1987 70 Hp Johnson Outboard - Stalling Under Load
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- čas přidán 18. 01. 2020
- Its This Old Outboard. Finally got the 83 Evinrude 25 Hp Back on the Dura Craft Jon Boat. 87 Johnson 70 Hp Shift Linkage Adjusted and New Thermostat. Managed to Get a Couple of Runs in and Runs Great in Neutral but Wants to Stall Under Load. Long Day, Bitchin, Moanin, and Groanin !
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Its This Old Outboard. Resurrecting Old Outboard Motors. - Zábava
omg i dont know why but i love to see motors not just get fixed and run perfectly after you work on it!! lol Its good to see the frustration level i feel Im not alone
Hahaha. Thanks for watching !
I had the exact same problem on my engine and it drove me crazy testing it on the water just like in this vid. For me it was one of the spark plug boots had rust and the third cylinder only sometimes kicked in
Hey Thanks for tuning in. I'll have to remember that! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I have the same issue with my 75 Johnson stinger. The engine was professionally rebuilt. Stalls on take off unless I momentarily touch the electric choke first. My shop installed a complete new fuel system ( tank, hoses, fittings, squeeze bulb ). They did a ‘link and sync’ job. New shift and throttle cables. New plugs and thermostat. We tried five different pitch props ( all this on a little 16’ Glasspar ). Idles good, full throttle perfect, just has to have a split second of choke to take off even when warm....ps the motor has no mid range power, its either idle or full power...Gary in Michigan
Hey. Trying to get caught up on all these comments ! Its getting crazy ! I'm sure you figured it out by now. What did you come up with?
THIS OLD OUTBOARD I just live with it and touch the choke still for a split second for the time being , ( I have to many other projects ).
@@highwatercircutrider if you have to hit the choke that means you have a fuel restriction loss somewhere dirty or plugged jet maybe
Did you get it figured out it's rather ironic my 88 60hp johson after 14 years of flawlessly running now stumbles between idle and full throttle.
James Ringler no, and the carbs were rebuilt and had a professional linc/sync done also the complete engine was rebuilt, and all new hoses, fittings and fuel tank. My brother has the same issue with his 72’ Johnson 70 hp. ( mine is a 76 ).
This Johnson 65 stinger seems like a good build . The performance 3 carbs challenging.
Thanks for watching !
yep like neptun3se said air leak between tank and motor , same symtoms as mine . my air was getting in from inside top of the pickup in the tank .i had a glass filter so it was easy to see the bubbles and the primer bulb would'nt get hard.
Hey. Thanks. Appreciate you watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Yep it’s always something...you’ll get it though the man wants to go 🎣ing!!!! 🙂👍🏻
Hahaha Hope so. Thanks again !
I would check out from the tank to the carb. but I know your going to do that..........tight lines.
Hey Thanks ! Appreciate you watching and commenting. Stay Tuned !
blockage in the main jet, low fuel pressure, air leak in the fuel hoses, at the end of the vid she was running ok by the look of it, did it clear by itself?
Hey Thanks ! No not yet. Appreciate you watching and commenting. Stay Tuned !
I got a 1982 75 Hp Johnson and it cranks great when you lift the start lever and will idle sometimes. Cleaned all the carburetors and when I put it in gear it dies. When I bump the throttle on the carbs it bogs down and dies unless I feather it and then I can reve it no problem. Cleaned and replaced everything in the carbs three times. Can’t figure it out . Any recommendations
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. A bogging situation can be caused by so many different things its crazy. What may seem like a fuel issue could be an ignition problem and vice versa. Hopefully its something simple like the link & sync timing is off. I would recommend getting an omc service manual specific to year/model. Check ebay for a cheap used one. That way you'll have the proper procedures for setting the link & sync and procedures for testing ignition components. Not to mention a great troubleshooting section on bogging issues and more. Sometimes these old outboards like to run where they like to run and don't care what the manual says! Hahaha but having the manual is a good head start. Hang in There! Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 thanks man I appreciate it. I will definitely pick up the manual
What’s your fuel line pressure at the tank and then at the fuel pump?
Hey. No clue dont have a gauge. Thanks again !
