How to Fill in Cracks in Concrete
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2019
- Backer rod: amzn.to/2LMuPsr
Chisel: amzn.to/30UN8Pw
3 lb hammer: amzn.to/2yhhb7M
Knee pads: amzn.to/2K12c8J
1 Year Review Video: • Quikrete Concrete Crac...
In this video I demonstrate how to prepare cracks in concrete to be filled and how to actually fill them so they are water tight.
DISCLAIMER:
This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps support this channel and allows me to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for your support!
Videos produced by Fix It Flip are provided for informational purposes only. All material provided within this video is for informational, educational, & entertainment purposes only. Some of these projects, materials, and techniques may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. Please use all safety precautions while following any instructions or concepts provided by this video. Viewers must be aware that by doing projects on their homes they are doing it at their own risk and Fix It Flip cannot be held liable if they cause any damage to their homes. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to educate themselves on their local codes and regulations before undertaking any sort of project. Always have safety in mind and have fun!
I had similar cracks in the sidewalk. I filled them in with epoxy mixed with sand and then applied a thin layer of concrete to level out the square of broken and unlevel sidewalk. Looks like a new pour and still looks good with no cracks after 2 years.
Sounds like a good plan. Only thing I could see going wrong is that concrete cracking if it all shifts again. Not flexible. But the jury's still out on this Quikrete stuff. I'm going to do a review on it after a year.
what kind of sand?
I have made these repairs professionally for over 40 years. Well done. I have only a few suggestions/comments. 1. The backer rod provides proper depth control and proper profile to the bottom of the sealant. So technically the backer rod needs to fit snuggly. ( this is only a technicality and many professionals will do what you did it will affect sealant performance but in this instance I doubt it will be significant) I understand you do not have a wide selection of backer rod.
2.Since you took the time to get the correct backer and prepped the cracks correctly I would have not used a consumer product but would have used a professional quality sealant made for just such applications like Vulkem45SSL . And I would have primed the joint bonding surfaces.Also while tooling the joint is not mandatory it forces the sealant into contact with the bonding surface. These are the only differences between what you did and a high quality professional installation. These are all pretty nit picky issues. Very well done. After seeing the results after one year it is kinda what I should expected from a consumer product.
Thank you for the input and wisdom!
great vid and super comment - gold star CZcams moment. thanks @gene & @FiF
@@warwickclark2143 No problem!
Good feedback, @Gene Carden. Using this product (not sure if Vulkem45SSL has the same viscosity or not), with it being so "watery", how would one tool it in? Also, to "prime the joint", would that be etching it with muriatic acid?
@@JackJensenTrader The product I mentioned is self leveling. To tool self leveling all you have to do is very lightly run something like an old butter knife down the center.VERY LIGHTLY which will do 2 things. 1 it will make the sealant push a little more against the sides of the joint promoting better adhesion.2 it will make the sealant rise up VERY slightly(it will run right back down) but now the top of the sealant will be very slightly concave instead of slightly convex. I’m talking very slightly raising the sides of the sealant. Basically just breaking the surface tension.
Professional grade sealants have primers specific to the product. Usually an amber liquid, that you apply with a small paint brush( 1/2” chip brush)
Someone mentioned using play sand instead of backer rod. You can also dump play sand on the final layer of filler, let it dry 12 hours, brush away the excess and the final finish looks more like concrete than the dried filler.
Good tip. 👍🏻👍🏻
Make a video
Maybe use the debris you chipped out? Same color!
...weeds will grow
Thank you for the product review and the one year follow up! It’s really great to have the knowledge of different products and be able to make comparisons and decisions of what to use !
No problem!
That stuff is very good. I sealed a crack 3-4 years ago, maybe longer, and it's still holding very nicely.
That's good!
Cheers mate. Been wanting to know the best way to repair a large crack in my patio. Very hot summers here in Australia. Keep up the good work.
Thank you, sir. Hope it works out well for you.
We do this exact method at work,but we also use a primer from BASF that has sulfur in it that etches into the concrete the sealant will never pull up or pull away from either side of the crack when concrete shifts again after winter it’s an amazing product any brickyard carries it👍👍👍
Very interesting. Thanks for the input!
Do you have any links to that product? Are you saying that you lay down the BASF primer first and then put the filler material on top of that?
