Hi there🖐I think its one of those areas that we are gong to start seeing more robust details on as we move our buildings thermal efficiency's forward🤔Thanks for your comments and for watching🤩Cheers Del
The standard way of welding that plate on is terrible for thermal bridging. What I did with my 6m opening was a steel goalpost with a separate galvanised lintel for the outer leaf. The two were separated by a 100mm "cavity" . I used compacfoam in the cavity all the way around ie. in the header and reveals. I lined the steel goalpost with timber (4 by 2), and the steel had been designed to take this into account. Then I used PIR internally around the head and reveals. The sliding door fitters fixed directly into the compacfoam. The result works well but it needed a bit of thinking ahead!
Hi there🖐Your comment perfectly explains how the issues of thermal bridging can be virtually eradicated in with these large openings, BUT, as you say, it takes a degree of planning and financial commitment that most do not want to put themselves to🤔Great comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter You are right. It was fine in my case as I wanted to demonstrate a better way, I did the work myself with no time pressure and it was my own place. Unless it’s a high end build there is no way it would make sense for the average builder as no one would pay the money for the marginal gains. BTW, I like your clever bit simple solution!
I think it will definitely add a reasonable amount of protection from the issues around cold bridging, and certainly better than what most people do, which is just stick plasterboard to the steel😬Thanks for your comment and for watching😎Cheers Del
Eyup Del. I've got a meeting tomorrow morning with an architect about putting in a steel beam to create a very wide window in my new country crib. I was planning to ask some things about it including cold bridging so this video is bang on for me fella! I'll peruse the comments for wisdom. Cheers! Dave
That's great timing then Dave👍and my Building Control Officer knew very little about how to insulate beams like these😬This is definitely better than what's usually done, which is nothing😵Thanks for watching🤩
We used to have this problem about 10 years ago when big openings like this were starting to become popular we found a solution that seems to eliminate thus but it does involve being a bit inventive and include the structural engineer without going on too much it involves stepping your reveals on the inner leave similar to how the original box sash windows were done to accommodate the weights this then allows to get more pir insulation and we use ply aswell before plasterboard as you know timber takes longer to absorb the cold. We effectively make our own cavity closers which is great for fixing where we now have big cavities. Also on the head detail it can be great if you want to integrate any blinds or curtain runners etc. It does require a bit of forward thinking but works well and of course the client might need deep pockets 😂 Sorry for waffling a bit I'm currently lying on a hospital bed on morphine after a back operation but thought it might offer a bit of help 👍
@@hn9598 Morphine😵Hope its doing its job and you're not too uncomfortable🤞Great comment and solution to this problem, but like you say, everyone's got to be on board with a solution like that🤔Take it easy👍Cheers Del
Hi Del, good solution to the problem - i did something similar myself a while back. Im sure you know already but you can actually plaster straight over that type of backer board so no need for the extra layer of plasterboard unless you need the build-up to keep the reveal even all the way around the bifolds. Keep up the great videos.
Do you know what Pete🤔I was actually going to ask the plasterer if he could skim straight onto this board, and you've answered my question🤗I could actually now just fix/stick another layer of this board on and the reveals will be spot on plus I'll have 20mm of insulation instead of 10mm👊Thank you bud😎Cheers
Great to see you back . More please. You can get thermal backed plasterboard and cement sheet or aquapanel for outside but does the job. Also use use a self adhesive tape for between window head and beam that expanses to create thermal break .TAKE CARE. GET WELL SOON.
Hi Tim🖐I have seen the tape you talk of, and its very good stuff👊As the next best thing, I left about an 8mm gap and filled it with expanding foam👍 Thanks for watching bud🤗Cheers Del
Really helpful thanks I’m going to use the backer board solution for the lintel in my garage. I’ve had a new door fitted and this will tidy it up nicely .
Hi Steve🖐hope you are well bud🤞I know you guys have seen all sorts of horrors with sweating and rusty steels, and I'm sure cold bridging plays its part in there somewhere🤔See you soon😉Cheers
Hi Phillip🖐There have been some seriously cold days since this whole job has been finished, and there has been no condensation issues at the this beam, whatsoever👊Cheers Del
Good solution for when 20mm celotex or thermal board won’t fit. I also hate the fact that thermal board are a pain if you only want a tiny bit. Those sts boards you are using a small enough to have on the job, great idea!
Hey there🖐Yes, you're right about these STS boards, although they are a little expensive from Wickes😬but I guess that's the price you pay for convenience🤔Thanks for your comment🤩Cheers Del
Most of the American Framing vids I watch here on CZcams, they hardly ever use steel beams, everything is done with Glum beams, for the life of me I don't know why we don't use more Glum here in the UK, I've used them on a handful of occasions and they are just a great alternative to the whacking great steels we constantly get spec'd!
