smaller annual footprint than the average person (especially considering the last 15 years for me) so if they can sleep well at night, I should at least not over ruminate.
Carbon dioxide is good for earth. It means more plants and trees can grow. Humans are not causing Earth to heat up, the earth heating up is causing carbon dioxide to be released from stores in water. Anthropogenic climate change is a hoax to control humans. The sea levels haven’t risen an inch where I have lived for the last 38 years. Just live your you lives free from the control of the oppressors, as much as is possible. Bless
Dave eats tons of meat, lives in a single family home and drives a car. He does not care about climate change.
Over time I changed my mind in this regard. When I started climbing and got involved in the community, I felt like there is strong concern about environmental topics, but after some years and a lot of climbers I met I now feel they are flighing just as much (or even more) as regular non-climbing joes.
One thing I learned in the past few months is how personal plateaus actually are. I was already kinda stuck at 6a and then had a rough winter, mental health-wise, that led me to not climb for like two months. When I got back, I felt weak and actually found myself afraid of falling. It took a while to allow myself to take a few steps back and realise I wasn't the same climber, and working the confidence back up. In outdoor leading, going back to easy slabs really helped with getting re-acquainted with the rock. With indoor bouldering, I noticed I wasn't focusing on my feet enough, and it's been helping to not walk away from climbs after doing them, but actually repeat and refine them. This actually had a huge impact in all my climbing. Indoor leading also helped with the fear of falling, especially building trust with my belayer, and pushing beyond discomfort.
These are just a few tips I picked up from you and others, that I hope inspire someone else to push forward
Thank you Mcleod Senpai, this is all i ever wanted and will cherish forever
stunning video as always dave! the best.
Your videos are always so unsell and well thought! And the places you shows are wonderful. Thanks for the time you put in them!
Your videos are genuinely inspiring in very practical ways. I just wanted to say thank you
Dave, thanks for such a genuine video. I would love to have experienced the mountains like you did your first year. Again, thanks, helps a lot!
great video as always
Brilliant stuff Dave
Very valuable insights, thank you!
Dave thank you!
It is not hyperbole to say that that, is by far the best video you’ve made, apropos engendering a realistic perspective on convalescence and the complexities surrounding the physiology of healing whilst continuing to intentionally optimize one’s training.
I’ve powered through a microdiscectomy, an extensor tendon surgically repaired with a titanium pin in my index finger, due to a full laceration and spent 4 months in a splint; I’ve fallen off a longline and torn two collateral ligaments in the same hand the following year and spent 5 months in a splint… endless shoulder niggles, medial and lateral tendonosis that took 11 months to heal, two A2 pulleys, 6 DIP joints, 2 PIP, a broken ankle…
I’m 42 and I’ve never been stronger overall. My snap isn’t quite what it was but following your advice over the last 4 years of my life, as I’ve learnt to climb, has been pivotal, crucial, fundamental and instrumental in the many small peaks I’ve experienced, amongst the reciprocal troughs😊. You inspire me to trust the process of just being - but with hope and focus! I shall have to take my daughter on a holiday to SCOTLAND
Beautiful mountain range you got there! great video
I want to try climbing after seeing your channel. Thank you ❤
Digging the Catalyst training videos Dave! Awesome resource. Glad you’ve recovered well
Thanks for the great, insightful video.
I'm happy sharing my imperfections on youtube and instagram, i always provide commentary on the climbs, what i did well and what i need to do better.
For my age and experience i'm exceeding my expectations so thats all that counts. Limit is limit whether its V5 or V17!
People would do well to rememeber that and only judge themselves against themselves and not comparing progress or strength to others.
Competiton is great but life is you vs you at its very core so getting hung up on 'others' is so damaging.
Love your videos Dave!! always helpful and well-shot. Have you tried Bosi's free at last?
Absolutely love all your content, thanks for continuing to put such great stuff out.
Also, amazing to finally hear someone else say about not flying. I similarly avoid it…… I cannot understand how people don’t feel like massive hypocrites when complaining about poor snow in the alps after flying there to go skiing. 8 people in a VW transporter is a fraction of the carbon, yet people still regard me like I’m mad for doing it. Yes it’s less convenient, but yes I want my kids to be able to ski in another 20 years.
5:52 CUTE KOT
If you care about the issue of CC, it’s worth doing what you can. This is a matter of personal ethics and Dave is spot on: make a life in the mountains near great climbing and you don’t need to fly. Dave and other climbers like Aiden do a great job of advocating for this by example, and Dave’s IG and YT accounts show how rewarding this approach can be. It’s inspired me to do the same.
I've been climbing for 2.5 years and I have plateaued at a 6a grade. It's quite frustrating. One of my biggest obstacles is simply fear of falling - I struggle to take more technical maneuvers purely out of fear of falling when ascending to a higher clip. It's a mind-game I need to get over.
Yeah, massive problem for so many climbers and it was a really tough one for me to crack in 1996. I devoted a whole section in my book to overcoming fear of falling.
Take a lot of practice falls, firstly indoor (ideal is a good easy slightly overhang route) and top rope, then leading below and above the quickdraw, slowly increasing the fall. Practice a lot until you can let go at any point without stopping to think about the fall. Build trust with your belayer. Practice vertical routes too.
