How to Connect and Properly Align Festool Guide Rails
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- In this video, I demonstrate How to Connect and Properly Align Festool Guide Rails. While this process is straightforward, getting the rails aligned perfectly needs to be done with care and attention to detail.
Affiliate links to the tools I own and use:
DISCLAIMER - As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Festool 495315 MFT/3 Multifunction Table - amzn.to/2IqPWzT
Festool TS 75 EQ Plunge Cut Circular Saw with 75-Inch Track amzn.to/2KgNkG2
Festool 204083 CT Cyclone Dust Separator - amzn.to/3dsvNVx
Festool 564261 CXS Li Compact Drill Driver Plus - amzn.to/2SRqUfs
Festool 574690 HL 850 E Planer - amzn.to/33W1hAu
Festool 497514 Kapex UG Portable Miter Station Set - amzn.to/2GYFmzT
Festool 574930 CT 26 E HEPA Dust Extractor - amzn.to/352xaGZ
Festool 452881 Non-Antistatic Hose, (36 mm X 3.5 m) - amzn.to/378xUgm
Festool 575039 ETS EC 150/3 EQ Random Orbit Sander - amzn.to/3due7cs
Festool 561593 Carvex PS 420 EBQ Jigsaw - amzn.to/318AjDJ
Festool 574432 Domino Joiner DF 500 Q Set - amzn.to/3179Ne2
Festool 574456 MFK 700 EQ Edge Banding Router - amzn.to/34VAl3a
Festool 574609 KA 65 CONTURO Portable Edge Bander - amzn.to/3iZT2rt
Festool MFT/3 Conturo Table Set - amzn.to/317cHzj
Festool 574692 OF 1400 EQ Router - amzn.to/2H5UOdj
Festool 203160 Parallel Guide Set For Guide Rail System, Imperial - amzn.to/375Ijt2
0:00 Intro
0:53 Materials Needed
2:03 Connecting the Rails
4:30 Aligning the Rails
7:40 Slide Test
8:23 Conclusion - Jak na to + styl
As I'm watching this now, I noticed that totally didn't tighten the bottom screws on the second guide rail...BUT I said to do it!!! Dang youtubers!!😂Make sure you tighten top AND bottom screws while shooting your youtube videos!
Agreed! If you have to make ultra accurate full length rips then that will guarantee string line accuracy.
I work mainly in ‘the-field’, I feel more confident having both the rails butted up together as there would likely be less chance of movement compared to having an international alignment gap. (My gear gets abused!!🤪)
@@deanelyons Oh i can imagine it gets banged up quite a bit if you're lugging it around job sites - benefits of being a hobbyist!! I think everyone has to work around their own gear in their own way - if it works for you AND gets the job done, then more power to ya!!!
Just use the same screw tightening guide we use tender parts in aircraft maintenance. 1/6th turn past sharp rise in torque
The new connector is so much better
Very smart - I made the mistake of using the outside as the reference edge - you’re using the right one
Dude, so well explained!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice. I like how you mentioned to reference the straight edge to the saw track instead of the edge of the track itself. Make good sense.
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful
I purchased the Betterley StraightLine Connector for about $100 and have had great results connecting 2-1400 rails. It is fast and accurate. I can transport my rails in my Makita rail bag to site easily and connect with confidence. Had friend with long rail that ended up on side of road after blowing out of bed traveling to site. Am happy with my way.
Oh man that sucks about your friend's rail!!! I've heard great things about the betterley connectors, glad you're having good use of it
Just got my Betterly today. Essential add on for us folks who use a modular fence approach to going highly portable, yet able to switch into ultra accurate door and plywood ripping in one minute.
thanks for the tips, great video. You have a real knack for explaining things in detail but in an easy way to understand.
Well I appreciate you taking the time to watch and say so!
Good job Ben. I've been using a 4' level to make sure the rails are aligned with a slight gap for years.
Good tips and the sound on this video is so much better. Thank you.
Thanks! Glad the audio is better for you - i upped the decibels a little!
Thank you. Very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
great teacher
Thank you! 😃
solid information and presentation Ben. keep the videos coming. Thanks
Thanks bud!
Use your saw to align your rails. Just put it at the joint and tighten the cams until the saw sticks to rail, then tighten.
