CV axles, front differential seals and diff oil replaced on land cruiser 100 LX470
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- čas přidán 17. 12. 2019
- A simple and short video on how I replaced the leaky cv axle, differential seal, and put in new gear oil in my 1999 Toyota Landcruiser
/ aka_chowcares
Camera equipment used in this video:
DJI Pocket 2: amzn.to/2KZH5XG
GoPro HERO9 Black: amzn.to/3rS8sDI
DJI Mavic Air 2 Drone Fly More Combo: amzn.to/3hJt1h6
Rode VideoMicro Compact Microphone: amzn.to/38avbmD
GoPro Suction Cup Mount: amzn.to/3ndwLbF
The Basics:
As you use your vehicle, components wear out. I recently noticed there was a small oil leak coming from the front engine area, upon further inspection, it looked like the differential seals were worn. on top of that, there was a tear in one of the CV axles. Time for new parts!
The Problem:
My 1999 Land Cruiser has almost 200k miles on the clock. Bundle that witht he 35" tires and some offroading, parts start to wear out faster than normal. All 3 items i consider wearables and is preventative maintenance. I'd rather fix it now than have it fail out on the road or trail.
Affected:
1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruisers and Lexus LX470
Solution:
Change out complete axle with refurbished one. Change out differential seal for new OEM pieces. Add new differential fluid.
Repair difficulty: 7/10
Repair time: 5 hours
Tools and Parts:
Genuine Toyota 90311-47027 Type-T Axle Shaft Oil Seal (Passenger side)
amzn.to/2HsxfrP
Mobil 1 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube LS: amzn.to/2uMODoA
New CV Axle 2007-1998 Lexus LX470, Toyota Land Cruiser, 4WD
amzn.to/2SIeZA2
Gloves: amzn.to/38psAmq
Electric impact: amzn.to/31SOUm4
Brake cleaner: amzn.to/2vxSi9O - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great videos! I just bought a 2000 LX 470 with 170k miles about a month ago and doing all the catch up work on maintenance items. I think I've watched your 3 part series on the Brake Job From Hell like 20 times already! Keep them coming!
Thanks and I will!
One more thing, instead of using a tool to push the oil seal in, the best thing is to use the old seal itself and stack it atop the new seal, and tap on top of that to slowly seat the seal in place. This works really well and prevents damage to the fragile rubber!
Thank you for these videos brother. I appreciate your effort and taking the time to show us how to work on our rigs. Knowledge is power! 🙏🏼
This is great. I use your videos as a reference. Keep up the good work. No wasted time in your videos! Straight forward and detailed. Thank you.
roncruiser thanks for the kind comments. I know I probably miss some stuff so feel free to let me know
@@chowcares I've owned an 80 series since 2004. Relatively new to the 100 series. Bought my 100 back February '19. With the help of your videos, I'm accelerating through the learning curve!
Great video. Thank you for posting.
dsndicmsa thanks! Sounds like you have a lot of work ahead of you!
Great guide. One thing: 4:34. This is a great technique for removing the CV from the diff, ONLY if you remove the calipers first! It’s so easy to break ABS & brake lines, especially ABS, while doing this!
Thanks for all the great videos! Recently purchased a 98, saving all of your videos for reference. Keep it up
WRC how are you enjoying the land cruiser? More videos coming up!!
chowcares love it, I’m addicted!
I just bought a 2000 LX470. I can now see that I need to go back and watch all his videos. Very informative!
Thank you man! You always make great videos for us, LX owners! Keep them coming.
P.S. On the same day after watching your video I was changing oil in my truck and found a similar leak from the CV boot. Good thing is, now I know how replace the seal, thanks to you!
Thanks for all the tips. I need to pull both axles and these was the guidance I needed!
Awesome, detailed video - super helpful. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Check out my other videos for more land cruiser stuff
Thanks for the tutorial, I did this yesterday. Sadly mine didn’t just pop out had to remove the spindle and everything on an LX. Did a reboot on the original axles, boy was it a mess. Went with Toyota boots for 80.00 but I only did one boot as the outer was still in great shape. Thanks for the vids and keep them coming! FYI eBay has a shift hole bezel for 45.00 OE. I saw on one of you vids you said you wanted to replace it. Thanks again.
Oem boot is pretty cheap! I wish I had kept my oem axles... oh well. Yes I’m looking for a center shift bezel thing, I’ll have to look on eBay, thanks!
