Two Post Lift Installation How To - TP9KACX & HD2P-9000AC
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2024
- I made a video like this years ago, and I decided to go back and re-do it. I hope I covered everything you could ever need to know about how to install one of these things. Please ask your questions below and I'll do my best to answer. Here's some links for ya.
The lift we installed
www.redlinesta...
All of our lifts
www.redlinesta...
Stumbled on this vid by accident. Watched the entire thing out of curiosity. This is the new benchmark for CZcams vids. Awesome, informative and no BS.
Success! Thank you
Helluva compliment. We appreciate it, believe me.
Watched this video twice. Last week I installed 2 lifts for a new shop owner. Don't be intimidated by the size of these lifts. It's easier than you think. The videos help tremendously.
Excellent with no BS. Thanks for posting this
The coolest part about this video is the Javelin!
Very detailed video. I haven’t installed my lift yet however having been in construction my whole life, I have installed thousands of anchors and found that using two hammers against each other reduces the mushroom if any and sends the anchor down the hole cause it transfers the blow to it and not the shock causing the shroom if that makes sense. Give it a try on the next one you do. Thanks for the details, it helps eliminate some questions I was curious about before attempting mine.
Really like the level of detail that you explained how to do this and its pitfalls. Thank you for a great tutorial. I do have an issue using pliers to tighten hydraulic fittings. It’s a bad practice that should not be encouraged. On the other hand, it prevents over tightening.
My next DIY project is to install one of these lifts. Your video will sure come in handy. Please allow me to make a few observations. When I drill into concrete, which has cured for at least a month, I keep the hole wet as it prolongs the life of the drill bit and cuts down on the dust. To secure the nuts, I apply Permatex Threadlocker Red on the bolts to help prevent the nuts from backing out. I place a small dot of paint on one side of the nut in line with another on the metal plate to see if the nut has become loose. I use BLASTER White Lithium grease instead of plain grease. My county requires devices like this and electrical wiring permits to be obtained for this installation. Installation of lifts like this is a liability suite ready to happen. Home liability insurance companies could deny a claim if needed permits and inspections were not completed. Insurance companies are in the business of not paying out claims. I would never allow anyone else to operate or use my lift without supervision. A posted sign saying, "Use at your own risk" will be attached to the lift, just in case. I hope that my comment is of value to others.
I'm not saying your comments are not of value, but I am saying that I feel like the existence of attorneys have created a society that needs a warning sticker to do everything but poop...oh wait.
@@RedlineStands Thank you for your reply. A person must consider what might occur if his lift fails, resulting in injury and/or property damage to others. Better to be safe than sorry.
Very sincere and honest instruction ... GREAT job explaining the inner workings of the lift. Stay well and keep on giving information!!!
Hey Ian, I watched your video “Two Post Lift Cables Explained”, also watched the section of this video where you adjusted the cables but I think it would be beneficial to make sort of short video actually showing adjusting the equilibrium cables from start to finish. Thanks Ian.
This company is great . I've ordered my lift from them and there customer service is amazing . They go out of there way to help . If your looking for a lift or other equipment I'd highly recommend buying from them you won't be disappointed.
Awesome. Thank you for that.
love your vedio. You done a great job on explaining step by step process. I would say 1 thing, if my ex boss would ever see me use channel locks on a hex nut he would come unglued lol, Great Vedio.
Extremely well done video. I like where you show how to ease various installation problems and then made a small mistake with the cables.I'm lucky i never made a mistake in my life, I thought I did once, but I was wrong LOL
I’m new here and I have not received my 2 post stand yet but cannot wait , I’ve bought a corvette and it’s time for oil change and the car is so low to the ground I cannot do nothing without laying on floor of shop , I hope you reads these texts messages so I can feel that I can get help when needed and thank you for the help so far and I know the problem with parts and shipping right now so keep rolling and when it happens I will be thankful to god ,you and everybody that helps me
No worries. Just reach out to us at sales@redlinestands.com if you need anything. Thanks!
