When polishing the inside of a piece, wrap your emery around a small dowel instead of using your finger. The dowel will act like a sanding block and apply even pressure across the moving surface. When you us your finger the pressure is uneven and the results will be far less accurate.
When test fitting the collet in the taper, you should have filled the collet to its maximum size with accurate ground stock... If the collet is empty, it will bend and conform to any close taper and not really tell you what you need to know.
Interesting video, just made my own Er40 collet chuck for my SB9". It is critical to get the boring bar bang on centre otherwise the taper will not be straight and will follow a convex or concave path with contact at the front and back and nothing in the middle or visa versa. Yours came out very well. Keep up the good work and keep the vids coming!!
Friend Please DO NOT put your finger in a turning spindle or work piece, you can lose it in a heartbeat.Great job on the video keep them coming. (with all your fingers)
Greg, Thanks for sharing your collet holder build. It looks like it going to work just fine. Hope you and your family had a great New Year's! We were going to ring in the New Year but I crapped out around 10pm. Woke up around 2:15am! Oh well! Maybe I'm getting old or something. (lol) Have a good one! Dave
Hi ! Nice work you di there - I just made such project for myself and I experienced that you have to put something in the collet before you use it for testing the fitting - without some stuff in it the collet just adapts to the champer you made. I used a 10 mm collet AND had some 10mm stock in the collet when testing.
I've learned at lot from watching many of your videos, but having made a few ER collet chucks myself, may I offer some comment. First, there is no need to guess the taper outer diameter or collet depth, it's in the DIN specification, plenty of internet sites give the dimensions for ER chucks. An ER40 taper finishes in a bore just a little over 30mm, not 25mm (or 1" USA). It is possible to obtain oversize collets for ER40 going up to 30mm, I have a set, very useful if you have bored the narrow end of the taper the correct size and started with a long enough piece of bar to make use of it.
hey Gregg great job I wish you had done this sooner before I had attempted to do the same thing for my ER 24 collets on my Barnes Lathe I have too much run out but I believe it's where it threads on to the spindle
+Bill Nebergall If you think it's the threaded portion it could be a little loose on the register section of the thread. You can always bore that a little bigger, make a sleeve and loctite/press fit it in place and re-machine for a tighter tolerance if you think that's where the run-out is originating from.
I am sure you are aware of the use of sine bars. I find setting up for taper turning is far easier if you attach a parallel to the compound and measure rise over run (tangent not sine) to calculate the angle. Doing it this way offers a far longer surface to reference and you don't have to worry about getting the clock at exact center height.
Great job Craig, thanks for sharing!!!!. I'm just thinking, if your indicator is over or below the tool center your reading is going to have some errors, because you'll be going around the part, what do you think?. Cheers!!!!
+Jorge Concheyro As long as you're eyeball center you will be ok. And error is going to be very small and you'll be bluing and fitting the taper after anyway.
When You check how collect sit on the hole You need to put a round bar (like drill) in collet and then put them in to correct check. Otherwise is not true checking. Sorry for broken english :)
After hearing that unpleasant chatter (it gave my dog a bit of a fright, too) I thought about how you could possibly use an audio filter to remove it. I tried selecting the offending part of the audio track in audacity, used the spectrum analyzer to find the frequency, and then ran a notch filter at that frequency. Cleared the chatter noise right up
+Rob Mckennie I have to say I like the chatter not to be contrary but it helps me know when something needs adjusting. When I hear it in others while they are working it helps me do better in my own work. It is far more informative than music or cleaned up sound. Just my two cents. Doug
Douglas Thompson I can see that perspective, but then you need to think about what the purpose of the video is. Is it purely informational? Is it purely entertainment? I think it's somewhere in the middle, but the question is where on the spectrum does it become acceptable to filter out unpleasant sounds? I would argue that when you have things like time lapse and music, you're probably already far enough towards entertainment to justify filtering unpleasant chatter
Are you able to get quick change tool block things that hold an indicator? Could be handy to have one that doesn't need to be recentered every time you use it. _Someone_ should make one, *hint hint*
I've just got my first lathe, and I'm still in the process of getting everything up to speed, but something quite critical i'm missing is way oil. I've been cleaning it with wd40, but that isn't exactly sustainable, and I've heard that engine oil can have additives that are bad for the cast iron. If I can't find a product labelled for use on the ways, what should I use?