Hey man our '03 LC has served us faithfully for 11 years. But at 200k miles now maintenance list is starting to grow. I've been intimidated to tackle some items but thanks to your videos I'm starting to wrench more and more. Keep them coming and thanks a ton for taking the time to make these - really invaluable!!!
Wow 11 years! With the right upkeep it should last you many many more
@@chowcares Wanted to ask, do you recommend purchasing the FSM's? I'm considering the investment - ~$150 for a used set. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting
I would add, it would have been even better to remove the caliper so you didn't strain the brake line, which is under a lot of tension in the video at different times. Likewise for the ABS sensor.
Great how-to video. Really enjoy all of them, learning about what I'm getting into.
Also respect to whoever has the Odyssey in the background on 3gTL wheels 😁👍
Purchased brand new in 2003 lol
i know Im asking the wrong place but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Rogelio Porter instablaster ;)
@Dario Idris thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Dario Idris It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
Yeah, great video. Thanks and keep up the great work. I just did mine last weekend.
One thing which I think would have been helpful to mention is how to check when the axle is engaged in the diff, so you know when to tap it in.
If you see the diff turning when you turn the axle, you know it's ready to be pushed in further. Maybe thats just me though being a novice.
That’s great advice!
Awesome job
Thanks!
Thanks for the great videos they are very helpful, would like it if you could do a video on upgrading the torsion bars if possible
Very useful video. I did mine a few months ago and one thing I would highly suggest/recommend is that the new inner CV axle seal be pushed in ~5.5mm (and measured with a caliper) as per the Toyota manual. Also, while I know it would be a bit expensive, I would have gone with the OEM CV axle. They last a lot longer. Keep them coming.
Robert V thanks for your input! Let’s see how long this one will last
What kind of caliper tool would you use?
@@Jubi229 Any caliper that has a rod depth at the end. Just get close to the edge of the hole after you insert the seal to be able to use it for measuring the depth.
Time for new sway bar bushings! Looking pretty rough
Thanks for the tutorial!
Great video. Any chance your BRAKE BOOSTER W/ACCUMULATOR PUMP go out yet? Mines just gone bad and your videos are awesome for reference
Mine did when I first got the cruiser. Unfortunately I don’t have any footage on it. From what I remember, Toyota has a rebuild kit which addresses the problem without breaking the bank. I think there’s a good write up on mud.
Thanks again helping alot . i want to se you do heater core for toyota landcruiser 100. thanks again :) :)
Luckily my heater core is still intact! Cuz I hear it’s quite difficult to get to
Hi Chow,
How many seals do I need for CV axles? Is it only one on passenger side or both sides? I am trying to find out how many I need to order. Thanks for your time.
Love the videos man, saved my ass when my efi connections burnt up. Anyways, I'm having trouble finding the part number for the driver's side oil seal. You have a link to the passenger side but I'm in need of the driver's side seal. Any clue? Again thanks for the videos. I go to yours and I believe it's called The Land cruiser project, big time and money savers
Dr. Chow, my outer boot has ripped exactly like yours im this video.
How long do you think i can drive with it?
Waiting for the part but need to drive.
Thanks!
Concerned about hangin the knuckle assembly via brake line.
On another note I love the cars in the garage’ vrooooom!
I tried to not be on the brake line, but it slipped once or twice 😑
@@chowcares
I like the bailing wire where bungee cords don’t work. Going to change the drive hubs this weekend wish me luck!
T 25 you can do it!
@@chowcares
Not without the 54mm!
Dang! Store said it was available but in reality it was not! Lol
I should have just ordered online
😫
How is that seal holding up? I am replacing mine this weekend. Plan on using the set of calipers and going in the 5.5mm as per the spec.
What kind of upper ball joint is that? I’m in the process of changing mine on our lx470
Thanks
Just tried this today, and had to remove the shock to get enough clearance to get the CV out of the differential. Did you have to remove the tie rod end link or were you able to this without doing that? Also, my CV was pretty stuck in there and I had to pry it out with a pry-bar to break it loose from the diff.
You should have just enough space to wiggle it out without needing to remove the shock. I did not remove the tierod ends. Using a pry bar to pop the axle out of the diff is sometimes necessary
We took our apart today and it looked like someone had replaced the OEM one with a duralast part. The duralast part was crap. The one you bought from Amazon, the supplier has a 1 star rating. Besides the OEM one that is way too expensive, what brand do you recommend? I need your help on this so thanks ahead of time.
