Great stiff brother..... You really do a fantastic job packing a lot of great install bits into the short first 5 minutes of the video.... Great editing and walk through, nice bashing as well..... I think you need a better big ramp for the big boy toys👍
Thanks man I'm glad you enjoyed. Yes for these really big trucks even my big ramp isn't quite enough to go really crazy. Of course if I go much higher I'll be in the neighbor's yard which would also be a problem :-)
Very nice editing. This style of video is awesome, I’m sure it’s a LOT of work with those tight edits but it does not go unnoticed and makes it all a pleasure to watch. Truck looks sick!
Great video, excellent production values! 👍 Install was very clear and concise but still well detailed. A lot of 'smart' upgrades without going nuts! Don't always agree with your opinion (what fun would that be, lol) but the quality of your videos continues to impress! I expect those subs to climb quickly!
Awesome vid man. Awesome to see your channel growing! What issues did you have with running sensorless? Ive only run the 1250kv spektrum on it. No issues but ill switch to sensored since there is cogging with 30p/40s spool on my infraction--12s is heavy. Runs great, blew the tires off my half worn hoons at 12s 😂😂. Moving to the 56118.
It has a really bad startup routine is the only way I can describe it. Even with the motor out of the car when you nail the throttle it takes nearly a full second to spin up. This results in a very consistent and annoying hesitation from a standstill. It's not cogging In the classic sense but it's the same basic end result. It's possible that it only does it with some motors which is why I've only heard some people mention having a problem
@DoRC checking back in. I'm getting the same issues. Thought it was just cogging but you explained the same thing. Time to get the 5690 or 56118 motor.
This is an Amazing truck, easily $2000+ build and Im not surprised its so ridiculously strong. Theres only one tiny thing you missed that you may want to consider - The Chassis Bracing. They tend to bend fairly easily although with the M2C chassis they may last a while. The bigger issue is the plastic ends of those braces - they break very easily and everyone I have met with an Arrma 8S recommends the M2C 7075 brace ends.
I actually considered those but in my experience keeping the plastic ends on things like that is actually a good thing. Yes they will break sometimes but they are a cheap and easy replace mechanical fuse. I have found that if you make everything metal you're going to end up breaking something metal and metal is expensive. That's the same reason why I kept the plastic bulkheads and plastic hubs and knuckles.
Wow great vid man, very well edited and entertaining! How’s everything holding up? Seems to really improve the rotational capability. Awesome seeing double flips in limited air height!
Only thing I'd like is a parts list. I have an 8S Outcast EXB roller. And this looks like a good build. Not too crazy. All the upgrades at the right places.
Okay I'll try and give you a complete one but don't hold against me if I forget something M2C chassis, M2C motor mount, M2C center brace mount, M2C front and rear hinge pin and ABCD block kits, M2C ESC mount, MTC pillow ball retainers, M2C front and rear drive shafts, M2C center drive shafts, hot racing differential cups, hot racing mod 1.5 spur gear, saga mod 1.5 pinion, VG Racing Springs, M2C shock lowers, M2C shock pistons, Max 5G2 and I would recommend using a matching sensored ESC as it doesn't seem to like doing things sensorless. Not 100% certain all of this is necessary but it does address most of the weak points on the truck while still leaving in a flex and everything to absorb shock loads and not be too horrifically heavy.
Oh my gosh! This might be the coolest bashes I’ve ever seen hands down. Absolutely nailed it on the upgrades, metal in the right places, plastic in the right places too! I hate those all aluminum builds lol. And THOSE SHOCKS! Absolute beasts! Also great editing, totally satisfying to watch all the way through. I’m gonna sub for the great content. I really don’t say it unless I mean it, but from the content to the rig, my favorite rc video I’ve seen, and it’s by a MILE. Keep up the good work dude 🤘🤘🤘. Also mind if I ask what the whole thing cost you? I’m thinking about copying lol
Wow thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it! I think getting the roller for 399 on the deal It would be about 1600 bucks to copy the whole thing but I'm not 100% certain about that.
@@DoRC close enough an estimate for me lol. But that’s not too bad! I was thinking about picking up an Xmaxx and XRT, but I think I might build this instead. Did you find the roller used? Or is that the price for one new?
@@ridestolenbmx100 That was the price for a new one when they were discontinuing them. I don't know if they're still available at that price. Honestly though I would recommend an X-Max over one of these. It's a fun build and it's a fun truck but I think the X-Max is better.
@@DoRC I’ve had an Xmaxx before lol, I was only gonna get that because of lack of options at that size. With that available I’d rather do that. Something different than another xbmaxx!
