That engine is beautiful, can't wait to get mine going! You might want to raise the level of water in your tank to avoid damage to the water pump impeller...
Once removed, the lower unit should drop down. Some wiggling will be needed. Once dropped, the impeller housing surrounding the driveshaft can be removed...again careful of the SS screws. Heat & penetrating oil will be your friend. Reassemble in reverse order except add greae to all screws and the watertube grommet. Good Luck. Also visit the aomci.org (Antique Outboard Club) and post questions on their free forum...excellent!
Hope you don't mind me saying,, but you stand a better chance of eliminating ~water-pump damage~ if you always fill the water up to cover at least half of the lower steering brackets!!!! This way you don't have to worry when you drop it into forward gear and splash water out from the bucket!!! Cheers!!! Enjoyed watching!!!!
That is a beauty. I would suggest getting a barrel to run motors in. the impeller should be a little deeper in the water. I just aquire a 1956 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5 hp in about the same condition. I pretty much had to do the same things to it. coils, plug wires, waterpump , fuel lines. It turned out nice. I made a couple of videos of it.
I have a 58 that I believe needs coils it runs but drops a cylinder intermittently. Do you have any tips for the job I've never had it apart? Any help would be appreciated
There is a small access plate on the side of the exhaust leg with two screws. Remove the plate to gain access to the "shift linkage." Remove one of the shift linkage bolts the remove the screws (I think there are five?) holding the lower unit to the exhaust leg...carefully. The screws are stainless steel and can easily snap creating a nightmare! I usually like to use a little heat from a propane torch around the metal the screws are tapped into if the screws have not been off.
I have the same motor, and tank. but not in this kind of condition... where can I get the gas pump at? (I cant remember the true name) but its not sending gas unless you use the primer bulb..
No...but you might need to reposition the shifter to reinstall! Be sure the shift rod is fully seated in the linkage before rebolting. Make sure also you replace the rubber o-ring on top the of the drive shaft. Lube the upper splines of the drive shaft with some "moly lube" but do not get any on the top of the shaft.
Hey 1957 Lark hope all is well. i just scored on this exact motor almost in identical condition, i purchased it from an elderly gentleman that had i stored in his garage for the last 25 years or so, well i just replaced lower unit gear seal and water pump kit, carb kit and i'm waiting for a tune up kit it's Tune Up Kit 2 BRP Coils and 2 Spark Plugs J6C, and i'm also replacing the spark plug wires, parts should be arriving tomorrow, i have a question after installing the new ignition parts aside from gaping the points do i need to worry about the timing? would it affect the timing? or is just a straight up remove and replace old parts . Your input is appreciated. Thanks!!
Is this motor located in WA? Train and saltwater were the giveaways. I have the exact same motor in nearly the same condition with a similar story. I plan on using it in a few weeks for the Halibut, Lingcod, Spot Prawn opener. Just replaced points, impeller, carb rebuild, and prop. Good seeing another dandy! Nice work.
The following was taken from Joe Reeves on iBoats: Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns. Setting the high and low needle valves properly: NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment. (High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting. (Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
...the coils are readily available... part number 0584477 Search eBay or list a free post on the Antique Outboard Motor Club Inc...there are lots of guys that have some. AOMCI.org Do your part searching on MarineEngines.com to get part numbers for every part to keep you motor up and running. Remember, Johnson and Evinrude motor of that era are exactly the same...minus some cosmetic shrouds...So the part numbers for a 1958 18HP Johnson and a 1958 18HP Evinrude are the same. Happy Motoring
Hi. I think I have a 57 or 58 Fastwin from my neighbor. He wanted it out of his cabin so I thought I’d put it in my cabin garage but wife said no. I’m looking to sell it. Not get rich but would like to see it go to a good home. Ballpark how much is it worth ? No tank and doesn’t run.
What amazing engineering on these 18's great power to weight ratio! Simply the VERY best!
Those are great little motors. I have a 1960 Fastwin and it runs amazing!
My Christmas present in 1958, I was 12, was a new Evinrude 7.5. Liv’n big!
Best memories I'm sure!!! What amazing engineering on these 18's great power to weight ratio! Simply the VERY best!
One of the best they ever made.
Thanks alot got the impeller working now im converting it to a fuel pump. Thanks again
That engine is beautiful, can't wait to get mine going! You might want to raise the level of water in your tank to avoid damage to the water pump impeller...
Looks like a time capsule almost new. I have a '59 Johnson 10 HP I'm working on. Mine is ugly, yours is pristeen.
Ur gonna love that motor!
Once removed, the lower unit should drop down. Some wiggling will be needed. Once dropped, the impeller housing surrounding the driveshaft can be removed...again careful of the SS screws. Heat & penetrating oil will be your friend. Reassemble in reverse order except add greae to all screws and the watertube grommet. Good Luck. Also visit the aomci.org (Antique Outboard Club) and post questions on their free forum...excellent!
