As a retired HVAC contractor, I always thought those blast gates needed improvements. Your videos helped me with my sliding table saw, and now this video will help me with my dust collection system. Thank you
Hi Steve. Well said and done. Yes gates have always leaked more than I want to deal with. So I built my own. I have 24 5" gates. And listening to you and others about manufacture gates; so I watched what you said. Good stuff Steve. So I decided to stop from the beginning and did many things like you did too. Also, mine are all automatic gates; using air pressure to open and close the gates, whenever any machine goes on or off. So watching is what I have fought like you.. Thanks kind Sir for show using what you have done. Take care friend.
I’ve got all 6” gates, all but 2 nordfab. I have access to all but 1 easily, so I have the thumb screw tight on all gates but the active one. But this is on an Oneida Super Gorilla, not sure it has the same suction as the Felder unit. Learning to put the thumbscrew on the downstream side so when tight it closes the gate was huge for me.
That is the way I used my system as well except for the 3 gates that were too high to reach the thumbscrews. Even with the thumbscrew tight, I would get that bad tuning fork tone on 2 gates. Steve
Thanks Steve! I haven't noticed mine wobbbling or rattling yet, but I know I'll be back when they do (thankfully my thumbscrews are all accessible, but they are still annoying)
I am working on fixing the inaccessible problem as 3 gates are between 8 and 9-1/2 feet above the floor. Tired of using sticks and reach rods on these. Steve
@@extremewoodworker I am currently redoing my ducting so that I can integrate a Grit system including automatically controlled gates on most of my system. Any auto gate will be installed higher up in the ducting than the current approx. chest level that I have them.
great improvement on the gates. As someone that also struggles with space I have my dust collection go outside the building into a cyclone, then returned into the shop and through a filter tucked high near the ceiling. Its not the most efficient for heat but it clears up a fair bit of space. In the summer the filter is bypassed and cyclone just blows outside. Not sure if your set up allows for this but an idea. Thanks!
Thanks. The Felder isn't really set up to do what you describe. If I had to do it over again, my dust collector would be in a room by itself accessible from the outside for bin emptying with some remote monitoring for fill status. I would return air to the shop since I have conditioned space. I would also put a large air compressor and the phase converter in their own enclosures. If I only had that foresight 33 years ago (LOL). Steve
@@extremewoodworker Great video...thanks! I put my RL 160 and big air compressor/dryer/etc. in a separate room with a return as you mention but my 30 HP Phase Perfect is in the shop where my 400 amp service comes in. As I was watching your video, I was thinking about some way to wire a flashing red light (or some other type of alarm) inside the shop so I would know when I had a restriction...will have to investigate this further.
Hey there man.. This was a very informative video my bro. I'm relatively new to the workshop scene. I'm about to upgrade my table saw in the next month or so and this gave me some food for thought. I cannot for the life of me get a grip of dust collection atm. I'm struggling and I've developed eye issues and nose issues from cutting sheet good in my small shop. There's dust constantly in the air but it's everywhere tbh. I know I need to sort this out before I go any further. My eyes are really sore now. I need to get to grips with this mess man. Is there a video u know of that could help me build a dust collection system that could maybe minimise the dust issues I'm having? I work out of a one car garage. I have a table saw, planer thicknesser, bench drill, sanders galore, I also use a wet/dry grinder. This issue with my eyes really began around the time I began cutting sheet goods on my crappy table saw. I really enjoyed ur video man. It brought up some real issues and u seemed to have found some brilliant solutions along with it. Brilliant stuff my friend. I just sub'd to ur channel too btw. Well truth is I only found ur channel a few days ago and sub'd this morning. Apologies for the longwinded comment as well ... Keep up the great work and I love that big as heck panel saw u have in ur shop . It's a proper beast. How big is the blade din that bad boy??
Thank you for the kind words. The best resource I have found for dust collection is Bill Pentz. He has a boatload of excellent information on his website and I suggest starting at his beginners corner: billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/beginnnerscorner.php One thing to note, the best dust collector in the world cannot overcome a poor intake at the source. When looking at saws, look for shrouds around the blade and overhead guards with dust collection ports as well. Even at that, it will still not be perfect. You need to move a lot of air to pick up sawdust generated by a blade tip moving at over 100 mph. Also, minimize the length of flexible hoses. The Martin saw will take up to a 400mm (16") blade but the largest I have is a 356mm (14").
Use rocking blast gates and all the problems go away, no rattling, no leaks (not that they matter too much if at all) and they can't jam. The major issue with the metal gates is they never fully clear the duct, some of the blade is always in the duct. czcams.com/video/oj9vlD4gU78/video.html&ab_channel=JonathanKatz-Moses. Mr Moses is late to the rocking gate as they have been around for at least 10 years that I know of.
Thanks. I like the idea of these blast gates but cost to connect to the Nordfab quick fit system would high and I already had the standard blast gates on hand. With 2 angled flange quick fit adapters per gate, it would cost me between $140 and $170 for each gate just for adapters. If I did not have the Nordfab, I could easily see going that route. I have never experienced a jam on the Nordfab gates and hopefully my modifications will not alter that track record. I did alter one of my 5" gates by hammering the dimples out to get the gate out of the flow stream but this has some downsides as well. Steve
As a retired HVAC contractor, I always thought those blast gates needed improvements. Your videos helped me with my sliding table saw, and now this video will help me with my dust collection system. Thank you
Thank you Robert. Glad it has been of some help. Steve
Hi Steve. Well said and done. Yes gates have always leaked more than I want to deal with. So I built my own. I have 24 5" gates. And listening to you and others about manufacture gates; so I watched what you said. Good stuff Steve.
