Toyota "New Year's" Time Machine...STALLS when HOT? (Part 1 - 1987 MR2)
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- Hey 2023 isn't over quite yet... have any popcorn left after the Audi Christmas Marathon?
We have time for one more CRAZY case study on another old quirky computerized car :)
After a year-long restoration, this 1987 Toyota "Time Machine" MR2 actually runs and drives pretty well...
It made it no-issues 6 HOURS on the highway to my shop!
BUT as soon as you come to a stop, it STALLS OUT and is extremely difficult to restart.
Owner has tried everything to fix this issue, including getting a tune-up by a "Toyota Master Technician". Obviously didn't help!
Let's start from scratch and dive in to the world of early fuel injection, vacuum lines, flash codes, and NO SCAN DATA!
This might take a while...
ASTRO DVOM:
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ASTRO AMP CLAMP:
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AMAZING TEST LIGHT:
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Enjoy!
Ivan
analog odometer - actual GAUGES. I love it - I'm gonna cry. The best part- witnessing this awesome troubleshooting session. Massive respect for the way he's intelligently and with purpose, going through everything step by step. No wild guesses and no just throwing new parts at the thing. Thank you for making these vids.
The first thing I thought of was the cold start injector staying open. I repaired many surging, rich running Yodas by replacing the CSI temp switch. I haven’t thought about those for at least 25-years.
The Mr.2 ! Can’t tell you how much fun those cars were….
This man can literally fix anything 👍👍👍👍
Years ago I discovered you, I had a broken leg, I was watching sma at the time. So I searched your channel. Loved it ever since and I appreciate your holiday shows.
Thanks.
I use to Import these MR2's Mk1 it to the UK, little pocket rockets and drive like they was on rails such fun. 10 plus I never ever had a problem with one, bearing in mind I'm selling these for a living and sold with 12 month warranty. Not once did I have a claim. The only time I had a customer come to me was when her one was hit by someone else, the body shop repaired it but the paint didn't match they told her it was because the paint had aged. She was aware that I did a repair to passenger door, they would not expect that but insurance company was happy to let me take care of it and if customer was happy, then body shop had to pay me costs.😂😂
I know that Ivan will figure it out. As always! Ivan is the master of automotive diagnostics. Knowledge + logic + tenacity = fixed car!
I had a 85 MR2 race car that got wrecked. I think I still have the engine computers from the car and spares.
By the way, the car was a blast to drive. One of the things that made the car fun was the lightened flywheel which allowed it to rev that much quicker. Getting the engine in and out is a real pain, though.
I got a $100 bill on corrosion in the ECU, either from water intrusion or bad electrolytic capacitors. First thing I would have done was open to that up and looked at it!
Don't ask questions you don't want the answers to :-)
Hey Ivan, one thing to note on these cars is that if the wax pellet on the throttle body is not functional, you will get a high idle all the time. They use a thermostatic idle air valve. Surging can be caused by the vehicle reaching operating temp, at which point the ECU will enable fuel cut if it sees RPMs above 1600 and the IDL circuit on the TPS is closed, like it should be, resulting in a hunting/loping idle as the ecu constantly cuts fuel. I believe this is decel fuel cut for coasting/no load, foot off the pedal, not the ECU trying to meet a desired RPM. Ran into this issue on my 89. Sourced a TB off an older car. Cold idle around 2300 and comes down to around 750 warm. Don't know if this will help, but just some info.
Close…the surging is caused by the ECU cutting fuel with the idle circuit of the TPS engaged as it should never reach 1600 rpm (normal idle speed is 800 to 850 rpm). Once the rpm drops, the fuel cut is disengaged, causing the RPM to rev again. Repeats. If you disconnect the TPS and the surging stops, confirms this is what is happening. The fuel cut is a safety to prevent the engine speed from running away (over revving) when the idle circuit is engaged. The ECU does not control idle speed, but does respond to it if it is too high AND the TPS believes the throttle body butterfly valve is closed. And, you are absolutely correct in that the fuel injectors are shut off entirely when deaccelerating or no load conditions (a/f ratio will go off scale lean as confirmation).
