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It still runs lol.

They can be a pain in the ass to start at times. First thing I would do because as it gets run over and over, starting will be annoying. The Taylor RC starter is what I have. Makes it a lot easier. Make sure you also have spare spark plugs too. Sometimes it will just want to flood itself for no reason. But it consists of using a lighter, burn off the excess fuel on the plug then it will fire right up. The carb will eventually fail so get ready to get a Walboro with the "bearing mod". Stops the leaks. Detroit Performance RC, DDM, and Matt Olson Designs has a lot of spares you'll eventually need. As far as fuel goes, I actually buy TruFuel (non pre-mix in gray can) and then mix with Amsoil Dominator 2 stroke oil. Very good combination. You can get VP's 25:1 which is good but I think it's better to run what you can find locally. Do not use anything with ethanol. If you need a lot of help in knowing what to get, contact Dave from Hardcore RC. He gave me quite a lot of advice with my 5T

Thanks I appreciate all the information!@@GreggCesaroni

@@mmig2116 to answer another question about hard starting. So when I had issues of starting, I had an air filter on mine I thought was great but wasn’t. DT1 filter. With outerwear’s pre-filter. Sure it opened up a lot of air to the motor. But it was actually too restrictive for my modded carb. I think it was the pre-filter and it being a triple stage filter that made it just collapse. It’s a cone shape too so there’s that. I put on the MOD air filter with the outerwear’s pre-filter which you should always run. Even stock. I’ll tell you why below. Started it for the first time in a while yesterday. So much easier. Took 8 pulls. 3-4 on choke til it popped, then 4-5 til it started to idle. Why you should run a pre-filter even with stock intake. The way the stock body and cage are, it’s pretty open. So grass likes to flick up in to the body. And the entire chassis acts like a tray. They also have outerwear’s covers for the starter and engine case. Get those just to keep as much dirt and grass out of the flywheel. I have the 30° North body on mine now so I can run axle extenders. The front wheels are covered more so the grass doesn’t come in but not as much as it could be. Rear is more open. DDM sells these “fender liners” you bolt on to the cage and it stops the problem. Get a pipe and you will have to cut a slot for it. Or let it burn a hole through. Makes it easier. Never seen much grass inside since then. Honestly, keep the stock body nice and just buy the 30° North body. So much more durable.

Thanks so much I have dirt bikes so i understand about the air filters I appreciate it @@GreggCesaroni

Box end wrench or spanner. Loosen the screw. Then take a pair of pliers and yank it out. If it’s a hex screw, grab the screw head with pliers and try to turn it

Yes. There’s a lot more power in the mid range and top end with this pipe

Thank you!!! I personally would recommend the Ninja 400 over the R3. But it is difficult for me to decide the DRZ400 over the Ninja 400. It mainly depends what you are looking for in a bike. Top end performance and speed on a track with good handling, Ninja 400. Low end power out of corners and great handling right out of the box, DRZ400. If you go with the Ninja and want better track performance, get ready to modify lol. Clipons, rear sets, brakes, suspension and definitely tires to start. Those will make it fun. If you want a track day toy not eligible for racing in a 400 class, you can go even more with the 400. Long story short, it all depends what you are looking for. My 300 can do commuting well. Before the track mods, it was comfy. Now, not so comfy but I don't like to commute with it for safety reasons...

@@GreggCesaroni Thank you for the information I really appreciated. What are your thought about 18 MT07?

@@jayrock497 I know someone who has one and she loves it! Personally, I haven't gotten to experience one so I can't say much about them. My friend did take it on the track and she had a blast!

@@GreggCesaroni Thank you cheers!

Trying to find the time to get back haha! As soon as it’s done I gotta break in the motor, then lose 20 pounds haha! I miss the track so much. It’s been almost 6 years

If you want fire yes a full system. If you want just the pops you can use a slip on only. Ideally you should get a dyno tune.

@@GreggCesaroni oh man you replied after 7 years you are awesome 😎 thanks for the tip you got a new subscribe

@@GreggCesaroni oh thanks also I am 5 feet and new is it good for me I just bought my full gear

I’m seeing a bit of it haha! Trying to keep this thing clean is a chore in itself lol. I don’t mind the rust that much. Just adds character haha

u have to clean it with wd40 and a scotch brite every ride. welcome to the 2 stroke world

Your supposed to clean it before you get it hot for the first time. When you touch it and it gets hot your oil from your fingers creates rust. Plus you need to clean it properly. Mine has no rust and have had it for a while

​@ryguy9544 it's the salty sweat from fingers that catalyzes rust, oil does not. Rust = Fe2 +O3

Absolutely! You definitely should buy one! Now if there ever is a version 3, I don't see how they could put a reverse in without it adding a bit of complexity. It can be done but then it would require a whole transmission vs. the simple center diff. I typically run mine in open areas. Only once I said to myself "looks like we are walking..... haha". But with that being said, 3.0 will probably have slight changes over 2.0. Dave from Hardcore RC has 1.0 and 2.0 and he's told me there are a lot of similarities. Just the angles of the center driveshafts are different. He threw in the Zenoah G320 in his 1.0. Stock engine is the 26 or 29cc. Practically the same as his 2.0 before he put in an OBR 34cc. When or if 3.0 comes out, I'm pretty sure you can do the conversions. It's like my Arrma Kraton V4 and me doing the full EXB diff conversion from the V5

@@GreggCesaroni great expertise input. 3.0 might have a reed engine but anyway I want to get my hands on one of these because in California they're in the process of banning the sale of small engine stuff and I don't know if this will fall in that category. Electric RC I will always be able to buy.