Nice video, hey bro if this is what you do for living please make a simple rope pulley system that can make it safer to lift up that "Overhead Bar" pulley system can even help with lifting the towers, you will not have to worry mostly the overhead bar failing on somebody. I am a physically challenged combat wounded vet who simply cannot give up on doing heavy works my secret to accomplish any heavy task is power of physics, I use long bars and pullies as well as wheels.
Thanks for making this video, very helpful when I installed my symmetrical two post hoist. Something I wish I thought about was length of the arms. I chose a hoist with two piece arms that can't be shortened enough to reach the lift points on my short wheel based cars. Just a tip for people doing their research.
InabsN6n
that lift i think is sold in Au as LUFTEN
What i did was slot one of the mounting holes predrilled and fitted one fastening on each foot and was then able to silde the column in, the mtg holes 22mm studs 20mm, thereby stabilising each column before drilling the other 5 holes on each foot, My lift second hand so your vid of fitting cables, hoses etc helped.
a JAVELIN ! ! !
So nice to see a random one in the background.
I had a '70 Javelin with 360 & ram air, she was sweeet (body was rotten & hidden under an inch of bondo so it wa😁
Outstanding video, best on CZcams.
Thank you! I really appreciate that.
Excellent info, thanks for sharing all those useful details!
Excellent demonstration, understood 100%. Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Nice video, Don’t worry about the haters, they usually don’t do much but complain about everything in life.🏁
Excellent explanation.Thank you.
Good video. I just installed two of those exact same lifts... A few notes:
If you are going to do epoxy for the bolts, you may as well get the threaded rod method and use anchoring epoxy to secure the lift.
Also, at the top of the pillars, there should be 4 large rubber grommets where the hydraulic line comes through to protect the hoses from rubbing through.
I appreciate this input, but I must respectfullyl disagree. Given the lifts already come with anchors, I recommend using both a chemical and mechanical bond. Surely that's stronger than just using threaded rod via chemical bond? Not just that, but is the steel for the threaded rod the same grade as that of that anchor? I have no idea. Maybe not. If you epoxy the threaded rod into the hole, how much contact surface area is there securing the anchor to the concrete? Again, who knows. I really feel using the supplied anchors is the safer stance.
@@RedlineStands I certainly understand and value your point of view. However, I do want to point one thing out. High-strength anchoring epoxy and threaded rods is how they actually repair anchor bolts that have failed which does happen quite often. As time goes on a lot of those bolts will actually come loose and begin to strip out the whole of concrete thus allowing them to never be fully tightened again. At that point, professionals will use the epoxy method to repair those holes and regain strength in the anchoring system. I can certainly appreciate having both mechanical and chemical bond working to your advantage..
@@E550Boi I'm curious about the threaded rod. There is a CZcamsr that swears by it (grade 8) Lets say your concrete is say 10 inches or so but if you have 5" is there really enough bite for the rod and epoxy
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for posting.
Great video! I'm going to be uninstalling my lift and reinstalling it at another location. I got a kick out of the fact that you used a respirator when you blew the concrete dust out of the hole, but didn't wear safety glasses. XD
LOL. Yeah, I suppose that's a fair criticism.
for all of the guys over here very good and simple and clever idea !!! dont use mechanical anchor bolts as they sucks all the way. use instead very simple thread bar cut to size and glue it in with hilty or fisher chemconcrete which is also cheaper a probably even much stronger than his magic black silicone tube. nothing against this video but there r simpler ways to do it ....
The expansion bolts with the ac100 work though, yes its a overly complex solution Vs a threaded bar but you will end up using many tips to dispense the epoxy if you drill holes as suggested as the epoxy will be set by the time you've drilled the second hole etc
Thank you for a very well detailed video I will be installing my lift soon and revisit this video when it's time to finalize all the details, thank you
Love the video! Thank you very much! However, I couldn't stop staring at the Javelin in the background!!! I think you need to sell me that car!!!!
