Building an ER collet chuck: Part 4
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Last part of the collet chuck build. Turning the thread diameter, cutting the metric threads, and final fit up and testing. Part 4 of 4
For a more in depth video on how the metric gearing works go here: • Metric Threading on an...
I really injoy the "PIP" that offers a different perspective augmenting the detail. I wish that others would follow suit. It's adds a new learning plain and answers many questions. Also Thank You for your terrific choise of music! JD
Came into my shop to work on my SB 415 restore. Got nothing done. Just finished your "series" on the collet chuck build, one after another. Very well worth the time to watch. The 30 min videos are fine... just enough to have a beer and enjoy.Thanks!!
+David Miller
Ha! Making a collet chuck for it? :-)
The zoomed in camera angle showing the carbide cutting away is awesome!
agreed. love the close-up of the insert just peeling metal away!
Brian Walk u
After scouring the Net for info on cutting metric threads on a Southbend 13, I clearly need transposing gears. Thanks for the tip Greg. I even thought of making collets and nuts in imperial but that would be very restrictive if I want any commercial ER 32 toys later. I always want the ability to make my own stuff so I bought a M40x1.5 mm threading die. Problem solved. Now I can make tons of fixtures and only need to buy the nut and collets.
That was an excellent series for a project. I was planning on making the same thing in the near future and you confirmed many of the ideas I had. The metric threading had me a little stumped until today. Thanks!
Excellent. The metric threads still freak me out. Will have to watch again. Nice job.
Liked a lot this new series and also the new metal projects you accomplished.
Very nice job on the new chuck and I like the 25 to 30 minute format looking forward to any new projects.
Dave
+David Cashin
Thanks!
Good job Greg , the collet chuck build has turned out well.
Really like that close up photography of the cut! Doug
Thanks for the videos on the ER40 Chuck build. Finished mine today and the run-out using different sized drill rod is .001 and out 8 inches from the chuck it's .0015. I followed your video on the band saw piston and that worked out great too.
Thanks Again
BPG
Sweet build there Greg, I'll be making one as soon as I catch up with the world. Thanks
Don't forget the Bearing type nut, well worth the money.
Thanks for the vid
I had to watch this series again ,JUST BECAUSE I LOVE IT .. LOL.. Great job man !
Excellent build. Congratulations on another holding fixture.
Excellent! I had not seen that make-a-mark on the thread dial technique before. The videography was superb. I could watch the controls and the threading at the same time. I just love ER collets. And you can stick a threaded piece in them and not damage the threads. I am told that it is possible to zero the runout on an ER collet. You do it by tapping the nut tighter or looser. . I tried it. You can really improve runout, but I couldn't get it to zero.Maybe there is a trick.
I don't think that is done properly. The half nut should not be disengaged, only spindle run backwards.
+Simon P
As long as the carriage is not moved, the dial does not make a full rotation, and the same number on the dial is used, the half nuts engage on the same spot on the leadscrew everytime
Greg,
Great work! I think you did a damn good job considering you have to cut and massage the taper. I like the idea of half hour videos. I don't know what kind of internet connection you have, but uploading a 30-minute video will free up more of your time as well. This will allow you more time to work on other projects or explain the finer points of carbide vs. HSS cutting tools to the wife! Thanks for allowing us to look over your shoulder on this build.
Have a good one!
Dave
+Swarf Rat
I'm still trying to get her to at least make a cut with the lathe. SO far no interest.
Quite an encouragement to my entry skill. Great learning from you. Thank You!
Love the series man that s a job well done
Nice job! I've been planning on making an ER32 chuck for my Atlas, though it keeps getting bumped down the project list. An idea I've been kicking around for lapping out the taper would be to get an extra collet, Loctite it to a dowel pin or chunk of ground rod for a shank, chuck it in the tailstock, and load up the spring slots with valve lapping compound. Extra points if you make the lap shank an Morse taper for even mor accurate alignment than a drill chuck. If I ever get around to it, I'll let you know the results.
Great job. I'm impressed. That's better than most.
Awesome Video. I had the same idea to build an collet chuck for my lesto lathe. Thanks for your video.
Jens
Thanks for the series Greg, I really enjoyed seeing you keep it together while threading in such a foreign manner, you really just kept at it and even if you edited out the curses, it was still apparent you had to keep your thinking cap on to "Get'r Done!"
Hoping this New Year brings you and your family all that is good and grand, Aloha...Chuck.
