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Fair enough, I normally try to avoid removing parts of the exhaust near the engine as I find the fasteners are often badly corroded. Good to know access can be gained just from the service panel though, cheers.

I think I needed a hand from my mate and wasn't using a tripod at that time, so couldn't film it. The battery just needed a bit of wiggling and pulling to come out - nothing extreme - just a bit awkward given the weight and location at the back of the engine bay. Not all batteries are exactly the same shape; it may be the case that other models might be more difficullt to pull up through the gap than this was was for us. I don't remember removing the wiper arms.

Cheers, and I think the actuator was a cheap no-name unit from ebay. It worked OK though so no particular complaints from me.

I don't have any info on where the block drain is. Because it's only ever been genuine Honda coolant in the car I've not been worried about any lingering coolant that draining the block would get. If you can't find the block drain one option would be to dump the radiator and upper engine as in the video, fill with deionised water, drive until thermostat opens, drain, more water, drive, drain. Then if happy, add Honda coolant. Or repeat water some more, to suit. I've done this before on a different car after seeing that some chump in the past put incorrect type coolant in...

​@@KomradeShotabollokovthank you for your fast response. I'm pretty sure found it, but have not opened yet as i need to get the replacement washer first. Standing in front of the car, it's on the back of the engine on the very left, probably halfway down the whole block. It's partially covered with a metal bracket, think it's holding some cables in place. 3 x 10 mm bots holding the bracket in place, top ones reachable over the engine block, the lower one from under the car. The drain bolt will likely only be reachable from under the car too.

Yep, this is the capacity that I found from research. Well 1.9 litres, but there will be a little oil left in the two bottles.

Thanks, and I don't remember any major issues. Think it was just that they were worn/perished

Hello, i'm enjoying a stressful period of my life raising a 3 year old.

@@KomradeShotabollokov I wish you success in life my friend.

Cheers, you too 👍

@@KomradeShotabollokov thank you dear friend 👍

I couldn't see a specific interval for this in the Honda service book when I looked recently. Because it's a chain and not a belt, I suspect there is no specific interval; just replace if/when there is good reason to. Eventually the chain will wear to the extent that the timing will be slightly out, but this is probably a very long time if you keep up with regular oil changes using the correct oil.

I had something similar with mine. Fine from cold but warm town driving it thumped between 2 and 3. I would say that it can't hurt to change the oil. Be aware that you may lose the cost of the oil. Worst case is that the valve body (or something else) needs replacing and the gearbox may not be worth replacing

@@KomradeShotabollokov yes if the gearbox didn’t get better after service I would get rid of the car, Is your video on the gearbox in my year and model? I believe is the 55-50/51 gearbox but can’t find much about it

@@KomradeShotabollokovnever mind just seen the description 👍

@@KomradeShotabollokovif I only change the oil from the Method you are doing, what do you think the chances are of sorting this issue ? I saw on the service history I had a gearbox service around 80k I believe so 70k ago

Well you'd need to do a series of these sump dumps as it's only about 3 litres at a time. To get close to fresh oil in there will take at least 4 changes I expect, maybe more. Even then it's hard to know if the problem will be solved. You may have to try and see

Nice, always a good feeling. Cheers

Cheers

No prob, hope it helps. Enjoy the poor access...

Research led me to the 380 oil. It seemed that 238 was superseded. Right now Scandix sell 380 listed for the rear diff.

My dad has an AWX B5.5 (not the same car as in this video); legend of an engine and a great car. Glad the video still helps

@@KomradeShotabollokov Yes it helped...as just after ordering a battery tonight from Tayna, I realised that I'd connected a CTek dongle to the wrong terminals last night...hence not taking a charge. Rang Tayna to cancel and refund, battery just scored a 4 on the CTek and climbing....I had one simple job to do! Seeing your video tonight made me wonder...and sure enough I'd got the dongle cables round the wrong way....but hey was good to watch it again and give you another like!

Ha! A cheaper day for you in the end. Got a Ctek too and rate it.

I usually jack under the front subframe at a spot that I think is suitably strong, then lower onto stands on the designated sill jacking points. I normally go in with the jack right behind the front wheel and select a part of the subframe around there.

Yeah the difference for me was significant as well. And the cat box 3000 was not a success...

Cheers

No worries, cheers

Yeah bloody stupid location in my opinion. I imagine there are loads of 1.6 i-DTECs driving around on their original filter because the garage quoted a million quid for the job and the owner said nope.

@@KomradeShotabollokov Agreed. That was the first thing I thought, who the Chuffin' Nora is gonna swap that out in a garage?!

I think my replacement filter did come with a new drain plug installed.

Other than cycling the ignition, is there another way to do this?

@@KomradeShotabollokov yes, there is a pump below the floor mat on driver's side (left) -you can use a funnel from the trunk (standard gear) to pump it and put all the air out

OK thanks, I'll look for that next time I change the filter

@@KomradeShotabollokov thank you for the video

depends on car. newer 1.6 dont have way to prime like older models

Thanks

Thanks, I intend to make more videos for the civic so will try to include those suggestions

@@KomradeShotabollokov thanks! It's not easy to find for this specific model and I would like to learn how to do it myself.

It was probably about an hour for me but filming and making sure the lighting and angles are reasonable takes ages. It is much faster without this, of course.

It's 4.7 litres for the oil change, including the filter. I normally put in a little less than this and check the dipstick.

No, just don't turn on the ignition during the change and the pump won't power on.

Thanks, glad it helped

Thanks, glad it helped

@@KomradeShotabollokov if you have another one for civic 9th ?