I have an 84 evinrude 70hp, just got the carbs rebuilt and got a new fuel pump. Runs great on the hose but I put it in the creek today and as soon as I give it throttle while in gear it shuts off. Also the guy that rebuilt the carbs said there is no jet behind the top screw on all three carbs, should those screws be tightened down because they are and I even tried loosening them but it still runs like crap
Hey. I'm looking at the schematic . # 26 SCREW, PLUG IDLE PASSAGE. 70 MODELS ONLY, I think is what your referring to and yes they should be tight. I've never seen a carb like that before. On the 75hp models they still use the slow speed needle. On this 87, 70hp they use an air bleed orifice. "rebuilding" these carbs is usually nothing more than new bowl gaskets #7 #20, float and needle #8 #11. Did they get cleaned too? # 29, the high speed orifice/jet and nozzle needs to be spotless. Any clogging or crap and it won't run when you give it throttle. Shutting down could be a number of different reasons why. What may seem like a fuel issue could be ignition and vice versa. Could be something as simple as an air leak in the fuel line or tank not venting. Its best to go back to basics. Carbs super clean. Fuel system check. Compression test. Spark test. Timing set. You can get a free manual at boatinfo.no. Heres the parts schematic www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1984&hp=70. Thanks for tuning in!
Have you found any more causes or solutions for the mid-range, transition from low speed to main orifice bog thing? I have a 1977 75 hp Evinrude that has this bog, if I blip the choke it gets past it or if I punch teh throttle it'll get past it, if I accelerate smooth from idle it'll die. I found a service bulletin from 1976, 1429, that says to put in bigger low speed orifices and drill out the calibration holes and the holes in teh emulsion tube, someone had done the low speed orifices but not the rest, I did those and also drilled out my low speed orofices to #33s, definitely better but still there, I'm hoping you have learned some more, this sounds like a very common thing with these three cylinders, on the forums there is not a ton of guys that know about it. Thanks, Steve
Hey. Well on this old outboard there was never any real problems until it over heated. As it turned out the gearcase was shot. Did a swap on the gearcase and everything went south. After testing and eliminating the fuel and ignition systems and not finding any problems it turned out to be the prop on the new gearcase, it was huge compared to the original prop and I never thought it would be a problem until I swapped them out. Once I put the original prop back on it was fine. Never thought that could be the problem but that was it. Its all in the videos. Thanks for watching ! Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 What size prop did you wind up putting on? Mine is a 13 1/2 x 16 on a 16' runabout.
@@TheWilsonsk1966 Hey. I never looked back at the difference in the props sizes. I was just thrilled to death that it was running again. I spent way to much time on that thing trying to figure out what was wrong. Like I said, its all in the videos. If your having problems on a 77 and you haven't changed anything like I did with the gearcase/prop then your on the right track with all that other stuff your doing. I think? Its amazing its been running since 1977, but now its not. I would go with the service bulletin if it pertains to that motor/year and stay away from the forums. It seems everybody on the forums has an opinion but nobody ever has the answer. I would go back to basic and start fresh. For example. Carbs, low, mid and high speed orifices/jets super clean. Never assume anything with these things! Just because it "looks" clean means nothing. I've screwed around with a lot of old outboards and found its always best to go with the service manual, you wont get the bulletins but its a start. If you dont have the manual you can find it at boatinfo.no . I know nothing about your motor. Did you just get or have you had it. If you blip the choke or punch it you get passed it. Could be just an air leak in the fuel lines or intake gasket. So you see what I'm saying. Probably something stupid right under your nose... Dont over think it
THIS OLD OUTBOARD the boat and motor are new to me and the prop was brand new when I got it so I have no idea if it is the “right” prop or not, but I’ll scour craigslist and marketplace for a used smaller one. Thanks for the help, I love your channel, I’m a farm kid from wisconsin (I’m 54 now) and can’t resist making old things work again, I appreciate your ingenuity and tenacity. Thanks!
I believe I am having the same issue as you with a '96 Johnson 115. Bad reed valves seem to be a fairly common culprit. I just ordered replacements online and will let you know if I have any luck once I get the new ones installed. Thanks for the video! Good to know I'm not the only one ripping my hair out after replacing part after part with no success.