Great video brother, thanks for sharing hopefully it's still holding up well? Can't wait for the 1 year review
Thank you brother, I appreciate it. Here's my review so far. The stuff does what the bottle says. It says it works on cracks up to a half inch, and it does. All my cracks that are a half inch or so or smaller look good. I pushed it a little and put it in cracks that were about an inch or even a little bigger. Its struggling a bit in those. A few cracks. The drought towards the end of the summer did a number on the big cracks. Full review coming next summer.
I’ve tried them all. slab concrete filler in a tube worked best for me. Going on three years without any issues 👍
Thanks for the tip.
@@fixitFlip use a good commercial quality polyurethane sealant designed for traffic areas .I have many examples that are still in good shape after 20 years or more. (though the sun has bleached the color and lightened it. ) Most of theses examples are public walks that get more foot traffic in one day than a residence gets in 5 years.
@@genecarden780 Great input as always, Gene.
Thank you for the demonstration!
You're welcome!
I would recommend sprinkling some of the dust from the concrete over the repaired cracks to blend it in.
Good tip!
Yeah, great tip!
You're a good thorough worker. I like that!
Thank you, Sharon. I try to be!
thanks for the email regarding filling in the cracks in cement1!! great...very explicit!
No problem!
Fix it Flip mr. Fix it can I have your email to send you a
Picture of my brick step in the porch that have some cracking?
@@kelvynmendez2178 emailirenef7@gmail.com thanks
Have watched multiple crack repair videos; yours is what I am going to use. I am mediocre handy, can’t squat and have an unusual way of trying to get up once I sit or get down: it will probably be a 5 fbomb I for me: multiple cracks need filling:
Thanks for this video!
Glad I could help, Mary Jo. Good luck with the project and I hope you have to have to drop as few F-bombs as possible. lol
I really enjoyed this video because doing my drive way I spent about 100$ and now the crack is up higher the cement moved if I would of known about that filler it would of saved me probably busting up the whole slab of the drive way which is a easy grand dang thank you
Glad I could help!
Interesting stuff! Hopefully this saves me a contractor visit!!
That's the goal! Do it yourself and save the money!
Just what I need.have to try this.thank you.
No problem!
Thanks very good even could follow your instructions 👍
Great, no problem!
I have a poured patio 12' along side of a concrete walk, and the gap is around 3/4". There was tar type material concrete guy put in but it desintergrated. I'm thinking to use a gray type flexible goo. Any ideas what I should do first and and then afterwards? Thank you
I used my leaf blower and forced the cement down further and so I would not need to come back the next day to refill the cracks, That cement crack filler works very well. The bottle is too fat for my hands so I used the red plastic ketchen container and kept filling it up. The ketchup bottle has the prefect neck to it
Did not need to redo very much the next day. Three years later I needed to fill a few areas. after I blew the debri away with the blower. It took me a few minutes to get the leaf blower the prefect speed I needed to force the crack filler in. But using the blower also gets you standing again just in time. I also used the car roller to ease around and put my stuff on the shelf of car roller. And then you can use the blower if it gets hot. Three ways to use that one tool. Every crack you get on a slab can be traced back to water is causing it. So I find that problem so no more cracks. Maintaince 101 thanks for the video
Very cool tricks. Thanks for the input. Always love hearing new ideas!
Yo. Great info. And i appreciate the PPE. Way to go, brother
Thank you!
Great step by step video; best one I’ve seen
Thanks for the kind words!
great video and ideas I have some large cracks in my concrete that I need fixing - interesting how you fill the larger ones
Thanks. Good luck with the project.
I'm filling cracks in my basement this morning before the new carpet goes down but the liquid filler that I'm using is coming out thick like clay. It was working just fine prior, coming out as pure liquid for the first 2 minutes of use. I tried warming it up which did help it flow better with less viscosity for a very limited time. I tried googling "Crack filler coming out like clay" and other similar search terms but not a single article came up in relation to that.
Very good product. I've found that Old string, shoe laces and rope is a good backer alternative
Good tip!
@Behind the Veil Another good tip.
I used the same filler that you used and after a year it cracked, I found out that I was supposed to use a flexible filler you can also put some sand or powered concrete on it to hide the filler but you have to put the powered concrete on when the filler is still tacky , it will not completely hide it but it will not look so bad
The filler I use in the video is very flexible and bendable when fully cured. One-year review video coming up in a month or so.
