Personally don’t like the bead around the outside, I’d run it around the outer of the hole before screwing back. And don’t see the point in conduit if you’re using twin, just additional time that’s got to be factored in and more material you’re carrying on the van.
@@danwoodward7738 to be fair to the lad he has done a good job (though I'll be back in a year to see if that CT was watertight lol). But (knew it was coming!) more and more customers now see stuff on here and can't understand there are perfectly good alternatives.
About the only thing I do different is fill up a ll the dead space at the back of the box with waterproof caulk instead of outline it. If it's outlined then one bit of it comes off and can condensate inside the box even with the fittings. Still bang up I would be happy to come at the back of work like this.
Overkill with the conduit, CT1 sandwich around the cable hole at the back of the box, would have been enough to water proof it, , but for the purpose of the video, nice👍🏻
People wanting an outdoor socket fitted for £80 supply and fit , good luck doing the job extras for that . Handymen and apprentices doing jobs for buttons and undercutting everyone.
meanwhile in other side of the globe, another "great" electrician install regular indoor wall socket outdoor, claiming I didn't include videos of him using silicon seal
Ring mains are old fashioned and not needed. 2.5mm twin and earth with a 15amp rcbo or breaker will be fine. 2.5mm2 twin and earth can carry 24 amps or more before it starts to melt, so is fine in a 15amp radial or spur.
It is permissible to connect a double socket as a spur on a ring using 2.5mm^2 cable as the maximum load (26A) will not exceed that of the cable. Also, the chance of 2 x 13A continuous loads running is next to zero. Finally, what a lot of people don't know is that the BS1363 only requires that a double socket can sustain a combined load of 20A over an extended period (read hours) without overheating. However, I doubt that any but a tiny, tiny minority of householders are aware of that. Of course this double socket might be on a 16A or 20A radial, or connected via a 13A fused spur indoors, in which case the issue does not arise anyway.
@@ajthegreat2006 final rings are extremely useful. I find having a 32A circuit in my kitchen very practical when I have a considerable number of powerful appliances that I might plug into random sockets. That's 3kW electric kettle, 4 slot toaster, large "air fryer", combination microwave and so on, without even thinking about the washing machine and dish washer. It's a flexible and cost-effective thing to do, and you don't need to worry about nuisance trips though which you might get with two separate circuits if you just happen to use the wrong combination of appliances at the same time. For those that don't like final ring circuits, then then a 32A radial on 4mm^2 can be used. Also, where does 15A come into this? Are you still thinking of fuse ratings? A 2.5mm^2 radial will either use a 16A or 20A breaker.
So, just how do you thing cold air is going to blow through an external electrical box like that? It's sealed, and even has a waterproof cover with rubber seals too which which clamp down over the flexible lead from any plug. Also, the wall cavity is going to be full of insulation on any reasonably modern wall, either as originally built, or retro-fitted. Do you not get trained to use brainpower from wherever you come from?
"pro edition" but didn't drill the drain hole. Also absolutely no point in that conduit. Time consuming,and offers no real advantage, mechanically or aesthetically. I do like the WD-40 trick though 👍
@@jameshansing5396 Rodent's can't get in. Don't be ridiculous. That's a masonry wall, and any rodent is going to have to chew its way through an electrical box, and try and get through a 20mm conduit occupied by a cable, and if they try and chew through that, they will get electrocuted. Also, that conduit doesn't even go through the whole double-skinned wall and cavity anyway. There are millions of installations like this, and rodents simply don't get through. There are other ways they might get in, but not that way. Also, where is this thing about debris due to building decay? That's a masonry cavity wall (both inner and outer walls). Just where is this "building decay" going to happen? From the look of the wall, it's probable age and the masonry drill used, it's a brick outer wall and the inner wall is going to be aerated concrete building blocks (often called thermalite). You clearly haven't got any idea of how such a wall is built.