Hey. Trying to get caught up on all these comments ! Its getting crazy ! I'm sure you figured it out by now. What did you come up with? Was it the reeds? Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
Did the reeds fix your problems or is it fuel related my 60 hp is now bogging between idle and full throttle
So what ended being your issue? I have an 88 Evinrude 60hp that just started this crap 2 days ago. About to go out and mess with see what I find. But I’ve had the issue with a 70 evinrude Lark 50 that I never fixed because I broke two head bolts lol (I’ll get back to it another day/year) and my friends 70hp Johnson with 3 carbs did this and we never got it figured out. Gave the boat back to its old owner, his brother.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Welcome to the real life saga! Your suppose to watch the next episode to find out. Hahaha it was the prop, looong story. From what you said about your 60hp I don't think it will help you unless you swapped props a couple days ago. Anyway, there are a bunch of things that can cause a stalling under load issue. Best bet would be to pick up an omc service manual specific to your year/model, check ebay for a good used one. The troubleshooting section will give you a long list of things to check and how to check them. Hopefully it's a simple fix. Thanks again & Happy 4th!
im worried about your safety walking on that dock LOL
Hahaha U funny! Thanks again !
I've had the same issue with my 6hp mercury from 2018. It was the fuel connector from the tank to the motor so im guessing it has something to do with it sucking false air. Thats how we say it in my language😂
Hey. Yeah man I get the lingo. Thanks and Stay Tuned !
Well old school I had a mercury 20 that did the same thing and it turned out to be the lower unit , a seal at the base of water pump ,if this info helps any.
No, I'm not following what you mean. Seals are good, Gear oil was changed. Thanks
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 some knind of seal from the lower unit is put Strain on the motor
@@markrusso6401 Wow. never heard of that. Thanks
My wife said you should have said excuse me when you belched. 😁
Opps Tell her I'm sorry and excuse me ! Hahaha Thanks and Stay tuned!
Had similar problem, in my case there was a air leak between gastank and motor.
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes the hose is a p.o.s. and needs some attention. Thanks again. Stay tuned !
Was yours bogging between idle and full throttle what was the repair
Bad gas!
This is where I would start before digging in to far. Rule out the chance of bad fuel. I've had bad spark plugs act this way too. This was on an older motor (1976 25hp Johnson with points) it would run finet at idle and rev up, but would die as soon as you put a load on it. Good Luck!
Hey Thanks ! I hope so, just got some fresh today. Appreciate you watching and commenting. Stay Tuned !
We had a outboard acting this way turn out to be the kill switch. Lol I spent a weak replacing everything you can think of.
Hey Thanks ! Appreciate you watching and commenting. I'll check that out. Stay Tuned !
i'd still get out the DVA and check to see what voltage that stator and pack is putting out. what's the idle timing at?
Unknown at this point. Dont own a DVA meter. But I know someone who does. Thanks again !
What's a DVA ? You mean a VOM that's what we call them in the industry
@@randyyoung9892 Hey Randy. A multimeter or a multitester, also known as a VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter), is an electronic measuring instrument that combines several measurement functions, Which I have But I Dont Have a DVA meter/adapter, DVA stands for Direct Voltage Adapter, which is used to measure peak AC voltage and is a must in the industry for testing in this type situation and pinpointing the problem. Thanks. Stay tuned !
@@randyyoung9892 no a DVA = direct voltage adapter. Thats needed to measure the PEAK voltage coming from the stator. a normal VOM can't read the peaks fast enough for an accurate reading. I know, pain in the neck and probably not used much if at all outside these 2 strokes with a stator! you can get ones for $30 on ebay though. used to be wicked expensive.
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 If you want to, search ebay. one guy sells a whole bunch of different styles for something like $20-$30 shipped and I tested one against my CDI unit. Dead accurate!
Hey nice video I have a 1984 envirude 185hp that it runs with the motor cover off but when I put it back on it dies , like there a problem getting enough air , could bad carburetor’s be the reason or what you think ?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. That's usually the powerhead to midsection "exhaust gasket" leaking. Choking out the carbs. Big job on a 185 and no fun on any outboard. I've seen people cut holes in the hood so the carbs get fresh air but only on small outboards. I just randomly picked an 84 model, It's number 37 in the schematic, I also see a couple of other gaskets that you may want to check/replace. 29 & 79. Thanks again !