Thanks for the explanation, I knew the ECU was able to interdict but never understood exactly why it did so in relation to the IDL circuit. Makes a lot of sense. Early EFI can be real tricky, so many variables built in and on some not a ton of info. Also disconnecting TPS is how I identified the problem forgot to mention that. Thanks again.
@@RoastedPhoenix975 you’re welcome. This car taught me a lot about vehicles and control systems. It still works perfectly on my MR2.
Cold idle should be less than 1200, wonder what causes anything higher. Is it that IAC valve? I have cleaned it and throttle body on my 03 Avalon, I guess next I will remove the IAC and bench test it?
@@tomblobasjamesc.mccollum1740 not sure who you are asking, but the first generation MR2 does not use an IACV in the modern sense…it idles considerably higher than 1200 rpm when cold.
Great to see (and hear) my favorite engine on my favorite car repair channel! Such a lovely way to welcome the new year :) Used to work on a naturally-aspirated 4A-GE myself a bit over a decade ago, brings up some memories.
Very interesting car! Amazing how you shift gears and go back to old school troubleshooting without batting an eye.....
EGR may be hanging open mechanically. I remember on early EGR engines the valve would open only when throttle was opened so far via ports in the throttle body. There were no vacuum solenoids or switches. Cant wait to you sniff this one out!
Holy cow I haven't seen one of those since, I don't remember. I worked at Toyota in 80 when fuel injection, front wheel drive and timing belts first came out, what a nightmare. What I do remember every 15k miles we did an O2 service, take the O2 out, clean it put it back in and shut the light off. There was a switch under the dash that would trip every 15k. Starting with the black stuff in the tail pipe check the coolant temp sensor if it's off it will run rich, you may have to take the plugs and O2 sensor out and clean them, also the mass air flow meter, VAF sensor, has a door inside that moves that turns on the fuel pump relay, circuit opening relay, that turns on the fuel pump and controls the amount of fuel to the injectors if the intake or exhaust system is compromise at low rpm's that door may actually close and turn off the fuel pump. Another thing that comes to mind is the crank sensor in the dist. The idle might come down to low and the signal drops out, also if the thermostat stuck open it's going to run cool also rich and since you're going to take out the O2 sensor to clean it check for back pressor the cat may be partially clogged with soot forcing exhaust back into the cylinder. If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
What a way to ring in the new year with a time machine ! 😂 Got to love a barn find. Very worthy of getting back on the road !
Oh wow! These bring me back to the early 90’s. Those engines are like a popsicle stick bridge….any one part that’s failing and the whole system falls apart. This one should be a blast. My money is on a vacuum line leak causing EGR to act up.
You always amaze me Ivan…your one smart cookie.
I would be checking the EGR system. I was waiting for you to break out the Sears Penske Automotive Analog engine analyzer like my dad had. 🤣🤣
Mine did, too. Complete with a timing light. I now have it. Thanks, Dad!
@@jumpinjojo Yes also have the timing light. That's when a tune up was points plugs condenser. Then set the dwell and timing.
@@billziegmond4943 Oh yes. The good old days!! I have 2 old Mopars. I converted them to electronic ignition, so I don’t need the old engine analyzer anymore. Just an adjustable timing light to set base and total timing.
Its pretty cool that you have been tossed a few older 80' - 90's vehicles with the early fuel injection systems. I have a 1990 Mazda Miata with a lot of similar engine management control's that i am completely rebuilding, so i will know what to look for if i run into these issues. Keep the early cars coming! Happy holidays.
Sigh, this is just like the typical GM TBI nightmare! We have had some hot idle problems caused by the IAC, but it's just so lovely how every problem could be caused by every part! I sure hope you managed to get that computer apart and inspect it, because its condition is very suspicious. At this point you should have a microscope for board inspections 😅
I’m sure ivan has been busted using the Ophthalmic test tools a few times. Fingerprints are easy to spot on lab instruments…😮
The ECU’s on these cars are very reliable, though can fail with age. That said, I don’t believe this is an ECU issue, as the idle speed is not even controlled by the ECU.