@@TheEulerID thing is, the blokes trying to do a good job. Whether he’s thinking of debris or even not running it straight through insulation which you seem to think is ok.. but there’s always a pr*ck like you who has to bash people for trying to do a good job. The conduit does no harm, does it? Maybe it’s you who needs a bashing ? A proper one
I always drill the bottom holes first. I make sure that way no brick/concrete dust from the top could erase the mark
Personally don’t like the bead around the outside, I’d run it around the outer of the hole before screwing back. And don’t see the point in conduit if you’re using twin, just additional time that’s got to be factored in and more material you’re carrying on the van.
Isn't that the point though? Gotta add all the pointless shit in to bill the customer another hour
I call it the artisan electric touch
Aw fuck a just came here to say the same thing lol
Drain hole!!!
Nicely done, but the regs dont need that condy thru the wall and the silicone ring around the 20mil cutout makes sure the important bit is watertight.
Codes are always minimums, good on him for going above and beyond.
@@alexanderwrightman9690 *minima. It's great to do top notch work, but it's not free and you'll price yourself out of jobs unnecessarily
Can't win on CZcams. People moaning you done too good a job.😂
@@danwoodward7738 to be fair to the lad he has done a good job (though I'll be back in a year to see if that CT was watertight lol). But (knew it was coming!) more and more customers now see stuff on here and can't understand there are perfectly good alternatives.
I just drill a hole in the bottom so it never fills up
If the box if IP rated you don’t need to silicone around it. If it’s anything like showers, using silicone actually voids the warranty on the product.
Not a fan of Silicone around an IP rated socket but really like the conduit through the wall.
Have you ever used the click mode ip sockets. Really rwally nice to install.
Excellent workmanship
Nice to see someone doing a proper job
About the only thing I do different is fill up a ll the dead space at the back of the box with waterproof caulk instead of outline it. If it's outlined then one bit of it comes off and can condensate inside the box even with the fittings. Still bang up I would be happy to come at the back of work like this.
This was executed flawlessly
The only problem I find with them black outdoor sockets the plastic is really flimsy if the brick work ain’t straight it tends to twist
Absolutely. And then the front face doesn't fit properly. Pain in the arse.
Overkill with the conduit, CT1 sandwich around the cable hole at the back of the box, would have been enough to water proof it, , but for the purpose of the video, nice👍🏻
Seal the back in the box then screw it to the wall, you can fill around the cable hole that way also
That sealant looks awful.
Looks fine to me. What's the issue?
Tis fully acceptable. Good job.
That is a job well done 👏
Anyone know what model combi that is?
Perfect 👌
If you drill the drain hole you shouldn’t need the mastic
People wanting an outdoor socket fitted for £80 supply and fit , good luck doing the job extras for that . Handymen and apprentices doing jobs for buttons and undercutting everyone.
Yeah not the best. Silicone around the entire entry point as well as the screw points will guarantee a waterproof finish, especially brickwork.
No drain hole? Won’t last 2 years
That socket is not IP rated.
1-No drain hole
2-No sealant behind the box around the conduit
3-The cover should is not weather tight.
spiders will have no place to live
Nice job tho .❤❤❤
At last. someone using conduit on an IP enclosure where cables run through wall. Silicone should have been clear though.
Why should silicone be clear?
Glad to see a SDS being used not a combi on hammer 😂😂👌👌 that's proper job 👌
A A A A A A A A A A 😮O 😮O OOOOOO😮O😮O😮😮OO😮O
AMAZING Style of work
How come you only showed one side what about the other ?
Absolutely pointless unless you wiring in singles 😂😂😂😂
Just stick it with CT1, no screws needed 😂
I like the way you used conduit through the wall
A A A A A A A A A A A 😮O😮OO😮O😮O😮O😮O😮😮O😮O😮O OOOOOOOOOO
AMAZING Style of work
Perfect work
meanwhile in other side of the globe, another "great" electrician install regular indoor wall socket outdoor, claiming I didn't include videos of him using silicon seal
Overkill with the conduit, bet you only do it for the video
How it should be done
Can I ask how the double socket is installed as a spur using a 2.5mm² cable?