So I decided to stop from the beginning and did many things like you did too. Also, mine are all automatic gates; using air pressure to open and close the gates, whenever any machine goes on or off. So watching is what I have fought like you..
Thanks kind Sir for show using what you have done. Take care friend.
Thanks Pat. I am not going full auto but am upgrading 3 gates that are way up in the air. Steve
Great video.
Thanks! Steve
very informative
I’ve got all 6” gates, all but 2 nordfab. I have access to all but 1 easily, so I have the thumb screw tight on all gates but the active one. But this is on an Oneida Super Gorilla, not sure it has the same suction as the Felder unit. Learning to put the thumbscrew on the downstream side so when tight it closes the gate was huge for me.
That is the way I used my system as well except for the 3 gates that were too high to reach the thumbscrews. Even with the thumbscrew tight, I would get that bad tuning fork tone on 2 gates. Steve
Thanks Steve! I haven't noticed mine wobbbling or rattling yet, but I know I'll be back when they do (thankfully my thumbscrews are all accessible, but they are still annoying)
I am working on fixing the inaccessible problem as 3 gates are between 8 and 9-1/2 feet above the floor. Tired of using sticks and reach rods on these. Steve
@@extremewoodworker I am currently redoing my ducting so that I can integrate a Grit system including automatically controlled gates on most of my system. Any auto gate will be installed higher up in the ducting than the current approx. chest level that I have them.
great improvement on the gates. As someone that also struggles with space I have my dust collection go outside the building into a cyclone, then returned into the shop and through a filter tucked high near the ceiling. Its not the most efficient for heat but it clears up a fair bit of space. In the summer the filter is bypassed and cyclone just blows outside. Not sure if your set up allows for this but an idea. Thanks!
Thanks. The Felder isn't really set up to do what you describe. If I had to do it over again, my dust collector would be in a room by itself accessible from the outside for bin emptying with some remote monitoring for fill status. I would return air to the shop since I have conditioned space. I would also put a large air compressor and the phase converter in their own enclosures. If I only had that foresight 33 years ago (LOL). Steve
@@extremewoodworker Great video...thanks! I put my RL 160 and big air compressor/dryer/etc. in a separate room with a return as you mention but my 30 HP Phase Perfect is in the shop where my 400 amp service comes in. As I was watching your video, I was thinking about some way to wire a flashing red light (or some other type of alarm) inside the shop so I would know when I had a restriction...will have to investigate this further.
Hey there man.. This was a very informative video my bro. I'm relatively new to the workshop scene. I'm about to upgrade my table saw in the next month or so and this gave me some food for thought. I cannot for the life of me get a grip of dust collection atm.
I'm struggling and I've developed eye issues and nose issues from cutting sheet good in my small shop. There's dust constantly in the air but it's everywhere tbh.
I know I need to sort this out before I go any further. My eyes are really sore now.
I need to get to grips with this mess man. Is there a video u know of that could help me build a dust collection system that could maybe minimise the dust issues I'm having? I work out of a one car garage. I have a table saw, planer thicknesser, bench drill, sanders galore, I also use a wet/dry grinder. This issue with my eyes really began around the time I began cutting sheet goods on my crappy table saw.
I really enjoyed ur video man. It brought up some real issues and u seemed to have found some brilliant solutions along with it. Brilliant stuff my friend.
I just sub'd to ur channel too btw. Well truth is I only found ur channel a few days ago and sub'd this morning. Apologies for the longwinded comment as well ... Keep up the great work and I love that big as heck panel saw u have in ur shop . It's a proper beast. How big is the blade din that bad boy??
Thank you for the kind words. The best resource I have found for dust collection is Bill Pentz. He has a boatload of excellent information on his website and I suggest starting at his beginners corner: billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/beginnnerscorner.php
One thing to note, the best dust collector in the world cannot overcome a poor intake at the source. When looking at saws, look for shrouds around the blade and overhead guards with dust collection ports as well. Even at that, it will still not be perfect. You need to move a lot of air to pick up sawdust generated by a blade tip moving at over 100 mph. Also, minimize the length of flexible hoses.
The Martin saw will take up to a 400mm (16") blade but the largest I have is a 356mm (14").
that dust collector makes a lot of noise
Use rocking blast gates and all the problems go away, no rattling, no leaks (not that they matter too much if at all) and they can't jam. The major issue with the metal gates is they never fully clear the duct, some of the blade is always in the duct. czcams.com/video/oj9vlD4gU78/video.html&ab_channel=JonathanKatz-Moses. Mr Moses is late to the rocking gate as they have been around for at least 10 years that I know of.
Thanks. I like the idea of these blast gates but cost to connect to the Nordfab quick fit system would high and I already had the standard blast gates on hand. With 2 angled flange quick fit adapters per gate, it would cost me between $140 and $170 for each gate just for adapters. If I did not have the Nordfab, I could easily see going that route. I have never experienced a jam on the Nordfab gates and hopefully my modifications will not alter that track record.
I did alter one of my 5" gates by hammering the dimples out to get the gate out of the flow stream but this has some downsides as well. Steve