Hi Rob🖐I guess that's because the way we build is fundamentally different to the guys in the US, and you're right though, some of the steels we put in now are crazy big😵Thanks for your comment🤩Cheers Del
good idea del. have to remember that one. velux window openings good too. often see them just formed as a box rather than that way. thats the way the instructions actually state to do it also isnt it? good to see a vid from you mate its been a little while.
Hi Paul🖐hope you are well bud🤞The insulation and air sealing of Velux windows is/has also changed, and I'm planning a quick video explaining this👍Cheers fella
@@thetallcarpenter I called up recently to a merchant’s in Gateshead as there was a velux day. But when I got there the heavens opened and the lads packed up 😂😂 so be a good video to watch as I might have a velux replacement job in the pipeline so be a good video to watch mate
Fantastic idea! I would argue 2 layers is 1 hour fire break too. That stuff can be used outside too which would be good to insulate beam from outside. 👍🏽
@@thetallcarpenter Interesting point about insulating the beam from the outside as well. I was thinking of doing that on my DIY garden room. I have loads of small offcuts of 100mm and 25mm PIR from when I did the insulated base and the warm roof. I didn't know if it was a sensible/overkill thing to do but I think I will certainly do it now before I fit the soffits. Thanks for this video - it's been VERY helpful.
I like it I will try it on our next job. One thing I do to mitigate it is to get my steel plate set back 40mm from the face brickwork and get my bricks pistoled. So the plate sits up and back. This means the window normally covers the plate on the outside too.
Hi there🖐I get what you're saying about the benefits of setting the steel back from the outside face work, its just that the structural engineers always seem to the bottom steel plate to go to only 10mm back from the face work🤔 Thanks for your comment bud🤩Cheers Del
Great idea , tile backer of that type can be purchased in various thicknesses from tile suppliers ,which may be useful in different scenarios , also a foil backed plasterboard may be useful also
I put two 8x4 girders in so the cavity isn't bridged.. i don't see why engineers want big wide girders with a big ignorant plate welded on to get the width it's harder to fit aswell. Its madness... and i stick 25mm warm board around them anyway
Hi there🖐I agree with you in most cases, but the wide bottom plate is used when there is either external face brick work, or in this instance, a roof pitched over it👍 As you suggest, I think we will start to see accommodations for at least 25mm PIR under these beams in a similar way to what are seeing in Velux window reveals🤔Thanks for your comment🤩Cheers Del
@thetallcarpenter we don't get much brickwork in Ireland... so I suppose I've never had to do it that way. I put the 25mm warm board around all my reveals.. it 3/8th slab on pir.. and I screw a jay bead around it to keep all reveals nice and straight and same gap and foam them with fire foam so it won't bulge it
Excellent idea. I have Catnic style lintel insulated inside but still have a steel plate running through the bottom. What I would like to know, what happens at the bottom of the the door frame? In the cavity between the internal floor and the outside brickwork below damp course. Great vid I will try it. Cheers.
Hi Christopher🖐 There is a 25mm PIR insulation upstand around all the external walls and doors that is put in to the height of the floor before it is screeded 👍Cheers Del
I heard when applying adhesive to the back of the board, if you do it in rings/circles rather then a zigzag it creates a better suction and holds better. I dont know how true or if its even necessary but i can see the logic behind it. Great video btw, Ive been trying to learn more about cold bridging around reveals
Hi there🖐The logic is that as a ring of adhesive is 'squashed', it creates a vacuum pulling the 2 bonding surfaces together🤔In reality, any vacuum created will just draw in the adhesive due to its viscosity🙃Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
I liked this, clever stuff using bathroom board for sure, normally you'd hope to use insulated plasterboard board, but it's chunky and is too thick to mechanical fix nicely. Fair play mate 👍
Hi there🖐I agree that 38mm insulated plasterboard would be best here, but as you say, it's very thick and can overpower the frame reveal at the head🤔Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter No worries mate and completely agree (eek, a CZcams commenting agreeing!). Like you say, anything to keep the frame reveal even and consistent is helpful. I'm guessing you work in the South East may be? Cheers, Chris
Hi Del, I think it’s an imaginative solution to the problem. I know there are now specific products for insulating steel beams (I think they are vermiculite based if memory serves) but can’t see them doing a better job and they’ll certainly be more expensive.