Ian - very good video. I found and watched your older video first, which was good, but this one was WAY better. I appreciate all the tips that you provide which you would never find in a manual (even if they manufacturer provided one). My dilemma is that I purchased an Atlas 9KOH two post lift, which is VERY similar to the Titan lift you installed in the video. However, there are some nuanced differences. Unfortunately, I can’t find a decent video showing the installation of an Atlas lift, so yours was very helpful. I have only just unpacked my two post lift from the crate (I’ve been busy setting up my four post lift), so I don’t yet have a good understanding of how it all goes together. Of particular interest is the pulleys for the cable on the top rail. I’m not sure my top rail has pulleys installed. If not, I’m assuming they’ll be in the parts bags and I will have to install them on the two post extensions.
Thanks again for a very well done instructional video.
You're very welcome sir. Good luck with your project!
@@RedlineStands here in aus,,we got chem set anchores..
I recommend placing a power cutoff switch near the lift operation button.
I'm confused. Isn't the lift operation button a switch that cuts power on and off as you press it?
@@RedlineStands Yes until the relay fails in the closed position or the button sticks and the lift keeps going and the only way to stop it is at the fuse box. I suppose if it has an over-height sensor it's not an issue however not all lifts have that equipped. It also makes lift motor/ control box repairs a bit easier.
I was looking at the floor plate lifts but I think I'll just move the bottom chords in my shop up a foot or so to get extra height.
Edit: 10 months after my original post. I have nearly finished my addition and moved the bottom chords. I will be installing a lift in a month or two. I have added the epoxy to my shopping cart. I feel way safer using epoxy. I may also fabricate some extensions that go over the baseplate and add an extra hole or two on each side for each post.
Ian, you weren't joking about the AC 100+ Gold setting up quick. I was installing my Launch 2-post today and I used the one mixing nozzle that comes with it but after the first anchor bolt that nozzle was toast. I did the rest on cardboard with a screwdriver like you showed. 😆
LOL. In the summertime that stuff is too hard to work with it after only 45 seconds.
Great video
Vertical is PLUMB, horizontal is LEVEL!
Wow you’re so cool for correcting them
@@frikkied2638 - And you're NOT, for being one of the multitude that insists on coddling stoooopidity. This nation has gone from being the top in education, to being one of the lowest, because no one cares or you're more worried about offending an idiot's precious ego and enabling their ignorance, then correcting them. This nation was once revered and respected for setting an example of accomplishments but not is the laughing stock of the world.
Old carpenter gonna carpenter.
@frikkied2638 sadly, he didn't even correct him. He only reaffirmed the statement. Vertical columns are described as being plumb. Pictures, tables and floors would be described as level horizontally.
@@frikkied2638 - Sorry if I offended you, KAREN! When idiots use the wrong terminology, then those who are watching and learning from these videos suffer the same stuuuupidity!
Superb video, thanks!
Very informative video. Thank you. Great job
thank you so much, bro, it's a wonderful job.
Great Video! Not sure I would take my eyes off the car as I lower it. But that's just me....
Best install video.
Excellent job!
Great detailed video, I must say I liked my Forward lift better because they mount the hydraulic cylinders to the top of the lift so that they pull instead of pushing. A ram pulling is a lot stronger than one pushing therefore using smaller diameter tube, smaller diameter shaft ,using less fluid making the lift move faster. Time is money.⚙️😎
Uhm wrong
You got that backwards chief. Also on something that lifts heavy weight, you want to go as big as you can afford. Never skimp and go with the minimum requirements. Begging for a disaster.
@@lynxstarautomotive208 just a little experiment for you, take a straw , hold one end down , take a 1/2” drill bit, now bend the straw over it then push on the straw and see how little pressure it takes to cause it to kink, now pull on it really hard. Can you pull the kink out of it ? To be perfectly clear, look at a lift that pushes. How big is the shaft diameter. Now look at a lift like the Forward lift that pulls. See how much smaller the diameter of the shaft is and it has the same ton lifting rating ?
@@batman607point me to a pulling lift, and an equivalent pushing lift so I can compare the two. Otherwise you’re talking drill bits and straws. I’ve never seen any two post lift that didn’t push the vehicle upwards. Only on some 4 point lifts have I seen that the cylinders pull due to a cable and pulley setup.