+Rob Mckennie This is a big can of worms debated subject. 30wt small engine/compressor oil is non-detergent and works fine. Vactra 2 is a brand of way oil. It's a tad thicker and has additives to address 'stick slip'. The thinking is that using ND motor oil lets you use it more often to flush out the crud for the same cost as the more expensive Vactra. Asian import lathes usually recommend ND motor oil because it lighter and readily available while Vactra is made for heavy industrial machines and also clings better on vertical ways. On my small lathe I use ND oil with a dash of Lucas oil treatment for clingyness.
+Rob Mckennie I use the Vactra oil Eddie mentioned. You can get it from Enco in a gallon for not too much especially when you have a 20% off coupon. In all reality any non detergent oil that's slightly sticky (consistency of warm maple syrup) will be good. You may hear of people using chainsaw chain oil, but that stuff is really thick and sticky. Stay away. Straight engine oil will keep particles in suspension rather than letting them fall out which can turn it into a sort of metal grinding paste. That's why you're not supposed to use it. Honestly though any oil is better than no oil and if motor oil is all you got use it and just wipe the ways every once in a while and reapply.
***** I've heard of people using a mixture of kerosene and oil, do you think there's any benefit to that? If you were adding something that thins the mixture, would it then maybe sense to use something like chainsaw oil?
+Rob Mckennie People do that for cutting fluid. My personal opinion is I hate the smell and I don't want it being used on a machine that I know is going to get it EVERYWHERE. I've used Kerosene successfully as a solvent and used to have a hurricane lamp that used it as a fuel source. Other than that there are better less stinky alternatives even for solvents.
Good job I'm impressed
When polishing the inside of a piece, wrap your emery around a small dowel instead of using your finger. The dowel will act like a sanding block and apply even pressure across the moving surface. When you us your finger the pressure is uneven and the results will be far less accurate.
When test fitting the collet in the taper, you should have filled the collet to its maximum size with accurate ground stock... If the collet is empty, it will bend and conform to any close taper and not really tell you what you need to know.
Interesting video, just made my own Er40 collet chuck for my SB9". It is critical to get the boring bar bang on centre otherwise the taper will not be straight and will follow a convex or concave path with contact at the front and back and nothing in the middle or visa versa. Yours came out very well. Keep up the good work and keep the vids coming!!
I really enjoy your videos, and I appreciate the way you break things down.
keep up the good work.
Nice project video. You are getting really good at it. thanks for the efford you put in. Cheers.
Nice work. Looking forward to the next part.
Looking good Greg --- as others mentioned tho - test fit with something in collet is in theory more reliable. Look fwd to last part.
Friend Please DO NOT put your finger in a turning spindle or work piece, you can lose it in a heartbeat.Great job on the video keep them coming. (with all your fingers)
Greg,
Thanks for sharing your collet holder build. It looks like it going to work just fine. Hope you and your family had a great New Year's! We were going to ring in the New Year but I crapped out around 10pm. Woke up around 2:15am! Oh well! Maybe I'm getting old or something. (lol)
Have a good one!
Dave
+Swarf Rat
Made it to 1 before I crashed.
Hi !
Nice work you di there - I just made such project for myself and I experienced that you have to put something in the collet before you use it for testing the fitting - without some stuff in it the collet just adapts to the champer you made. I used a 10 mm collet AND had some 10mm stock in the collet when testing.
This is a great series
Very helpful video. I am in the middle of making a MT5 to 5C collet adapter and holder.
I have the Noga indicator holder as well , just love its flexibility and stability. Waiting to see the metric threads.
+Lost Pup
One of the best purchases I've made in tooling.
I've learned at lot from watching many of your videos, but having made a few ER collet chucks myself, may I offer some comment. First, there is no need to guess the taper outer diameter or collet depth, it's in the DIN specification, plenty of internet sites give the dimensions for ER chucks. An ER40 taper finishes in a bore just a little over 30mm, not 25mm (or 1" USA). It is possible to obtain oversize collets for ER40 going up to 30mm, I have a set, very useful if you have bored the narrow end of the taper the correct size and started with a long enough piece of bar to make use of it.
keep the videos coming. good job
Great series (but please take good care of the fingers)! Thanks for sharing.
hey Gregg great job I wish you had done this sooner before I had attempted to do the same thing for my ER 24 collets on my Barnes Lathe
I have too much run out but I believe it's where it threads on to the spindle
+Bill Nebergall
If you think it's the threaded portion it could be a little loose on the register section of the thread. You can always bore that a little bigger, make a sleeve and loctite/press fit it in place and re-machine for a tighter tolerance if you think that's where the run-out is originating from.