Hi Darren🖐There doesn't seem to be a commonly used method/system for this, and even my Building Control Officer said he wasnt aware of any 'accepted' methods of preventing the issues caused with these type of beams😵Thanks for watching bud😎Cheers
Hi Darren🖐There doesn't seem to be a commonly used method/system for this, and even my Building Control Officer said he wasnt aware of any 'accepted' methods of preventing the issues caused with these type of beams😵Thanks for watching bud😎Cheers
Hi Andrew🖐YES, I think 25mm insulated plasterboard would be the BEST solution for this, just as long as you've got enough of the door/window frame to accommodate it👍I know the adhesive/sealant I used in the video sticks to PIR board😎Cheers Del
Hi Gary🖐I take it that's on older jobs/renovations as all new work should have insulated cavity closures in the reveals👍Its great for that if so🤩Cheers Del
I hear what you're saying bud👍but in this instance, the roof wouldn't have been able to come low enough if there was the upstand of an 'L' shaped beam welded on a further 100mm out😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Hi BS🖐I'm actually fixing batten to the external blocks to take feather board, but as you say, I might be able to sneak a bit of this board in there somewhere🤩Cheers Del
Hi there TCB🖐You're absolutely right, and its best to try a do as much as you can, when you can, to avoid future problems👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi Mickey🖐The batten I fixed to the upright noggins is the right thickness to suit the depth of the dot and dab so it all runs in the same line👍I've got a video coming soon on it👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers
Great ideal iv had my extension and tomorrow will be doing same thing for the beam, also I've had the inspector out his telling me i need to put a catnic above existing window where a door has been added its got L shaped beam which i through is fine become there is no cavity on the existing side should he be looking at this became the inspection is for the extension he shouldn't be looking at existing
Hi there🖐Yeah, I'm not sure why the Inspector is asking you about doing work that's not part of your extension🤔All the best and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi there🖐 It may be tricky to add a dpm under the beam, as in my experience, not much sticks to it🤔The tile backer is non vapour permeable, so should keep moist air from getting to the beam anyway👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thank you for the reply! Could the dpm not be tucked into the void in the rsj and then insert the noggins for the plasterboard? That should hold the dpm secure.
That's a great idea! Perhaps use aluminium foil tape over the butt joints? If you don't mind me asking, what did you use to fix the bifold frame to the rsj?
Hi there🖐I'm actually going to use foil backed plasterboard as well, but aluminium foil wouldn't hurt👍The head is fixed to the bottom of the steel with 5x50 screws through a 4.5mm hole💪Cheers Del
I use a company called Fixfast that do self drilling screws for 12mm steel, but you can also pick them up from Toolstation and screw fix just ask for heavy duty self drilling screws.
Nice to see you back Del. Cold bridging is a bloody pain, that’s a great solution not sure on the thermal value but it’s better then nothing I suppose. I wonder how big a gluelam would need to be instead of a steel which would alleviate that problem, just a thought.
@@denty32 Hi Mark🖐I needed the rafter feet to come down low enough over this beam so I could keep the soffit and fascia reasonably low, so a might have been to high🤔Thanks for watching bud and your comment😎
Nice job on the lining Del but the major problem with that beam is it is external and not hot galvanised coated. The client should have used an engineer to correctly specify that UC, some BCO's will sign anything off.
Hi kevcos🖐This was all designed by the structural engineer and I don't think I've ever fitted/worked on beams like this that have been hot dipped galvanised🤔Do you think that this type of beam will suffer with corrosion? Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Yes definitely. As sure as eggs are eggs, steel exposed to the elements will begin to corrode immediately. Any externally exposed structural steel should be spec'd to be hot galvo dipped.
@kevocos I hear you, and fortunately the outer edge of the beam in this instance is tucked well under the 200mm soffit and is also being feather boarded👍so won't get any weather on it🤞
@@thetallcarpenter Yeah, it will be fine. And given the minor loads I would imagine even if there was any corrosion it will be minimal and inconsequential in the grand scheme of things. Keep up the good work mate!
@@kevocoswhen I built our extension the designer specified dipping the exposed ends! Of course I had them hot dipped completely, around 1.7 tonnes including posts.
Hi Gavin🖐I'm not sure trickle vents help with this kind of issue as they cant move that great a volume of air🤔I worked on a job where they had terrible sweating/damp at the beam/door frame joint, and the trickle vents didn't help😵Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I've given thought to this problem in the past Del and I have thought about the insulated p/d but the problem being is getting it to say up and as always the frame profile is never wide enough. Do like your idea
@@thetallcarpenter that's why I do be amazed you and others make time to do these videos , I am mad busy and not a hope could I do one , I wouldn't have the know how anyway , but they are much appreciated Del
We shouldn't be designing this stuff Dell, Architects should specify every movement but as we know they charge a lot of money for nothing and leave it to us, so when a condensation problem occurs who takes the blame?