Hey Chow could you go over the new axel and diff mating ?
I installed mines it does not come out at all no matter how much i yank out with my hands its clicked in for sure i drove it around and its good, just that when i go under it and i yank it has some play back and forth. Is this normal?
Are those old man emu nitrocharger shocks did they come standard or aftermarket lift?
Would highly recommend not yanking the CV axle out like that. It disconnected the inside of the diff side tulip on mine. Turned a couple hour thing into a 2 day ordeal. Theb had to wait to get a new one in the mail and do it all over again. A much safer way to do it is drive a a wedge between the edge of the CV by the diff side, being careful to not hit the dust cap, and hammering the wedge in until it pops out. You may have to tap the edge of it from the side with a pry bar and hammer to get it all the way out. Much safer way than to yank it out by the knuckle.
Really appreciate your excellent video on this to fix seal and CV boot replacement. I have a question you might be able to solve. I'm getting a clicking noise from the front, possibly in CV or steering. I have 1999 LandCruiser series 100, with just under 150,000 miles. Sometimes in starting out, but more often going over a small speed bump slowly, and it seems to have increased in past weeks or so. I see where fluid has leaked on outer steering boots, and I see the inner CV Boot seal has a bit of grease coming out on both outer boots, both sides of vehicle. Have any clues as to why I might be hearing the clicking? Hope to hear at your earliest convenience. Many thanks.
Clicking noise is usually a sign of worn cv joints. If you see grease coming out of either inner or outer boot, it’s time to replace. Steering won’t make a clicking noise
@@chowcares As suspected, thanks for your very quick response. Do these need immediate replacement or what kind of time frame am I looking at... a week... two?
aquaman vancouver depends on the severity. If it’s just light clicks when you turn full lock you have some time. If it’s clicking going straight then probably ASAP. Either way, since u figured out the cause, the sooner the better
vancouver mine is the CV and axle flange failing. The noise is very similar to a failing cv joint but it it the teeth which connect the flange and shaft. Easy to check just pop off the cap in the center, clean it up and examine the ends of the teeth. If they r still sharp then all gud but if they r rounded off like mine than it's time to check out his "brake job from hell video"
Looking to do this soon. Any issues with those CVs? They from autozone? I'm between rebuilding, or going new from OEM or Nitro.. haven't decided
Haven’t had any issues with them yet, even with the lift and no diff drop. That being said, if I still had my oem ones I’d rebuild them
Hey Chow, how do you like the OME suspension? Several people on MUD complain it’s very harsh. I like a tight ride but feel like a SUV shouldn’t ride like a drift car. What do you think?
Initially it felt “okayyyy” not great, not bad. But once I did the spc upper arms and new lower ball joints, they feel amazing. A lot of the old suspension components contribute to the harsh ride. Now my lc rides smooth and is very responsive. Hope that helps!
Hey! great job on all your dyi. Have you done adjustment or replacement on LC100 hand brake yet?
Thanks, by hand brake do u mean the brake shoe?
@@chowcares he probably meant e brake. My e brake on my 2005 lx470 has rusted shut so it needs a complete rebuild. Any chance you could walk through that?
Yang Wang ahhh gotcha. I’ll be going thru the rear brakes soon due to some squeaking. I’ll try to get to the e brake too.
@@chowcares thanks so much!
@@chowcares e brakes and it'll be nice if you can do that together with the drum brakes too..That'll be Awesome bro.
How are those replacement axles holding up? I found my 2000 Land Cruisers CV axles both have a leak on the inter boots small end as well as the seals at the differential where CV axle goes in (Likely lifting my Land Cruiser a bit wore out the 361k mile seal...unless it had been changed prior to me owning it! Wowza!! ).
I’ve debated just ordering some replacement aftermarket CV axles versus regreasing/rebooting the OEM ones.
I’m leaning towards getting an aftermarket replacement and keeping my old ones as a backup down the road should I have any issues! I can always rebuild them later.
So far my autozone cv axles have been problem free. I would also recommend changing out the axle seals in the diff at the same time. I believe I have a video up when I did them.
As far as the stock axles, definitely keep them and get them rebuilt as spares. Have fun!
@@chowcares I just got in some Cardone HD (Heavy Duty) axles and I’ll see how they work! They seem really heavy and have heard some good stuff on ih8mud on em.
Definitely gonna keep the originals as backups, no weird clunks or chirps at 361k miles...just the darn seals and boots leaking oil and grease respectively XD Didn’t feel like rebuilding them just yet. Thanks for the content as usual!