I like the Sika branded fillers, they have 1 and 2 part systems that go in a caulk gun; they hold up better, are thicker, and install in 1 day. The 2 part system sets within an hour and is similar to epoxy; it is the strongest sealer and stays flexible enough to not crack/split out but is more expensive than 1 part solutions.
Thanks for the tips. I may try the Sika next time. A lot of people have been giving them strong recommendations in my comments.
I am the same as you ,i live in Aus to,{sun shine state} ihave found out that you must fill the full depth of the crack ,usually the the full depth of the slab with a liquid to just not the top . I are using GRIPSET BETTA concrete crack filler.
@@markrushton4631 Thanks for the tips.
Instablaster...
GREAT VIDEOS. VERY COOL. THANK YOU!
No problem! Thanks for the kind words!
Are you kidding? I had a guy give me an estimate which included ripping out the existing driveway and lay out a new cement. Thanks so much 👏🏾👏🏾.
I’m taking your method and I’ll repaint the driveway a dark gray with glitter sand on top.
Ha ha, that will save you a lot of money!
Found ur video interesting n informative . Will try ur techniques to fill the cracks on my driveway. New subscriber because of this video. Kudos for vid. Anticipating ur next one.
Thanks for the kind words and for the subscribe!
Thank you very much for sharing ❤
No problem. Here is the 1 year follow up: czcams.com/video/DzJDun6xDpc/video.html&lc=UgyJoGVgAsnXc2QgOoN4AaABAg
Great video. Very very helpful
Thank you.
Just what I needed to know. It's another summer project this year.
Downloaded. Thanks.
No problem. Glad I could help!
Easy enough. Thank you!
No problem!
I've always used a runny mortar mix to fix cracks. If there's lots of expansion, it keeps cracking out. I have used a diamond saw and cut 1" wide slots where cracks are. The bond is much better than a thin spot. If it looks ugly, I use a resurfacing vinyl added topping mix. The city refuses to repair walks where I live. It actually has to be a hole before they'll do anything.
Sounds like you have a good system down.
Thanks again!!
No problem!
good to see you wearing knee pads, alot of concrete people dont bother but after i used them once i havent looked back, ACC would like it too,thats new zealands, accident compenstion corporation
Interesting. They will definitely save you some wear and tear.
Great thanks for the tip.
No problem.
Thanks Flip!
No problem!
I believe the sand method is still probably the best method for filling in some of the cracks up to a point. But Home Depot and Lowe's call it caulk Saver in the weatherstripping section. Only commercial companies call it backer rod and can be purchased up to 1 in in diameter for large openings. Great for when you are doing window and door replacements and have large openings to fill instead of that gooey foam stuff!
Never tried the sand before but that makes sense.
@@fixitFlip sand is a bad idea for filling the joint. Guaranteed the shorten the life expectancy of the sealant. Stick with the backer rod. I have had to remove and replace miles of sealant that failed because they used sand. Also backer rod is available from 1/4” up to 4” No one understands that backer rod is not just filler material.It gives the sealant the proper profile that is critical to long sealant life.
@@genecarden780 Thanks for the expert input, Gene.
Ran to Amazon...being delivered next week...thanks
No problem!
Well done
Thank you.
Put a layer of fine sand under the backer first, in areas where the rod wont quite fill, and smaller sections where it wont fit.
Good tip!
Great video
Thank you so much
Thanks and no problem!
Good job well done
Thank you!
Thanks for the lesson I'm going to try this around my swimming pool which has a few cracks.
No problem, and good luck with the project!
I'm not sure if this will stick as I have used concrete stain which is almost warn off.
@@michaellyons3643 I think it will, just be sure to chase any tiny cracks to give it more surface to stick to
@@fixitFlip thanks again I really enjoyed the video...great job.
@@michaellyons3643 Thank you!
If you fill in the bottom with sand it will seal better than backer rod. Then sprinkle silica sand on top while sealant is wet will produce a better match to concrete.
Good tips!
What's the reason you use normal sand to fill and silica on top, as opposed to silica for fill and regular sand for top, silica for both fill and top, or regular sand for fill and top?
@@al70127 you could do that. Silica sand is more expensive.