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1984&hp=185&model=J185TLCRS&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=MIDSECTION
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1
Also there is some smoke coming from the bottom of the last carburetor, could that be caused by the exhaust leak ? Thanks for your time
@@anniers6882 probably
older omc motors like this get bad fuel pickups in the tanks and will stall under load but when you lift the fuel tank above the motor it builds proper pressure
Hey thanks for watching and commenting. I did not know that. Thanks again. Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I appreciate the reply most people don't respond to their comments. I will definitely have to keep watching.
Why is my 98 Johnson 70hp sputtering a little like a hesitation when I gas on it. Runs great starts good idles good idk what's going on it isn't bad but its definitely noticeable. Like a little sputter for 1 sec max. Thank you
My 88 60hp just did that this year I pulled it out of storage after skipping one year ran flawlessly for 14 years so I'm guessing its fuel line issues or my carb jets are gummed up reducing the amount of gas available when going from idle to WOT the other thing might be bad gas .
Hey. Trying to get caught up on all these comments ! Its getting crazy ! I'm sure you figured it out by now. What did you come up with?
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 My vro pump was cracked leaking gas out the back a little. Gonna go pre mix and put a regular fuel pump on
Could b a compression problem when it warms up! Just gessing!
I hope not. But I will check it when its warmed up. Thanks. Stay tuned !
So happy i got rid of my Johnson 2 stroke (always fixing something) and got me Yamaha 2 stroke no fixing just boating this engine is like a Ak47..... Yamaha 4 ever
If it's a two stroke it might be a Johnson copy certain years the head fit around if I'm not mistaken
Yeah the yammis are great until it needs a new center crank shaft bearing and a machine shop has to pull the shaft apart to replace the bearing then precisely press it back together. I still have one sitting in my storage unit. I really do like them but they're had to come by and not cheap. Thanks ! See ya next time !
I'll 2nd a lower unit issue of some type?
Hope Not ! Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
My 70 hp johnson doesn’t have a pisser on it any suggestions
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Wow that's weird! It has to have one. It usually comes out at the exhaust manifold cover. Go to marineengine.com and look up your year & model. Check the schematic and track it down. It's really no more than an indicator to let you know your pump is working. But that's a good thing. Curious to know what you find out? Thanks again & Stay tuned !
My 60 merc did that till I took it in and they said one of the plugs was fouled and the carbs needed adjusting. Another thing I was doing wrong was not pumping the fuel ball up before starting. Mine still will not get firm compared to my single carb yamaha. More carbs more problems. If that's not it maybe the reed valves? That motor really sounds like metal scrapping? Not like your other sweet motors
Hey Yeah I know . Don't go by sounds, the camera picks up the worst sound coming out of the carbs. Without the airbox/silencer it sounds bad on video but sounds ok live.
It sounds to me like your shifting linkage is pushing your clutch dog to hard causing undo strain on your prop shaft ! That would be my guess ! Just go back to the position that it was in before the stalling started ! Good luck !
Thanks I'll keep that in mind.
Got a 74 Johnson 50 stalls when put into gear I put it in gear a couple times then times it dies
Irvine porras it’s hard to say without watching it , do you have a video ? Most likely it’s the idle set when it does that but it could be a number of things ! Does it happen when the engine is cold or warm ? It could be a weak driver coil also .
Ever get the issue figured out?
Yes. Its all in the next episodes. Thanks for tuning in!