Nice upgrades! If you know Aldo hit him up he knows the way to run this system uncensored 😎 now you need a bigger ramp to give those upgrades a proper beat down💪🏻😜
Yeah I got some good jumps with the ramp I have but a bit bigger would be nice. I think I would need a bigger backyard as well though as I'm already flying into the neighbor's yard occasionally :-) Yeah I've already been talking to a few people about running it uncensored. Jason Joseph apparently got his working but the method he mentioned to me didn't seem to do anything on mine.
Unscrewing them that fast runs the risk of drilling the threads out. Dont let it heat up spinning it like crazy. Too many used RCs are all stripped out.
Maybe so but I've been using The same methods and similar tools for many years now and haven't had a problem. That being said I'm also a professional mechanic with a couple decades under my belt so I have a pretty good feel for these things. I wouldn't recommend someone who isn't comfortable with wrenching use those sorts of methods.
I am running the front rear drive shafts from M2C and I have the non-overkill drive shafts. I like the non-overkill ones because they aren't quite as thick and are less likely to bind on the output cups and will have a little bit more flex. Thanks for watching!
@sendtherctothemoon I got them on the VG Racing website. They are listed for the Kraton but they're all the same length And if you look on eBay they list them for Kraton and the outcast. They work great on the outcast at least in my experience so far. Honestly I think they're probably more appropriate for the outcast since the outcast has all the same length shocks.
That's what I've heard. It's pretty unfortunate. It happens even without the motor in the car so it's not actually cogging. I think it's just a really bad startup routine on the sensorless system. I need to talk to hobby Wing about it.
Personally I like sticking with plastic parts unless you know they're going to break. Aluminum is less flexible heavier and more expensive. I haven't broken any of these hubs so I can't personally recommend upgrading them unless you just really want the aluminum.
@@DoRC It wasn’t about breakage concerns. I saw videos of people complaining about the metal pillow ball’s caps constantly backing out of the plastic hubs. I was wondering if aluminum hubs for the front would help with this. I’m getting ready to buy the K8 and my research showed the pillow balls/hub design were a weak spot.
@@i4nic256 oh okay. Well I know that the stock ones tend to back out. The M2C ones in my experience are holding up fine. They sort of jam into the threads as you tighten them up which seems to hold them in place. If you use aluminum hubs of course then you can use thread locker which will definitely hold them in place. Can't really give you a definitive answer just because I don't have any experience with the aluminum hubs on these and limited experience with the M2C pillow ball retainers. I would say try the M2C ones is there a lot cheaper. You could always add a bit of super glue to them which can help when threading into plastic if they do decide to back out. That being said mine haven't yet.
@@DoRC Good to know. I might go the M2C route first since it’s cheaper. Their upgrades seem to address most of the problems they tackle. Thanks bud, enjoy that Outcast 8S…that’s on my Black Friday checklist.
780 KV King val off of Amazon. It's one of those ones where it's the same motor labeled by like seven different brands. Seems like a good motor though the Max 5G2 really doesn't seem to like running sensorless motors
@JigSawRC any of the sensored motors. There are three that are specified as combos. They're all the same size but different KV. And there's the new 1250 KV motor that I think going to be a great combination. I'll have a video coming out about that very soon
$2.5k well spent🫡. I wanna do one of these builds with my new v2. Am I right that M2C doesn’t make a tower-to-tower brace for the 8s rigs? I know that Custom RC Upgrades does.
No they don't. They make aluminum ends for the stock tower braces but not an upgraded one. Personally I like the stock ones. With the much stiffer M2C chassis They don't really seem to bend that much and I think that with the plastic ends they are a cheap and easy to replace mechanical fuse if something does get overloaded.
@@DoRCbecause I meet a lot of people that watch these videos and get the impression that everything needs to be upgraded . I think new people should get a disclaimer
@Shellzwick hmm. Maybe so but at the same time upgrading is kind of an integral part of the hobby for most people. I think making a video about that is reasonable. I saw you changed your original comment. I'm not sure how much experience you have with this platform but while the stock EXB is pretty durable If you're going to be doing serious bashing with it there are some things that definitely need to be upgraded. That being said upgrades certainly aren't for everyone and I can definitely appreciate your point of view on newcomers! I will keep that in mind for future videos.
@StevenYDG69 very true though I will say that I can see where he's coming from. The feeling that everything must immediately be upgraded is something that could turn new people off.
