Story time with Del on his electrical stool is a win for me. Maybe you could do some more of these, telling stories of previous jobs over the years while wiring plugs, adding ferrules etc
Their should be a 45amp double pool switch between the CU and the cooker cable point. I would have used the dedicated circuit and use a double cooker cable point and connected both the cooker and hob together in the double cooker cable point. 45amp fuse. 45amp - 10amp = 35amp 30% x 35amp = 10.5amp 10.5amp + 10amp = 20.5 amp If there is a single socket on the isolator then add 5amp to the result. on-site Guide Appendix A page 136 brown book keep them coming Del, love your video. one brother to another.
you're right, for ovens greater than 2kW, they shouldn't be plugged into the kitchen ring, they should have a dedicated circuit. However, this dedicated circuit can be the same circuit as the hob, so the 6mmsq cable that was there could have done BOTH the oven and the hob. You can buy dual cable outlet plates (elephants noses / cooker faceplates, whatever some people call them) from CEF and other places specifically for hardwiring in both. There's no requirement for local isolation for cookers in the regs now, maybe just best practice, but if an isolator is fitted, building regs say it should be within 2m of it.
I’m sure you’re right about the isolating switch. In the event of the oven being on fire or repair or maintenance work needs carrying out it is convenient/ safer to isolate that part of the electrical network before touching the appliance.
When I had my oven replaced (single to replace a single), I had the option of having it on the kitchen ring but I opted to have the oven and the hob together on their own circuit, with a local isolator switch by the oven.
I was of the understanding diversity is only used to determine the size of cable and fuse supplying the whole installation ie 100A fuse for a home? The cable supplying the cooker should be rated to full load current of the appliance.
We used to always supply a single cook supply of its own back in the day and we used to use 10mm on a 32 amp fuse surely pluging that into a ring is going to overpower the circuit
Hi,there is no regulation that requires an isolator for an oven/cooker providing it can be locked off at the mcb/rcbo at the consumer unit,as Del was saying we do things because we were taught that way.A few years ago I was wiring a kitchen with a glass backsplash and nowhere for isolator’s so I rang the NICEIC helpline to find out what I had done for over 35years was just good practice.
@@johnb.9190OK yea good practice is always nice ! I was more refering to the general wall sockets in the UK that have a switch on them. I was suddenly thinking is that cause these wall sockets are in a ring circuit and otherwise you'd need to cut the whole ring at the fusebox to isolate one of the ring's sockets? here in Netherlands we have no wall sockets with switches but we use Radial circuits afaik (I'm not a sparky myself but doing hobby electronics (low voltage))
Biggest problem with time served sparkies is their insistence on hanging stinky string switches in bathrooms. Just put a normal switch in where it’s out of zone ffs.
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Story time with Del on his electrical stool is a win for me. Maybe you could do some more of these, telling stories of previous jobs over the years while wiring plugs, adding ferrules etc
I love watching your videos very fascinating and educational I love technology and I love your videos
Their should be a 45amp double pool switch between the CU and the cooker cable point. I would have used the dedicated circuit and use a double cooker cable point and connected both the cooker and hob together in the double cooker cable point.
45amp fuse. 45amp - 10amp = 35amp
30% x 35amp = 10.5amp
10.5amp + 10amp = 20.5 amp
If there is a single socket on the isolator then add 5amp to the result.
on-site Guide Appendix A page 136 brown book
keep them coming Del, love your video. one brother to another.
I once had to track down a faulty bulb on a wire of Christmas lights. I'm something of a festive electrician myself.
I do that every December lol
you're right, for ovens greater than 2kW, they shouldn't be plugged into the kitchen ring, they should have a dedicated circuit.
However, this dedicated circuit can be the same circuit as the hob, so the 6mmsq cable that was there could have done BOTH the oven and the hob.
You can buy dual cable outlet plates (elephants noses / cooker faceplates, whatever some people call them) from CEF and other places specifically for hardwiring in both.
There's no requirement for local isolation for cookers in the regs now, maybe just best practice, but if an isolator is fitted, building regs say it should be within 2m of it.
Thanks for sharing your experience
I’m sure you’re right about the isolating switch. In the event of the oven being on fire or repair or maintenance work needs carrying out it is convenient/ safer to isolate that part of the electrical network before touching the appliance.
4mm has always been rated for 32A, there's a reason we're OTT, Safety
When I had my oven replaced (single to replace a single), I had the option of having it on the kitchen ring but I opted to have the oven and the hob together on their own circuit, with a local isolator switch by the oven.
Ahhh john ward love his videos
Good video Thankyou
I was of the understanding diversity is only used to determine the size of cable and fuse supplying the whole installation ie 100A fuse for a home? The cable supplying the cooker should be rated to full load current of the appliance.
id prob want isolator switches for all high powered items.
We'll call this piece "Musings whilst wiring a plug".....
Hope you’re doing ok Delroy. Are you planning any further videos anytime soon?
We used to always supply a single cook supply of its own back in the day and we used to use 10mm on a 32 amp fuse surely pluging that into a ring is going to overpower the circuit
@@mrfixit0273 - Lots of tin foil rolled up on a 6 inch nail............
Why 10 mm. ? Then fused at 32 amp...
Nice job
Is the reason UK requires isolation switches the fact there's Ring Circuits while in for instance Netherlands all is Radial ?
Hi,there is no regulation that requires an isolator for an oven/cooker providing it can be locked off at the mcb/rcbo at the consumer unit,as Del was saying we do things because we were taught that way.A few years ago I was wiring a kitchen with a glass backsplash and nowhere for isolator’s so I rang the NICEIC helpline to find out what I had done for over 35years was just good practice.
@@johnb.9190OK yea good practice is always nice ! I was more refering to the general wall sockets in the UK that have a switch on them. I was suddenly thinking is that cause these wall sockets are in a ring circuit and otherwise you'd need to cut the whole ring at the fusebox to isolate one of the ring's sockets? here in Netherlands we have no wall sockets with switches but we use Radial circuits afaik (I'm not a sparky myself but doing hobby electronics (low voltage))
Single ovens only need a plug lol
Should of been wired into a fused spur
Biggest problem with time served sparkies is their insistence on hanging stinky string switches in bathrooms. Just put a normal switch in where it’s out of zone ffs.
Best to think of the idiot that could move in and mess with it ,therefore use 6mm cable & double pole cooker isolator on an RCD protected circuit.
Diversity is your friend.. had to use it a few times myself.. 👍
Diversity is not your friend. Belt and braces is always the way forward. Why skimp on copper to give yourself peace of mind. I totally disagree.