I have a 94 evinrude runs idles Great on muffs, went to go to lake for test run other weekend fired up pulled out of wale zone went to gun it and boat went to lift then just stayed there not on plane motor would not rev up anymore like half or even less rpms, took calon off and hit throttle link in neutral and rev up some pretty good, put back in gear same thing would not scream just set at about half rpms , what is going on with my motor
Hey. Wow, could be a few different things and your just going to have to eliminate them one at a time. It's a different story on the water under a load. I would start with a compression check, if good move on to the fuel system from the tank back through to the pistons/plugs. Tank vent open, air leaks in hose, fuel pump pumping/good diaphragm, carbs super clean double/triple check the high speed orifices/jets, leaks around intake manifold. Basically, your just going back to basics with it. And dont assume anything with these things, just because something looks good or clean dosent mean it is. Once your convinced the fuel system is all good, move on to the ignition system. Could be just a bad ground somewhere or coil breaking down. Coils will test fine when cold but will start breaking down as they warm up. These bigger motors have a L.I.M.P. or S.L.O.W mode that prevents them from revving. You'll have to do your homework on that. I'm not real familiar with it. So unfortunately there is no one answer to whats going on with your motor, what may seem like a fuel issue could be ignition and vice versa. Some other things to try is running it on one or two cylinders at a time, sometimes that will help narrow things down. Also when its acting up pull the plugs and check them, are they wet or dry. You can find a trouble shooting section in the manual, the manuals are at boatinfo.no. Hopefully its something easy, its no fun changing a bad head gasket. Curious to know what you find out. And dont know if you watched the conclusion on the 70hp Johnson, but it turned out to be the huge prop I left on the gearcase when I swapped it out. So, something easy after I went through h*ll for two weeks!
Thank you! I have heard it could be power pack and could be going into limp mode also! Heard it needed tuning top end because was not on boat so Idled great, I did take it to shop but still trying to eliminate in my head what problem could be while waiting on call! Thank you again for responding
@@KyleC0430 👍
Kyle Callahan any updates ? Mine is doing the same
Douglas Helminiak yes I did get it figured out! Something so simple, had mercury spark plugs in it and also top carb gummed up, had it cleaned thoroughly , went to lake past weekend and was fine! So was spark plug change and top carb, so was only running on one carb
I have an 88 spl that did/does same thing. Replaced ever fuelhose fuel pump had carbs rebuilt. Primer leaked bad after getting a new top/lever. Had to go back to original. 1 week ran great. Next week kept stalling.
Hope you get if figured out. Save me some aggravation too
Wow. I was hoping you were going to tell me what was wrong with it ! Hahaha Thanks ! Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I still haven't got it figured out. Water dropped and so did the temperature here had to just winterize and cool with it this spring. Hoping to learn from yourself.
I have a 80 hp ...i will like you to takea look at it and get it running forme a mercury 80 hp ...
Hey Thanks ! Appreciate you watching and commenting. Unfortunately I dont know much about Mercs. Its a different Animal ! Stay Tuned !
man i could use you here in ohio lol ive got a 1968 johnson 85hp keeps kicking my butt almost every thing on her in new and she still dont wanna run good when its cold
Hey. Well Stay Tuned and maybe we can figure this out ! Thanks for watching and commenting really appreciate it !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 any time im always looking at your stuff hell your the only guy on here that does what we are doing or need too see how to or maybe to do lol
@@cozziwysong3905 Hahaha Just keeping it real. Thanks again !
Crank seal leak ????
Once again, I have kind of come in on the middle of this project, sorry.... In any event, I will have to go and watch your gearcase swap video. I see that you were messing with the shift rod height....Did you set/check the shift rod height when you did the swap? There is a specific dimension that is measured in neutral with the gearcase off. Did you check to see if the clevis arm is tight on the horizontal shift rod shaft? The aluminum arms love to loosen up which causes slop when shifting. In any event, you gotta be sure this stuff is right, or you will end up with clutch dog problems. Perhaps there is slop in the control cable/box causing difficulties. Seemed to shift OK when you got done with it though....OK, on to the stalling...First, someone has converted this thing from VRO to a fuel pump, which is fine, provided it is done correctly and the proper fuel pump is used. But, I'm not sure there was a mount for a fuel pump on this engine. Everyone fails to understand that the VRO does not have to be replaced with a fuel pump if you want to premix. The VRO makes a great fuel pump without spending all that money, just plug off the oil inlet and disconnect the VRO pulse alarm.... Your engine won't even idle, so I'm not surprised it won't accelerate...I'm thinking once the idle is fixed it will accelerate. You got to start with the basics, which is sync/link adjustments. These engines won't idle if the throttle plates aren't all closed at dead idle, and all start to open evenly at the proper time. Let's try something simple, which will help point us in the right direction.... Try tapping the electric primer while trying to accelerate...If this helps, then we can feel pretty comfortable in that the problem will be found in sync/link adjustments or carb issues. Keep in mind there was a service bulletin on these engines also. The original .033" idle air bleeds are supposed to be replaced with .029" air bleeds on all three carbs. This will richen the idle up slightly which will help. The idle air bleeds are easily removed without any carb disassembly, but you will need the OMC jet screwdriver, 317002. Once you remove one of them, you will probably need a magnifying glass to see the "33" stamped on the front of the air bleed. But again, the sync/link must be checked first....How does this engine run at WOT, OK? Have you checked compression? Again, let's not overlook the basics on this thing. How about spark, is that OK?