Hey man awesome video. I'm either going to get the new outcast exb rtr, or a new xmaxx. I want your opinion on which to go with based off these builds. Outcast I'd add m2c pillow retainers, 25mm bulkhead screws, m2c brace ends and carbon fiber sleeves (stock chassis), and later upgraded cvd axles. Xmaxx I'd replace with HD arms (stock length) all around, Gpm hinge pin kit, xrt hubs/casters all around, gds 50t spur and a steel pinion, also m2c chassis brace on the bottom. 2085x servo once plastic one goes. Either way I'd essentially be keeping them both stock, I've no interest in crazy power or major weight additions. Which one do you think would be tougher with these builds? Which would be more reliable with moderate jumps/tumbles/high speed rips? Finally which would you pick out of these builds? Any input is appreciated! 👍
At the moment I think I'd go with the X-Maxx. This is primarily because I can pretty much guarantee you that most If not all of the updates that are on the new EXB RTR Kraton Will be showing up on V6 non-EXB versions of everything fairly soon. Some of the things that you're concerned about upgrading will have already been addressed.
@@DoRC I was talking about the newer 8s exb rtr outcast, not the 6s line. Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding, but you're saying things like aluminum bulkheads and aluminum pillow retainers will probably be coming to the 8s line too? They just updated the 8s recently so that's why I was wondering. I don't mind the plastic diff house, like you said keeps the 8s beasts lighter. Don't see them doing a full 8s update for a while now.. so you'd still say xmaxx?
@smoothwookienookie5912 I'm sorry My brain automatically went to the new 6S EXB. I would still recommend the X-Max between the two 8s options. The 8S EXB is an awesome truck but it's heavier than the X-Maxx a bit weaker out of the box and pretty much everything on it costs more to replace. They are similar size especially if you get the wide kit for the X-Max and they fill a similar role but I think the X-Max is just a better platform at the moment.
ITS THE G2 ESC ... THATS THE FIRST RUN I BET , I HAD HE SAME ISSUE WITH MY MAX8 G2 COMBO ITS AMATTER IF TIME BEFORE YOUR CAPS BURN OUT . I GOT A REPLACEMENT MAX 8G2 AND THERE WERE NO ISSUES
There were several runs in that video. I've run it quite a bit since then and no other issues. Switching to a sensored motor fixed the problem. Honestly I think all of the G2 ESCs have weird problems.
hobbywing max5 g2 have a 1 second delay so you have to programed with the bluetooth module they sell it, you just have to update and decrease the turbo boost on 0 second's.
I tried that and it didn't make any difference on mine. I've tried changing pretty much every setting there is and it didn't seem to change that at all. I will definitely take another look at it though. Thanks!
For that level bashing stock would work while being much cheaper. I wouldn't put that M2C chassis on for anything. If stock ever bends I'll replace with stock. It just looks to good not to use. I grabbed 2 when they first went on sale and the one i built has been going strong. Nothing has broken yet and I'm no easier on it than this video. More than one crash I've just known something had to be hanging off but even the wing is still firmly attached.
I've had these stock and have broken them pretty easily with the kind of bashing that I do. Keep in mind that I put almost only good landings in that video and I put several packs in that I wasn't recording. It's had some pretty hard landings. I've broken just about every stock vehicle I've had on that ramp. The stock truck is pretty durable but in my experience other than the 4S Max and the 4S Outcast V2 nothing has ever survived my bashing stock.
I would have done before footage but one of the things I do when I make these big upgrades is sell The stock parts off to help recoup costs. If they're used they're worth a lot less. A gravel pit is a good idea. I need to find something like that around here. Thanks for watching :-)
@@DoRC I can see that point. I just started a blog style series called I'd hit that where I go around looking for spots. Any hill in a park or school can be prime. Ya man, I watch everything and I try to be honest and impartial even though I have my opnions haha more bash less bench!💪
They are definitely a lot of fun! Honestly for your first one I would probably recommend an X-Max. These can be really good with a lot of upgrades but the X-Max is a bit better out of the box. Thanks for watching and if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated :-)
@humblebeast7232 oh yeah I actually chose not to get those because I like to keep plastic in certain areas of the vehicle. If both allows for a little bit of flex and is a cheap mechanical fuse if something goes catastrophically wrong.
You're welcome. If you're going to use the Max 5G2 I would recommend using one of the new sensored hobby wing motors as the sensorless ones don't seem to play well with it.
Awesome build bro, I recently bought an Outcast 8s EXB V1 roller while it was on sale in July and i plan to put in a Max 5 G2\56118 G2 800kv but waiting on an M2C Bellcrank for the 56118 motor to fit it.
@@DoRC That's cool, Currently i'm planning to put a stock Spektrum Firma 160 V2 with 5687 1,100KV combo and the stock S6510 servo from the V2 RTR into my V1 EXB roller for now just to get it running hope fully by early next year. Kind of got slowed down by my X-Maxx servo going bad and other projects sometime maybe in the future i might put the Hobbywing Max 5 G2\800KV combo in my truck along with a few other parts.
@@DoRC ok thanks! Do you find these new 1/5 bashers to be durable enough? Compared to the smaller 6s versions? I don’t plan to be sending it 40 feet high but for like a bmx track style bash are they just as durable there?