Hope you don't mind me saying,, but you stand a better chance of eliminating ~water-pump damage~ if you always fill the water up to cover at least half of the lower steering brackets!!!! This way you don't have to worry when you drop it into forward gear and splash water out from the bucket!!! Cheers!!! Enjoyed watching!!!!
Great job bud I just bought the same motor got it on a 59 starcraft videos coming soon
Got the fuel pump on works. took it out to the lake today worked great, thanks
and the high speed ajust needle snapped in the motor, and I cant get it out... recommendations?
That is a beauty. I would suggest getting a barrel to run motors in. the impeller should be a little deeper in the water. I just aquire a 1956 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5 hp in about the same condition. I pretty much had to do the same things to it. coils, plug wires, waterpump , fuel lines. It turned out nice. I made a couple of videos of it.
I see you have a test barrel in another video. Nice collection of motors.
I have a 58 that I believe needs coils it runs but drops a cylinder intermittently. Do you have any tips for the job I've never had it apart? Any help would be appreciated
I had the 1958 5 1/2 , a very nice engine
Where can I buy to tool to replace my o rings on my fuel fitting .. I need to ASAP. I just got the same motor. I’m going to be rebuilding it
There is a small access plate on the side of the exhaust leg with two screws. Remove the plate to gain access to the "shift linkage." Remove one of the shift linkage bolts the remove the screws (I think there are five?) holding the lower unit to the exhaust leg...carefully. The screws are stainless steel and can easily snap creating a nightmare! I usually like to use a little heat from a propane torch around the metal the screws are tapped into if the screws have not been off.
wow, that's a nice looking motor
I have the same motor, and tank. but not in this kind of condition... where can I get the gas pump at? (I cant remember the true name) but its not sending gas unless you use the primer bulb..
Very nice motor. I would like to see a video on a boat in the water.
That is a sweet outboard
Do you have any tips for replacing the impeller? I have the same one and its in pretty good condition I had it running but not pumping any water.
Thanks for the reply does it matter what gear the motor is in when you take it apart? Thanks again
what a beautiful motor
Mine never failed me. I used it for years
That's a nice one !!
No...but you might need to reposition the shifter to reinstall! Be sure the shift rod is fully seated in the linkage before rebolting. Make sure also you replace the rubber o-ring on top the of the drive shaft. Lube the upper splines of the drive shaft with some "moly lube" but do not get any on the top of the shaft.
Great job! Post a video when your get a chance!
That is nice!
Hey 1957 Lark hope all is well. i just scored on this exact motor almost in identical condition, i purchased it from an elderly gentleman that had i stored in his garage for the last 25 years or so, well i just replaced lower unit gear seal and water pump kit, carb kit and i'm waiting for a tune up kit it's Tune Up Kit 2 BRP Coils and 2 Spark Plugs J6C, and i'm also replacing the spark plug wires, parts should be arriving tomorrow, i have a question after installing the new ignition parts aside from gaping the points do i need to worry about the timing? would it affect the timing? or is just a straight up remove and replace old parts . Your input is appreciated. Thanks!!
Hi...you probably figured this out by now, but the timing is set by correctly gapping the points. I hope you motor is running.
Is this motor located in WA? Train and saltwater were the giveaways. I have the exact same motor in nearly the same condition with a similar story. I plan on using it in a few weeks for the Halibut, Lingcod, Spot Prawn opener. Just replaced points, impeller, carb rebuild, and prop. Good seeing another dandy! Nice work.
I know this video is a few years old but where do you position your speed dials
The following was taken from Joe Reeves on iBoats:
Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.
Setting the high and low needle valves properly:
NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.
(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.
(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
Cool video. Where did you find the new spark plug coils?
...the coils are readily available... part number 0584477 Search eBay or list a free post on the Antique Outboard Motor Club Inc...there are lots of guys that have some. AOMCI.org
Do your part searching on MarineEngines.com to get part numbers for every part to keep you motor up and running. Remember, Johnson and Evinrude motor of that era are exactly the same...minus some cosmetic shrouds...So the part numbers for a 1958 18HP Johnson and a 1958 18HP Evinrude are the same. Happy Motoring
Where do i get a pressure coupling female end for the gas line
I went to a marina by my house and they say that they have to make it that you cant buy one its a 7.5hp
VERY nice but the idle screw low on fuel line side needs turned in a bit to speed her up.
Could you please tell me where you get parts for this motor?
Post an "ad" on the Antique Outboard'sClub" website... many people have parts you'll need: www.aomci.org/classifieds/
My 28 kicks like that when idling. Drives me nuts. Yours seems straightened out
I think they all kinda kick at idle...as long as not while running WOT
Would love to see it working on your boat.....
I have the same motor , but mine has electric start, Mine is not as nice as yours , but I hope to make it so, yours is great!! kodi
Hi. I think I have a 57 or 58 Fastwin from my neighbor. He wanted it out of his cabin so I thought I’d put it in my cabin garage but wife said no. I’m looking to sell it. Not get rich but would like to see it go to a good home. Ballpark how much is it worth ? No tank and doesn’t run.
I paid $200 for mine... so price accordingly... but mine I would have gone up to $300
That was kinda dum huh