Here is my issue with this steel beams. Why put insolation on the inside of the steel beam? Isnt that gonna prevent the beam from warming itself from the inside temp of the house? If metal is warm there won't be condensation on it ?!? Protecting it from outside temp only makes more sense ?!
You're absolutely right bud, and the issue is exactly HOW to insulate a beam like this from the outside🤔 I real terms, the only part of this beam that is uninsulated is the outer 80mm of the bottom plate that is under the external block skin above it. (there is 100mm PIR insulation directly behind this block work carrying on up to the insulation between the rafters). I think the thermal transfer along this section will be minimal and hoping that what I've done inside will help prevent any condensation🤞Great comment and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
You’re the first person on CZcams that made a video on RSJ thermal bridging, well done sir
Hi there🖐I think its one of those areas that we are gong to start seeing more robust details on as we move our buildings thermal efficiency's forward🤔Thanks for your comments and for watching🤩Cheers Del
The standard way of welding that plate on is terrible for thermal bridging. What I did with my 6m opening was a steel goalpost with a separate galvanised lintel for the outer leaf. The two were separated by a 100mm "cavity" . I used compacfoam in the cavity all the way around ie. in the header and reveals. I lined the steel goalpost with timber (4 by 2), and the steel had been designed to take this into account. Then I used PIR internally around the head and reveals. The sliding door fitters fixed directly into the compacfoam. The result works well but it needed a bit of thinking ahead!
Hi there🖐Your comment perfectly explains how the issues of thermal bridging can be virtually eradicated in with these large openings, BUT, as you say, it takes a degree of planning and financial commitment that most do not want to put themselves to🤔Great comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter You are right. It was fine in my case as I wanted to demonstrate a better way, I did the work myself with no time pressure and it was my own place. Unless it’s a high end build there is no way it would make sense for the average builder as no one would pay the money for the marginal gains. BTW, I like your clever bit simple solution!
Great idea. I’ve been staring at our exposed steel beams for months trying to think of a so,Union and this will be just the ticket! Thanks for sharing
I think it will definitely add a reasonable amount of protection from the issues around cold bridging, and certainly better than what most people do, which is just stick plasterboard to the steel😬Thanks for your comment and for watching😎Cheers Del
Short and sweet - videos like this which tackle a specific problem are great.
Hi there🖐Appreciate your comment bud and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Great to see you back Del , yep s real problem around doors and windows, cheers mate ☘️🇮🇪👍😁👋
Hi John🖐Always great to have you watching bud🤩Cheers
Eyup Del. I've got a meeting tomorrow morning with an architect about putting in a steel beam to create a very wide window in my new country crib. I was planning to ask some things about it including cold bridging so this video is bang on for me fella! I'll peruse the comments for wisdom. Cheers! Dave
That's great timing then Dave👍and my Building Control Officer knew very little about how to insulate beams like these😬This is definitely better than what's usually done, which is nothing😵Thanks for watching🤩
We used to have this problem about 10 years ago when big openings like this were starting to become popular we found a solution that seems to eliminate thus but it does involve being a bit inventive and include the structural engineer without going on too much it involves stepping your reveals on the inner leave similar to how the original box sash windows were done to accommodate the weights this then allows to get more pir insulation and we use ply aswell before plasterboard as you know timber takes longer to absorb the cold. We effectively make our own cavity closers which is great for fixing where we now have big cavities. Also on the head detail it can be great if you want to integrate any blinds or curtain runners etc. It does require a bit of forward thinking but works well and of course the client might need deep pockets 😂
Sorry for waffling a bit I'm currently lying on a hospital bed on morphine after a back operation but thought it might offer a bit of help 👍
@@hn9598 Morphine😵Hope its doing its job and you're not too uncomfortable🤞Great comment and solution to this problem, but like you say, everyone's got to be on board with a solution like that🤔Take it easy👍Cheers Del
Hi Del, good solution to the problem - i did something similar myself a while back. Im sure you know already but you can actually plaster straight over that type of backer board so no need for the extra layer of plasterboard unless you need the build-up to keep the reveal even all the way around the bifolds. Keep up the great videos.
Do you know what Pete🤔I was actually going to ask the plasterer if he could skim straight onto this board, and you've answered my question🤗I could actually now just fix/stick another layer of this board on and the reveals will be spot on plus I'll have 20mm of insulation instead of 10mm👊Thank you bud😎Cheers
The plaster board is most probably required for fire protection of the beam.
