Charging System Update (Motorized Bike)
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- čas přidán 24. 02. 2020
- After several failed attempts to make a charging system for our electronics, we learned a few things and discovered a strange issues with the ignition system on the 66/80cc motor.
We also replied to some more viewer comments.
You can contact us on facebook at "LA Hover"
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The magneto only has one winding (coil) as you have discovered with the white wire. Being a 2 pole A.C. generator it produces (lets say for arguments sake) a positive pulse on the down stroke which charges the CDI and a negative pulse on the up stroke which triggers the CDI...so there is no positive or negative wires on the magneto but a "phasing" if you connect it backwards the plug will still fire but 180 degrees out of phase so the engine will not run. You will not harm the CDI...if you try to absorb either the positive or negative cycles from the magneto (to power something else) it will either not charge the CDI or not trigger the CDI...either way no go...hope this helps understand whats going on with the china girl ignition system which is light years ahead of the old points type systems which were horrible...this system is basically maintenance free although no real adjustments which is both a good and a bad thing...
Simple and easy to understand. Thank you for pointing this out :)
thank you thank you thank .its the problem i have 180 out , makes sense now why i ,ve got a spark but not firing
Best explanation you can get online!
This is a beautiful comment thank you.
Also the coil will rob spark from the magneto and the motor wants to run on the coil.
Okay.., remember that cute silver box you first bought... that’s called a voltage rectifier and regulator. It converts AC to DC by rectifying it, and regulates the output to 13 volts DC, which will run your LED lights just fine without the battery. You have to add that, along with the new secondary coil you added. Leave the original wiring alone, add the 2nd coil, the two wires coming from it should feed the yellow or white whites which are INPUT on the regulator, leaving a red and black... guess what those lovely wires are for? :). No battery necessary.
Hey guys and girls. My name is Gary. I have been building and riding motorized bikes for several years now.
The best thing that I have found to help with motor vibration transfers to the frame, is SIMPLY wrap the frame of the bike with electrical tape if mounting the motor directly to the frame... Or if you have to use a U-Bolt to mount an additional adapter plate to a frame use a snug fitting piece of rubber tubing (thick fuel line) to put the U-Bolt through like heat shrink.. the fuel line will allow you to tighten the mount securely to the frame and provide some vibration dampening safely.. that is you will have to periodically do checks on the integrity of any plastic or rubber parts on these bikes.
Hope this helps someone. Have a fun and safe ride everyone.
Shimano, Sturmey-Archer, SON, and many other companies have made front wheel hub generators. Sturmey-Archer alone goes back about 75 years. Unlike the constant drag of a small armature being turned by the wheel, there is no felt drag because the armature replaces the axle and the magnets rotate around it. It should be more than enough to keep your devices charged, whether the engine runs or not.
This is actually the very first comment I ever made in my lifetime. I share the interest in these motorized bikes, but the best part of your videos is the honesty and your ability to admit when you aren't sure of something. I'm so sick of wasting my time attempting to re-create something that was from the beginning a sham from people just looking for likes and popularity without any reguard of the actual truth. For this reason you are awesome, and thank you.
Love to see a growing fanbase on your channel bud keep it up.
I have a small bike trailer I use for longer hauls and I have a charging system on the trailer. It has a Pully on the wheel and a rubber band that turns a small electric motor to charge 2 3.7v batteries in parallel. I use 5v leds and they work fine. The charging system gives out 4.4v at about 10mph so I can charge while I ride and have power at stops from the batteries. I’ve even installed a connector on the trailer so I can connect the bike. Meaning I can run the bike lights off the trailer batteries/charging system.
I have built many motorized bikes. My current is an 80cc (66cc) cranbrook. The reason you have a problem with your CDI killing the engine is because you need to separate your CDI and the charging generator. I have a 2 coil set up that the CDI runs off of one and the other coil provides the amps to run my headlights, taillights, blinkers, brake lights, and speedo light. its all LED. It also has a rectifier and it both powers everything on my bike and still enough left over to charge the battery at any speed above idle.