@thepatternforms859 I don't think the 1/5 scale Arrmas are as durable as their 1/8 scale. For normal general driving they're fine but they do tend to break a little more often with heavy bashing.
Mod 1.5 gears are already in it and I had some foam supporting the rest of the motor but I don't know if you noticed in the very end of the video but I did end up breaking two of the screws off on the motor mount. I didn't realize it until later so I guess I need more support. I actually have the 1250 KV sensored motor coming and I'll be doing a video on that very soon. Should be a bit less stress on everything.
@@dualtrondreamteam6811 Well honestly The thing I was most concerned about confusing was the algorithm. Got to get those keywords in there otherwise it doesn't know who to push the video to.
@@DoRC I hope you get alot of views, it's a well put 2gether video and you have clearly spent alot of money getting the rig built! Keep up the good work
Why does everyone get all excited over center diffs then just lock them up with silicone plugs? Does'nt that just lock it up, rendering it basically not there now?
Great stiff brother..... You really do a fantastic job packing a lot of great install bits into the short first 5 minutes of the video.... Great editing and walk through, nice bashing as well..... I think you need a better big ramp for the big boy toys👍
Thanks man I'm glad you enjoyed. Yes for these really big trucks even my big ramp isn't quite enough to go really crazy. Of course if I go much higher I'll be in the neighbor's yard which would also be a problem :-)
I love videos where you show you actually working on the rig and also your tricks and bits when working. So awesome no learn so much
Yeah I really enjoy doing it this way too. It's quite a bit more editing work but I feel like it's more engaging
@@DoRC I want to say thank you. The bit where you flipped the rig and just took all the screws out the chassis is a something I never thought of
@@user-ig1tt1jq9n yeah it makes chassis changes super easy!
Very nice editing. This style of video is awesome, I’m sure it’s a LOT of work with those tight edits but it does not go unnoticed and makes it all a pleasure to watch. Truck looks sick!
Yes definitely a lot of work but I think the end result is worth it! Glad you enjoy :-)
Great video, excellent production values! 👍 Install was very clear and concise but still well detailed. A lot of 'smart' upgrades without going nuts! Don't always agree with your opinion (what fun would that be, lol) but the quality of your videos continues to impress! I expect those subs to climb quickly!
Thanks man I appreciate it. If you ever disagree with an opinion I'm always up for a good debate too :-) Thanks for watching!
WOW! You really do an amazing and install overview!!! Great bashing, concise descriptions. Thanks for posting! I love it!
Glad you enjoyed! Thanks for watching.
Damn bro your are living the dream that outcast is a beast💯
Yeah this is a sweet ride! Thanks for watching :-)
I love this Guy!! "We're not keeping Anything on this thing Stock"🤘😅😂🤣
I'm glad you enjoyed :-)
Awesome vid man. Awesome to see your channel growing!
What issues did you have with running sensorless? Ive only run the 1250kv spektrum on it. No issues but ill switch to sensored since there is cogging with 30p/40s spool on my infraction--12s is heavy. Runs great, blew the tires off my half worn hoons at 12s 😂😂. Moving to the 56118.
It has a really bad startup routine is the only way I can describe it. Even with the motor out of the car when you nail the throttle it takes nearly a full second to spin up. This results in a very consistent and annoying hesitation from a standstill. It's not cogging In the classic sense but it's the same basic end result. It's possible that it only does it with some motors which is why I've only heard some people mention having a problem
@@DoRC ah gotcha. Thanks for the insight.
@DoRC checking back in. I'm getting the same issues. Thought it was just cogging but you explained the same thing. Time to get the 5690 or 56118 motor.
@@Ryndel yeah unfortunately I think that's the only solution.
This is an Amazing truck, easily $2000+ build and Im not surprised its so ridiculously strong. Theres only one tiny thing you missed that you may want to consider - The Chassis Bracing. They tend to bend fairly easily although with the M2C chassis they may last a while. The bigger issue is the plastic ends of those braces - they break very easily and everyone I have met with an Arrma 8S recommends the M2C 7075 brace ends.
I actually considered those but in my experience keeping the plastic ends on things like that is actually a good thing. Yes they will break sometimes but they are a cheap and easy replace mechanical fuse. I have found that if you make everything metal you're going to end up breaking something metal and metal is expensive. That's the same reason why I kept the plastic bulkheads and plastic hubs and knuckles.
Wow great vid man, very well edited and entertaining! How’s everything holding up? Seems to really improve the rotational capability. Awesome seeing double flips in limited air height!
Holding up awesome. I actually just did another video with it and the max 6 G2 combo. It's a beast!
You make really quality videos.