I've attempted that method before, and proper alignment needs at least two points on each rail. Using the cams only uses one point per rail, so there's a chance it can get misaligned. The longer the guide rail, the larger the error at the tail end of the cut. I only say this because I've cursed at the gods many nights trying to get good rips!
@@BenMarshallDesigns technically isn't there three reference points, given the rail attachments?
@@dylanm3519 two points of contact meaning the two cam locks. If done how Festool USA's channel showed, straddling the track saw at the joint, with one cam on each of the guide rails. Locking down the cams pinches the guide rails in one location per rail. If you have a track saw and guide rail, I encourage you to see how much play there is in the un-tightened guide rail. There's too much play for my liking!
@@dylanm3519 However, if that method works for you (and anyone else that uses it), and you're getting the results you want - then all the power to ya!!
@@BenMarshallDesigns to be honest, I haven't had to attach rails yet to make longer cuts. But I will have to. So I guess I can test the hypothesis regarding your method and the method I've seen on festool's own video. Situations are never as simple as they are sometimes made to look.
Thank you for a very clear and comprehensive explanation. I wonder what you think of 'self-aligning' connectors e.g the TSO GRC-12? Also what about the Festool FSV/2 connectors?
Thanks for checking it out, glad it helped! I recently picked up the new style connectors, but haven’t messed with them yet!
TSO connectors are made of aluminum so not very sturdy.
@@johndietz1266 good to know!
Your better off getting a good quality 48” straight edge to line up the tracks then use the Festool connectors to tighten them up as shown in this video.
@@johndietz1266 thanks, thats helpful.
First Ben, GREAT video as always!!!
I have a question for you. I am attempting to use the MFT to rip some 1"x 8" lumber (screwed together 2 high) down to 90mm wide. But, the problem is that it canters because the track sits on wood which is not as wide as the track. And, due to the twists and bowing in 1"x, I can't seem to wrap my head around the best approach for leveling off (especially since it doesn't lie flat, as MDF would if simply butting it against the shallow edge of MDF pieces to be cut).
ALLLLlllllll of that stated, Brother... What would be your approach.
(Addendum: I screwed them 2 high, because I will be duplicating the holes intended to be drilled later, and routing slots... so I thought it best to do them all in one process for accuracy. However, if you have other recommendations, then please fire away... I wanted to give a fuller picture so that you could provide the best overall advice for the situation.)
BTW... Happy New Year!
Thanks! That's a pickle. Anytime you're ripping stock that is narrower than the guide rail, you need to have something of equal height/thickness under the guide rail - there's no getting around that.
And if you've got twists and bows...there's not a whole lot you can do to remedy that, other than getting a joiner and planer. Dunno what you're intended use is, but in most cases that's the best bet. If you have a thickness planer, look into a planer sled - which will allow you to use your thickness planer as a joiner (of sorts). I recently milled my own rough cut lumber, straight as can be, with just the thickness planer and a shop mad planer sled.
And, it's hard to picture what your predicament is through text. Hopefully you get it sorted out - and Happy New Year to you as well.
@@BenMarshallDesigns Thanks, Brother. I appreciate it as always man.
Thanks for the video. If you think the end of the rail could be out of square why don’t you pop it on the Kapex (both ends) then double check for a square cut. Then you can butt them together and get a pretty accurate straight connection?
I considered that, however it isn't necessary to have square ends to get the rails in alignment. I think some people default to think that if the ends are touching, it's in alignment, so I wanted to dispel using the ends as a means to align everything.
@@BenMarshallDesigns Exactly. Not to mention many people have more than two rails ...
@@minosi8123 Yep - I think most people fall into that category. Having a longer rail is all about what projects are being done, the time available, money etc. I was lucky enough to be gifted an extra 1080 rail from a friend!
What I can’t understand is why wouldn’t the rail ends be cut perfectly square from the factory, the machinery used to produce Festool products should be more than capable of cutting a perfect square cut surely .
Great video very clear and informative, I've recently bought a HKC 55 and 1400 guide rail, quick couple of questions
1) After adjusting the cams I've noticed the blade is touching the splinter guard on the rail, and will obviously rip it when I eventually get round to using it, is this normal and expected ? it Seems a bit extreme, why wouldn't festool just make the splinter guard meet the edge of the blade ? if so what is the correct way of doing it, just simply cut it off with the saw blade on the first pass ? if not what do I need to adjust on the saw to stop it cutting the splinter rail ?
