B-Pump Ogikubo🇯🇵 HARDEST Climbing Gym EVER
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- This was my first visit to the hardest climbing gym in the world, B PUMP OGIKUBO in Tokyo Japan.
This gym has bred countless World Cup medalists and has attracted many world class athletes to go train there, I have heard about this gym forever and it's finally my chance to visit!
First Video of the Japanese Climbing Series.
Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:37 - Warm Up & Grades
1:52 - First Shock
2:38 - Getting tricky
5:13 - Let the Falling commence
9:54 - Comp Wall
14:08 - The Setting & Style
15:49 - How hard is this gym?
16:54 - Why is it so hard?
20:21 - Me VS World Cup Medalist
21:00 - World Cup Finals Replica
21:27 - What did I learn?
21: 56 - What is next?
Instagram:
/ jonathan_sin88
This video would not have been possible without the help of Ben who helped me film most of the footages.
References:
docs.google.com/document/d/1R...
Akiyo once said that a "perfect V4 climber" (in terms of technique) is all you need, and higher grades are just strength. Now this makes sense - she meant V4 in BO.
Akiyo knows what’s up
when they say "this is a v3 in my gym" THIS IS THE GYM.
It gets old hearing that. When you hear people saying over and over again that they are v4 climbers and then they are struggling with the v1s and twos at your gym. Then there is this one dude who's complaining about the v10 being a v12 because it's too hard. I just find it hard to believe that someone is a v4 climber if they can't climb any of the v4s in front of them. I've only been climbing 5 months though and only seen one gym. Shouldn't you be getting stronger instead of mad that you can't climb the grade you thought you could
There is no clear definition on climbing level. Something very common is mentioning the grade you project as your climbing level. Which usually means that you won't just send it in 1 go
Personally I use the grade my climbing app gives me, which is the average of top 10 climbs in 2 months
That v0+/v1 is definitely at least like a v4 in my gym
V7 in my gym 💀
Really crazy how different the standards seem to be. Usually it's the other way around where you find yourself thinking that the climbs are way too easy for the grade. Like in Magnus' newest video where Zach King flashes a 6b. Like, it looks too easy for a 6b... I'm sure in reality it is actually a 6b, because for some reason on camera everything seems to look easier. But here, complete opposite. v2s look incredibly hard for their grade.
V3 at my gym
@@Oachlkaasyea that's what baffles me so much is these climbs look noticably hard on video even when they are graded as "easy"
Yeah, V3-V4 in my gym
those lower v grades are insane for what the routesetters have given them ahaha
One of the routsetters in my gym grade things just like this and its great for when you want to destroy your confidence
@@dylansmith3452i prefer this way of grading really, as he said getting that grade is much more rewarding and keeps you humble.
It’s just a different standard haha
This is the gym of everyone who comments V0 in my gym !
It’s ridiculous but AMAZING
I have been living in Japan for twenty years, and Ogikubo B-Pump was a walk away from my house for many years (old gym and new gym.) Route-setting through all grades, including beginner grades, is fantastic, so it's a great place for beginners too. The easiest (pink tape) problems are not just ladders, but introduce necessary techniques. Moving up the grades, In my opinion, going from sending red tape to blue tape is a big jump, and then white tapes start to become seriously testing. I've seen Janja fall off a tricky blue V2/V3, so virtually no boulder is a give send if you are complacent. It's a wonderful gym, but leave your ego at the door, or it could be crushed.
I hope that's a point I managed to get across, the climbs aren't just hard in terms of the physical sense, they are hard because there are so many different moves, so many holds use in creative ways and more. The grades int eh gym are actually in a very wide spectrum so there's something for everyone for sure, you mention climbs for beginners, there are definitely some and the quality is just as high as the harder ones!
if a v3 looks as difficult as a v6 in my gym i cant imagine what a v10 looks like there
It actually looks ok, until you pull onto the first hold 🤣
I remember a Japanese route setter friend told said that they don't grade higher than v10 for the hardest problems (which are v13- v15 in reality).
That first V3-4 looks like it would be V7 in my gym lol. You’re a crusher dude and your content is very motivating! I always watch it on my rest days
I find watching climbing videos on rests days to be a dangerous practice, I always end up getting too psyched and start fnigerboarding or doing pull ups
There're several "rewards" by the route itself in the climbing world. In average gym, they are finger strength, upper body power, mobility, flexibility and so on. And as you can tell, precision is one of the most weighted "reward" in some Japanese climbing gym like B-pump. It literary take the game to another level.
it's mind blowing, honestly a great experience to understand that there's always tons fo room for improvement!