@@reneneron2971 Maybe I missed but but I am surprised Ivan didn't scope the injectors. I was thinking that an ECM failure here would somehow cause incorrect or insufficient fuel to be injected and that's why it dies, not due to insufficient air.
@@jessicav2031 a bad injector certainly could be a problem, but it would not just be at idle. The ECU controls the fuel being injected by measuring the air fuel ratio (or relying on the base map). On this engine, the idle circuit simply bypasses air around the butterfly valve…more air (and resulting fuel) increases idle speed. On modern engines, the ECU can directly control the idle speed, adjusting it as needed as the load on the engine changes (a/c compressor on/off, alternator load changing, etc.). On the 4AGE, activating the a/c compressor engages an “idle up” VSV that introduces a controlled vacuum leak (more air), increasing the idle speed (shown on the diagram in the video). Crude, but it works.
@@reneneron2971 Sure, but a failing ECM could easily result in some kind of incorrect injection pulsing which varies based on conditions 😀
What would I test next? I'd test a couple martinis and then think about all those vac controlled analogue systems.
Yup. When I had to work on these old cars, the first thing I did was do a vacuum test on all the diaphragm components and vacuum hoses. It isn't uncommon to find one or two of them leaking. You have to watch out for the ones that have a built-in bleed orifice. Rare, but a possibility.
Hi Ivan the first thing I would check is making sure that the EGR is actually closed, when the car is cold and in an enriched state a leak there doesn't make a lot of difference.
Holy Cow Ivan!! THAT takes me back. I had an 86 MR2 back in the late 80's, and it was such fun to drive. Performance was lackluster, and didn't do all that well on t he autocross course, which was a huge surprise! Too much body roll, could have used stiffer suspension and sway bars to make up for the lack of power. Still, it was an awesome little car, and I'm glad I had one for a while. You get to play with ALL the cool toys.
As information, a 2AR swapped 86 MR2 dominated the autocross event (fastest car) at Toyota Nationals this year. Nixspeed Racing. Oldest car there. The 86 MR2 came with front and rear sway bars; the MK1b (like Ivan’s) dropped the rear sway bar to reduce the propensity for snap oversteer inherent in a short wheelbase, mid engine car.
@@reneneron2971 Yeah, I could tell it had the fundamentals of becoming a great track car, but mine was rock stock. Remember, this was 88-89, and the government and insurance companies were colluding to do everything they could to destroy any type of serious performance options, and protect us self destructive mortals from ourselves.
@@JohnnieBravo1 I have all 3 MR2’s. The latest is the best handling, but the AW11 is still a blast.
What a holiday gift! I have one of these! I have a theory that the spring in the mechanical airflow meter stretches over time. You'll also find that there's a contact in the AFM that cuts power to the fuel pump ("FC" signal) in a stall or accident situation, when the flap closes past a certain threshold. People also used to like adjusting the AFM for "moar powah". If the tension on the spring isn't correct, it could affect the AFR, or the flap may be entering the fuel cut region when it's not supposed to.
Back in 1991 I bought a new Camry DX. It had an issue of stumbling at shift, which under moderate throttle, resulted in it shifting, stumbling, downshifting over and over. It spent a month at the dealership. They would drive it hard, and and not stumble at full throttle. I told them I'm not going to accelerate at full throttle all the time in traffic. They installed a restrictor on the EGR which did nothing. Finally, I cut a small piece of electrical tape and put it over the EGR vacuum connector and put the vacuum line over it. I had 23 years and 252,000 miles of perfect operation.
it’s honestly amazing just how advanced gm was back in this era i have a 1991 gmc k2500 and a 1982 corvette and having the old snap on scanner from the obd1 days has been so helpful as gm has live data available and was one of the first to do this it enabled me to get the vet and truck running so efficiently that i got compliments when i did emissions tests because they run so well the sad thing is the sensors we can get today are no longer reliable so these cars days are very limited and the knowledge to work on them is less available as everyone is working newer stuff it is really amazing just how far we have come
After checking timing, i would check for vacuum leaks…as you showed, almost every control system was a vacuum hose on these cars, and it is nearly 4 decades old. Any vacuum leak is a major problem,, particularly at idle (maximum vacuum), since it will bypass the AFM. You can conveniently isolate all the control vacuum sources at the top of the throttle body for diagnostic purposes.