2) I need to get another rail and connectors to cut UK standard sized sheets of 2440mm x 1220mm. What is the minimum overhang of the rails bottom and top of the work piece, I wanted to get a 1080 guide rail which would give me a total of 2480mm and a 20mm over hang top and bottom, Ive discovered that I can overhang the base plate of the saw 60 - 65mm over the edge of the rail at the beginning, before the back cam becomes disengaged causing slop, so I cant overhang it anymore than that. will this be enough to ensure the blade cuts from the very beginning of the sheet and to the very end, or do I need more overhang and Should I get another 1400 rail instead ?
Thanks for taking time to read all that any advise greatly appreciated.
Hey, Rocket, thanks for the questions.
1. I don't have any experience with the HKC, however with the track saws, the splinter guards do have to be replaced every now and then (depends on use - I've had mine for almost a year and will replace it soon). Seems like this is just a lessoned learned with you adjusting the cams. You should adjust your cams first, and then rip the splinter guard (when new) before making a cut on a project.
2. For the overhang, you want enough rail leftover for the guide plate (flat surface of saw) to be on the rail before going into the material (at least before the arbor). In my experience, it's always best to get a little more extra than what you think you need concerning guide rails. It's always easier to trim your own guide rails (if limited on space) than to buy additional guide rails if you end up being short with what you have.
Hope this helps!
@@BenMarshallDesigns Hi Ben thanks for the amazingly quick response, so I assume the splinter guard is meant to be ripped before first use to take into account subtle differences between models.
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@rocketmunkey1 yes, the first thing you should do with a new guiderail/splinter guard is rip it (without ripping a material). Sometimes our excitement gets the best of us with new tools 😅
@@BenMarshallDesigns I think my problem being as I am a bit of a perfectionist, is I'm too hesitant, having just purchased a fabled Festool saw that hesitancy has been turned up to 11 ;D
@@rocketmunkey1 Perfection comes with practice, my friend. Can't reach perfection unless you start shredding wood fibers. Get to it!
TSO track connectors, automatically align the tracks up without needing a straight edge, is what i use to join three 55 inch
tracks perfect every time makes transport of long track so much easier, check em out!
And great tips and info on your channel thanks for time to create!
I've heard lots of great things about the TSO connectors, and thanks for sharing your experience with them!! Glad you're finding the channel helpful and thanks for dropping a comment.
Hello, where did you buy your TSO connectors? I looked on their website and they seem to be out of stock at the moment.
Don’t be so high on TSO rail connectors they are made of aluminum and can easily get bent from mishandling and become useless.
Your better off getting a good quality straight edge to align the tracks then locking them down with the Festool connectors.
@@johndietz1266 been using mine for 3 years in multiple construction environments, still straight!, FYI, tracks are aluminum too, maybe we better
get steel tracks? My comment is based on real world use, I'm curious, what is yours based on?
Do the redesigned festool track connectors help with alignment?
As far as I understand yes, they are self aligning. I’ve not had a chance to try them out
I agree with not over tightening the rail connecting screws, but you really need to have them a lot tighter than your demo, when the two rails are moved around the entire day with multiple cuts, they will move if you were to stop tightening them once you feel resistance. You would really need to be ham fisted for a grub screw to dent that track. This is why Festool love flat heads, Almost impossible to over tighten things with a flat head , it will jump out of the grove before you get to damage it .
flat head screws are a part of the axis of evil. But Festool chose flathead to prevent people from over tightening too much
Can I use a 48” level to align it?
You can do anything you put your mind to, Igor
As long as the 48” level is straight, then yes
Can’t believe that a set of connectors don’t come with the track.
Not everyone needs them at first
so you must disassemble other tools to assemble one. Not good. Just use a stabila level.
obviously someone wasn't allowed to play with Transformers as a child #autobots
The cost of 2 pieces steel with some tapped holes in them is a rip off.
Let me know when you start selling cheaper versions
@@BenMarshallDesigns just get 2 pieces of steel and drill and tap some holes. In Australia Festool want $80 for that. It's about $6 worth of steel.
It's so much easier to just click a button on amazon though... so
That gap makes no sense. If it isn't 90deg then make it 90deg.
doesn't need to be 90°
Short story LONG!!!
Exactly how I like my hot pockets