I though that this should be a ring main or a higher rated cable
What??? Another example of if you don't know don't comment for fear of looking stooooooooopid
Ring mains are old fashioned and not needed. 2.5mm twin and earth with a 15amp rcbo or breaker will be fine. 2.5mm2 twin and earth can carry 24 amps or more before it starts to melt, so is fine in a 15amp radial or spur.
lol 😂🤦🏻♂️
It is permissible to connect a double socket as a spur on a ring using 2.5mm^2 cable as the maximum load (26A) will not exceed that of the cable.
Also, the chance of 2 x 13A continuous loads running is next to zero. Finally, what a lot of people don't know is that the BS1363 only requires that a double socket can sustain a combined load of 20A over an extended period (read hours) without overheating. However, I doubt that any but a tiny, tiny minority of householders are aware of that.
Of course this double socket might be on a 16A or 20A radial, or connected via a 13A fused spur indoors, in which case the issue does not arise anyway.
@@ajthegreat2006 final rings are extremely useful. I find having a 32A circuit in my kitchen very practical when I have a considerable number of powerful appliances that I might plug into random sockets. That's 3kW electric kettle, 4 slot toaster, large "air fryer", combination microwave and so on, without even thinking about the washing machine and dish washer. It's a flexible and cost-effective thing to do, and you don't need to worry about nuisance trips though which you might get with two separate circuits if you just happen to use the wrong combination of appliances at the same time.
For those that don't like final ring circuits, then then a 32A radial on 4mm^2 can be used.
Also, where does 15A come into this? Are you still thinking of fuse ratings? A 2.5mm^2 radial will either use a 16A or 20A breaker.
Entry level electrics 😂
Why you commenting negative things on all his videos? Is it because your call of duty videos only get 4 views and you are jealous? 😂
Awwww you have to try and pick on people to make yourself feel good? 😂
@@jameshansing5396pick on people? 😂😂😂😂 his working is spot on can’t even have a laugh now days
Nothing new your diy fellas got similar vide and they are not sparkles 😅
Sparkles...
...is that DIY english
Now cold air blowing in the house through that conduit. Maybe this is UK "standard " but you are technologically half of the century behind Europe
So, just how do you thing cold air is going to blow through an external electrical box like that? It's sealed, and even has a waterproof cover with rubber seals too which which clamp down over the flexible lead from any plug. Also, the wall cavity is going to be full of insulation on any reasonably modern wall, either as originally built, or retro-fitted.
Do you not get trained to use brainpower from wherever you come from?
"pro edition" but didn't drill the drain hole. Also absolutely no point in that conduit. Time consuming,and offers no real advantage, mechanically or aesthetically.
I do like the WD-40 trick though 👍
The conduit is to protect the cable in the cavity 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
@@jameshansing5396 From what? The cavity ought to be dry and, these days, full of insulation anyway.
@@TheEulerID “these days”, plus rodents could get in. The possibility of debris due to building decay?
@@jameshansing5396 Rodent's can't get in. Don't be ridiculous. That's a masonry wall, and any rodent is going to have to chew its way through an electrical box, and try and get through a 20mm conduit occupied by a cable, and if they try and chew through that, they will get electrocuted. Also, that conduit doesn't even go through the whole double-skinned wall and cavity anyway.
There are millions of installations like this, and rodents simply don't get through. There are other ways they might get in, but not that way.
Also, where is this thing about debris due to building decay? That's a masonry cavity wall (both inner and outer walls). Just where is this "building decay" going to happen? From the look of the wall, it's probable age and the masonry drill used, it's a brick outer wall and the inner wall is going to be aerated concrete building blocks (often called thermalite).
You clearly haven't got any idea of how such a wall is built.
@@TheEulerID thing is, the blokes trying to do a good job. Whether he’s thinking of debris or even not running it straight through insulation which you seem to think is ok.. but there’s always a pr*ck like you who has to bash people for trying to do a good job. The conduit does no harm, does it? Maybe it’s you who needs a bashing ? A proper one
You drilled the hole completely horizontal? Moisture will inevitably creep in.