Excellent, thorough and important video, where the devil can be in simple details- a leaking valve cover gasket is a very common and annoying problem well covered here. Also with rubber gaskets now FAR more expensive, people are going back to "kork", such as myself! Thanks!
Thank you for posting this; I'm doing a full rebuild on my 2001 Xterra and the oil pan gasket for the KA24DE calls for a cork rubber gasket. I ended up getting a Fel-Pro gasket. I remember the old-school mechanics who taught me saying to not use RTV gasket maker on cork rubber. What threw me for a loop was removing the old oil pan and finding the shop that had done the oil pan gasket when I bought the vehicle had used some kind of sealant to bond the gasket to the pan. I'm replacing the original pan due to deep rust, otherwise I wanted to double-check what procedure was correct prior to reassembly. Your video was quite informative, I'll be sure to read up.
Geez Pete, just in time! I’m installing a Fel-Pro gasket like this on my 59 GMC in the next two weeks! Thank you very much. Sorry I haven’t been texting you for advice lately, I know you miss me and my 270😂😂
I was taught in the early 60's by some older wise mechanics to turn your pan or cover rail upside down on a piece of wood and place the ball peen side of a small hammer against the bolt holes one at a time stiking the flat side of that hammer with the flat side of another pushing the bolt hole straight in line with the pan rail. This helps the pan or cover to not leak!!!
Hey Pete, you ever use the Fel pro corkprene gaskets for the China wall on a SBC? I got a set that came with the Fel pro intake gaskets. Seem like they would work better than just the bead or sealant. ??
Having no problem with leaks on my 302 engine that was rebuilt about 2 years ago...using Fel-Pro gaskets. What I do have a problem with is my e4od transmission. No matter what type of gasket I've used, I end up with leaks. The real problem, in my opinion, is that the e4od stamped steel pans are not made to handle the recommended torque spec...which is 10 - 14 ft lbs. I tossed my original pan, bought a stamped steel Derale pan...and got the same bolt indentations in the pan...that caused a leak...and it was just a matter of time. I've used RTV...and no RTV...and there is really no difference. I keep spending money....and am waiting for a Moroso pan...with a billet flange, that shouldn't flex when I install the pan bolts at the recommended 10 ft lbs. My thought is that, for flexible pans, the manufacturer really should be supplying braces, as I have on my oil pan, to prevent pan warping and bolt indentation that causes leaks persistently. Also bought a neoprene Moroso gasket...and will be installing it without rtv/sealant, so it can be reused whenever I open up the pan again. Honestly...these large transmission are a pain in the ass, in regard to leaks from the pan. I'm hoping to have found the best solution. Will know in a few weeks.
What we as customers/ users of Felpro gaskets, and I have used and sold them since 1978, is why, I mean why don't they make the silicone gaskets with the steel reinforcement and anti compression sleeves for the transmission pans of all the popular American transmissions that are used in performance applications? Or more models of engines for the valve covers?
Easiest way by far, install temporary studs made from long bolts with head cut off. Install the gasket over the studs, install the cover, or component, install bolts and remove studs. No chance of damaging gasket and all bolt holes line up.
If available, I tossed the cork gaskets into the trash bin and got the metal rail gaskets with rubber lining. Did that on my 327 Chevrolet valve covers and never had another leak.
Sealing is not required. The purpose of those glues is threefold: 1. Adhere the gasket to the cover so that it comes off with the cover and doesn't leave pieces on the engine surface. 2. Keeps the gasket in place during installation. Despite the locking tabs, the gaskets may fall out under their own weight. 6 cylinder valve covers are notorious. The oil pan rail gaskets on this engine fit under the end seals. They must be glued into place when replacing the pan in the car. Good video topic 👍 3. Reduce gasket "drift" during tightening. V-8 intake manifold end gaskets are notorious. The Ford small block V-8 (cousin to this 6 cyl) is notorious since those surfaces are machined. The OEM gaskets were glued in place; you had to chisel them off. I liked the Indian Head because it had an Indian head on the bottle. It smells cool, like something illegal. My boss at the gas station in the '70's liked 3-M Weatherstrip Adhesive. It tacks quickly, but stays somewhat pliable so it's fairly easy to remove. It is also compatible with the cork-rubber gaskets.
Hello, I bought those and installed with no sealant. it is leaking a little oil in the bottom of both sides. Should I remove and put some Permatex Sealant liquid? Fel pro vs 13379
Excellent, thorough and important video, where the devil can be in simple details- a leaking valve cover gasket is a very common and annoying problem well covered here. Also with rubber gaskets now FAR more expensive, people are going back to "kork", such as myself! Thanks!
Great point!
Thank you for posting this; I'm doing a full rebuild on my 2001 Xterra and the oil pan gasket for the KA24DE calls for a cork rubber gasket. I ended up getting a Fel-Pro gasket.
I remember the old-school mechanics who taught me saying to not use RTV gasket maker on cork rubber. What threw me for a loop was removing the old oil pan and finding the shop that had done the oil pan gasket when I bought the vehicle had used some kind of sealant to bond the gasket to the pan.