Thanks man I appreciate that! I try :-)
Nice build. Looking to put 12s in my new build. 💯
Definitely fun but also probably overkill :-)
Only thing I'd like is a parts list. I have an 8S Outcast EXB roller. And this looks like a good build. Not too crazy. All the upgrades at the right places.
Okay I'll try and give you a complete one but don't hold against me if I forget something
M2C chassis, M2C motor mount, M2C center brace mount, M2C front and rear hinge pin and ABCD block kits, M2C ESC mount, MTC pillow ball retainers, M2C front and rear drive shafts, M2C center drive shafts, hot racing differential cups, hot racing mod 1.5 spur gear, saga mod 1.5 pinion, VG Racing Springs, M2C shock lowers, M2C shock pistons, Max 5G2 and I would recommend using a matching sensored ESC as it doesn't seem to like doing things sensorless.
Not 100% certain all of this is necessary but it does address most of the weak points on the truck while still leaving in a flex and everything to absorb shock loads and not be too horrifically heavy.
@@DoRC Awesome! Thank you!
@edwinlomonaco6754 You're welcome :-)
Super awesome video! Great attention to detail brother!! What size SAGA MOD 1.5 spur gear?
Oh my gosh! This might be the coolest bashes I’ve ever seen hands down.
Absolutely nailed it on the upgrades, metal in the right places, plastic in the right places too!
I hate those all aluminum builds lol.
And THOSE SHOCKS! Absolute beasts!
Also great editing, totally satisfying to watch all the way through.
I’m gonna sub for the great content. I really don’t say it unless I mean it, but from the content to the rig, my favorite rc video I’ve seen, and it’s by a MILE.
Keep up the good work dude 🤘🤘🤘.
Also mind if I ask what the whole thing cost you? I’m thinking about copying lol
Wow thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it! I think getting the roller for 399 on the deal It would be about 1600 bucks to copy the whole thing but I'm not 100% certain about that.
@@DoRC close enough an estimate for me lol.
But that’s not too bad! I was thinking about picking up an Xmaxx and XRT, but I think I might build this instead.
Did you find the roller used? Or is that the price for one new?
@@ridestolenbmx100 That was the price for a new one when they were discontinuing them. I don't know if they're still available at that price. Honestly though I would recommend an X-Max over one of these. It's a fun build and it's a fun truck but I think the X-Max is better.
@@DoRC I’ve had an Xmaxx before lol, I was only gonna get that because of lack of options at that size.
With that available I’d rather do that. Something different than another xbmaxx!
@@ridestolenbmx100Well in that case go for it! I don't think youll be disappointed :-)
Nice upgrades! If you know Aldo hit him up he knows the way to run this system uncensored 😎 now you need a bigger ramp to give those upgrades a proper beat down💪🏻😜
Yeah I got some good jumps with the ramp I have but a bit bigger would be nice. I think I would need a bigger backyard as well though as I'm already flying into the neighbor's yard occasionally :-)
Yeah I've already been talking to a few people about running it uncensored. Jason Joseph apparently got his working but the method he mentioned to me didn't seem to do anything on mine.
nce video bro keep it up 👍👍👍
Thanks man I'm glad you enjoyed. It was a lot of fun to make!
dang man thats a ton of $$$$ but ive done it to b4 too.... i have my 8s on order hopefully its here monday
Did you get the new RTR?
@@DoRC yes well it’s on order hopefully be here Monday or Tuesday at latest…. This will be my 1st large scale RC I’ve owned I’m pretty excited
@RC4us nice! Enjoy:)
Unscrewing them that fast runs the risk of drilling the threads out. Dont let it heat up spinning it like crazy. Too many used RCs are all stripped out.
Maybe so but I've been using The same methods and similar tools for many years now and haven't had a problem. That being said I'm also a professional mechanic with a couple decades under my belt so I have a pretty good feel for these things. I wouldn't recommend someone who isn't comfortable with wrenching use those sorts of methods.
Very cool!!! What motor is that??
It's a King Val one I got on Amazon. Seems pretty good
Nice music choice on he first run
Thanks! I enjoy finding new music to put in the videos.
Amazing build
You think it’s bouncy from the shock oil weight?
Probably. I just use the stock oil and with how much heavier the truck is it probably needs to be adjusted.
Very nice video what about m2c cvds over kill ones and m2c rear and front drive shaft but very sweet truck I’m upgradeing my 8s outcast too
I am running the front rear drive shafts from M2C and I have the non-overkill drive shafts. I like the non-overkill ones because they aren't quite as thick and are less likely to bind on the output cups and will have a little bit more flex. Thanks for watching!
Wish i had a $1000+ to put into an RC atm 😂 Beast
Yeah definitely an expensive toy but it was a fun project :-)
If i had so much money i wanted to throw some away . It might be on this .
