Nice vid. I've been searching for hours to find the location of the cylinder coolant drain bolt because I need both the radiator drain and engine to do a full system flush. I've found lots of US or older engine, mine looks like yours and is a UK 2016 D-tec 1.6. any links to a diagram or photo
I don't have any info on where the block drain is. Because it's only ever been genuine Honda coolant in the car I've not been worried about any lingering coolant that draining the block would get. If you can't find the block drain one option would be to dump the radiator and upper engine as in the video, fill with deionised water, drive until thermostat opens, drain, more water, drive, drain. Then if happy, add Honda coolant. Or repeat water some more, to suit. I've done this before on a different car after seeing that some chump in the past put incorrect type coolant in...
@@KomradeShotabollokovthank you for your fast response. I'm pretty sure found it, but have not opened yet as i need to get the replacement washer first. Standing in front of the car, it's on the back of the engine on the very left, probably halfway down the whole block. It's partially covered with a metal bracket, think it's holding some cables in place. 3 x 10 mm bots holding the bracket in place, top ones reachable over the engine block, the lower one from under the car. The drain bolt will likely only be reachable from under the car too.
As I understand it the hot/cold cabin controls only change the air flow direction over the heater core, not the coolant flow through the heater core. I didn't turn it to hot when I changed the coolant. As this car has a header tank rather than topping up at the radiator, I allowed time for air to reach the tank, as designed, then ran the car and re-checked the coolant level a few times, adding more as needed. I've had no engine cooling or cabin heating issues at all both times I've done it this way on this car.
Nice vid. I've been searching for hours to find the location of the cylinder coolant drain bolt because I need both the radiator drain and engine to do a full system flush. I've found lots of US or older engine, mine looks like yours and is a UK 2016 D-tec 1.6. any links to a diagram or photo
I don't have any info on where the block drain is. Because it's only ever been genuine Honda coolant in the car I've not been worried about any lingering coolant that draining the block would get. If you can't find the block drain one option would be to dump the radiator and upper engine as in the video, fill with deionised water, drive until thermostat opens, drain, more water, drive, drain. Then if happy, add Honda coolant. Or repeat water some more, to suit. I've done this before on a different car after seeing that some chump in the past put incorrect type coolant in...
@@KomradeShotabollokovthank you for your fast response. I'm pretty sure found it, but have not opened yet as i need to get the replacement washer first.
Standing in front of the car, it's on the back of the engine on the very left, probably halfway down the whole block. It's partially covered with a metal bracket, think it's holding some cables in place. 3 x 10 mm bots holding the bracket in place, top ones reachable over the engine block, the lower one from under the car. The drain bolt will likely only be reachable from under the car too.
Did you run the car with the coolant cap off with the heaters on full to release the air bubbles? Seen that in other videos
As I understand it the hot/cold cabin controls only change the air flow direction over the heater core, not the coolant flow through the heater core. I didn't turn it to hot when I changed the coolant. As this car has a header tank rather than topping up at the radiator, I allowed time for air to reach the tank, as designed, then ran the car and re-checked the coolant level a few times, adding more as needed. I've had no engine cooling or cabin heating issues at all both times I've done it this way on this car.