@@HBButler01 How are the Cardone hd axles? Are they just as beefy and heavy as Oem? Any issues as of now? I’m in need of replacing both myself.
Would you recommend same Mobil 1 75v90 for rear diff too?
Yes
Outside of noticing the leaks... is there anything that is a telling in regards to the cars drivability? (i.e. is there a noise, is it a rougher drive, etc.) Thanks!
When u turn full lock, you can hear clicking. That’s usually a sign of cv axles going out
Would love to see you replace/repack your rear wheel bearings
Say no more fam czcams.com/video/ObK8Y43qr4Y/video.html
@@chowcares that's what's up my man - I've seen this video and love it. Have you tackled the rear axle bearings yet?
Ryan Hester I have not, but I’m sure I will eventually
so are the differential drain plugs allen or torx? the other video that you used torx. some on the ih8mud forum said allen.
I believe if yours are original, they are torx. If they were ever replaced, Toyota sells the Allen ones only. Ask me how I know 😉
I would replace the snap ring with a new one, I read that those are supposed to be replaced everything it is taken out. Or else it'll fail and the axle will go too far into the diff.
Good to know! Next time it comes out I will replace. Planning to do the diff drop soon
@@chowcares did you ever do the diff drop? Didnt see a video for it when I searched
Are those seals the same for both sides?
I believe you used aftermarket axles, how are they performing so far? do you think there is no need to go OEM. I am asking because I wil be needing to replace my front axles soon, they are beginning to leak.
If you are doing any wheeling OEM is probably the best option
Just bought 2002 Toyota Land Cruiser but the AC/Heating system is not working at all, the buttons are not just responding to anything, please do you have ideas on what I can do?
My ac button is also kinda “sticky”. Haven’t really had a chance to look into it yet. Hopefully someone with experience who sees this can shed some light.
Mine too. They work by pressing in holding with a tad more force. Was wondering if I can carefully spray electrical or MAF cleaner or maybe even WD40, but who knows. Been like this since I bought my 2000 4yrs ago. Maybe they’re just worn. Is yours fixed?
Hey! Love the video... I had a shop do my power steering rack and other odds and ends and now my cv’s are moving back and forth at their connecting points... no leaks from them but what should I do?
Back and forth like in and out of the diff? Or can you turn it and there is a lot of slack?
chowcares in and out of the diff and at the hub
These cv axles youve linked, can i buy 2 for both the left and right side?
Yes, they’re the same for left and right
How has the axle been since replaced.
You might want to get the extended sway bar links since your seem like they need a replacing anyways
Yes they do! Know anyone that sells them for a 100?
chowcares trail tailor does
socalisik thanks!!
Do you need to get an alignment after this?
Not unless you touched the tie rods
You make the C clip look easy!! I did my front brakes last year and those things were awful to reinstall
I take off all those 12mils and the 10mil for the speed sensor seeing that brake line stretch cringe
You puzzle me. Your other cars appear immaculate. Land Cruiser however seems thrashed.
It is not a Torx bit do not use a t56 it’s a 10 mm hex
Take the caliper and abs sensor off. It takes 2 minutes.
11:20
Extractor bits
And sockets
They are the bees knees when stuff gets out of hand.
Be nicer to your brake lines friend!
I’ve never had too much luck with them. I’m probably using them wrong lol. I recently replaced all of the full and drain bolts on both front and rear diffs
chowcares
A quality set is worth the expense, saved my pickle once in a diff fill bolt
awesome until you snap the extractor bit off and there is hardened steel there to drill through after. I have had better luck just drilling out to just slightly less then the diameter of the threads and then getting a tap in there to clean the last bit of metal out of the existing threads.
Ahhhhh!!!!!!! REMOVE THE CALIPERS.
GREAT JOB on the instructions--just ONE tiny thing--- it's NOT A F...n CAR!!!! it's a truck-- I don't give a rats ass what the dictionary says- NOT everything with 4 wheels is a f...g CAR...
Had to give a thumbs down. When I pulled on my CV shaft I ended up breaking it at the lower knuckle inside the boot. Had to get it towed to a shop and had to install a new cv shaft. Tried saving a few bucks doing it myself and ended up wasting a few hundred
Sounds like your cv was on the way out (of course that’s why u were changing it). Good thing it happened in your driveway and not on the trail. Or worst yet, on the freeway at speed.