Nice demo of the art of Indicator Wrestling around 6:30 :)
+Mark Sinden
Sometimes you just gotta make it fit.
I am sure you are aware of the use of sine bars. I find setting up for taper turning is far easier if you attach a parallel to the compound and measure rise over run (tangent not sine) to calculate the angle.
Doing it this way offers a far longer surface to reference and you don't have to worry about getting the clock at exact center height.
Instablaster...
Great job Craig, thanks for sharing!!!!. I'm just thinking, if your indicator is over or below the tool center your reading is going to have some errors, because you'll be going around the part, what do you think?. Cheers!!!!
+Jorge Concheyro
As long as you're eyeball center you will be ok. And error is going to be very small and you'll be bluing and fitting the taper after anyway.
You need a dedicated toolholder for the DTI, which must be DEAD on center height.
When You check how collect sit on the hole You need to put a round bar (like drill) in collet and then put them in to correct check. Otherwise is not true checking. Sorry for broken english :)
informative, as always. thanks.
Keep u a rag & a spray bottle with alchohol by the machine if ur bluing out surface finishes or seals often....comes right off...👍...
Good video
After hearing that unpleasant chatter (it gave my dog a bit of a fright, too) I thought about how you could possibly use an audio filter to remove it. I tried selecting the offending part of the audio track in audacity, used the spectrum analyzer to find the frequency, and then ran a notch filter at that frequency. Cleared the chatter noise right up
+Rob Mckennie I have to say I like the chatter not to be contrary but it helps me know when something needs adjusting. When I hear it in others while they are working it helps me do better in my own work. It is far more informative than music or cleaned up sound. Just my two cents. Doug
Douglas Thompson I can see that perspective, but then you need to think about what the purpose of the video is. Is it purely informational? Is it purely entertainment? I think it's somewhere in the middle, but the question is where on the spectrum does it become acceptable to filter out unpleasant sounds? I would argue that when you have things like time lapse and music, you're probably already far enough towards entertainment to justify filtering unpleasant chatter
+Rob Mckennie Doesn't really show up nearly as much in person, but the camera seems to pick it up real well.
Are you able to get quick change tool block things that hold an indicator? Could be handy to have one that doesn't need to be recentered every time you use it. _Someone_ should make one, *hint hint*
+Rob Mckennie Been there, done that and would have bought the T shirt but it was out of hours.
good vid. good shortin a bit.
I've just got my first lathe, and I'm still in the process of getting everything up to speed, but something quite critical i'm missing is way oil. I've been cleaning it with wd40, but that isn't exactly sustainable, and I've heard that engine oil can have additives that are bad for the cast iron. If I can't find a product labelled for use on the ways, what should I use?
+Rob Mckennie This is a big can of worms debated subject. 30wt small engine/compressor oil is non-detergent and works fine. Vactra 2 is a brand of way oil. It's a tad thicker and has additives to address 'stick slip'. The thinking is that using ND motor oil lets you use it more often to flush out the crud for the same cost as the more expensive Vactra. Asian import lathes usually recommend ND motor oil because it lighter and readily available while Vactra is made for heavy industrial machines and also clings better on vertical ways. On my small lathe I use ND oil with a dash of Lucas oil treatment for clingyness.
+Rob Mckennie
I use the Vactra oil Eddie mentioned. You can get it from Enco in a gallon for not too much especially when you have a 20% off coupon. In all reality any non detergent oil that's slightly sticky (consistency of warm maple syrup) will be good. You may hear of people using chainsaw chain oil, but that stuff is really thick and sticky. Stay away. Straight engine oil will keep particles in suspension rather than letting them fall out which can turn it into a sort of metal grinding paste. That's why you're not supposed to use it. Honestly though any oil is better than no oil and if motor oil is all you got use it and just wipe the ways every once in a while and reapply.
***** I've heard of people using a mixture of kerosene and oil, do you think there's any benefit to that? If you were adding something that thins the mixture, would it then maybe sense to use something like chainsaw oil?
+Rob Mckennie
People do that for cutting fluid. My personal opinion is I hate the smell and I don't want it being used on a machine that I know is going to get it EVERYWHERE. I've used Kerosene successfully as a solvent and used to have a hurricane lamp that used it as a fuel source. Other than that there are better less stinky alternatives even for solvents.
Looking good -------------- Thanks
Cough cough ! Good vid Cough LOL
How the hell are there already 2 negative votes?
Traus long ton reglage degouten
HoHo, the finger in the hole. No good. This is a very bad exemple for beginners.