@@davem3789 what advantage does silica sand have over regular sand?
@@al70127 better appearance match to cured concrete.
I've used sand that I pound into the cracks so that it leaves about a quarter inch for the filler. I like it better because it provides a flatter slot for the filler which IMO makes it easier to fill to the level of the concrete. I've had better long term results with the sand as well. The filler is amazingly long lasting but uneven filling can lead to premature failure if it gets too thin.
I've seen several people mention that method here in the comments, and some people arguing against it! Lot of ways to skin a cat I guess.
I have used this very same product from Lowe's. Instead of the backer rod I used play sand, it's much cheaper. pour it into the crack up to about 3/16 of an inch below the surface. Use a chip brush or cheap paint brush to sweep away any excess. The sand fills the crack better, reducing reapplication. Also I have found no need to 'chase' the cracks.
Hmmm...very interesting.
It will not last long if you didn't chase it and the crack will open again I guess.
Use a moist sponge to level it out. It looks so much better.
For backer rod to do its job it needs to be wider than the crack it is going in. To stop the liquid crack filler from just flowing past the backer rod it needs to fit tightly in the crack. For a .50 inch wide crack you need to use .75 inch wide backer rod. Most crack repair jobs require several sizes of backer rod. Backer rod is cheap so have several sizes on hand. For a project idea, how about resurfacing that area.
Yes, that's why I put the caption on the screen to "use whatever size backer rod fits SNUGLY in place." But that is a good idea to have several sizes on hand. And resurfacing is a good idea. Currently in the middle of a retaining wall project on the other side of my house.
REMEMBER U MUST HAVE A CLEAN CRACK....LOL i was cracking up bro :-)
Always keep it clean!! lol
Clean -N- Pak that Crack 😁
Always just in case
Cracked me up 🤣😂😅
very nice thank you
No problem 👍🏻
Can I use this method to fix leaks bubbling up in many spots in seams in what is now a concrete floor where there used to be only dirt - looks not important, just dryness - in a utility room during heavy rains or when ground is saturated. I had about 5' of additional height space dug out where only 4' already existed. Space was dug out beneath an annex room which was attached to the the main house. Annex room sat on footers with just dirt underneath while main house foundation sunk the additional 5' below the annex room foundation on one side of annex room. After floor was dug out, contractor put in concrete floor which connected with roughly bordered block and concrete foundation of main house; plus, the new concrete walls placed under old footers that already existed on three sides of annex room. There are no large visible cracks anywhere in floor. There is a thin "joint"/seam - maybe more aptly described as overlay where new concrete floor meets concrete of old foundation which I remember as being uneven/not straight. There are many spots when it rains hard/ground saturated, that I can see water rising up through this very small seam. Where the concrete floor meets the newly poured concrete of the new foundation, there appears to be no leakage. The seam I am talking about is tiny (and straight) compared to what you show in this video
Also, any suggestions for the brick/mortar work in same room. In what is the old brick and mortar on three sides of annex room - below ground level - but on top of original block forming crawl space before dug out to form new room, I can see "streams" of water coming through what must be holes in old mortar during heavy rains. Any suggestions as to how to repair this
Excellent video. Thanks for help.
Any type of self-leveling sealant is a good idea for the DIYer for seams between concrete slabs. For the holes in the brick mortar, there are a lot of mortar repair products out there.
Always keep a clean crack...🤣🤣🤣...I'm here all week, Thank You
Lol, you got to!!
You could use an angle grinder with diamond disc. A disc costs about ten bucks. It saves a lot of time and produces consistent results. The more perpendicular the cut is to the surface the less likely it is that the repair will fail.
Yes, you can do it that way.
Do you think I could get a way with just using all purpose Bondo on the cracks? I am just looking to fill some cracks in my drive way for the purpose of skateboarding during the quarantine. I know it wont look pretty, but I don't really have the resources to chase the smaller cracks.
read my comment about blending concrete color
Are you able to paint over without noticing the filler? :) wanting to fix some cracks around my pool and paint with a cool sealer.
It can be coated with an acrylic water-based paint, no sooner than 24 hours after the application.
Nice video with good content and comments. Appreciate the one year follow up. I do have a question … you mention winter … where are you generally … how severe is your winter? Are you UP of Michigan, WV or northern Mississippi. That will help tell the tale on the product, Thank you!