P.S. I don't even have a threading dial, and will be trying to make one this year...wish me luck! ;)
+Knolltop Farms
I almst screwed up a couple of times. It;s so natural to move the carriage back to its starting position I had to remind myself to shut off the lathe.
+Halligan142 You really pulled a rabbit outta the hat on this one, I really learned allot on this series. Thank you so very much man, you're a great guy for helping shlubs like me ;)
Thanks for this great video, now to try it for my 1909 Southbend.
Good job, minimal run-out, nice lathe.
Congrats on a nice build. I second the nervousness on seeing your digit in the bore there--a guy posted the picture of his stump from doing that a few months ago on FB. He was using Scotchbrite, but same principle. Stuff can go wrong really quickly.
I guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost my password. I love any help you can offer me
@Casey Casen instablaster =)
@Immanuel Ameer Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Immanuel Ameer It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
@Casey Casen Happy to help :D
Great project! Great video series! I enjoyed this as much as I did the eagle oil can series.
+Dustin Masters
Thanks! I'm trying to get more projects like this going.
excellent work
I congratulate you as well, great video and very good job thank you for posting and sharing with us.
Greg nice job on this series! Very usable info. thanks again! Mike
Great series, I may have to try my hand at making one of these.
awesome job ........... I don't think my lathe will cut metric threads. Mine is a Reed - Prentice 16" lathe, but I love watching you do your projects and learning. Keep up the class, I mean your videos.
If you have to measure a thread pitch without a gauge, don´t try to measure from groove to groove.
Set your caliper to the width of 4 or more grooves and hold it onto the thread. Much easier to see if everything´s ok, especially on finer threads.
One note: Even if you´re perfectly in the groove, still count! Six grooves of 1.25mm and five of 1.5mm both make 7.5mm.
+sthenzel
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for sharing, I like your vids! Tip; when measuring something recurrent like threads, measure several instances and divide measure by number of instances. That way your measurement error will be smaller per instance (thread in this case). :-)
Nice project. Thanks for posting it.
Excellent video , well done.
Nice tool build. Thanks for the video.
great work your videos are appreciated.
may I suggest that when measuring threads with a caliper it would be more accurate if the measurement is taken over a number of threads. cheers
+Charles Camenzuli
Thanks for the tip!
Looks great Greg. If it wasn't for the camlock spindle I'd build one myself. Makes me wish I had kept the old Logan....
Colin
I am glad you sold your old Logan and I regret selling it.
+Scott Frankland As old as it was it was nicely appointed and quite useful. Great to have around for smaller jobs.. :-)
Thanks for the vids! I'm going to try a collet block using this method.
Bon travail merci pour le partage (de France )
Excellent 👍
Brilliant. Thanks Greg
A really really really good way to test shop made tool holders for the lathe is to turn a piece of stock concentric and then obviously put a Teske John it show concentricity and then turn it out of phase 90° and then recheck it then it will be the best way to test it you'll know exactly how much run out
My lathe is an australian made screwcutting lathe, and as such it was designed to cut as many different kinds of threads as possible, including both metric and standard. It originally came with 2 different thread dial gears, I'm pretty sure one of them is lost forever but it shouldn't be really tough to make a new one. My thinking is that therefore someone who has a lathe that only ever came with one or the other should be able to convert their thread dial with a custom gear.
+Rob Mckennie
Southbend offered a metric thread dial. It had 3 gears stacked on a common shaft. Each gear was for cutting a specific metric pitch range. I've never actually seen one in person or even for sale so I'm assuming they're on the rare side.
***** parts for my lathe are all but non-existent, but my thinking was that it wouldn't be terribly difficult to make one from an aluminium blank
+Rob Mckennie FYI, here in Sweden I have rarely seen a metric thread dial. The reason is that we don't measue pitch in TPI, or TPM as it would be for us, but rather as 0.5, 0.75, 1.0 mm etc. These don't always match up to an even number of threads per meter, which makes it impossible to use a regular thread dial. Those that exist consist of complex gear arrangements (which make them expensive), and don't even support all possible pitches I believe, so you would need several to use them for all pitches.
Most people usually leave the halfnut engaged for the whole threading operation, which can be done with a little finesse, and if you leave enough of a recess behind the thread.
Very nice job.
Nice project, well done.
Nice end result Greg. :)
+ChrisB257
Thanks!
nice job! very good result concentricity
Excellent video project. I'm in the process of building an ER-32 chuck for my Craftsman lathe. Or I was til I stripped the gears in the banjo. Zymak don't ya know.