I'm replacing the original pan due to deep rust, otherwise I wanted to double-check what procedure was correct prior to reassembly. Your video was quite informative, I'll be sure to read up.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
Geez Pete, just in time! I’m installing a Fel-Pro gasket like this on my 59 GMC in the next two weeks! Thank you very much. Sorry I haven’t been texting you for advice lately, I know you miss me and my 270😂😂
Timing is everything. I'm always happy to help
I was taught in the early 60's by some older wise mechanics to turn your pan or cover rail upside down on a piece of wood and place the ball peen side of a small hammer against the bolt holes one at a time stiking the flat side of that hammer with the flat side of another pushing the bolt hole straight in line with the pan rail. This helps the pan or cover to not leak!!!
Great comment, thanks Richard
Fantasic details, thank you. Cant wait to watch head gaskets video next.
Thank you!
Great content
Luv ur videos
Thank you so much 😀
Very Good Video !
Thank you very much!
Hey Pete, you ever use the Fel pro corkprene gaskets for the China wall on a SBC? I got a set that came with the Fel pro intake gaskets. Seem like they would work better than just the bead or sealant. ??
Yes, they are good, as long as you have no had the deck lowered too much
I’m a video kinda guy. This is actually a really good video of what we should do… let’s do this
Thanks my friend
Having no problem with leaks on my 302 engine that was rebuilt about 2 years ago...using Fel-Pro gaskets. What I do have a problem with is my e4od transmission. No matter what type of gasket I've used, I end up with leaks. The real problem, in my opinion, is that the e4od stamped steel pans are not made to handle the recommended torque spec...which is 10 - 14 ft lbs. I tossed my original pan, bought a stamped steel Derale pan...and got the same bolt indentations in the pan...that caused a leak...and it was just a matter of time. I've used RTV...and no RTV...and there is really no difference. I keep spending money....and am waiting for a Moroso pan...with a billet flange, that shouldn't flex when I install the pan bolts at the recommended 10 ft lbs. My thought is that, for flexible pans, the manufacturer really should be supplying braces, as I have on my oil pan, to prevent pan warping and bolt indentation that causes leaks persistently. Also bought a neoprene Moroso gasket...and will be installing it without rtv/sealant, so it can be reused whenever I open up the pan again. Honestly...these large transmission are a pain in the ass, in regard to leaks from the pan. I'm hoping to have found the best solution. Will know in a few weeks.
Thanks Joe, I hope that works. Thanks for sharing with everyone.
What we as customers/ users of Felpro gaskets, and I have used and sold them since 1978, is why, I mean why don't they make the silicone gaskets with the steel reinforcement and anti compression sleeves for the transmission pans of all the popular American transmissions that are used in performance applications? Or more models of engines for the valve covers?
That's a great question. The market probably isn't big enough.
I've seen videos recently where guys are recommending spreading petroleum jelly over the the cork gaskets . what are your thoughts on this ?
If the manufacturer does not recommend it, I wouldn't do it.
I had no clue about those tabs. Been doing it wrong for years.
Always something new to learn
Is the blue side supposed to go on the block? One side of the gasket has blue and the other does not. Does it matter?
It should match the surface. It may go either direction
how do you get the cork gasket soft ??
it should come that way
How long would I have to wait to drive the car once the job is done?
Maybe an hour or so
Easiest way by far, install temporary studs made from long bolts with head cut off. Install the gasket over the studs, install the cover, or component, install bolts and remove studs. No chance of damaging gasket and all bolt holes line up.
Thanks
If available, I tossed the cork gaskets into the trash bin and got the metal rail gaskets with rubber lining.
Did that on my 327 Chevrolet valve covers and never had another leak.
I did the same
Why do people use silicone sealant & or Grease/Vaseline?
Everyone has a preference or way they think is best
Cork gaskets use Gasgacinch or Indianhead Shellac. Seals cork gasket pores.
Interesting
Sealing is not required. The purpose of those glues is threefold:
1. Adhere the gasket to the cover so that it comes off with the cover and doesn't leave pieces on the engine surface.
2. Keeps the gasket in place during installation. Despite the locking tabs, the gaskets may fall out under their own weight. 6 cylinder valve covers are notorious. The oil pan rail gaskets on this engine fit under the end seals. They must be glued into place when replacing the pan in the car. Good video topic 👍
3. Reduce gasket "drift" during tightening. V-8 intake manifold end gaskets are notorious. The Ford small block V-8 (cousin to this 6 cyl) is notorious since those surfaces are machined. The OEM gaskets were glued in place; you had to chisel them off.
I liked the Indian Head because it had an Indian head on the bottle. It smells cool, like something illegal. My boss at the gas station in the '70's liked 3-M Weatherstrip Adhesive. It tacks quickly, but stays somewhat pliable so it's fairly easy to remove. It is also compatible with the cork-rubber gaskets.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Bill
Often called corkprene. A combination of cork and neoprene.
Interesting, thanks!
I used fel pro cork gasket on 1978 Chrysler and it is leaking. Did everything manufacturer said to do
Is the valve cover straight?
@@PetesGarage yes.
Hello, I bought those and installed with no sealant. it is leaking a little oil in the bottom of both sides. Should I remove and put some Permatex Sealant liquid? Fel pro vs 13379
I would put some sealant on them and don't over-torque
Thanks 😊.I am a towel from South Park. If you like this comment send me a stupid ❤ Pete.
You're a towel
Cork gaskets absolutely SUCK.
They were used for many decades
@@PetesGarage Lots of things were used for many decades before improved versions were invented.