Ivan, so excited to see you working on the MR2. I have a MK1a (1986) and also a second and 3rd generation. This was one of the first mass market cars to use a dual overhead cam, 4 valves per cylinder, with a computer controlled ignition and EFI…in 1985. The one you have is a later model MK1b, the vast majority being t-tops. The one you are servicing is a very rare hardtop.
On the TPS, the idle circuit is essentially a switch so that the ECU knows when it should be idling. Setting that correctly is the most important thing. The car idles quickly using a “waxstat” that holds the thottle open slightly (physically, not using the ECU), so bypasses the normal idle circuit altogether when cold. The screw (vertical) on the TB usually doesn’t need to be adjusted, but simply regulates air bypassing the butterfly valve…the screw was sealed in wax at the factory.
It is a single wire oxygen sensor…no heater. It takea awhile to heat up and go into closed loop. Don’t forget that this car uses a distributor…base timing still has to be set manually (with the dagnostic terminals shorted as you did in the beginning), and you still have “old school” problems such as a cracked distributor cap, a worn cap rotor, bad terminals in the cap, and worn out spark plugs wires. The distributor is horizontal and just above the exhaust manifold so gets cooked (exacerbated by being a mid engine car). The ECU controls the timing ADVANCE, and will default to the base map (limp mode) if other faults are present, including a non functioning oxygen sensor. The flashing fault code (8) likely prevented the ECU advancing the timing, impacting engine performance. I hope you get to drive the car…a very engaging experience versus a modern car.
These have a very odd engine management system by modern standards. Cold idle air bypass is controlled via a waxstat that closes off the bypass as the coolant warms up. There is a manual adjustment for hot idle speed, it's possible that requires adjusting.
The ignitor boxes (ignition coil amplifier) can develop a failure that's only seen as everything gets warm, so check for spark.
Also the PCM uses electrolytic capacitors which are known to fail and cause driveability issues so you might need to persuade those screws out.
We started with the computerized feed back carburetors in the late 70's early 1980's. Pre fuel injection. Dig out your old dwell meter if one of those shows up. LOL Great watching you on the old school stuff. Your learning how we did it back in the days. Flashing codes, OMG ancient history. But we had points ignition and an occasional generator not alternator, still show up.
lotta tryagnostic part changing in the 80s... parts manufacturers made bank!!!
I just wanted to say that I am a new subscriber and I am thoroughly impressed with your dedication. I am so happy that my Dad recommended your channel to me. I will continue to binge through your videos and look forward to continuing to follow you moving forward.
Hey Ivan. Love your channel. Been watching for years. I've watched The Grove from smaller jobs locally to now where you get people driving from multiple states over just to bring you their car. Obviously you're quality skills are bringing people in from all over the northeast and even west. Or i'm sorry east of the Mississippi. You are so knowledgeable and enjoyable to watch. Take care
I am so glad I just refreshed my content! Thanks Ivan! 🇺🇸
With the amount of carbon on the exhaust tips, you could have an EGR pintle not seating. The telltale is the engine dying after revving or poor idle after rev. Thats my guess.
Besides my great uncles stepdaughters 1997 model Ford EL Falcon which is Australian made & there was high resistance in the generic engine immobilizer/car alarm which was causing a similar stalling issue a 1988 model Holden VL Commodore which we were driving & ran the Nissan RB30E engine which was also fitted into the Australian built Nissan R31 Skyline had a bad ignition coil which was causing the problem.
The primary coil resistance was something like 10 Ohms or something when it was supposed to be 0.9 Ohms,the problem was it would drive o.k. on the open road but once we got into the city it kept stalling & it was hard to start,it was also fouling up the spark plugs.
I got it to fail in the shed at home & I just happened to have a coil for it so I slipped it in & the problem was fixed.