Your video is very comprehensive and you climb super strong! The part where you compared the grades you could reach at different gyms in different countries was also helpful!
To give some context of Ogikubo's grading:
- earlier this year, Ogikubo set a 100 routes with ascending difficulty while keeping the tapes. The red tapes (5Q = V0+ on the conversion chart) went up to 40, and white tape (3Q = V3~V4) went up to 60s. This also gave a perspective of where you are at the a 1-100 scale comparing to the frequenters at the gym (basically most people there are very strong). The world cup pro-atheletes were in the 90s range for green and black tapes, and they also need to work hard to send them.
- from my personal experience, it is consistently 2~3Q ("kyu") harder than most other non-B-pump gyms in Tokyo (e.g. a B-pump 5Q could be a 2/3Q at other gyms). Most other gyms also start at lower grades (i.e. 9~10Q) so it'd give beginner climbers more routes to climb.
A few other things that make Ogikubo hard:
- due to limited space in Tokyo, you can find gym walls here are very packed with holds, and it requires much more precise movement. For instance, the two big black holds were definitely in your way to get your right foot onto the jib for the blue-hold-3Q route you were working on. And it's much harder to send a dyno on non-comp walls than comp walls (many more holds in your way).
- Ogikubo is pretty good with getting and setting with new type of holds that you just might've just seen in a world cup. It also often sets with much more new-school style.
Thanks for summarisingggg
Other than Noborock and Rocky (which I would say have an even larger gap than that), Tokyo gyms do not have a 2~3Q grade difference from Ogikubo. Its much closer to 1Q difference on average. Underground is actually about 1Q harder than Ogikubo.
I really want to visit the Japanese climbing gyms
It’s an invaluable experience for sureee
Those are some of the hardest looking indoor v0-v1's I've ever seen. No wonder Japan has so many good climbers when all their setting is crazy hard/technical.
next video goes even deeper into the way Japanese setting workssss
I've climbed extensively at Japanese gyms including B-Pump and I'm a routesetter in the US. One thing to note is that the scale at the beginning is the "official" Japanese-to-V-grade conversion chart, which applies best to outdoor bouldering. There are stiff and soft gyms in the country, with B-Pump being one of the hardest. Here's a rough chart just based on my own opinion if you want to know what grade you might climb at B-Pump:
8-kyu - VB
7-kyu - V0
6-kyu - V1
5-kyu - V2-V3+
4-kyu - V4+
3-kyu - V5-V6
2-kyu - V6+
1-kyu - V7+
1-dan - V8-9
2-dan - V10+
3-dan - V11 and up
Never climbed in a Japanese gym, but I thought a similar thing about the grade conversion. VB/V0 is supposed to be the easiest grade, but this gym (supposedly) has climbs below that level which doesn't make a lot of sense to me. So your conversion looks much more logical
Loved the video! It was my honour to give you a good time as the stuff at B-Pump!! Hope to see you again in Japan!!!
My mannnn🔥🔥
Love it dude, keep it up💪🏻
great videos. Going to Japan in April next year. Hoping to visit all these gyms and do some outdoor climbing
Great video! Love your energy
Thank youu, hope you enjoyed ittt
Lmaoooo this is the only bouldering video I've ever seen on the internet where instead of ppl commenting "that's v2 in my gym" about a v6, it's the opposite way around.
Great video man, very motivating.
Thank you!!!
Awesome video! Can't wait to visit this gym
Definitely an experience
I love your energy and positivity 😊 (and your climbing haha)
Awww I appreciate the kind wordsss
Loved the video! ♥
Thank youuuu
Nice to see a video where the lower grades are challenging! Definitely checking out the rest of the vids! Japanese gyms look amazing!(ly hard haha)
Love your videos more than any other climbing creator. Thanks
O my what a compliment 🥹but I have got a lot to learn and improve on for sure, other CZcamsrs are my INSPIRATION 😎😎thank you for the kind words tho
Fantastic video for one of the best gyms I have visited. So happy to see your take on the grades there. I didn't know about Shodan being the gate to mastery. New lifetime goal set!
ahha I thought it was an interesting nugget as well
Such a good video. I think you've showed me another piece of motivation to train even harder and improve way beyond what I'm capable of right now.
