BOAT HORN NOT WORKING - Can We Fix it?
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- čas přidán 24. 10. 2022
- In this Tea Break Repair, me and Brian look at the horn on his BAYLINER 2855 boat. It hasn't worked since he purchased the boat, will it be fixable? Or will he forever have to use his Air Horn Can to warn others of his presence as he navigates the choppy waters of the River Thames.
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Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince.
Love the Wine Glass holder next to the drivers seat!!
That nest of wring was in a state, needs the front panel off and a proper tidy up. Looks like something else will come loose at any moment!
looks like original horn was upgraded with a higher current one, which would make the original switch insufficiently able to handle the higher amps...so you fit a relay. Same idea as when fitting extra lights to a car. The wiring diagram shows a simple switch joining one wire..an in and an out. Connect. So the switch takes all the current. I gather someone fitted a bigger/replacement horn, and then bodged a relay in, badly. It'll be a type 86 relay, used all over the show in cars. Common. Worth reading up about how to wire them. Good job figuring it out Vince.
very good temporary fix😊 when you have to make it 100% finished, use some joint sleeves with solder in them and they shrink over the joint so they are 100% waterproof😊 I would draw a brand new ground wire for the whole thing, so you are sure that you have a 100% good ground wire (this is very important) it is always a bad ground wire which is to blame for many hot wires and possible melting cables, regardless of whether they are boats or cars😊 or trailer / trailer connector (the damn ground wires / ground connections)😅😅. and the best thing would be to buy a relay housing, they cost almost nothing and have new wires on them. then it will also be easier when you have to change the relay when it has worn out.I think the aforementioned owner had a double horn (a large horn) with mega sound installed😅😅 so the last wire has been to number 2 horn😊 I love to sit and watch your different fixes of different things, I myself have learned a lot about something that I myself have not now separated into such small parts😅🥰
Great fix as always Vince. I'm all for simplicity so would probably have done away with the relay as well. The horn has a low current draw and on a momentary switch its not going to need a relay. I suspect this was for the other after market item as you suggested. 😃😃
I commented about the wiring in your trim tab video and then seeing this one, it is about the connectors not being heat shrink type. The manufacturers did not take the time and expense of using heat shrink connectors. Corosion OS the biggest enemy of a boat and those junk connectors fail always after some time. I suggest that every connector be changed to heat shrink as all of them will eventually fail and you will constantly be chasing these broken wires. I have changed hundreds on my boat and have hundreds to go. Almost every failure is due to the open type crimp splices with corroded wires falling out. I have found dozens of broken butt splices and terminal ends. My boat is 23 years old and 46 feet with literally hundreds of splices and connectors. I buy heat shrink connectors and butt splices buy the hundreds and always seem to be running out as I just proactively replace them when I am in any area. Only very high end boats take the time and expense to use the heat shrink type connectors and but splices.
So, The only reason the switch needs a 0V (Also can be called ground or negative, I'm OK with any of that) is to make the indicator light when it's on. The bulb will draw milliamps.
HAH! I love the spare wine glass next to the fire extinguisher. Maybe that is normal, but it's the first time I have ever seen that.
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A few years later : SATELLITE IS NOT WORKING - Can We Fix it ?
the wiring to the horn , you put one direct negative earth to the horn and the negitive side of the switch , next the live wire from the fuse block to the positive side of the switch then the postive switched terminal on the switch you put a wire to the other terminal or postive side of the horn making a curcuit . dump the relay The live wire or postive is the only wire which is controlled by the switch . The red light in the switch is on the same curcuit as the switched live connection meaning it will only light up when the switch is turned on .
I think I’d change the chock block for either Wago’s or another lever wire connector.
Wow, that existing wiring loom looks horrendous !! Guessing there's plenty more videos to come 😂👍
Vince I think this is a bit bigger than a Tea Time fix. That loose Grey/Blue wire hanging is part of the All Round Lights according to your first wiring diagram. This needs the dash taken out and each circuit rewired one by one. I’m pretty sure the original circuit ( as shown in wiring diagram) was switching +ve 12 v to the horn with -ve being connected to a fixed battery -ve point. Probably a bigger horn was added (might be the one that’s there now or maybe not), however that horn had a bigger current draw. Hence the larger fitted fuse, however I doubt the switch was rated for the higher current (or they were worried it would fail). So they used the switch (low current ) to turn on a relay coil then used a +ve feed too the horn and switched the -ve side of the horn through the relay contact to battery -ve. I think doing what you are now doing may still be switching the negative side. If you are, that would not be good in my opinion, I would suggest as it is it leaves +ve permanently present on the horn, which could short or (leak) current either blowing the fuse, or possibly flattening the battery. I could be wrong. But I would measure the horn current and then either rewire to route direct through the dash switch, to the horn. Or rewire to switch +ve to the relay coil with the horn then fed through the relay contacts. The -ve of the horn and coil going to a battery -ve point. Hope this makes sense, it sounds great in my head. :). If not shout.
I didn't know boats came with Wine Glass Holders.
I'm an electrician by trade but like yourself I've done nearly everything . I reckon the only reason for the relay there is if they were driving something else besides the horn off that switch , ie the lights flashed when you blew the horn ( which might be too many amps for the switch , hence the relay) . Whenever I work on boats or mobile homes I always solder the joints and use heat shrink. I've seen some horrible connections with scotch lock things and spade connectors . Well done Vince , keep up the good work
Those automotive relays are very simple and are used for high amp loads like horns, Heaters etc. so you won't fry the switch.
Love the wine glass holder
i love you video's i wish i had you as my dad
There's no need for the relay it's been used in the past to power some accessories. The switch only needs to switch the live the natural in the switch is just to light the bulb/led.