I built a Nissan RB30DE engine a few years later for another VL Commodore & it ran the Nissan R33 Skyline GTS ECU & RB25DE engines cylinder head, injectors & ignition coils, they sold me a dud ECU which was causing a code 13 fault which was for the mass airflow sensor,it wouldn't rev past 2000 RPMs & it fouled up the spark plugs, it was caused by a faulty ECU.
My late grandparents had a stalling issue in their 1983 model Holden VH Commodore which ran the 173 cubic inch (2.85 litre) Holden six,yes,it ran a Holden engine & the ignition module went bad which was causing a stalling issue while they were driving it.
The mechanic just replaced the whole distributor in the then 30 year.old car ,in the MR2s case if it's not an EGR, high resistance problem such as low voltage to the ECU or ignition system a bad ignition coil, or air leaks if the ECU has had water intrusion then it may be faulty.
I replaced the ECU in my mothers old 2000 model Toyota Corolla which she drove into flood water because it was submerged in brackish water but we sold the car a few weeks ago !
What an engineering marvel! I almost bought one.
These early computerized Cars are a such a complicated headache compared to the modern stuff where we basically have no vacuum system, everything is directly controlled trough the control modules and all components can be "talked" to, there are many tests you can run and fault codes are a good lead most times or just spot on. My car is from 2007 and its already lightyears ahead of what we see here, even the wastegate actuator is not vacuum controlled and already an electronic actuator instead.
Still a great car thats worth preserving but man I just want to rip everything out and throw a standalone ECU in there 😅
With that miss it developed after getting up to temp I would check the igniters. Cheers mate as I predicted you will get a lot ofolder hard to daignose vehicles come your way now happy hunting.
Your notes are like second to einstiens chalk board ! But the clue is its running rich ! I prob would have checked exhaust back pressure first ! I dont hypothize but im sure you will figure it out ! ❤ your channel !
Glad to find someone else checks carb screw turns the same way I do.
Or FI setting screws. Sorry.
Sorry. FI setting screws.
AWESOME PROCEDURAL TECH ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️...
I think I would have a vacuum gauge connected to intake manifold. A lot can be told from this. Fluxuating needle could help identify misfire, compression issues at different operating conditions and so on.
You can tell a lot about something by how much it sucks...
Initial D was my first thought when i saw the car lol . I appreciate your videos . I had a Toyota that was given to me that had idle problems and would just die sometimes . I drove it for a while and finally had enough and bought another TDI Jetta . I missed the torque. Predictable power and mileage, always idled the same ..Gave the Toyota to a guy and said no warranty on this thing lol
I would check of a leak in the hoses and intake with a smoke machine since the injectors are running lean which can cause the rough running/ warm idle shutdown, also test the exhaust for excess backpressure due to a faulty caty
Interesting case.. Waiting for part 2.series
The idle switch in the tps throws the system into fuel cut. You’ll get some major surging especially going down a hill when it’s staying closed too long.
I know from experience the separate cold start injector can cause problems. Great cars though. 23:52 it's peeing on your floor. :P
Those ported vacuum switches used to aggravate me. Especially if someone has been messing with the vacuum lines and hooked them up wrong. They do fail too, not opening or closing when they're supposed to.
Awesome " Restoration " please post who does this great work.
I keep an old analog meter like a Simpson 260 to test TPS.
Bad sensors would slightly jump around even drop to zero for a split second, something not detectable on any digital meter. But a scope would see it too.
Happy New Year and Merry Christmas Ivan. It seems like you have found your niche in the market diagnosing and repairing vintage vehicles The stuff that nobody else wants to work on that own regular shops because of how time-consuming it is congratulations this is a fantastic market and makes for great video content keep it up brother Best wishes to you and your family.
Great show
Brings back memories from high school. My buddy had an mr2 and I had the Pontiac fiero
Im leaning towards egr issue or one of the vacuum valves.
Maybe a smoke test to see if it all intact?
Another blast from the past, to end the year in glory :-)
That engine computer seems very rusty (probably inside too). Too many uncontrolled variables, with analog automation in idle. You're in for another puzzle, Ivan :-)
I would check the thermostat as well. but also check the fuel flow to but also check the throttle body or carb as well it may need a good cleaning
My last old car with “won’t idle when hot”. Was a simple heat shield breakdown so fuel was evaporating enroute. Took a while to diagnose.