There’s always something to improve on for sureee
We just went in June 2023. Random weekday evening. To my left Fujii Kokoro is working a problem. Down at the comp wall Ogata Yushiyuki hanging with a buddy, who could have been a national champ for all I know - there are so many world class Japanese climbers and I only know of a handful. Their conversion chart is like he says, about 4 grades harder. And everyone in the gym was at least decent. Everyone was able to climb a US v6 or better. It was like the field of dreams. Awesome and super challenging.
I like your Videos so much! Your style of climbing is so beatyfull to watch! Please make more 🙏
It's in the making!! thanks for the kind words!!
Awesome Video!
Thank you 🙇🙇
This is so cool, no gym that I've been to has had routsetting this creative
Most gyms do really good settinggg, appreciate the setters you have tooo❤️they work very hard I’m sureee
Awesome video man
Thank you!!1 glad you enjoyed ittt
Very good video! For me the boulders looked really difficult. I subscribed, thanks for the awesome content!
thank you very muchhhh
I'm relatively new to climbing but I had the chance to climb in another gym in Tokyo. It was so much harder than what I was used to. I'm currently at a V3/V4 level but I only managed to climb some V0+/V1 routes in Japan. I've learned a lot though.
Bro you've motivated me so much in my resting day that I can't wait for tomorrow to come to send some routes!!
GO GET THEMMM
LLOOKING ABSOLUTELY HUMONGOUS ALSO PRETTY VIRAL VIDS LETS GOO RAAHHHH💪💪💪💪💪
Thank you!!!
Excited for the part 2. Also, you should the "Thank$" button!
Hahah there are more than two parts😏
love it❤
Thank youuu😊
Sick video
Thank youuu
Heading there in 3 weeks!
damn have a good time man
I think i briefly saw you at Night's game competition at Rocky akebonobashi. Looking forward for the video hopefully 😉
Ogipump still beating my ass on some 3Q, with completely impossible 2Q for me, glad you have sent some!
😏😏be on the lookouttt
very good 🙂
The boulder you did at 16:05 in Arkose, Bordeaux (im climbing there and did this one) is more 6a+/6b than 7a+
When the gym is 2-3 grades harder than outdoors that is wild. My gym is very hard on grading and turns V4 climbers at the other gyms in the city into V1 climbers, but it's still nowhere near the level of B-Pump. I hope to one day visit here as my hardest grade as of right now is V7 and I want to test myself more.
another banger
Thank you🙈
I guess the difference between b-pump and depot is that depot caters to more punters and newer climbers, b-pump always felt like it was a place where the elite train tbf. Its like going to the school room where everything on the board and spray wall is sandbagged haha
I think the main difference is the expectation of the climber is just much higher. It’s not that there aren’t easy climbs, like physically the lower grades are very doable more most people but then they take time to figure out, which is sorta the best no? Like although it’s harder than normal grading, all the moves are within the capabilities of an amateur climber, it’s just much more complex which I think makes the climbing more rewarding and funnnn
I really enjoy your videos! It is also very interesting to see your progress, since you started at the same time as me👍 keep up the great content!
Thank you!!!
What an awesome Video! I love your positivity :D Also, the choice of music was excellent! Sadly, there ist no list of the used songs, or is there? I would love to check out some of them ✌️
That W4 comp problem looks brutal on the lower back
I was there the week of the Hachioji finals and could only average V3's. The post-McDonalds hits different there too
It was the teriyaki squid balls for me🤪
I was thinking of checking this out when I was in Tokyo, but never got around to it. This looks awesome! If you get the chance, you may be interested in Edge & Sofa in Matsumuto. Def a hike from Tokyo and nowhere near as big as B-Pump, but really tough and creative problems there + alps!
Too many good gyms, too little tome
Your knowledge of the rocks you come across baffles me. What I wouldn’t give to go on a single expedition with you. Teaching myself with books and videos has only gotten me so far. Being with someone with field experience who can point out the rocks in real time would suit my learning style so much better.
How did you learn so much?
I would love to make a trip out to that area in the future but I wouldn’t have much success with my lack of actual agate hunting experience.