When you are confident indoors try transitioning outdoors. It's here that for me starts the difficult process of building enough experience to not having fear, but at the same time to understand when you can easily fall and when is best to not to. Good luck!
That chapter in your book really helped me get through it! I highly recommend it
Lots of people suggest practice falls and there’s probably a lot to be said for practice falls it getting over fear of falling.
But in my mind one actual real fall either from getting too pumped or a foot popping is worth 100 practice falls in terms of getting over your fear.
Just go for it, take a few whippers and you’ll be all good.
@@climbermacleod That chapter in your book saved me and openend so many doors in climbing for me, I will be eternally grateful for that. Without this chapter I would not have believed that fall training can solve my problem because I already did it before, but not long and consistently enough.
I would say in hindsight, it took me around 6 or more month, 2 sessions per week, 1 hour falling training per session to solve this issue for me. Now, even after long breaks of climbing I can start falling after a few (or just one) session if I climb with trustet partners I have falling experience with.
Hi dave i love your videos and they have helped me these past few years. I was wonderign if you could do a video on solo outdoor bouldering
Thanks. Anything specific about solo outdoor bouldering? Why I enjoy it etc?
I am in the middle of recovery and rehab from an ankle break off a slab at the local gym. One thing I plan to do very soon is begin running and shadow boxing. I believe this will increase confidence in my athleticism of which I lack currently now. I lack confidence doing everyday tasks, but yet I can still climb. Flexibility and bounciness is what I need back.
Nice to hear the comment on flying. I haven't flown for a decade and find it horrific how normal people think it is, even with what is publicly known about climate change
Yeah, while some trips might only be doable by flying, (ie cross Continental trips) a lot of them could be replaced by train if certain countries (cough US cough) had properly built high speed rail.
Was great seeing you on Louie's channel recently! Would love to see you take take him bouldering in Scotland sometime
Yeah no
I really wanna go climbing in scotland at some point.
Another wonderful video, thank you! It would be interesting to hear about your experience breaking through the "lower" grades (V5, sport 7a) earlier on in your apprenticeship. Additionally, I am always curious how professional climbers experience the range in difficulty from 7a to their max. How much harder does an 8a sport route feel than 7c+, 7a, 6a, with so many grades in between? As a 6c+, V5 climber flashing a grade below each it is hard to imagine having so many grades "below" you.
I am just finishing writing a book about this.
Amazing!
would you be willing to share if you do any mobility or stretching? or other off the wall training you do to maintain the physical demand on shoulders and to prevent injury...asking for a friend :P
Had ankle surgery 6 days ago so this makes me feel hopeful 👍
Out of interest, how long was it until you were happily taking falls onto pads?
I have not happily fallen onto pads for fifteen years.
@@climbermacleod Fair response 😅
Still waiting for AG1 video :D
Back to editing that this evening.
First! Love your vids Dave! Great way to start the day!
Meanwhile I'm four months out from surgery and climbing 4c, down from 6b, after being forced to go back to work on crutches (combined with some gentle one legged climbing just to keep up some strength) gave me trigger finger in both hands and Achilles tendonitis in my uninjured foot. I suppose bodies are not all equal!
Absolutely, all bodies are not equal - the thing that primarily separates them is training. The stronger and fitter your body is at all times through life, the more it is able to cope with the significant shocks of things like injuries and surgeries.
nice
Did you stole the eggs ? the price was 2 for 1/2 dozen and you took a dozen :D
Tell me the kids named the cat without telling me the kids named the cat.
Maybe folks who run rescue centres express their inner kid this way. He wears it well, though.
Thanks for this Dave. I had a bad ankle break climbing last August and has really knocked my confidence in lead climbing due to the fear of breaking something else. It's been a very slow process.
how about the reality of climbing gym grading and outside bouldering grading? It's ridiculous and gives false confidence for membership fees. Standardize the system already.
You can't.
@@climbermacleod sure you can. Make all gyms follow the color code system, seeing all the holds really are pinches, and make outside v grades. Not hard. Makes more sense anyways.
I wouldn't worry about emmisions when you have the likes of China, Brazil and India amongst the biggest contributors. None of them are going to change their way of living.
You should go out and enjoy a trip somewhere, that flight will be goint to its destination with you on it or not, may as well benefit from it.
Although i kinda agree with your conclusion, i disagree with your reasoning. Those countries indeed contribute a lot to climbing change, but if you account for the number of people living there, the problem is still people living in the west, emitting a lot more co2 per person. I agree though that it is more sensible to push for political change rather then constrain every aspect of your personal life for a solution to climate change.
Adding to the warming is adding to the warming, regardless of who else is doing it.
I don't begin an ethical decision making process with 'what would the Chinese do?'.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, is it really worth missing out on adventures and experiences when those ethical decisions aren't actually going to make a difference on the grand scale of things.
@@astonio7399 But that's just it: by posting on social media about how rewarding local climbing is, Dave has an outsized influence on other climbers that goes beyond just his own carbon reductions. Pushing for change and inspiring others to change their habits does make a difference. Sure, it's not the only strategy, but don't discount it.