@@lynxstarautomotive208 like I said my FORWARD Lift ( Brand name) used cylinders that pulled, not pushed. The RAMS were only about 1/2 the diameter of a lift that pushes. I’m not talking cylinder diameter which everybody knows the bigger the diameter the cylinder the more powerful it is .The straw was just an example to show how easy it is to bend but rally hard to pull apart.
Amazing guide!
Also you didn't bleed the lines for hydraulic fluid. Any air in line will damage the pump over time
my lift instructions does not have any mention to bleeding lines. i ques that is not necessary with these kind cylinders ?
They bleed themselves. On the way down the air is pushed into the reservoir, hence why you only fill to the fill line.
34:52 Very important!
Thank you very much for info
Good video! Thanks.
I would like to have on the bottom plate steel going from one column to the other, that’s the only way I would feel safe because you don’t really know the quality of the concrete unless it’s tested in a lab and I have seen those anchors pull right out.
The bottom plate isn't structural.
Hearing the locks separate so I know they've both engaged seems to make sense?
Great job
when you put a level on the side of something going up and down it is called plumb--horizontal is level
great job,
hi does it matter witch column you fasten to the ground first and if i drill all the way through my 10 inch concrete slab will i benefit form something what would that be. im fixing to install mine with my wife and im doing with confidence of watching your great amazing video. i feel im ready. thank you
It doesn't matter which column you soft anchor first and there's no need to go all the way through your pad if it is 10" thick.
sweet it means a lot to me that you reply i apricate you a lot. to day i order the ac100+gtold dewalt but it will take several days is one 10 oz enough for 14 bolts. its for a challengercl10v3@@dustingilmore2710
Nice video. I do not think 4in is enough, for most lifts. You probably need more, 6 or 7. Sure, the bolts might be anchored in a hole 4in deep, but concert probably needs to be bigger. Check manuals.
A lot of companies say 4 inch is minimum.
Good vid, but you do not need to invent anchoring. Both anchors, and glued rods have its certificate, and proper installation method. Mixing the two is not a way that others should follow. For this aplication, i would choose glued one, probably a Hilti HVU+HAS, it is certified, if you follow installation instruction, good result is guaranteed.
Need your help with some questions; 1) My garage door is 10’x10 and the roof trusses are about 11’, but my ceiling is open, so can I just install between the trusses? It sure seems I could. 2) My floor was poured in 1979, not a crack anywhere and it was 4” thick. Since concrete gets stronger with age, am I better off just installing it with 4” well seasoned concrete, or am I stuck with cutting out the floor to make a thick/deep pad, but now fresh concrete? 3) does anyone make a lift with a larger base plate so I can install on my floor without cutting the floor and doing the pad. Thanks a million
This lift below has a huge baseplate, which helps to spread the load over a larger area. I don't see any issue with running the lift between the trusses. I'm sorry but I have to decline to answer your concrete question. If I'm right, I just don't win anything, but if I'm wrong, I win a lawsuit. Sorry, but this is modern day American for ya.
www.redlinestands.com/catalog/lifts-c-290/automotive-lifts-c-290_138/2-post-car-truck-lifts-c-290_138_139/kernel-15k-lb-clearfloor-automotive-2-post-lift-p-474
Any details about the recommended concrete pad?
The honest answer is refer to the manual. Some lifts require 4" poured to 3000PSA and larger lifts require more.
Confusing when you used the block of wood to “level” the second column.
Did you mean “plumb” the second column?
Hard to tell as it appears you looked at the small level glass at the bottom.
How to bleed the hydraulic cylinders
Most chain drive lifts are bled by raising and lowering the lift without a load. Raise the lift ½ way and lower it, ¾, lower, all the way, lower. As you lower the lift each time, you should notice air exiting the system into the power unit reservoir. If there is a good amount of air in the system, you may need to add a little weight to the arms to help it come down, but you do not want to lift a vehicle to perform this task. If the lift is a direct drive system, most of them have bleeder valves on the top of the cylinder. Slowly unscrew the bleeder. Close the bleeder when no more air/bubbles are coming out. Do this on both cylinders.