I have watched you for a while and I Just wanna say keep up the good work!!
Thanks! it means allot :)
LA Hover Ofc, I also have an motorized bike but it’s pretty small, (It’s a bmx) And It’s working just fine!
Thank you sir! Can’t get mine to run enough to find a leak… so this is our next fix…… hope it works. So tired of fighting this thing.. especially when it ran soooooo good at the beginning
Hello mr hover i enjoy your videos & your persistent acctitude on motorized bike,, torepaired & upgrades, thaks, very well explained, say hello from panama, joe, i have a 2t motorized, i learn a lot, w your videos thanks, keep sharig, loe.
the best way I,ve found is just bolting it right against the frame...I have rode the crap out of mine within reason of course and have yet to have anything vibrate loose, I do check it over about every other time I ride it just because its good practice... it seems to have a lot more issues with even a thin material between the engine and the frame, it also foams up the fuel in the bowl with the rubber mounts which starves the engine of fuel...that was frustrating, I just happened to read an obscure post in the depths of a motorbicycling.com forum about it and the rest is history...thanks for another upload man
Love your videos. I agree with you the rag joints are just fine. I did order a cheap hub adapter and broke three spokes and bent a few more. Although I had the bolts good and tight it just didn't hold. Then I noticed the inner surface of this cheap aluminum adapter wasn't quite smooth and flat. There was even a casting line right in the middle of the gripping surface. My solution was to hone it with a brake cylinder hone. My Cranbrook has the 1.5 inch hub so it's a bit better than a 1 inch for gripping area. Then I sanded the paint off the hub and added JB weld before torquing the bolts down. The hub and adapter are now (hopefully) married for life. Maybe that was a crazy thing to do but it's holding.
Cheers
Gord Schneider
Vulcan Alberta Canada
JB Weld is King! it will last longer than the rim.
Build your own bridge rectifier with 4 diodes.
sounds like you have some good peeps in your comments
I subscribed to your channel. I'm a retired motorcycle mechanic, & bike builder. Since this is 4 months old I assume you have figured it out by now. The white wire on the little 66cc will power a 6v light without damage or power loss.
I just finished assembling a motorized bike and I was not able to turn it on, needing to check spark plug, magneto, carburetor and after testing everything I realized that I needed to open the throttle gas to the maximum and give the bike good pedaling velocity, only that way I was able to put it to work. Thank you for your advices.
Thanks for the soldering tips man
No problem 👍
My man mounts all his motors with rubber right from his first bild years ago and had zero problems all positive everyone that rides them say how smooth they are especially when reving high compared to there's or friends
Love the vids like he said u gotta start somewhere got me a 2021 Schwinn sidewinder a tadddd on the small side for the pk 80 lol but got that thing strapped up somehow and have been watching all the vids I can on getting this awesome first motorized bike going I wish I saw that taft vid tho before I bought mine lol 😂 all good just made a crazy setup for the carb to fit and I'm off to the races keep up the great vids 👍😁
Большое спасибо за видео, было очень полезно, очень интересно, и ты меня уберёг от подобной затеи, потому что у меня были точно такие же идеи. Thank you, you save my money
Been watching a few of your vids, my first and only kit had an o ring on the carb, still haven't decided what bike I'm gonna use (have gathered a few over the years) the thing to consider is how a shorted coil can affect the magnetic flux lines developed from a rotating magnet. I.e. if you load down an alternator electrically the drag on whatever is spinning it increases. There is only so much magnetic flux to go around, the plates of the lamanite help to direct what flux is available, perhaps sucking them away from the bare bones rig that comes with the motor. Still have the motor clamped to a pipe on the bench. Don't be afraid to jig up a new rim, been doing it for 30 years and you just have to do it to get good, swapping a new rim is jumping in with both feet and there's no going back after that
I looked into one of those 12V generator coils, but I was pretty skeptical about how much current it would generate. Major props for using a battery and rectifier/regulator though!