I was going to suggest you use something to hold the emery cloth when you were polishing the inner taper. Don't want to see you missing digits in your next video.
+MarkBall3
Yeah the rip fence on my fathers old craftsman table saw was made from the same stuff. Cracked and crumbled. Some sort of nickel alloy from what I hear.
I think 1/2 hr is good. Thank you.
Nice build, but two quick thoughts, if I may?
1. If you had made the mandrel from slightly thicker stock, you could've turned it to the 1/2" diameter between centres, thereby guaranteeing concentricity.
2. Did the collett chuck really need to be that long? Making it as short as possible, would keep it more rigid, thereby reducing the risk of flexing.
grate project. i was just thinking of making one my self just a 1936 South Bend C
Something to learn
Nice build!
Great project
Nicely done!
nice work, thanks for the video , the 30 min.video thing is a good idea ..
Hi halligan, great series. Loved watching them. I'm a beginner but I can really see myself making the collet chuck. Would you do a video making something similar to your tool post?
Thank Greg a great Video
I Like it. Thanks for sharing.
Quick question--I'm just learning about ER collets (thanks to your video series)--Why did you go with ER40 rather than
ER32? Reason I'm asking is that the 32 sets seem to go cheaper, and they are more than 1 inch, which I think was your goal.
Early in the thread process you said the depth of the thread was 1.5. You also said the pitch of the thread was 1.5. I don't do many metric threads and have to admit, you lost me when you said that. Do you use some canned formula for your calculations? Nice project. Do you also have a CNC that you can borrow your ER collets from?
Joe Pieczynski I’m pretty sure that the dials on his lathe show the total change in diameter rather than the depth of cut, so to get the correct thread depth he has to use a dial reading of twice the thread depth.
Beautiful adapter.. how much to make one for my heavy 10. Was chatting with a guy at hardinge today to see if they had something for this very thing…nice work.
Nice job.
I learn a lot from you,,,want to make an ER Chuck for my 12 inch atlas, only problem will be the metric treads, but if I find USA collets I should be able to cut standard treads?
nice work .
You didn't need to disengage the half nut. Should've just slammed reverse when you backed out
No better chip breaker needed. From you closeup shot I can see you just need to take deeper cuts. You need to make deeper cuts than the nose radius on the insert to make the chip breaker effective. Then dial in the feed rate to get best results. If your machine has to little power to do that get inserts with a smaller radius. Insert tools are intended for hard use, people baby them way to much.
+oudijzergek
And lower the cutter, it looked like the cutter was above the centerline. So only the very edge was working.
+Wood Chucker
Camera angle and parallaxing does that. It's on center
I am going to built mine soon, my lathe has a LOO type spindle & I need to know if once finished machining this, If I harden it will it wear down the captive ring nut in the spindle as that is hardened too.
This might be silly, all I need to know if making a hardened thread will create problems for the hardened ring nut.
Too bad you didn't fine tune the collet to better than about .5 thou. If you had used a 10thou indicator, you would probably have practically no run out compared to what you have. I have 2 10 thou indicators, and it's amazing when you think you are good, how much better you can be with them. Go to a garage sale , tool flea market, or other location or ebay and get yourself a dial indicator in 10 thou, and a test indicator in 10 thou. you'll be glad you did. That run out you had at the end was something I expected unfortunately.
It was a nice build, but that was one flaw that would really have been nice to have avoided. Even w/a 10k indicator, you would still have some inaccuracy built in, but that 3-4 wobble out there would be reduced to about 1 thou hopefully.
I like the 30 minute videos better, sort of like sections/chapters of a course. Also you may want to zoom out just a tad more on the close up. The one over the lathe when threading seemed too close, especially when you had the second view in the corner. Most of the close up shot disappeared behind the second corner shot. Otherwise excellent project, look forward to the next one.
how do you get so smoothe finishing cuts :/ mine is all jagged and looks like a really fine threaded bolt haha.
i just bot one in a flange though I would make a adjustability l flange what do you thick 10 throw floatability to adjust run out, Les England ,
Yes you can just mount it to a backplate and oversize the holes slightly so you can loosen the mounting bolts and then tap the collet chuck around to adjust runout.
Where did you find the 54t and 80t gears? What is the bore dia. for these gears? Great series, far better than the original collet set up.