Midwest. 90s in summer and below 0 in winter.
I did the same thing using the same Quickcreate product and while it may fill the crack, it makes it look as ugly if not uglier than when there was just a crack. Next time around I'll fill it with a pool adhesive to help hold from the slabs pulling apart further, plate sanding the top of the concrete so it's nice and flat and putting a top layer of new concrete. Note that I'm not a concrete guy and don't know if this will work or how long it'll last but something has to be better than the quikrete product that doesn't hide the cracks at all.
Thanks
No problem.
I have used this crack seal and I hate that stuff. I hate the look of it. It is messy, looks awful, then gets very flaky. But I have to ask, why you filled in your expansion joints?
Found your year later video and will watch now 👍
Video's been up for a while!
czcams.com/video/DzJDun6xDpc/video.html&lc=Ugym54Ux9U1d5lmsDkd4AaABAg
Sorry just noticed you edited your comment!
@@fixitFlip to p
I don’t have concrete in my yard but great video! Thanks!!
Thank you!
it looks just like mine it looks like crap, I tried using a darker dry concrete just sprinkle it on while the patch is still fluid, and kind of pat it to get it mixed in a little but be careful you just want to coat it so it will not be as light
Some other people have mentioned that. So that helped it blend in more?
read my comment
Could you take some of the dust particles left after cleaning and top the crackfiller with it ?
Yes a lot of people have suggested that here in the comments!
Can this treatment be stained or painted? I have foundation cracks inside the home and am considering painting the concrete. Thank you.
It can be coated with an acrylic water-based paint, no sooner than 24 hours after the application.
What do you do if the sides of the cracks are uneven? If one side is higher than the other? Do you need some kind of mold around the crack before you apply the filler?
You would need to use something like Sakrete Top 'N Bond. You can use a trowel to fill the crack and then level it off and feather it down to the lowest spot. That will make a smoother transition.
Thanks!
@@marksaxton5001 Yep!
Than you
No problem.
Real professional 👌 thx
Thank you!
Can u explain how to fix cracked bricks at base of the house where it meets floor
I used to chase cracks when I was younger.
Peter Fraumeni you’re a bad boy! Lol
That’s pretty good though! Lol
Didn't we all!
Can I repatch this with same patch material. Mine cracked again.
Yeah. I responded to your other comment.
I reckon the job should have been a concrete lift and replacement. Fix the under laying issue before the new concrete layup. Judging by the cracks there was soil expansion under the the center of the slab. Possibly a broken pipe or tree root. Good vid though on cheap sealing technique.
Thanks yeah the next step would probably be busting it out and pouring in a new slab.
Perhaps but this video is about repairing the cracks rather than replacing the entire slab.
Bruh we need an update! Does this work better than the two part components that are really expensive? I have a big gazebo that has similar cracks to yours
1-year review video coming in just a few weeks!
@@fixitFlip is the 1 year review out yet?
@@wilso933 Coming soon!
@@wilso933 Now it is.
czcams.com/video/DzJDun6xDpc/video.html - Thanks for the review(s)!
This is a very helpful video - thank you.
No problem and thank u for the kind words.
I have doubts about using a vacuum cleaner to get dust out of the cracks. The very fine dust could get through the filters and damage the mechanism of the machine. My technique was always to blast dust and dirt out of the cracks with water.
Yeah, I was just showing different possibilities for people that might have limited tools.
Interesting demonstration. A simple and cheap way of filling cracks in concrete is to clean them out and then fill them with a cement rich mortar. I use 1:1 cement and building sand. You can get mortar into finer cracks by making part of the mix more watery so it absorbs in better.
Thanks for the input. Always welcome!
I agree......it is a simple cheap way to fix cracks. My wife would not accept the end result.....although fixed, it doesn't look good. Trade is $$$ versus aesthetics. I love these CZcams content folks....they help me figure shit out! TY to the Fix It Flip crew too!
@@HockeyPurist The resulting fix looks rather colour differentiated at first but as the area is exposed to rain and dirt, the contrast fades. That said, these resin fillers look different to the concrete also, although I accept that the result is tidier. Maybe consider telling the wife that the money saved can be spent on luxuries like hand bags 😉
Right on, Jack!