Speaking of regular rectifier how do we wire that into these motorized bikes I have the 12 volt generator
Me too…. Would like to use it…. Is that a horn on LA’s bike near the steerer tube?? That’d be cool!!
I do like the idea of the Velcro. I built one of these about 3 years back, poorly, and I was constantly having to cut zip toes when I needed to work on something. but it held up for like 2 years which was pretty good. when I gave it away the engine still ran, but the mounting hardware and everything else was falling apart due to me not knowing what I was doing at the time and I was tired of messing with that one. I think that I am going to give it another go with a better bike this time now that I know what not to do, hopefully I can make it a bit less sketchy this time. by the end of things with the old one I had the engine held on with copper wire because the studs stripped out.
The thing with rubber engine mounts is that the rubber should be contained so that there is no room for much movement. The clamp needs to contain the rubber tightly. The clamp should have sides on it keeping the rubber under the clamp in it's place not letting it move. The rubber is only there to absorb vibration. Sides on the clamp will not let the rubber squish out the sides when tightening. It should make it compress, making it tighter. The hard part would be is welding sides on the clamp or machining the clamp so the rubber will fit into a pocket. I like doing 4 strokes because I get to make my own mounting points.
My own plans for an electric system involve a dedicated generator hooked up to the magneto, but only using the magneto physically cuz it isn't controlled by the clutch. I will hook up to it using basically the same way a pull start hooks up to it, just a lot more flush.
Heck the greatest hope will be for an electric start.
Also ac to DC converters are called rectifiers.
I THINK, the Bullet Train kit has a built in charging system. That is the kit with an electric start.
I still feel that an external alternator would do the trick and one day I will try the small John deer alternator! If they can run them on radio controlled air planes we can on a motorised bike!
Love the videos
i have a standard 50cc china doll, wow such fun, i went on an adventure today, for 4+ hours! still has fuel in the tank!
anyway, just wanted to say, i lowered the needle clip in the carb one notch, it definately runs better, faster and better, cooler, it was lean asf.
You should get a center kick stand so you don't have to wrestle the bike when you work on it
Depending on how comfortable you are with modifications, You might be able to utilize a duel set of Magneto's and coils. Mounting them up in the coil area(would have to find a new way to seal that area) would allow for enough power for both the motor itself with a "stand-alone" system for the lights, horn, etc. It would still be ac current, but you might be able to find lights that would work off of ac current or like with LED lights they might have adapter bulbs for ac current. Hopefully this will help.
The coil puts of way more voltage then you think, and next to nothing for amps
Good job bro
After watching this video and reading a few comments there are a few people that are misinformed the reason I say this is because there is a difference between a magneto and a stator. A magneto is like what you would find on a lawnmower where it is a coil pack with a spark plug wire coming directly out of it mounted next to the flywheel. And a stator is a coil pack mounted next to the flywheel with two to three wires connected to a CDI that connects to the spark plug
Hey what if we turn our own magneto with a diffrent thickness or different number of turns. Could it generate more electricity??
Thankyou, you got my name perfect ;)
with all the help from the comments from the last video i found it to be bad oil that didnt help the four stroking and carbon build up..
A good clean thru-out, fresh gas/oil mix 30:1 and she sounds alot better, not perfect but better, just ordered a pack of jets to play with next. :)
im sure il have many more problems il need help with along the way, but for now thankyou guy's! and keep the great videos coming
Happy Birthday HENRY!!
Good to hear! Have fun with the jets, these carbs are so simple and easy to pop on and off that you should enjoy trying different ones.
As you may know, carbon build up in the combustion area causes an increase in compression. In an engine setup to run at normal compression this will cause performance issues. Overheating may also be a problem.
Did you buy the front light and the rear lights on ebay? Are they bright at night? And do you have an idea how many watts is the front one? Because im thinking to buy one of those for myself.Thankyou
Idk about 26in wheels but I respoked a bmx rear wheel for the first time and I've done 4ft drops since then and had absolutely no problem, it's not hard just takes patience
Hey, great videos, keep em coming.