+Ken C
54 and 80 tooth gears are a part of the standard model B or C change gear set. You can usually find them on e-bay
really like your work.
when you cut the thread why do you disengage the leadscrew and then re-engage rather than leaving it engaged and simply running back and forwards (only cutting on the forwards obviously)?
By disengaging it allows me to precisely stop the tool in the spot I want it to. By just using the motor you run the risk of over or under shooting. Also I don't have to worry about backlash.
You may want to counter the drill hole for balance.
Put lathe in reverse and threading tool up side down
How is the work piece held on the nose of the spindle of the mandrel?
It's directly on the threaded spindle. Take a peek at the previous videos.
Have just dragged a Sheraton (South Bend clone) into my shed - about 4 feet long. What tool holder are you employing? coz' I'd like one myself
hi... could you throw me a hand here... i just bought a logan 820. could not find a decent south bend near my place... it came with cast legs.. but i think is to low... and i want a bench with drawers for tooling... how tall is your spindle center from the ground??? i don't like to bend my back to see what i'm doing... thanks in advance...
Make it whatever is comfortable for you. I just extended my hand and measured where it would be comfortable for the handwheel. I believe my bench is 36" tall if I remember
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Nice camera work picture is so clear are you using a GoPro ?
No regular camcorders. I use them because I like having zoom. The picture in picture camera is my older Panasonic hcv-500. The main camera is a new Canon Vixia hf r62. got it for its ability to take an external mic and lenses.
I wonder if sacrificing a collet and using grinding compound on it, gently feeding onto the collet holder to even out the taper runout would work. Worth a try???
How big a motor are you running on the 9? Mines a 1.5 and it really bogs down a lot
Andrew Phillip
It's the original 1/4 hp motor. There was an option for a 1/2 hp motor. If you're stalling a 1.5hp motor something is wrong. Remove the motor drive belt and spin it by hand to make sure the bearings aren't binding. Other thing to check is motor voltage. Make sure you're not running a 208/230 volt motor on 115 volts.
I now have the same south bend you have. What size QC tool post are you using?
Wedge type AXA
@@Halligan142 Thanks for your reply. I'll be getting one for this summer's work I have to do in the shop.
Is that threading dial on a lathe common in the US? I have never seen something like that on a lathe here in Europe.
+3MrP3
Yes very common although it was an extra purchased option on these particular Southbends
+Halligan142 Thanks for the answer
+3MrP3 See my reply to Rob Mckennie for an explanation to why we don't use them =)
Better to reverse the direction cutting threads, you never have yo worry about running into ? You guess
... maybe time to think about going metric? ... tough to swim against the tide forever
i like your lathe whats the name brand-thanks
Excellent set of videos! I like 30 to 60 minutes long vjos. 10 mintues is way too short of time to show very much.
Feed rate is too low to break the chips
good video love it cant you make a taper and lap it ?
+Bleu Wolf
This was my thought, only use the collet itself to lap it in.
+The Thing
In this case he may not want to do any more tweek'n until he uses a gauge pin or mill tool shaft to get a real reading..
Lapping using the collet itself would impart matching changes to it's dimensions. The holder would only be well matched to that one collet. Turning a taper would be much better.
Thanks for the series. Great video technique. I like the 30 minute length. Question, wouldn't it be best to drill an opposing hole of same depth to balance tool holder?
Of course your safety Nazis are correct, but if you do continue the practice please try and have multiple views. Nothing draws viewers like blood and gore. Like NASCAR everyone likes the race but most comments come from the crackups. Be safe.
Satire aside, it is probably a better practice to have the emery backed by a straight flat surface instead of irregular finger.
+Morris Gallo
It's not really taking a whole lot of weight out so it's nor really that much of an issue. It's just easier to do one hole than perfectly opposing holes on a drillpress.
With the 54T/80T ratio you pretty much got yourself a 6mm lead screw.. So what would happen with a 24T gear on the thread dial.....? 🤔
Do you have 2 channels basement shop guy and this one..LOL
I've just been on there other channel ranting that the ER collet chuck
video keeps disappearing..ahahah
Ha! He stole my look! Brad's a good guy and friend. Met him at Keith Fenner's place when he came up to deliver the WIYB giveaway.
what movie The Moon a little bit more sense to check up the metric threaded cap remove the threads and then adjust the size and we cut them in standard. although now that I'm saying it yeah maybe not
One more thing, did not like the close up of you cutting , was not necessary or advantageous.
+Wood Chucker would love to see some of your work