Boss man, when useing level, up and down is plum and flatways is level.
Nice video, but a guy with an engineering degree shouldn't be using plyers to tighten hydrolic lines. The actual name for "Flaired fittings" as you say is JIC. Just saying.
You might want to use wrenches in place of pliers or at least turn your pliers over so you don't round over the nuts.
That is some real hack to tighten hydraulic fittings without a back up wrench and using pliers. Engineers all think they are techs
How tight do the tension cables have to be
We tell customers they should be taught, not tight. While not under a load, if you can thump it and it vibrates like a guitar string it is too tight.
Good video, but 1- you didn't mention how to bleed the hydraulic system, and 2- with epoxy set up on the anchors, knowing they should be checked for torque occasionally, how does that work with the epoxy already set up? And 3- you didn't show the total routing of the cables, like the lower rollers.
It's rare that you have to bleed it at all, but if you need to do it, you just open the bleeder on the top of the cylinder and quickly blip the power on the pump and it'll expunge any air. Obviously, we don't do this while loaded. I normally only retorque mine every couple years, but that's only because I don't use it much, and the epoxy doessn't seem to change that too much. Routing the cables? Best thing to do is look at your manual. There's always a cable routing diagram in there.
@@RedlineStands Thanks for the reply. I'm going to be removing and reinstalling my 10k lift in about a year and want to make sure I do it right. Thanks for the adv
I'm over six feet tall. Do they make these things tall enough so I don't have to duck when I walk under a car?
Some of them, yes. This Launch 11K below goes up to 75" high. You can then add truck adapters to it to get even more lifting height, assuming you have the ground clearance to get the truck adapter in place. They're out there, but you gotta dig.
www.redlinestands.com/catalog/lifts-c-290/automotive-lifts-c-290_138/2-post-car-truck-lifts-c-290_138_139/launch-11k-asymmetric-2-post-clearfloor-lift-ali-certified-p-2424
Thanks for the great video. I have the 10A and after unpacking it and placing the posts in their locations, I found that the chain pulley assembly came off the hydraulic cylinder. Is there a good way to get this back on the cylinder? I didn’t see an immediate solution in the few minutes I had with it.
Those normally just set onto the top of the cylinder with no tools needed. Should take 7-9 seconds to fix. Good luck.
Love how he ecplaining
👍🏻
Ian - I spoke with the distributor of my two post lift (Atlas) today for some installation support. During our conversation, I mentioned to him your advice about using the AC100+ Gold adhesive. He was of the belief (and I saw online videos with the same opinion) that I needed to drill my holes 7/8” to accommodate the thickness of the adhesive around the 3/4” anchor bolt as it goes in the hole. I don’t recall you addressing this in your video, but my belief is that you used a 3/4” drill bit for your holes, not a 7/8” drill bit. Can you confirm my understanding?
You are correct. I used a 3/4" bit, which is the correct size for the bit with no epoxy. It's important to understand that I'm both gluing and expanding my anchor. I'm expanding the anchor while it's still wet. I personally wouldn't be comfortable with drilling my hole that much larger on purpose. That's how I did it on my Launch 11K at home and I consistently put my 8200 lb diesel on my lift and she holds fine. Past that, I'm not sure what more I can say.
I didn't epoxy my anchors and after the 4th vehicle raised 5 needed retorqued and one spins. I should knock them all threw and redo them all with epoxy?
That's probably a good idea. You damn-sure can't continue to use the lift as-is for sure. Hopefully you drilled all the way through the concrete.
So I’m having problems with the safety latches not engaging how do I fix this problems haven’t found any videos to help thanks
I have no idea what lift you have, so that's a tough one to answer. Most lifts have safety lock access plates you can remove and see/repair those locks. I'd start by trying to find that access plate and having a look. In the meantime, definitely don't use the lift.
@22+ you said that level is more important than the distance between posts. Absolutely incorrect !!!