Yeah something like this definitely isn't the most practical use of money but certainly is fun!! Thanks for watching :-)
Aren’t the VG racing springs only for the kraton because the front shocks street 12mm shorter on the kraton than the outcast?
These were specified for the outcast and were all the same length. They work really well on this truck! Thanks for watching :-)
@@DoRC do you have the link to those?
@sendtherctothemoon I got them on the VG Racing website. They are listed for the Kraton but they're all the same length And if you look on eBay they list them for Kraton and the outcast. They work great on the outcast at least in my experience so far. Honestly I think they're probably more appropriate for the outcast since the outcast has all the same length shocks.
Yeah if you're going for the max5 G2 you need the sensored combo. All over the world they're having bad cogging issues.
That's what I've heard. It's pretty unfortunate. It happens even without the motor in the car so it's not actually cogging. I think it's just a really bad startup routine on the sensorless system. I need to talk to hobby Wing about it.
Do you think the M2C pillow ball upgrade is better than upgrading to the Vitavon aluminum hubs. I can’t decide which way to go.
Personally I like sticking with plastic parts unless you know they're going to break. Aluminum is less flexible heavier and more expensive. I haven't broken any of these hubs so I can't personally recommend upgrading them unless you just really want the aluminum.
@@DoRC It wasn’t about breakage concerns. I saw videos of people complaining about the metal pillow ball’s caps constantly backing out of the plastic hubs. I was wondering if aluminum hubs for the front would help with this. I’m getting ready to buy the K8 and my research showed the pillow balls/hub design were a weak spot.
@@i4nic256 oh okay. Well I know that the stock ones tend to back out. The M2C ones in my experience are holding up fine. They sort of jam into the threads as you tighten them up which seems to hold them in place. If you use aluminum hubs of course then you can use thread locker which will definitely hold them in place. Can't really give you a definitive answer just because I don't have any experience with the aluminum hubs on these and limited experience with the M2C pillow ball retainers. I would say try the M2C ones is there a lot cheaper. You could always add a bit of super glue to them which can help when threading into plastic if they do decide to back out. That being said mine haven't yet.
@@DoRC Good to know. I might go the M2C route first since it’s cheaper. Their upgrades seem to address most of the problems they tackle. Thanks bud, enjoy that Outcast 8S…that’s on my Black Friday checklist.
You should have just bought a screw kit and built the whole rig from scratch 😂
That's what I did :-)
What a build bro! What KV motor we’re you running? 800?
What brand?
780 KV King val off of Amazon. It's one of those ones where it's the same motor labeled by like seven different brands. Seems like a good motor though the Max 5G2 really doesn't seem to like running sensorless motors
@@DoRC oh wierd ! What’s the motor that runs well with the max5g2?
@JigSawRC any of the sensored motors. There are three that are specified as combos. They're all the same size but different KV. And there's the new 1250 KV motor that I think going to be a great combination. I'll have a video coming out about that very soon
@@DoRC awesome man I got my notifications on for ya :)
I’m still waiting on my new 8s exb O8 I’m stoked
@JigSawRC appreciate it :-)
$2.5k well spent🫡. I wanna do one of these builds with my new v2. Am I right that M2C doesn’t make a tower-to-tower brace for the 8s rigs? I know that Custom RC Upgrades does.
No they don't. They make aluminum ends for the stock tower braces but not an upgraded one. Personally I like the stock ones. With the much stiffer M2C chassis They don't really seem to bend that much and I think that with the plastic ends they are a cheap and easy to replace mechanical fuse if something does get overloaded.
The stock exb is a beast . All your upgrades wasnt needed as far as durability .
It's definitely a good truck out of the box but why would an upgrade video be bad for the hobby?
@@DoRCbecause I meet a lot of people that watch these videos and get the impression that everything needs to be upgraded . I think new people should get a disclaimer
@Shellzwick hmm. Maybe so but at the same time upgrading is kind of an integral part of the hobby for most people. I think making a video about that is reasonable.
I saw you changed your original comment. I'm not sure how much experience you have with this platform but while the stock EXB is pretty durable If you're going to be doing serious bashing with it there are some things that definitely need to be upgraded.
That being said upgrades certainly aren't for everyone and I can definitely appreciate your point of view on newcomers! I will keep that in mind for future videos.
@@Shellzwickfeel free to make your own vid with a disclaimer 👌🏻🍻
@StevenYDG69 very true though I will say that I can see where he's coming from. The feeling that everything must immediately be upgraded is something that could turn new people off.
What motor kv and gearing did you use?
It's a 780 KV motor from Amazon but I'm not sure what gearing I used.
Hey man awesome video. I'm either going to get the new outcast exb rtr, or a new xmaxx. I want your opinion on which to go with based off these builds.