Ivan is awesome!
I had a 92' Corolla GLI with the 4AGE engine, that throttle position sensor is a PITA to get properly adjusted, if you dont get it right that thing will buck like a bronco transitioning from idle to higher RPM and back down.
Worked a lot on these machines back in the mid-90’s. Not the funnest thing to change the timing belt on
Goodmorning and goodnight ,i will watch it asap in the morning 😂
Thanks Ivan for this extra episode
Clean inside distributor. Measure vacuum value. Clean trotlebody. Plug gap. Fuel pressure.:)
The EGR valve has no vacuum at idle which is good, but the valve itself might be sticking open. It does seem to stall after a snap accel, which could indicate it's not closing right away.
Great diagnostics as usual Ivan. I have owned 2 89 AW11S an N/A and an S/C. I loved driving both, they are akin to gokarts on steroids (especially the S/C).
I'm looking forward to the next video to see who the actual culprit is/are.
FYI, block off EGR valve with small ball bearing.😊
I had pop-up headlights on my 1988 Honda Accord. It was their last year.
Thank you Ivan for publishing
Much appreciated, Robert! Part 1 was just a warm up for the "OBD1 brain" haha :)
Lucky me!!! I am just removing the engine out of a 1988 right now someone start the Egr delete process glad to have this video for reference
Had an 85 MRII. Same problem dealer couldn't fix it. When warm weather came I just adjusted the idle screw to increase idle speed. Car lasted for 20 years.
Ha ha, I wrecked a new MR2 on a test drive in 1987. Totally the other "driver's" fault. I was still shaking while test driving a new Camaro after. Then drove and bought a Mazda MX6.
Always loved the early MR2s. It's what Fiat should have done with the X1/9.
By the time FIAT turned over full production duties to Bertone in 1982 (which heretofore had just been manufacturing the body/chassis), sales of the then-10-year old X1/9 had tapered off and it was essentially selling at "coachbuilt" car numbers, and mostly in the USA. Such low sales could not justify the investment $$$ it would have taken to certify the car for USA sales with, for example, the UNO turbo engine (146.Ax series), or the 182.A4 generation of Lampredi's SOHC (which by then had gained a DOHC head). The X1/9 chassis was always able to support more engine than FIAT gave it---well-done K20+transaxle swaps are amazingly capable pocket rockets.
I bought a three year old one here in England back in 1986, beautiful handling until the rear subframe decided to detach itself. They should have spent some money and brought out a successor, not wait many years and go FWD with the Barchetta.@@SomeRandomHuman717
I would check the cold start injector, if it is leaking and spraying fuel all the time it can throw everything off and would make the engine appear to be running lean when it is actually rich. To be honest I have never worked on that engine but I have spent a lot of time working on the engines that came in all of the pickups from the little 22re to the 4.0 on the newer versions so I am not sure that motor even has the fifth injector but I imagine it does since Toyota loved that system.
That Caig stuff is magical!
I'm enjoying this troubleshoot. I have a T-topper, '87 blue just like this one, without the molested hood, and a ton of parts including a complete engine & transaxle. Been sitting for 2 years. Garage stored for last 10 years. Now it won't start. Haven't had time to deal with it. Hoping Ivan finds the SILVER BULLET
I'm reminded of my former long gone beloved fully loaded 1985 Camry. Put almost 220K on that car. I wonder where the old gal is now?
Would be probing all the pins that still look corroded on ecu, love the content
these were basically an upgraded clone of the fiat x-19 that came a decade earlier. pita to work on. vacuum operated smog crap was always fun. best thing was to unhook everything but the map sensor if it ran good plug one thing in at a time to see what was wrong. if not running good start at the distributor while keeping an eye on fuel pressure.
Another excellent testing rig
Looking at that computer and age of the car, I think Intel made the 486 chip until 2004 even though the Pentium 586s came out in 1995 I think. The market was for car computer modules. Who knows what's in that thing. Maybe a 286? Hahaha 🤣 BTW, older chips do have one advantage - trace size. That means they are less likely to burn out. So older chips tend to get used in space missions because they are more robust against charged particles and rays bombarding the spacecraft.