@@doublem6027 I bet you they might fall in to that category. It’s such a stupid law. I’d buy one now if I were you. Just in case

@@GreggCesaroni definitely buying one before that law comes in. Waiting for a sale this Holiday season lol

@@doublem6027 i’ve got one that i’m looking to sell just broke a front arm. don’t have time to use it anymore

Old GoPro lol

I don't know about the laws in your country but I'd imagine you can. It does come with a silencer pipe which makes it real quiet

As soon as I went with a catless header it became that bike’s signature haha! In person it’s really loud hahaha!

@@GreggCesaroni nice, I've had mine three years now, was my first street bike. I'll be trading it in soon for a FZ-09 or GSSX-S 750

@@az_pit_viper4270 I’ve kept mine since 2014 lol. Main reason being it’s the most fun you’ll ever have on a track. Just get new suspension. Stock stuff is deadly. I refuse to upgrade to a bigger bike unless it’s an Aprilia RS660. Plus I wouldn’t ever get rid of mine. There’s so much done to it!

@@GreggCesaroni did you get check engine light?

@@johnbuck13 Nope! Only time you'd see a check engine light on that bike is if there is an issue with the fuel injection. Mine did not come with an O2 sensor.

Supercharged

You can't hear it??

That I actually do not remember

We use pretow for all things now. Resin is already in the carbon filament at a set amount. Usually within less than 1% of each other. Won’t say what the exact percentage is for obvious reasons. It’s much cleaner, consistent, and isn’t time sensitive. I can go to work with a clean white shirt and come home with a clean white shirt after an entire day of winding. This video was when I was learning how to do the basics of filament winding at 21 years old. Learning how to program turnarounds and different wind angles. As far as tension, both my machines use pulleys on load cells which goes to a controller, then to a motor which adds tension on each roll of carbon. The motor applies a torque going in the opposite direction. Both machines work the same way for tension and operation but my newer machine is much more precise, consistent, and much more forgiving. The tension is controlled within the software of the machine. Also much safer too. If it senses a break, it immediately pauses the program. This machine you see here runs a separate controller. You constantly have to watch out for a break. It’s a long story with that one which I’m not gonna get in to. Hope this answers your questions!

Filament winder! Control software on this us actually Mach 3 or 4 if I recall. CNC. I don't use this machine anymore because I have a McClean Anderson Super Hornet Filament Winder in my new shop. That uses motion files which I cannot explain how it works. That uses Flexwind. It's much more precise but it works the same way.

@@GreggCesaroni Ah ok! About how much did your new machine cost?

@@enternal_sly5443 I don’t have the exact answer to that but quite a lot of money lol. Well worth the investment though. It gets to the point where it’s how good do you want your part, how consistent do you want your machine to run.

@@enternal_sly5443 I’m not saying what I started with is horrible by any means. It’s a great way to start and understand how to program a filament winder. Because going from Cadfil + Mach 3 to SimWind + FlexWind, it was easy. The older machine just required a bit more in depth tweaking. My experience with Cadfil has always been great and I still recommend it if you are building your own filament winder. Andrew will get you set up with everything you need. When it comes to technical parts, my old machine just couldn’t do it. The software on the other hand could.

@@GreggCesaroni Cool! What was your old machine? I have been wanting to get a filament winder. I was able to get an Xwinder for my university's rocketry club, but that thing is clanky and hard to get good parts made. I want one that is fairly consistent at a decent price.

It shouldn't be difficult but it depends on your machine's capabilities. Mainly it would be a non-linear wind. That to me separates okay machines to great ones.

@@GreggCesaroni how much tension is there on the fibers when winding?

@@FirstLast-tx3yj A fair amount. I can't say the exact number. For that one I actually don't remember

@@GreggCesaroni so is the tension adjustable? What are the minimum and maximum values?

@@FirstLast-tx3yj yes they are adjustable. Even while the program is running. Usually it’s measured by load cells and the controller will try to maintain actual value to the specified value. The actual maximum all depends on how much the payout head can take. Divide that by however many tows you are running. Every machine I’ve used with the exception of one goes up to 20 pounds per tow. So 0-20. The one you see in that video can. But it doesn’t like it. The head was optimized for a number less which I can’t say in case they are using that currently. Most of the time you don’t go that crazy. It’s usually what ever gets the fibers to spread the best.

Sunil .B cut it off. Remove mandrel from machine, pull domes off