Outcast I'd add m2c pillow retainers, 25mm bulkhead screws, m2c brace ends and carbon fiber sleeves (stock chassis), and later upgraded cvd axles.
Xmaxx I'd replace with HD arms (stock length) all around, Gpm hinge pin kit, xrt hubs/casters all around, gds 50t spur and a steel pinion, also m2c chassis brace on the bottom. 2085x servo once plastic one goes.
Either way I'd essentially be keeping them both stock, I've no interest in crazy power or major weight additions. Which one do you think would be tougher with these builds? Which would be more reliable with moderate jumps/tumbles/high speed rips?
Finally which would you pick out of these builds? Any input is appreciated! 👍
At the moment I think I'd go with the X-Maxx. This is primarily because I can pretty much guarantee you that most If not all of the updates that are on the new EXB RTR Kraton Will be showing up on V6 non-EXB versions of everything fairly soon. Some of the things that you're concerned about upgrading will have already been addressed.
@@DoRC I was talking about the newer 8s exb rtr outcast, not the 6s line. Forgive me if I'm misunderstanding, but you're saying things like aluminum bulkheads and aluminum pillow retainers will probably be coming to the 8s line too? They just updated the 8s recently so that's why I was wondering. I don't mind the plastic diff house, like you said keeps the 8s beasts lighter. Don't see them doing a full 8s update for a while now.. so you'd still say xmaxx?
@smoothwookienookie5912 I'm sorry My brain automatically went to the new 6S EXB.
I would still recommend the X-Max between the two 8s options. The 8S EXB is an awesome truck but it's heavier than the X-Maxx a bit weaker out of the box and pretty much everything on it costs more to replace. They are similar size especially if you get the wide kit for the X-Max and they fill a similar role but I think the X-Max is just a better platform at the moment.
What drill do you use?
It's called a No cry. You can get it on Amazon. Silly name but great driver.
I chose this over the Kraton 8s exb should I regret it ?
The outcast is better for stunts and the Kraton is better for handling. It really just depends on what type of bashing You're going to be doing
What you going to do with all those extra parts now ?
All the stock parts will be sold in order to recoup some of the investment.
ITS THE G2 ESC ... THATS THE FIRST RUN I BET , I HAD HE SAME ISSUE WITH MY MAX8 G2 COMBO ITS AMATTER IF TIME BEFORE YOUR CAPS BURN OUT . I GOT A REPLACEMENT MAX 8G2 AND THERE WERE NO ISSUES
There were several runs in that video. I've run it quite a bit since then and no other issues. Switching to a sensored motor fixed the problem. Honestly I think all of the G2 ESCs have weird problems.
@@DoRC yea in the forums they speak of these lol glad you got it figured out 🙏
Thanks for watching and commenting!
hobbywing max5 g2 have a 1 second delay so you have to programed with the bluetooth module they sell it, you just have to update and decrease the turbo boost on 0 second's.
I tried that and it didn't make any difference on mine. I've tried changing pretty much every setting there is and it didn't seem to change that at all. I will definitely take another look at it though. Thanks!
All the upgrades cost more than the stock truck dam👍
Yeah sometimes that can be easy to do. Definitely a fun project though :-) Thanks for watching!
@@DoRC yeah I do the thing when I get a new model👍 nice build
@@cannibal666 Thanks man :-) if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated!
For that level bashing stock would work while being much cheaper. I wouldn't put that M2C chassis on for anything. If stock ever bends I'll replace with stock. It just looks to good not to use. I grabbed 2 when they first went on sale and the one i built has been going strong. Nothing has broken yet and I'm no easier on it than this video. More than one crash I've just known something had to be hanging off but even the wing is still firmly attached.
I've had these stock and have broken them pretty easily with the kind of bashing that I do. Keep in mind that I put almost only good landings in that video and I put several packs in that I wasn't recording. It's had some pretty hard landings. I've broken just about every stock vehicle I've had on that ramp.
The stock truck is pretty durable but in my experience other than the 4S Max and the 4S Outcast V2 nothing has ever survived my bashing stock.
Got a parts list you used? Would love to build those shocks!
The shock parts I used are from M2C.
@@DoRC Thanks! I see they have a 7mm kit for the RTR. Perfect.
@jimmular9520 Yeah it's definitely a good kit!
On 12s it looks like a outcast 6s in the air amazing work bro
Yeah it actually handles really well!
What did hobbywing say about the esc bugging og glitching ?
I sent them an email and haven't heard back.
@@DoRCi heard you Can change the throttle Delay in the esc Settings
@nichlaslomholt66 I tried a bunch of different settings and none of them made any difference.
I would love to have seen before and after footage. She needs a field trip bro take her to a gravel pit!