What do you suggest to use to fill in black top cracks in driveways ? Thank you in advance
You can buy this same product, but intended for blacktop. But in all honesty I have never used it.
Now I am at DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206. How can I achieve this chemical & instrument. Whats will be its price. Please inform me. Thanks
This will work for sidewalk but not a driveway. A 2,000 lb car will just keep cracking it. Use Flex Seal rubber paint after cleaning out the cracks. Moves with the concrete.
Thanks for the input.
I had great results with epoxy resin but I never see anyone else do it
Make a video. Let's see it.
How do you cosmetically fix the concrete AFTER it has been repaired? I have a white line of filler and it still looks awful. Help!
I know there is a method of mixing epoxy resin and hardener with sand that will give you a tougher look on top, but I have never personally tried it. Sorry.
First of all, there's different colors of product lol. After you picked the closest one, alot of people Sprinkle silica sand on top to give it a rougher blending finish.
If you use an angle grinder withe masonry wheel to clean the cracks you can save the resulting dust and spread it lightly over the repair.
Would it not make sense to pulverize the concrete you chiseled out and then sprinkled that powdered concrete onto the last application of sealant so that the repair appeared more like the concrete?
I have never personally tried that but I have seen people sprinkle sand on top so I could see how that might make it blend in more! Personally my area just has garbage cans sitting on top so I didn’t care about that too much.
@@fixitFlip It's great seeing you reply to your comments. Loved the content. Thanks so much man.
@@lewis1180 Awesome, man. Thanks for the compliment.
Hi, I understand what you are doing. Please could you explain what backer rod actually is? I’m in Europe. thank you
Sure, the backer rod is put in the cracks as a base for the sealant. It also fills up a good portion of the crack, saving money, as the backer rod is much cheaper than the sealant.
My mom use a butter knife and put some cement sealer in the cracks and then a couple of days she painted it
Interesting.
@@fixitFlip she think she is a doctor a carpenter and a plumber with no degree she say she is the jack of all trade my dad said master of none laughing but she fix it
@@jeanheard4615 That's funny. Being willing to dive in and try is half the battle. Some people won't even do that.
Nice work!! 🩷
Thank u
When it’s dried, is the material somewhat flexible and rubbery so it can expand and contract?
Yes it is for sure.
What would happen if you didn't use use the chisel on the small small cracks and filled them with sealant anyway?
You just wouldn't have enough room to get the filler down in the crack and enough surface area for it to stick to.
Thanks!
@@marksaxton5001 No problem!
Can you use an angle grinder with a concrete wheel? Thanks!
You can use the angle grinder, but not a concrete grinding wheel. Has to be a crack chasing blade.
@@fixitFlip much thanks!
@@amritsingh2171 No problem.
Bondo works fine. Just do the same prep work no cord needed
Good tip.
Can you use a pressure washer to clean out the cracks? Thank you
You could, but then you would have to wait for it to dry, plus you might blast out some of the dirt foundation underneath.
Wouldn’t it be a good idea to save the dust from removing concrete so you could sprinkle it on the still wet liquid sealant? That would make the cracks look more like the surrounding cement.
A lot of people have suggested doing that here in the comments. Or sprinkling sand on top.
Thanks for the great idea!
You applied the stuff times two, I didn’t see the name, please forward information.. I could really use that.. THANKS!.. the application you used last.. you stated you had to redo in the morning..
Quikrete Concrete Crack Seal
can anyone share the links of '"one year later review" ?? thank you!!
Here you go: czcams.com/video/DzJDun6xDpc/video.html
Thanks! Now I can use it to fill my cracked CEMENT LEAF FOUNTAIN!
Good luck with it!
You can use fine sand to fill cracks first. Much cheaper.
Yes, been mentioned many times here in the comments. I will probably try that next time.
You get a like just for the clean crack statement. Haha.
Ba ha ha. Thank you sir!
Does it have to be dry or can this be applied after rain?
I would wait until its dry and try and do it when it won't rain for 24 hours.
I bought some of that product and it was a lot ticker and didn't flow nearly as easy as yours did. Plus it had large blobs in it that wouldn't even come out of the nozzle. Very frustrating.
Yeah I had a few blobs as well. Watch my review video on it.
czcams.com/video/DzJDun6xDpc/video.html