Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.
Losi 5ive T 2.0 Stock vs. Bartolone Exhaust
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 11. 2022
- Just a quick sound comparison between the stock exhaust and a Bartolone tuned pipe for the Zenoah G320RC in my stock Losi 5ive T 2.0. Bartolone makes a huge difference. Definitely wakes it up!
This is a great comparison video, just what I was looking for. I know that tune pipes help the engine produce a lot more power however. I personally like the sound of the stock muffler. I am not going to be racing just bashing in my neighborhood, so the stock muffler is a great option for me.
Could you feel any difference with the new pipe?
Yes. There’s a lot more power in the mid range and top end with this pipe
Wicked
I’m thinking of buying one only thing is that it will be my first gas Rc truck! I have plenty of Arma + traxxas cars an trucks just don’t want any problems with maintenance an starting issues? What do you recommend for gas vp Rc premixed fuels ! .???
They can be a pain in the ass to start at times. First thing I would do because as it gets run over and over, starting will be annoying. The Taylor RC starter is what I have. Makes it a lot easier. Make sure you also have spare spark plugs too. Sometimes it will just want to flood itself for no reason. But it consists of using a lighter, burn off the excess fuel on the plug then it will fire right up. The carb will eventually fail so get ready to get a Walboro with the "bearing mod". Stops the leaks. Detroit Performance RC, DDM, and Matt Olson Designs has a lot of spares you'll eventually need. As far as fuel goes, I actually buy TruFuel (non pre-mix in gray can) and then mix with Amsoil Dominator 2 stroke oil. Very good combination. You can get VP's 25:1 which is good but I think it's better to run what you can find locally. Do not use anything with ethanol. If you need a lot of help in knowing what to get, contact Dave from Hardcore RC. He gave me quite a lot of advice with my 5T
Thanks I appreciate all the information!@@GreggCesaroni
@@mmig2116 to answer another question about hard starting. So when I had issues of starting, I had an air filter on mine I thought was great but wasn’t. DT1 filter. With outerwear’s pre-filter. Sure it opened up a lot of air to the motor. But it was actually too restrictive for my modded carb. I think it was the pre-filter and it being a triple stage filter that made it just collapse. It’s a cone shape too so there’s that. I put on the MOD air filter with the outerwear’s pre-filter which you should always run. Even stock. I’ll tell you why below. Started it for the first time in a while yesterday. So much easier. Took 8 pulls. 3-4 on choke til it popped, then 4-5 til it started to idle.
Why you should run a pre-filter even with stock intake. The way the stock body and cage are, it’s pretty open. So grass likes to flick up in to the body. And the entire chassis acts like a tray. They also have outerwear’s covers for the starter and engine case. Get those just to keep as much dirt and grass out of the flywheel.
I have the 30° North body on mine now so I can run axle extenders. The front wheels are covered more so the grass doesn’t come in but not as much as it could be. Rear is more open. DDM sells these “fender liners” you bolt on to the cage and it stops the problem. Get a pipe and you will have to cut a slot for it. Or let it burn a hole through. Makes it easier. Never seen much grass inside since then. Honestly, keep the stock body nice and just buy the 30° North body. So much more durable.
Thanks so much I have dirt bikes so i understand about the air filters I appreciate it @@GreggCesaroni
Is this worth buying or do you think a new version with reverse will be coming any time soon
Absolutely! You definitely should buy one! Now if there ever is a version 3, I don't see how they could put a reverse in without it adding a bit of complexity. It can be done but then it would require a whole transmission vs. the simple center diff. I typically run mine in open areas. Only once I said to myself "looks like we are walking..... haha". But with that being said, 3.0 will probably have slight changes over 2.0. Dave from Hardcore RC has 1.0 and 2.0 and he's told me there are a lot of similarities. Just the angles of the center driveshafts are different. He threw in the Zenoah G320 in his 1.0. Stock engine is the 26 or 29cc. Practically the same as his 2.0 before he put in an OBR 34cc. When or if 3.0 comes out, I'm pretty sure you can do the conversions. It's like my Arrma Kraton V4 and me doing the full EXB diff conversion from the V5
@@GreggCesaroni great expertise input. 3.0 might have a reed engine but anyway I want to get my hands on one of these because in California they're in the process of banning the sale of small engine stuff and I don't know if this will fall in that category. Electric RC I will always be able to buy.
@@doublem6027 I bet you they might fall in to that category. It’s such a stupid law. I’d buy one now if I were you. Just in case
@@GreggCesaroni definitely buying one before that law comes in. Waiting for a sale this Holiday season lol
@@doublem6027 i’ve got one that i’m looking to sell just broke a front arm. don’t have time to use it anymore
🥵
Chique carro 🚗
Top carro 🚗 😊
I got the same car same exhaust raw, and i am telling you , get ready for some rust lol. my entire thing is rusted even though i sprayed it with wd40 every time i take her out. so annoying.
I’m seeing a bit of it haha! Trying to keep this thing clean is a chore in itself lol. I don’t mind the rust that much. Just adds character haha
u have to clean it with wd40 and a scotch brite every ride. welcome to the 2 stroke world
Your supposed to clean it before you get it hot for the first time. When you touch it and it gets hot your oil from your fingers creates rust. Plus you need to clean it properly. Mine has no rust and have had it for a while
@ryguy9544 it's the salty sweat from fingers that catalyzes rust, oil does not. Rust = Fe2 +O3