I saw the rubber drive belt kit on amazon any opinions on this?
Thanks! And yes, I have that on my to do list. I don't know much about chain vs belt drives, but I can't wait to try it out. It looks safer and more reliable, but I wont know until I try it.
I've taken my triple 40 on a 30 mile straight shot one stop around 18miles for a drink. Highway, cruising around 30mph which is in the higher rpm range on my bike. It was a booty call so I remember very well.
Buy a wheel generator off eBay or Amazon and hook it up to a battery. With the wheel generator alone it can run all your lights.
Since you have a full Circuit. Going to the Killswitch when you disconnect that powerline cord ground whatever it is coming from the coil that interrupts the full circuit even though you can turn off the battery and there’s no problem it won’t kill the motor when you disconnect that cable it automatically kills it because there’s no fuel circuit to the Killswitch and back-and-forth.
I'm not sure if you figured this out, but I'd love to know what you did to hook it to the battery to have the battery charge. I bought a voltage regulator that converts AC to DC, but I'm not entirely sure I have it wired correctly, or what I've done wrong. On the bike, I have the red wire coming from the generator coil. From there the red wire goes to the regulator (pink wire), and the green wire coming off the regulator is my Negative terminal, and red being positive. I look forward to you hopefully responding. Thanks
growing up, my old man had this light on his bike that was powered by this device that goes up against the tire and the spinning tire spins this little generator and powers the light. you may be able to recharge the battery with one of those. depends on the output and ud have to set up something so it doesn't overcharge
I bought a '6-volt generator light set' like what you described.They're about $11. At 15 mph it burned the bulb as it was too much juice supplied.I changed to LED bulbs and the cheap POS' fell apart from vibration.Bought quality bulbs and it's ok.
I connected an oscilloscope to the magneto, and discovered that the stock coil only produces around 1W of power. Based on the wiring diagram of the stock CDI I found on the Internet, only 1/2 of this power is used to power the ignition. The other half, could be potentially utilized using some electronic circuit. This electronic circuit, yet has to be developed. However, 0.5W is not much to power an LED. As for the auxiliary coil, its problem is that it messes up the magnetic field for the main coil because it locks the magnetic loop even though there is no physical contact between them. The gap is just too small. There is nothing you could have done to make this system work. It was a good decision to stop.
Your regulator should be a half wave rectifier use that in conjunction with the secondary coil and you'll have power.
for vibration dampening i cut an old tube into strips and made it wrap around twice.. its thin and soft enough it still gets good grip on the bicycle but does help with the vibration some .. been running this for 4 years
also used 1 strip on the bar under the tank also. idk if helps any but i have never had a bolt break or leak and my bike has fell over a few times also
I tried the rubber mounts when I first put my bike together with terrible results. It was so darn herky jerky at low speed acceleration that the left side of the frame broke loose from the rear wheel dropout. It has been welded and gusseted on both sides now and solid motor mounts installed. The motor runs pretty darn good and the bike goes much faster than I need it to or want to ride it to. It does easily over 30mph with a 44 tooth sprocket. I want better, smoother low speed rideability. I would like to put a 48 tooth sprocket on it but I can't remember who I bought the hub/sprocket from and don't know if the three bolt mounted sprockets are a standard uniform size pattern spacing. Anyway, It seems to have gotten a little herky jerky at low speed acceleration again so I checked motor mounts for loosening. I have the studs double nutted. I broke the locknuts loose and tightened the mounts- they do seem like they were a bit loose. I tightened the locknuts back up & took it for a ride. Still a bit jerky at low speed. I was thinking of making a steel shim to slip behind front motor mount strap in effort to better lock motor solid to frame thinking that maybe the motor mount strap has stretched or bent somewhat. Maybe using rubber as you suggested would work well. The bike is a 26" 1980s Schwinn cruiser style bike with the 80/66cc motor. I don't know why anyone wants to ride a BICYCLE over 30 mph! My bike's sweet cruising speed is faster than I need to go- probably 20-25 mph range. I'd like it to loaf along like that at a slower pace- probably 15-20 and be able to go much slower than that under the motor's power without chugging it. As a kid I have built mini bikes, go carts...as an adult have been a stock car racer, drag racer, and have owned motorcycles since I was 16 yrs old so I'm not afraid of speed- at least not in or on something that I feel comfortable at speed- haha. As much of a speed demon as I was as a kid I don't think I ever knew how fast 30-35 mph was on a bicycle until I put a motor on one! Everyone wants to go faster?! Maan. Be careful.