The distance between the posts are more important to begin with. Level can be accomplished by shims, which is why you get them. If you push the post in or out at the bottom, you vehicles will walk themselves off the arm seats.
I use to install these and other types of lifts all over the east coast. Porche in Cincinnati Ohio, i was working with the company that installed all of theirs and would come back for maintenance. Geometry is extremely key to installation
Very nice video.
Since you drilled through the slab to dirt, how do you now how deep to pound the anchors in?
Do you use the nut as a depth stop gauge?
How far do you thread the nut down to know when to stop pounding?
Also, I imagine the torque values are different by lift, but what is the general range you've used? For info,
I put the nut on there with it threaded onto the anchor just enough to get the nut fully threaded onto the anchor. From there, I hammer it down as far as it'll go until the nut stops it from going down further. Once you tighten it down, there will then be enough thread space for the lock washer and regular washer to be added under the nut. Definitely obtain your torque values from the manual. I've seen them range from 75 to 120 ft lbs.
What an excellent video, thank you! I am thinking about putting a 2-post hoist in my shop but I noticed you said the posts can not be close to relief cuts so just wondering if there is a minimum distance the posts should be away from a relief cut? Thank you!
Your manual will specify that.
Ok thank you
You drill the concrete all the was through till you hit dirt and then you put in the anchor? How far above the dirt should you put the anchor?
It's not about how far above the dirt should you install the anchor. It's only about making sure your anchor is as deep as possible in the concrete. The dirt means nothing sir.
Great video, what is the minimum side wall distance you recommend? Thanks again!!
Assuming the slab has a footer, then you just need enough space to easily walk around the tower. If it doesn't have a footer, then I'd give it 5 feet.
@@RedlineStands Yes it has a footer its 24x54 I just didn't want to tie up the whole space I was thinking about 30 inches from the wall? Do you sell 4 post movable lifts? Also I was thinking of epoxy the floor but I assume the floor needs to be clean under the pads of the lift. Thanks again. Tommy
Thank you for the video. Can I send the video to my buyer?
LOL. I would prefer you do sir Share away!
I'm sure this is limited to this particular lift, but I saw no deactivation of the safety locks to lower the lift. How is that done?
It's no big deal. You just pull the safety release cables under "each" column
@@RedlineStands So there is something to do at each column before lowering the lift. So, the procedure would be to go to the column that does not have the pump and perform some procedure and then move to the pump column and do the same and then lower the lift. Is there any particular point in the video where these "releases" are shown?
I don't have concrete floor how deep should my footers be
Great video Ian. If I install a lift with the floor ramp, cold I chisel out the cement between the columns so there isn't as much as a bump? Thanks for sharing.
Nope, because the cables inside the ramp would not drop down with the ramp.
@@RedlineStands oh.thanks.it was a good idea if it would work. I still liked your video
How do you learn it down
can i put air lock control for my safety locks
AWESOME VID! What torques spec & Size Anchors did you use?
Every lift I've ever seen has come with 3/4" anchors. Now with that said, you need to consult the manaul to whatever lift you're buying concerning the size of the anchors and torque specs.
how far apart are your post set? I am pouring the concrete floor and wanting to pour the concrete deeper in that area. Thanks
You need to consult the manual of the lift you're buying because it's different for every lift.
whats the thickness of the concrete? I think you said it but I couldn't make it out. I know you said you have a video on the concrete and I will try and watch that. Thanks, considering on buying one.
The 9K in this video required 4" 3ksi with reinforcement, but you need to check the manual for your lift as the specs of the concrete will vary based on several variables, such as the size of the baseplate.
31:38 If you're gonna use the wrong tool, you might as well use it backwards.
I wish for once, just once, that someone critiquing my video would link me to their video that was flawless. Ain't happened yet in 20 years, but I'm still hopeful.