I definitely spend more time thinking about climbing than actually climbing
I come from Nepal . My gym has very few space and grade are too soft then I see video like this ! My heart aches for these types of gym
I mean as long as there are holds you can set hard stuff for yourself!! Goodluckkk
Great video! I am curious how the white holds on the wall at 20:27 work. Are those for when you want to use that wall as a spray wall or do they also make up problems somehow?
I normally climb V4/V5 in the States and I could barely climb a V1 when I visited this gym last month LOL. Climbing in Japan is not for the faint of heart!
It’s the best thoooo
A comment for the algorithm, my friend
Hahah thank you friendddd😊
Now im psyched and its 11:30pm
Push ups are always on
Dude I relate so much with this video
I live in the countryside of Brazil, and the gyms here are disconnected from the rest of the world. Besides that we still use the international V system for boulders, and its completely broken. The V3 here are way harder than the ones I usually see online. I think that happens because climbing its not a popular sport here, so must of us also climb in the rock. Anyway, I am so happy to know there are other places where the "system" doesnt apply very well too
I think the main point is that as long as you can document your progress in a consistent and reliable way, then it's all ok, grades for me is a way to document my progress in one place, but there's no need to feel bad or anything if your rate of progression in terms of grade is different to the crazy stuff people do online, its just so different everywhere.
@@Jonathan_sin88 thanks man, that makes a lot of sense, that's the best way to look at it
I remember one time when I was talking to a friend from Greece, and we mention climbing. He asked me the highest grade I climbed in boulder and I was like "maybe v3/v4" and I have been climbing for 1 year. He looked at me in disbelieve and told me he climbed that in his first day 😂
Going there one day is definitely a big goal of mine
It’s worth a trip for sureee
God i hope climbing continues growing in the west like it has over the last 5 years. The Japanese do everything so well
WTF hahaha waow the boulders look insanely hard for the grade, a dynamic toe hook catch on a v2-v3 I would never see that in any gyms in my city up until V4-V5
it's a bit nuts ahha but sososo fun
So much potential for learning when they aren't afraid to put advanced moves that are strength appropriate for a lower grade. Lile that blue v3 with the toehook.
However the rest of that one was sandbagged to hell and back 😂
Just forces us all to be better😎😎
I climb up to 7A/7B at the moonboard as well as in my home gym. In fontainebleau although, I didn't manage to do sth harder than 6A the one time I was there. So maybe I suck at outdoors or all the gyms/ moonboard is graded to low, except this gym
Let's gooooo
Broooo🥹🥹🥹
Can't wait to go there and not being able to climb anything!
It’s the beta feeling
Super fun video. Did you try any individual moves on any black tape climbs?
I pulled on to the first move, fell, moved on. But there’s a video coming up soon where I try a much harder problem than any of the ones in the video😏
It's fun how American gyms put the grades on the boulders so high, there a v7 it's like a v3 in other countries.
I went to B Pump when I was in Japan!!! The other kids there are incredible!! I'll be posting the video to CZcams also 😀
Always good to see more Japan climbing stuffff
@@Jonathan_sin88 Thanks! I did indoor and outdoor climbing while there!
So this is the gym people talk about when they say "V0/1 in my gym" . I'm flashing 6c consistently, but can't see myself flashing most 5's there. Holy that gym is insane. Will definitly remember it if I go to Japan next time.
you definitely should!!
They set climbs 2 grades below what they consider V0, so the grade conversion isn't simply a case of Japanese climbers being stronger (though I have no doubt that's true especially in this gym), but more-so the Japanese culture of humility. Or in general climbing culture... sandbagging :)
After you climbed in B-pump, you immediately evolved
I think it changed my mindset a bit for sure
7:09 makes me wonder how often you work on your stretches looool, or is it just awkward positioning?
This makes me wann climb..
Japanese gyms are super sandbagged. Japanese grades are always 2 grades below overseas grades, this gym just takes it to another level.
This is a special one for sure, most other gyms I visit are quite normal
Everything sandbag in Japan. I used to climb v10 when I was in the US. I moved to Japan and I only climb v3/4 now
That's so strong hahaha
Cool vid!. One question, why are ther holds inside tapped triangles?. First slab problem it look like they belong to the problem
those are jugs for climbers to work individual moves, not part of the climb as far as I am aware!!
@@Jonathan_sin88 , thanks, great idea. First time i see it.
looks accurate to outdoor bouldering.