@@mickangio16 most of the jerking I have ever dealt with was at slow take off or as I let off the throttle and the cause of this was the chain being slightly loose and it bounces causing the jerk. I fixed this by adding a spring tensioner onto the motor and now it run smooth at any speed because it always keeps the chain tight. this is the one I use www.amazon.com/Spring-loaded-tensioner-Engine-Motorized/dp/B07NXX4PV4
Gotcha. I also have the spring loaded chain tensioner but maybe could use a couple links taken out of chain for more tension.
Thanks. I'm gonna take a couple links outta the chain & give that a try.
Need a little help first-time with a motorized bicycle first time riding one first time building one but I get up to speed but it won't turn over when do turn over it shuts right back down I did all that just made it to the Bingo adjust the clutch I adjust the throttle cable I adjust the idle but it still won't stay on when it do turn over what else can I do if you don't mind me ask
I watched your video and remembered I had a Dynamo on my Schwinn Stingray when I was a kid. It worked great and was relatively cheap. I looked them up and they are on amazon pretty cheap and with LED. both front and rear light. Under 20 buckerinos. Not bad. I was thinking if you ever have a problem with the motor, how do you transfer your magneto to another motor or a bike without the head ache. Well with the Dynamo its really easy and its contained on its own circuit. I understand if the Dyanamos / bike friction, light by STVZO certified from Germany. These are actually the best low friction, low noise and have been tested optically for the road. However they are not cheap. I am going to buy chepo. LOL ! - but if its to loud or has too much drag then I will see how much the motor bogs or if it affects the mpg and to see if it can even handle higher speeds. Keep up the great content :) Oh, absolutely loved the 4th ehem 5th of July video and those awesome bangers. Now just think you also ate some bangers too. In england thats what they call hot dogs. LOL !
I was thinking of going the $25 Dynamo kit also & maybe modding it. Coz the removable rechargeable head/tail light kits sounds like a pain. I had a dynamo when I was a kid & remember it didn't cause very much drag. I was thinking of taping some NiCad batteries together & making a crude on board dynamo rechargeable system. Add an on/off switch & wire it so the lights can be ran straight off the battery pack or the generator. Then use the generator to either run the lights or to recharge the Nicad battery when riding in the day time.
I have a $5 digital voltmeter laying around I can connect to the NiCad battery. Since the batteries are cheap, the charging doesn't have to 100% accurate. When the 6V battery bank voltage reads say 6.8V you know it's full charged. When it's down to say 6.2V you know it needs recharged. I think I have some old cell phone batteries laying around I could solder together to make a battery bank. They're lithium instead of NiCad but free so if I ruin em, no loss. Even if I don't get the rechargeable battery pack made to work. I think a decent dynamo kit would still be better than dicking around with a removable /rechargeable head/tail light kit. I wish someone would actually make a decent low priced motorized bike lighting kit.
I'd buy the one in this video, if they figured out how to make it work & provided some instructions.
I just signed up for amazon affiliate links and it took me about 10 minutes. Super easy. You should consider it.
may we get a tutorial and links to put a good generator on our bikes?