I have some others for the 9th gen Civic and will add more in the future I imagine

@@KomradeShotabollokov thanks if you have tuto how change accessory belt

@@sarrasinmulooz as it happens this is one of the next items I need to look at on my car, so I'll likely make a video

As far as I know this will need to be investigated and, after the fault is fixed, cleared using a diagnostics tool. Maybe a generic one would work but it might need a Renault-specific one like DDT2000.

@@KomradeShotabollokov Thanks. I’m going to have a go at cleaning the EGR and pipe as you did in your other video, to see if that helps. This is a fun car to drive around in as it doesn’t attract attention.

Sorry I don't remember. I have a collection of various sizes and would have just picked one that fitted.

Cheers mate

No, I don't have it anymore. It was a brilliant car and gave me many years of good service; near 200,000 miles at the end. I'm glad the videos helped, thanks for the comment.

You mean that the bolt is still there but the head is rounded off? Perhaps some bolt extractor sockets might help

I came to the same conclusion, so I used the same oil in the angle gear. I was going to film that too, but the access is poor and getting a decent shot would have been difficult.

@@KomradeShotabollokov I ended up skipping the oil change for the bevel gear. Had the car on a lift and replaced rear differential oil, haldex pump oil and gearbox oil. The bevel gear I skipped since I couldn't rly figure out which bolt to remove, since there were 3 similar and my time was fairly limited. Apparently, the plug on the bevel gear changed location to face the passenger seat in models after 2013, and all guides I found were pre 2013. On another note, I was able to fill up the rear differential oil with more than was extracted, so seems as if it had not been filled up properly, or even worse, is leaking somewhere.

Yeah I found information suggesting the location of the plug moved. I think I found some info for which one it was, maybe a forum post or something. IIRC for me it was facing the driver's side (UK, RHD car) but I might be mistaken. Access was poor. Good that you've now got the correct volume of oil in the rear diff - keep an eye out for leaks...

@@KomradeShotabollokov I don't remember checking the driver side, I just tried to see which one of the plugs had a copper washer, which none did haha. But I will check next week when I will change the coolant.

Thanks, I appreciate that

@@KomradeShotabollokov No thank you, very much.Best regards to you , Sir.

Cheers. I'm not sure of the torque value; I imagine it's in Vida but I didn't check before I started. I tightened the bolts to a torque I was happy with based on years of experience working on my own cars and the feel of them as I removed them. I completely agree that torquing to spec is the right thing to do and if I was tightening more critical components, such a cylinder head bolts or any other engine block items etc., then I would use my torque wrench. As said in the video, you don't have to remove the ARB brackets if you'd prefer not to; it just makes access easier. In terms of anything specific for the ARB; I'm not sure it makes a difference in this case but I had the car on ramps, therefore the rear suspension was loaded and the ARB bushes were in the correct position. If the rear suspension was unloaded (on axle stands) then I would tighten the ARB brackets after the car is back on the ground so as not to twist the bushes.

@@KomradeShotabollokov Thanks a lot for the detailed answer!

Just checked Vida; the torque for the four M10 bolts holding the two ARB brackets on is 60Nm. They're not torque to yield bolts.

​@@KomradeShotabollokov I wanted to ask you about the jack points as well. As far as I know, there are none in the rear other than the ones on the sides. So I wonder how I would lift the car off the ground with 4 jacks, so that the car is leveled. I saw a guy lift it on what looks like the rear axle, see this at 0:40 : czcams.com/video/uZNC06Z7imQ/video.html is this correct? Would appreciate if you made a short video that shows where you can jack up the car in the back, if it is possible! Thanks a lot!

Yes it's a shame that the PIII chassis doesn't have the same four big strong jacking plates just inboard of the sill points in the same way that the PII chassis does. Maybe the S60 PIII does still have these. For the best stability I would choose to put the axle stands at the four outermost possible points: the four sill points. Therefore I'd jack under the rear cross member/subframe where Volvosweden has his stands (the same thing I'm wiping the diesel from at the very end of my video) in order to install the stands at the rear sill points. Then I'd jack each side of the front subframe (roughly where the lower control arm attaches, at a suitable strong spot) and install the stands at the front sill points. Putting both stands so close together at the rear subframe as in Volvosweden's video makes me a little nervous - If I can choose a more stable configuration in any situation, I always will.

Cheers

Well, old terms still in common use are hard to forget. There is no such thing as car tax (it's VED, of course) but people still call it that. So, yes, exhaust tunnel might be better for a FWD car.

@@KomradeShotabollokov it’s not an old term though, plenty of RWD cars with transmission tunnels 😂

Oh, and AWD cars with on-demand drive to the rear wheels too. But do you think RWD is as common as it once was? Which drive type do you think makes up most of the vehicles you see day to day on the road? The default for cheap small cars used to be RWD ( I have a Minor and an A40 in the family) but is this still the case?

@@KomradeShotabollokov I’m not trying to bust your balls, just strange to hear the term used on a FWD car 😀. There are still lots of RWD cars on the road, 2 of my 3 cars are RWD 🤷🏼‍♂️. Transmission tunnel is what it says, a tunnel to accommodate a drive shaft.

No worries, like I said just a previosuly common term used off-the-cuff but technically wrong on this car and the majority of cars on the road today.

It's deep behind the centre console, low down at the very back next to the bulkhead. I accessed it from the passenger side (UK) footwell - there's a panel to remove. Access is poor and painful while contorted on your side. I remember having to slightly bend the new filter in order to get it in. Because access is poor I imagine they don't get replaced often - I chose a good quality (Mann, I think) carbon activated one as I don't want to do it regularly. Edit: and I hope to continue with many more videos for this car when I can. Thanks for the comment.