Great attention to detail Del. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure Martin🤩Cheers Del
A very sensible method to try and prevent a potential problem. Cheers. Jim
Thanks for your comment Jim🤩and it's got to make some difference even if only a little🤔Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Fantastic idea Del
You know I’ve always wanted to know about that thermal bridging work, thank you for that big man, another well education video 🔥👍🤜
Hope you are well Charranjit🤞and thanks for watching 😎
Nice Job Del Great way of over coming a common problem.
I'm sure it will help Peter👍Thanks for watching bud 😎 Cheers
Nice to see you del ..that Looks a great idea on that steel beam
👍👍👍👍
Brilliant soloution, thankyou for taking the time to show us.
My pleasure Roland🤩Thanks you for taking the time to watch😎Cheers Del
Great to see you back Del
Cheers Gary🤗Thanks for watching bud👍
Great to see you back . More please. You can get thermal backed plasterboard and cement sheet or aquapanel for outside but does the job. Also use use a self adhesive tape for between window head and beam that expanses to create thermal break .TAKE CARE. GET WELL SOON.
Hi Tim🖐I have seen the tape you talk of, and its very good stuff👊As the next best thing, I left about an 8mm gap and filled it with expanding foam👍 Thanks for watching bud🤗Cheers Del
Great job Del ... perfect solution imo .... hope you feel better soon... I had a similar fall recently from the same type of ladder
Hi Del🖐It was such a silly fall bud, and I just needed to slow down a bit😵💫Cheers Del
I was wondering where you’d gon Del. Glad ya back and hope ya ribs feel better soon
Ey up fella🤗Just been super busy bud😵Thanks for your kind comment😍Cheers
Going to do this for my client
Hi there👍It has 100% worked on this job, with no sweating around the reveal, even on the coldest winter day😎Cheers Del
Hi Del, brilliant idea thanks for sharing
Hi Pat🖐Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Really helpful thanks I’m going to use the backer board solution for the lintel in my garage. I’ve had a new door fitted and this will tidy it up nicely .
That's awesome Darren🤩Get some stuck up there bud👊Cheers Del
I have always used insulated plasterboard but your way is much better thanks for posting the video
Hi there🖐Its certainly less bulky that insulated plasterboard, but obviously not as efficient thermally👍Cheers Del
Excellent idea Del . The big hole big steel is so common 🤙🏾🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
Hi Steve🖐hope you are well bud🤞I know you guys have seen all sorts of horrors with sweating and rusty steels, and I'm sure cold bridging plays its part in there somewhere🤔See you soon😉Cheers
Great video Del !!
Thanks for watching Michael 😎
good to see you back del nice video
Cheers Neil👍Its been a busy summer😵Thanks for your comment bud😎Cheers
Nice tip Del !
Cheers Kevin😎Thanks for watching bud
Sounds like a horserace in the background 😂
You get first prize fella💰There's a racecourse near me and when the wind is in the right direction, the sound really carries🙉Cheers Del
Another great video mate, never thought of using that stuff, I normally use a thin foil insulation but I won’t be anymore 👍
Hi there🖐Its really useful stuff and I've used up the sides of dorma windows as well👍All the best bud😎Cheers del
VERY useful tip/solution. I have a couple of places in my own house where I could implement this "fix" 👍
Hi Brendan🖐It's got to be an improvement over nothing bud😉Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Excellent video. I have the same problem.
Hi Phillip🖐There have been some seriously cold days since this whole job has been finished, and there has been no condensation issues at the this beam, whatsoever👊Cheers Del
Great out the box thinking.
Cheers Elliot👍I have my moments🤩Cheers Del
Good solution for when 20mm celotex or thermal board won’t fit. I also hate the fact that thermal board are a pain if you only want a tiny bit. Those sts boards you are using a small enough to have on the job, great idea!
Hey there🖐Yes, you're right about these STS boards, although they are a little expensive from Wickes😬but I guess that's the price you pay for convenience🤔Thanks for your comment🤩Cheers Del
Used this stuff myself recently under a Belfast sink to give added protection to the kitchen carcass it was sitting on.
Hi there🖐When you actually look at it, you can see how it could be used for all sorts of things👊Thanks for your comment🤩Cheers Del
Glad Your Back 😃😃😃
Glad to be back Gareth🤩Cheers bud
Great idea pal👍
Cheers Morgan 😎 Thanks for watching
Great video. I'm hoping to have some byfold doors fitted on an extension I'm planning, so will do the same. Thanks.
It's got help Karma🤩Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
Most of the American Framing vids I watch here on CZcams, they hardly ever use steel beams, everything is done with Glum beams, for the life of me I don't know why we don't use more Glum here in the UK, I've used them on a handful of occasions and they are just a great alternative to the whacking great steels we constantly get spec'd!