I have tons of videos on my other accout; (deathwrench custom parts) ....but I was just having fun with you. I appreciate everything that I'm learning from you. I do have a question though- how does the air get bled from the hydraulic system? Thank you! I'm getting ready to take my lift down and move it to my new place. Cheers! :)
@@EricSolvesky Copy that. There are bleeders atop the cylinders. You just set the carriages onto the safety locks, remove the bleed hole plugs, wait a minute or so, quickly bump the motor, fluid should spray out of both carriage bleeder holes. Assuming it did, you can replace the bleeders and you're good to go. The goal is just to release a little fluid from atop both cylinders so that you get any air out. If the vehicle bounces as it goes up, you still got air in it. That's about it.
Right on! Thank you for the help!@@RedlineStands
Hey Ian, Great video! Not sure if I missed it but did that one tube of AC100+Gold do all 10 anchors or would you need more than one?
One tube is more than enough.
You don't need to waste $25 dollars on that tube; any good concrete adhesive will work fine!
How you take the bolts out we just did one but did not clean the drill holes
LOL. You don't....ever. Once the anchors are in there, you can never remove them. If you do, both the anchor and anchor hole are ruined. Sorry....
Ian, if I decide to pick up my new 2-post lift at a satellite location, how long of a trailer will I need? Thanks!
Depends on the lift, but 12 ft should do
I noticed in the first hole drilled-- at the end dirt came up, so apparently it went past the concrete. is that a problem?
No sir. I recommend drilling until you hit dirt
What size nuts are the nuts for the anchors?
1 1/8
Plumb not Level?? and Benpac says do not drill thrub the concrete? and Most say the concrete be 6 inches thick not 4 inches, if so, use another steel plate like 1`/4 inch about 6 inches larger than the bottom plate!
So, are all these units 220 volt?
Ian, question... I'm reading the specs on a 2-post that I like. It states 73 inches max lifting height. It that measured from the bottom of the 4 lift arms or the bottom of the vehicle? I'm right at 6 foot tall (72 inches) and I'm wondering if I can walk under the car without having to duck down a little? Thanks!
That's from the concrete to the top of the lifting pad, without using the truck adapters. If you install a 5" truck adapter, then 78" is your lifting height. Bear in mind you're typically lifting from the lowest point on the vehicle, so the bottom of the frame might be 72" from the concrete, but the floor boards might by 75" up. Also bear in mind that you can't use a truck adapter on something that's not a truck, because the arm will never slide underneath the vehicle with a truck adapter installed....generally speaking
@@RedlineStands Thanks Ian, I appreciate it. I'm considering 2 of your Launch Tech lifts... the TLT-210 XT and the TLT-240 SC.
What are the overall dimensions of your garage?
What size are the studs and what size is the drill to drill the hold
Depends on the lift. You really need to consult the manual to the lift you're installing. They're not all the same sir.
I see you tested for pad thickness, do you test for PSI or when would you? I have a 30x40 Morton building (20yrs old), not sure of pad thickness yet, but curious of PSI tests. Thanks!
So it's not really feasible to test an existing slab for strength. To do that, you'd need to remove a section of the slab, machine it to shape so it can fit into the testing machine, and destroy it via destructive testing. If you're going to mount a lift to a slab and you don't know the strength of the slab, you should do everything possible to skew the odds in your favor. Example. Don't lift heavy vehicles, buy a lift with huge base plates, use epoxy with your anchors (see video), test for thickness, etc.
What is the torque settings
Gotta read your manual for that. I don't want to tell you one number, and then the spec for your lift require something different, resulting in an accident.
What do you do if floor is slanted and one post is 1" lower then the other? Do you grout?
I'm sorry but I cannot answer that question for reasons of liability.
How much Epoxy did you need?
Typically a tube will be sufficient. You'll want to make sure the lower (non threaded) portion is evenly coated.
@@dustingilmore2710 Thank you! Going to order a tube today
Takes 10 DAYS for that epoxy to arrive via Amazon. Is there another one you'd recommend?
That's the best stuff out there that I know of.
@@dustingilmore2710 I can get Redhead T7+ within an hour drive. Know anything about it?
@@dustingilmore2710 I picked up some Red Head T7+ at Lowes today. Getting things ready to install this weekend.