Hey. Where in the hell have you been. Hahaha You've seen this motor before when I got it up and running. Anyway, yes back to basics ! Cant comment to much right now, Sunday bar-b-q with the neighbors, you know what I mean. I'll get back with you with the details. Thanks !
Hey again. Great to hear from you. Yes I checked the old gearcase and it was 6 turns out from bottom so I turned the new one out 6 turns but it did not line up. Thats why I had to drop the gearcase and adjust it. Its tight but the cables and box are old and sloppy. I had this thing running like a rocket ship the last time I worked on it if you remember. Anyway somehow it ran hot, I never really got the whole story as to what happened. When I pulled the gearcase it was shot, full of water and very hard to turn. Compression was 120 90 120, I soaked the middle cylinder with some wd40 and it went to 120 on the next test.? Anyway, I figure it will run well enough, and it does, so the guy can just go fishing, thats all he uses the boat for. Also keep in mind these videos are a week or so old, so I've made some progress this past week. After I got it all back together, I could take it for a run, come back to the dock, turn it off , then try another run and the stalling would to happen, so after it warms up, turn it off, Start it up and no go. So something seemed to be failing after its warmed up.? So back to basics with new plugs, link and sync adjustment, Fresh fuel, tighten all grounds down, replaced plug wires, stopped the primer from leaking, which would only leak when pushing the key. So, the last run, with fresh gas, it started right up. hit the throttle slow and it stalled, fired it back up and hit the throttle fast and it took off, runs pretty good but if I throttle up slow it wants to hesitate and stall, throttle up fast and a very slight hesitation, almost unnoticeable and it takes off. So back to the dock and cut it off. Waited about 15 minutes before I restarted it, fired it up and it ran the same as the first run. Throttle up fast, slight hesitation, throttle up slow and it wants to stall.
OK, so the engine got overheated....Now, it won't idle or accelerate...Middle cylinder compression a bit low. So, you may have to "cobble" the correct sync procedures a bit so the old dog will work "OK" for him. Don't forget to check those idle air bleeds, the smaller air bleeds will help also...D
Didn't u say that he ran it hot?
Yes. Compression test was 121-90-121. I shot some wd in the middle cylinder and it went to 120. It should run, which it does, and should be enough to just go fishing, which is all he uses it for.
Hey, you got plenty of fuel otherwise it would not be running like a scolded dog on the high end. If you think about it you have idle as well. So it has to be your "off idle" circuit that is plugged. To confirm that you said it would keep running from idle to full throttle with the choke up. Let us know if this helps. Frick & frack carb........yup!
Hey Thanks for watch and commenting. The "fast start" lever is not a choke. Its just a throttle that dosent engage the gears for warming up the motor. Similar to the start position on a tiller outboard. But I like the way you thinking. Thanks again ! Stay Tuned !
Boy just when you think you got it...
Almost my brother....
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Never fails right ! Stay tuned !
Just buy a Yamaha!
Yeah!
OMG!! This video is a complete waste of my time. A 23 min video that provided no solutions whatsoever
Hey. Welcome to the Real Life Saga! Your obviously looking for answers to a stalling/bogging under load situation. Unfortunately there are numerous reasons for this type of situation and I understand your frustration. Just as I was, trying to figure this crap out, it will drive you crazy! Like I said, there are many things that can cause this problem. There is no "one" solution, and what may work for someone else, may not work for you. I did the same thing, online looking for a solution. No Help! Get yourself an OMC manual for your year/model and go to the troubleshooting section on "stalling under load" and you'll see the long list of possibilities. I got lucky, not from a video or the manual but from a friends suggestion and what had happened to him once. So I had nothing to lose and had tried everything else. And that's all I'm doing is telling my story and what ended up working on this old outboard. So stop wasting your time and mine and get yourself a manual ! Thanks for tuning in !