However, the other reason older chips get used for space is because it takes a long time to go from drawing board to launch.
I really doubt it is x86, but it could easily be an 8048 or variant. Motorola was also popular in the 80s and 90s for embedded applications. Back then everything was bare metal microcontrollers, no RTOS. The GM TBI ECM was even a custom MCU with a unique set of extra instructions just for GM. Wouldn't surprise me if Toyota did something similar.
That's why I was kind of joking even with 286. When this car came out, it wasn't too long after the 286's. Those were probably way too expensive, and overkill in terms of processing power, for this application.
Not my pased I remember like it was yesterday good car old Toyotas ❤
I would love to have that thing 🤩
This is like that XJS with the high idle problem you fixed, bad wax idle valve.
You need to get into the engine computer, it's been wet. My 1987 Audi coupe quattro would not idle when warm due to water damage in the idle control module. A resistor was corroded away, I made a rough guess as to the value and it worked great after. Also need to confirm the vacuum system components, 40 years of perished rubber !!!
Gave away the answer at the end. EGR is open at idle and it shouldn't be.
Thanks Ivan!
Computer is suspect due to corrosion.
I would let the car cool down, and use a heat gun just on the computer to see if at initial start up it does the exact same thing without having to wait for it to warm up
Excellent. Happy New Year!
Smoke it.... check IAC and EGR and clean if needed
6 hrs without cruise!
I’d be checking for vacuum leaks.
Is there a vacuum advance diaphragm or something linked to the auto choke, seems a bit like tickover jets blocked, fuel starvation at tickover, works when cold because choke is letting in extra fuel from other jets perhaps? You could try manually squirting fuel in when warmed up, if that keeps it going it has to be something with the tickover/ low rpm fuel supply. You said it seemed to run lean so it can't be choking out. Might be a combo of 2 things, some sort of fuel blockage at least. Some cars have a tiny fuel filter inline with the fuel supply but it's hidden in the unions that connect to the carb or injector system where the fuel pipe arrives.
One more long shot. Check if the computer has a memory battery that might have died or low supply voltage.
Don't think this car is equipped with "jets"...just regular fuel injectors :)
I lusted after these when they where new. I offered one of my customers $$ to buy her pristine white supercharged manual mr2, but no beans. Very difficult to find today, most are trashed or worthless rustbuckets.
Thanks!
Thank you and happy new year! 🙂
I've been. I've been watching your channel. Grow for yours and I totally appreciate what you have been doing. I don't know if I was out of line by asking for a eight-channel Pico fund razor, but I think you're due and I think you deserve it. Let's see what happens
The hoses to the wax pellet throttle body were also prone to clogging restricting flow, as were the coolant pipes to the radiator at the front. Could be lot's of thing's at this stage. Not a nice car work on .......... "back breaker" would be the term I would use.
Had one, fun car to drive, reliable Toyota Corolla drive train
30:01 Leaf blower engaged.
i had the supercharged version of the same car, one of the cars i wished i never sold....
I had a customer with an MR2 years ago when this car was new and it never did give any problems. I don't know; I had a Lincoln Mark VII that wouldn't idle either back-in-the-day. The throttle position sensor was nothing more than a rheostat with a wiper arm. You would sit at a red light and the idle would just start surging and die. No one could tell me what the problem was. The TPS was adjustable and I got to messing with it and the idle smoothed right out. Turns out the wiper arm in the TPS had a dead spot and the computer would just go nuts. I replaced the TPS and it idled just fine after that. The MR2 was quite similar to the Pontiac Fiero in design, however it was much better mechanically. Seems like the Fiero had the Chevette front suspension and the Citation front suspension and engine mounted at the rear. I have actually driven across Pennsylvania on I-80 to I-81 through New York and then through Connecticut and it's every bit of 6 hours. GREAT VIDEO!
That engine sounds like my Yamaha Waverunner.
Smoke machine to the rescue!