If you have anything grounded to the handlebars, you need to put a jumper wire capable of carrying the load from the handlebars to the frame. The bearing race with its grease and the fact that it may be insulated from the frame by paint will not allow a reliable ground path.(the races are in the top and bottom of the vertical tube the fork stem passes through, as I'm sure you know; which is most likely painted.) . It is my contention that the kill switch (normally closed) opens up the circuit from the magneto to the CDI, stopping the flow of current to the CDi. This makes more sense to me than the idea that pushing the button somehow provides a direct short to ground, something that in most instances is to be avoided. It would be easy to test with an ohm meter. If you have landed one of those wires on the handle bars to cut down on clutter while assuming that the current would be carried from the handlebars to the frame as a ground path, that may be a part of your problem. This is just an educated guess, an example would be the ground strap from most gas powered ICE automobiles (as opposed to diesel). The rubber portion of the motor mounts prevent a ground path from the engine, and thus the spark plugs, for instance; to the frame to complete an ignition circuit. Not being able to see the circuitry, I can only guess where the fault lies.
Solid information. Although I ran ground wires from each device to the batter I would not have thought about the poor connection through the head set, Good to know. As for the kill switch it is a "push to close" circuit (short). The motor will still run with the kill switch wires unplugged.
The scenario that u referred to as 'engine flex' is commonly referred to by automotive mechanics as 'torque twist', in a high performance drag car application, this initial 'impact' or 'shock' can cause a lot of damage to many driveline components. Many people solve this problem by installing solid metal mounts and/or 'engine plates' - a steel or billet plate cnc-machined to the shape of the front mounting surface of the engine block, this is then sandwiched between the timing cover/water pump etc and the block itself, these components are also machined down in thickness to compensate for the thickness of this engine plate.
I think this example I have provided from the automotive world tells us that we already have a head-start in our motorized bicycle application...
I tried hooking up lights to mine but had the same problem
Just a quick tip ,
Try get starting it
Pull clutch in kick the pedal then drop the clutch
I can do it takes practice.
So much easier when working on it
if you are soldering, the lead free stuff sucks. I guess it does not matter TOO much with wires and stuff, but when working on circuit boards and stuff where you want nice pretty joints, the good old leaded solder is so much better. a good quality flux paste or flux pen is also really helpful sometimes.
Did you ever try it without the kill switch plugged in?
for all I do remember , many years ( very many ) the motorcycles and scooters used to have a magneto coil dedicated only to the ignition an another dedicated to the lights and accessories , is that I remember ,now I use a Ebike
Nice 66cc with 49cc sticker ;)
I don't know if you know this person but lookup youtuber pulsar2121 80cc 2 stroke motorized bike build ep8- generator installation plus he also has a video on bike wireing which is ep18 hope that helps and I'm getting my first bike so your videos gave me some help. keep up the awesome work you do.
Thanks, and yes as a matter a fact, he is where I found out about the 12 volt coil in the first place. Guess I should have paid more attention to his videos. I think his last upload was 2 years ago, I wish he still made videos.
A great way to respoke a wheel completely without any stress about screwing up
-- take the tire and tube off
-- remove 1 spoke , replace it immediately with the new one.
-- tight it to approximately to a what it was
And repeat one spoke at the time
And finally retrue the wheel ( shouldn't be too out of wack
--
Isolate the coit from grounding to the motor and run an independent ground to your electrical circuit from the coil
would a zener diode fix that problem?
You need to replace the magneto starter part to a higher level in order to provide enough power to charge a battery at the same time. The magnetos they come with the bike engine is only designed to produce enough power to run just the engine and whatever else you want to push your luck with.
LA Hover, do think some kind of rubber bushing in between the motor mounts and frame would help with vibration?
Yes, but there is a limit. The motor can pull to the left and mess up chain alignment. I take it you are running mostly street? If so get a smaller rear sprocket to help you reach your desired speed at lower RPMs... There for reducing vibrations.
@@LAHover Thank you for replying so quickly, I plan on doing some trail riding too. It's just a thought, I will probably just set it up as intended but when I have a few miles on the bike I'm sure I'll experiment with it. Cheers
Sooo... you needed to isolate the parts of the motor that are in contact with metal and avoid placing or fix the charging system directly on the frame???