WTF THOSE V0-V2 CLIMBS ARE INSANE. those are like v3-v6 in my gym
ahha its a bit crazy
How is it compared to usa climbing gyms ? Like what’s ur average in the USA ? Awesome video we just went 2 weeks ago lol super hard
never climbed in the US, hopefully I can go soon!!
Im trying to get my second ever v5 on a paddle move and you're "v3" wall looked harder than the v5 I've been trying
ahha I think this was part of the point of the video, but then as long as you are progressing within your own gym , its good enough I thinkkk
Do you wrap your wrists with tape or something else which is reusable?
I use both but I prefer tape
That yellow v2-3 in the beginning is a v6 in my gym
more hard climbs=more fun
@@Jonathan_sin88 yea i hope i get a chance to go there one day.
When I got a 1 dan climb in Japan I celebrated.
What is the song roughly @ 7:00-8:00?
The Dan-kyu system is awesome, but I think the V-grades they're claiming are equivalent to their dan-kyu grades aren't very accurate. The V0+/V1s which are clearly causing a V10+ climber to pull hard are hilarious.
It’s brilliant, when it’s set in this way, I feel like there are just way more climbs that are worth climbing
One thing that strikes me as a european climber, is the lack of crimps. Compare these boulders to the moonboard or famous outdoors areas around europe it seems like a completely separate style
Oh there were crimps🤣 i was too afraid to pull on them that’s all
"Shodan" is like how sushi restaurant apprentices have to wash rice for 5 years before being able to do anything else lol
sooo good
Thank youuy
Bro I’m going here in a month - scared LOL
Why do they start with 8Q = -V2 when they convert the grades? I feel like the difficulty would feel way more accurate if they just started with 8Q = V0
Cause it normally is, this gym is just off the cabrts
@@Jonathan_sin88 ohh gotcha
some omega sandbaging going on in this gym
The best kind
The grading looks like identical to bouldering in rock
niceee
no wonder japanese climbers are so good, they mark grades like 2-3 grades lower so when they get a v5 they really a v8
They just work climbs a lot more and are more comfortable with falling without giving uppp
the routsetters have to be joking, right? The first yellow V1 you did would be at least a V4 at my gym, or maybe even a V5
Hahaha it’s off the charts, literally
This Video is the embodiment of "V0 in my gym"
🤣funny enough people who climb in this gym would probs never say anything like that, they strong af but also humble af
Whoever came up with the "this v0 is a v5 in my gym" meme wasn't actually joking they just came back from this gym
😂😂😂
去成都玩玩，黑爆和339也非常的硬，导致这个视频居然没有对我产生过大地冲击
V0-1 basically as hard as V3-4 anywhere else In the world, lol
One of the routsetters at my gym grades just like this and it's great for killing an ego
It’s amazing, just think of it as getting a lot more things to fall off on, more climbs to learn from, THE BEST
@@Jonathan_sin88 thanks for the advice
Your grade conversions are a little off my friend. Shodan (初段)=V7/8 Nidan (二段) =V8/9 and Sandan (三段)= V10/11. The gyms are hard all over Japan.
I just used what the gym used!
Bro idk what v grades they’re using but it’s definitely not what the gyms I’ve been to are😭😭😭. My v4 is their v1/v2😭😭😭
ahha just different standards, nothing wrong with other gyms
So hard 😅
So amazing🤩
Japan just has stricter grading, and 段級位制 doesn't have any standardized conversion to V grading (especially as there's no reliable standard within V grading itself). The actual routes aren't inherently more difficult as Japan doesn't have exclusive holds or climbing techniques that the rest of the world doesn't have; you're just on the wrong grade if something is substantially more difficult than expected. Though, of course, if you normally climb at, say, a gym geared for 180 cm climbers, Japan's routes will not be as suitable to your body shape or what you are used to. That's nothing specific to 荻パン though. If anything, it's just a lesson in how inconsistent grading is across all of climbing especially when going international; nothing about the gym itself is more difficult than any other gym in the world.
thanks for the taking the time to comment!! Japan definitely has striating grading but I think what makes it hard is how consistent the climb is, how if you picked a climb at your level, every move is droppable, there wouldn't be a single flashy move and the rest of the climb is easy. I think it's the way they set here which separates them!
Kaizen
Albert OK said itttt