Hi Rob🖐I guess that's because the way we build is fundamentally different to the guys in the US, and you're right though, some of the steels we put in now are crazy big😵Thanks for your comment🤩Cheers Del
Nice to see you back again Del and your idea certainly seems to be popular. Did you have time to get a bet on while sorting this out. 😎😎
Hi Kevin🖐No betting for me mate, as I always seem to lose😬Thanks, as always, for watching bud🤗Cheers
Cheers helpful dc
Just an update on this Dave. During the last cold snap of up to -6c there was NO condensation at the door frame head👍
good idea del. have to remember that one. velux window openings good too. often see them just formed as a box rather than that way. thats the way the instructions actually state to do it also isnt it? good to see a vid from you mate its been a little while.
Hi Paul🖐hope you are well bud🤞The insulation and air sealing of Velux windows is/has also changed, and I'm planning a quick video explaining this👍Cheers fella
@@thetallcarpenter I called up recently to a merchant’s in Gateshead as there was a velux day. But when I got there the heavens opened and the lads packed up 😂😂 so be a good video to watch as I might have a velux replacement job in the pipeline so be a good video to watch mate
Fantastic idea! I would argue 2 layers is 1 hour fire break too. That stuff can be used outside too which would be good to insulate beam from outside. 👍🏽
Hi Henry🖐You're probably right bud, and the BCO wants pink plasterboard on there as well🤔Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
What would you insulate the beam from the outside for?
@@BcMzRusT Insulating the beam from the outside would be best as it stops any of it getting cold👍
In the ideal situation insulation is on the outside which reduces and temp differential and reduces risk of condensation. @@BcMzRusT
@@thetallcarpenter Interesting point about insulating the beam from the outside as well. I was thinking of doing that on my DIY garden room. I have loads of small offcuts of 100mm and 25mm PIR from when I did the insulated base and the warm roof. I didn't know if it was a sensible/overkill thing to do but I think I will certainly do it now before I fit the soffits.
Thanks for this video - it's been VERY helpful.
I like it I will try it on our next job. One thing I do to mitigate it is to get my steel plate set back 40mm from the face brickwork and get my bricks pistoled. So the plate sits up and back.
This means the window normally covers the plate on the outside too.
Hi there🖐I get what you're saying about the benefits of setting the steel back from the outside face work, its just that the structural engineers always seem to the bottom steel plate to go to only 10mm back from the face work🤔 Thanks for your comment bud🤩Cheers Del
👍👍👍.Thanks Del
My pleasure🤩Thanks for watching
Great idea , tile backer of that type can be purchased in various thicknesses from tile suppliers ,which may be useful in different scenarios , also a foil backed plasterboard may be useful also
You're quite right Chris👊and foil backed plasterboard would stick nicely to this stuff👍Cheers Del
I put two 8x4 girders in so the cavity isn't bridged.. i don't see why engineers want big wide girders with a big ignorant plate welded on to get the width it's harder to fit aswell. Its madness... and i stick 25mm warm board around them anyway
Hi there🖐I agree with you in most cases, but the wide bottom plate is used when there is either external face brick work, or in this instance, a roof pitched over it👍 As you suggest, I think we will start to see accommodations for at least 25mm PIR under these beams in a similar way to what are seeing in Velux window reveals🤔Thanks for your comment🤩Cheers Del
@thetallcarpenter we don't get much brickwork in Ireland... so I suppose I've never had to do it that way. I put the 25mm warm board around all my reveals.. it 3/8th slab on pir.. and I screw a jay bead around it to keep all reveals nice and straight and same gap and foam them with fire foam so it won't bulge it
Outstanding T.C, another grear fix. Personally i'd use a gluelam beam, lighter, warmer and easier to fix to, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
Hi TN🖐hope you're well bud🤞I know what you're saying about a Glulam beam👊Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Morning T.C, you probably didn't have creative control on that job. That's similar to myself from time to time.
@@TheToolnut I never seem to have control of my jobs TN😵💫
Nice 👍
Cheers Silver Fox😎
Tidy as always Del👍
Cheers Adrian🤩
Excellent idea. I have Catnic style lintel insulated inside but still have a steel plate running through the bottom. What I would like to know, what happens at the bottom of the the door frame? In the cavity between the internal floor and the outside brickwork below damp course. Great vid I will try it. Cheers.