I would have done before footage but one of the things I do when I make these big upgrades is sell The stock parts off to help recoup costs. If they're used they're worth a lot less.
A gravel pit is a good idea. I need to find something like that around here. Thanks for watching :-)
@@DoRC I can see that point. I just started a blog style series called I'd hit that where I go around looking for spots. Any hill in a park or school can be prime. Ya man, I watch everything and I try to be honest and impartial even though I have my opnions haha more bash less bench!💪
One day ill has me a 8s rig
They are definitely a lot of fun! Honestly for your first one I would probably recommend an X-Max. These can be really good with a lot of upgrades but the X-Max is a bit better out of the box. Thanks for watching and if you aren't already subscribed a sub is appreciated :-)
What was the title cost of your build?
Not entirely sure. I try not to add up the cost of these builds as it tends to be kind of depressing :-) probably a couple grand though
try getting the tear drops from m2c and you should be good!🤙
What are the teardrops?
@@DoRC they go on the tower braces
@@DoRC they're s
Stiffener rod ends 3586 8s
@humblebeast7232 oh yeah I actually chose not to get those because I like to keep plastic in certain areas of the vehicle. If both allows for a little bit of flex and is a cheap mechanical fuse if something goes catastrophically wrong.
How many KV motor? And what is the gearing?
780 KV motor and the gearing is 24/29
@@DoRC thanks
You're welcome. If you're going to use the Max 5G2 I would recommend using one of the new sensored hobby wing motors as the sensorless ones don't seem to play well with it.
@@DoRC that hobbywing motor won't fot in kraton
M2C just came out with a new steering setup that allows it to fit. You can also use the new 1250 KV motor if you want to go with something smaller.
Awesome build bro, I recently bought an Outcast 8s EXB V1 roller while it was on sale in July and i plan to put in a Max 5 G2\56118 G2 800kv but waiting on an M2C Bellcrank for the 56118 motor to fit it.
That should be a pretty monstrous setup! Enjoy :-)
@@DoRC Yeah it should be an insane setup i also plan to use my Radiolink RC8X radio and a Spektrum S9120BL Servo.
@cjchannel12 nice! I put a 30° north 70 kg servo in this one. It's just what I had on hand but I've been really happy with it so far.
@@DoRC That's cool, Currently i'm planning to put a stock Spektrum Firma 160 V2 with 5687 1,100KV combo and the stock S6510 servo from the V2 RTR into my V1 EXB roller for now just to get it running hope fully by early next year. Kind of got slowed down by my X-Maxx servo going bad and other projects sometime maybe in the future i might put the Hobbywing Max 5 G2\800KV combo in my truck along with a few other parts.
Max 5 wax vs max 6 g2?
In this I would probably go with the max 5G 2. It's a pretty heavy truck
@@DoRC ok thanks! Do you find these new 1/5 bashers to be durable enough? Compared to the smaller 6s versions? I don’t plan to be sending it 40 feet high but for like a bmx track style bash are they just as durable there?
@thepatternforms859 I don't think the 1/5 scale Arrmas are as durable as their 1/8 scale. For normal general driving they're fine but they do tend to break a little more often with heavy bashing.
Mod 1.5 gears.. and a rear motor support would finish this baby off.. sick build ❤
Mod 1.5 gears are already in it and I had some foam supporting the rest of the motor but I don't know if you noticed in the very end of the video but I did end up breaking two of the screws off on the motor mount. I didn't realize it until later so I guess I need more support. I actually have the 1250 KV sensored motor coming and I'll be doing a video on that very soon. Should be a bit less stress on everything.
Oh you guys are so late BKF RACING HAS THE BEST OUTCAST AND KRATON EXB HANDS DOWN yours is nice 👍🏾🏁 not the best
I think it just depends on what you consider the best. I'm happy with mine :-)
These are not 1:5 scale don't believe Arrmas lies, and near dry diffs just another day in the world of arrma
Yeah I know. I have actual 1/5 scale cars. But it's what they call them so if I don't also call them that it will confuse people. Thanks for watching!
@@DoRC fair point although the only people that will be confused are noobs and the deluded 😂🤣😂
@@dualtrondreamteam6811 Well honestly The thing I was most concerned about confusing was the algorithm. Got to get those keywords in there otherwise it doesn't know who to push the video to.
@@DoRC I hope you get alot of views, it's a well put 2gether video and you have clearly spent alot of money getting the rig built! Keep up the good work
@dualtrondreamteam6811 Yes this was a very long and involved video both in creation and editing. I'm glad that you enjoyed it!
Why does everyone get all excited over center diffs then just lock them up with silicone plugs? Does'nt that just lock it up, rendering it basically not there now?
Not quite. The silicone ear plugs make it very stiff but it's still able to transfer shock loads and do its job protecting the drivetrain.