Hi Christopher🖐 There is a 25mm PIR insulation upstand around all the external walls and doors that is put in to the height of the floor before it is screeded 👍Cheers Del
I use 10mm insulation foam with adhesive sticky on one side works a treat
Sounds great bud👍and will do the trick👊Cheers Del
Nice and neat Del..
jumping off the ladder, 😳. I’ll do the stunt man stuff 🤣
👊🏻
I'm waiting till the bruising comes out Dan, to see if I can 'Top Trump' yours😜Cheers fella
@@thetallcarpenter 😂💪🏻🤩
I heard when applying adhesive to the back of the board, if you do it in rings/circles rather then a zigzag it creates a better suction and holds better. I dont know how true or if its even necessary but i can see the logic behind it. Great video btw, Ive been trying to learn more about cold bridging around reveals
Hi there🖐The logic is that as a ring of adhesive is 'squashed', it creates a vacuum pulling the 2 bonding surfaces together🤔In reality, any vacuum created will just draw in the adhesive due to its viscosity🙃Thanks for your comment and for watching 😎 Cheers Del
That's right, no air inside - no condensation.
I’ve popped a little PU glue between the backer board butt joints to help too.
That reminds me Andrew🤔must get some PU glue to have on the van😁Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
I liked this, clever stuff using bathroom board for sure, normally you'd hope to use insulated plasterboard board, but it's chunky and is too thick to mechanical fix nicely. Fair play mate 👍
Hi there🖐I agree that 38mm insulated plasterboard would be best here, but as you say, it's very thick and can overpower the frame reveal at the head🤔Thanks for watching and your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter No worries mate and completely agree (eek, a CZcams commenting agreeing!). Like you say, anything to keep the frame reveal even and consistent is helpful. I'm guessing you work in the South East may be? Cheers, Chris
I'm based North of Cambridge👍
@@thetallcarpenter Ah, I was close - right country 🙂
Hi Del, I think it’s an imaginative solution to the problem. I know there are now specific products for insulating steel beams (I think they are vermiculite based if memory serves) but can’t see them doing a better job and they’ll certainly be more expensive.
Hi Darren🖐There doesn't seem to be a commonly used method/system for this, and even my Building Control Officer said he wasnt aware of any 'accepted' methods of preventing the issues caused with these type of beams😵Thanks for watching bud😎Cheers
Hi Darren🖐There doesn't seem to be a commonly used method/system for this, and even my Building Control Officer said he wasnt aware of any 'accepted' methods of preventing the issues caused with these type of beams😵Thanks for watching bud😎Cheers
Brilliant solution Del. Good to see you back
@@attlee1945 Cheers Steve🤩
Nice idea, like it. Do you think 25mm PIR Pre-Bonded with plasterboard would work?
Hi Andrew🖐YES, I think 25mm insulated plasterboard would be the BEST solution for this, just as long as you've got enough of the door/window frame to accommodate it👍I know the adhesive/sealant I used in the video sticks to PIR board😎Cheers Del
Game changer. I might have to steal that one from you.
Its gotta be better than nothing Ryan🤔Cheers Del
I’ve seen people using that board round window reveals now because insulated plasterboard is too thick .
Hi Gary🖐I take it that's on older jobs/renovations as all new work should have insulated cavity closures in the reveals👍Its great for that if so🤩Cheers Del
Good stuff. Do you have any tips on how to stop thermal bridging when framing roof lights? Thx
Hi there🖐 The only real way is to line the 'lighting tunnel' with a minimum of 25mm Celotex👍Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenterThx Del, I'll try and work that into my design.
Bottom plates spanning the cavity are a no no. Join the outer L shape using welded fillets .
I hear what you're saying bud👍but in this instance, the roof wouldn't have been able to come low enough if there was the upstand of an 'L' shaped beam welded on a further 100mm out😬Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
You could fix the external version of this on the outer steel and blockwork and then render over it no probs.
Hi BS🖐I'm actually fixing batten to the external blocks to take feather board, but as you say, I might be able to sneak a bit of this board in there somewhere🤩Cheers Del
Yes that certainly cant be a disadvantage so why not . All helps reduce issues as theres just to many to worry about so resolve as you go .
Hi there TCB🖐You're absolutely right, and its best to try a do as much as you can, when you can, to avoid future problems👍Thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Hi Del, Do you batten the walls either side of the doors to bring it inline with the top battens or dot and dab
Hi Mickey🖐The batten I fixed to the upright noggins is the right thickness to suit the depth of the dot and dab so it all runs in the same line👍I've got a video coming soon on it👊Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers
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Cheers Paddy🤩
Great ideal iv had my extension and tomorrow will be doing same thing for the beam, also I've had the inspector out his telling me i need to put a catnic above existing window where a door has been added its got L shaped beam which i through is fine become there is no cavity on the existing side should he be looking at this became the inspection is for the extension he shouldn't be looking at existing
Hi there🖐Yeah, I'm not sure why the Inspector is asking you about doing work that's not part of your extension🤔All the best and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
Good solution! Would some dpm under the beam help eliminate moisture transfer?
Hi there🖐 It may be tricky to add a dpm under the beam, as in my experience, not much sticks to it🤔The tile backer is non vapour permeable, so should keep moist air from getting to the beam anyway👍Thanks for watching 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter thank you for the reply! Could the dpm not be tucked into the void in the rsj and then insert the noggins for the plasterboard? That should hold the dpm secure.
@@user-nz7ee3fi7o It would hold it on the inner edge, but you need to stick it somehow to the edge that the door is fixed to🤔
That's a great idea! Perhaps use aluminium foil tape over the butt joints? If you don't mind me asking, what did you use to fix the bifold frame to the rsj?
Hi there🖐I'm actually going to use foil backed plasterboard as well, but aluminium foil wouldn't hurt👍The head is fixed to the bottom of the steel with 5x50 screws through a 4.5mm hole💪Cheers Del
I use a company called Fixfast that do self drilling screws for 12mm steel, but you can also pick them up from Toolstation and screw fix just ask for heavy duty self drilling screws.
Nice to see you back Del.
Cold bridging is a bloody pain, that’s a great solution not sure on the thermal value but it’s better then nothing I suppose.
I wonder how big a gluelam would need to be instead of a steel which would alleviate that problem, just a thought.
@@denty32 Hi Mark🖐I needed the rafter feet to come down low enough over this beam so I could keep the soffit and fascia reasonably low, so a might have been to high🤔Thanks for watching bud and your comment😎
@@denty32 Good to know Mark😎Cheers
🤘😎🤘
Hi Wayne🤗
Nice job on the lining Del but the major problem with that beam is it is external and not hot galvanised coated.
The client should have used an engineer to correctly specify that UC, some BCO's will sign anything off.
Hi kevcos🖐This was all designed by the structural engineer and I don't think I've ever fitted/worked on beams like this that have been hot dipped galvanised🤔Do you think that this type of beam will suffer with corrosion? Thanks for your comment 😎 Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter Yes definitely. As sure as eggs are eggs, steel exposed to the elements will begin to corrode immediately. Any externally exposed structural steel should be spec'd to be hot galvo dipped.
@kevocos I hear you, and fortunately the outer edge of the beam in this instance is tucked well under the 200mm soffit and is also being feather boarded👍so won't get any weather on it🤞
@@thetallcarpenter Yeah, it will be fine.
And given the minor loads I would imagine even if there was any corrosion it will be minimal and inconsequential in the grand scheme of things.
Keep up the good work mate!
@@kevocoswhen I built our extension the designer specified dipping the exposed ends! Of course I had them hot dipped completely, around 1.7 tonnes including posts.
👌👍👏👏👏👏
Thanks for watching bud😎
As per....👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks Alistair 😎
No trickle vents I noticed. Would this not help
Hi Gavin🖐I'm not sure trickle vents help with this kind of issue as they cant move that great a volume of air🤔I worked on a job where they had terrible sweating/damp at the beam/door frame joint, and the trickle vents didn't help😵Thanks for your comment😎Cheers Del
@@thetallcarpenter I've given thought to this problem in the past Del and I have thought about the insulated p/d but the problem being is getting it to say up and as always the frame profile is never wide enough. Do like your idea
I was wondering where you got to Del
I've been super busy Darren😵and not able to video any of the work I've been doing😢Thanks for watching mate😎Cheers
@@thetallcarpenter that's why I do be amazed you and others make time to do these videos , I am mad busy and not a hope could I do one , I wouldn't have the know how anyway , but they are much appreciated Del
We shouldn't be designing this stuff Dell, Architects should specify every movement but as we know they charge a lot of money for nothing and leave it to us, so when a condensation problem occurs who takes the blame?
@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 It's almost like you're speaking from experience Andy😆Hope you're well mate and thanks for watching 😎
@@thetallcarpenter 👍
Here is my issue with this steel beams. Why put insolation on the inside of the steel beam? Isnt that gonna prevent the beam from warming itself from the inside temp of the house? If metal is warm there won't be condensation on it ?!? Protecting it from outside temp only makes more sense ?!
You're absolutely right bud, and the issue is exactly HOW to insulate a beam like this from the outside🤔 I real terms, the only part of this beam that is uninsulated is the outer 80mm of the bottom plate that is under the external block skin above it. (there is 100mm PIR insulation directly behind this block work carrying on up to the insulation between the rafters). I think the thermal transfer along this section will be minimal and hoping that what I've done inside will help prevent any condensation🤞Great comment and thanks for watching😎Cheers Del
👍 - who won the horse race 😂
The Bookies Adrian🤪
👊🫡
Thanks for watching Richard 😎 Cheers