I'm having issues with my engine cutting off when I come to a stop. the engine backfires, but in a odd way it usually makes a big popping sound like one to times, then it cuts out
That headlight is really bright who is it made by?
I just installed the Bikeberry CDI ignition. It was recommended to add their Super Magneto for a bigger spark. Also available is a bigger magnet. I did not buy. I may later. I'm not a Sparky . But maybe that's the magneto for you.
consider using a light generater to charge the battery. Just thinking it might work without the motor!
I saw a video were a guy took a roll of bare wire and wrapped it around the Magneto and he got the charging system to work try doing that Mr. LA Hover please
Bridge rectifier and 4 super capacitor's in series. Should make about 12 volts d.c ? Triumph dirt riders did this in the sixties with a big fat zener diode to regulate the voltage
Did you ever find one to run everything
I used a AA powered lights and they turn off when the motor turns on. Help!!!
I'm a bit late to the party - but the magneto coil would definitely be interacting with the generator coil through inductance - no physical connection required. I'm no electronics/electrician whiz either, but the two fields are probably acting to cancel each other out. Now... in theory... it should be totally possible to grab some voltage, but I feel like the DC-generating coil would need to be basically far away from the magneto coil. And even then, it would probably need rectification etc. It's why it's so tricky to understand how a car's alternator works - they seem simple enough, but they're deceivingly complex.
(in my best british gentlemans voice) As a matter of fact i have seen the rain sir to much really
its been pouring buckets since october
LMAO... I always look forward to your comments! Ride on Brother!
@@LAHover l.o.l. thanks man keep the vids coming hope your able to figure that chargin system out
Wow!! All bullshit aside LA..At 250lbs. I always easy ride her but she still manages a steady 34 mph on flat ground.And I don't think I've ever pulled the throttle passed half way.
Awesome review Hoover I had a quick question I recently replaced my piston with the two O-rings because the old one was kind of wore out and when I replaced it with the new one it barely turns over now like it’s having a hard time compressing for some reason is there any particular reason why that you may know of ? Thanks in advance!.
I noticed that when I remove the cylinder head cover it compresses just fine but when I put it back on and torque the bolts back on there it has trouble compressing I don’t understand could it be that the new piston with the O-rings may be different than the old one?
I did some final adjustments Hoover now the motor turns over good, I get good compressionThe magneto is working fine because the spark comes out of the spark plug but for some reason it still doesn’t turn on I took the carburetor completely apart and cleaned out the Jets and everything so I doubt there’s anything wrong with my carburetor
The ac charging system needs a voltage regalter it converts ac voltage to to 12 volts dc
I was going to say this but yup that’s correct
where did u get the mirror from?
Amazon, but they turned out to be junk. I have a mirror comparison video coming soon.
we have had some really shitty weather recently and i drive the bike on dirt roads and the sand gets in your hair and shit and its so annoying but i noticed your bike had mud sheilds. Were did you get them cause i definetly need to buy a pair
What time is it Latin money bicycle let me get that I can get up to buy if you ruined you offer motor alternator in Samsung yes
You should look into the bullet train from BBR it comes with electric starter battery and all built in alternator it's a centrifugal clutch...it would be perfect for that bike
first try drawing out your ignition and charging system,see if you can complete a complete circle. keep in mind every cutoff switch,ignition,and safty switch completes the circut on the negative pole. must have complete circle in order to allow the power to flow thruout the back. side note extra carbon buildup is caused by too much oil in the fuel mixture.
You could try a magna hub (a wheel that generates power) or a frame mounted generator that runs off of the back tire
Good idea, I might give one a try :)
@@LAHover I have a wheel mounted one that runs 6 volt (I think)it came along with a headlight on an old AMF roadmaster from the late 70'S ! I also purchased a slightly newer used bike that had a head light and generates and they were both junk compared but a magna hub If you can find one might be your best bet!
I saw a guy on a youtube vid a couple years ago who had rigged up an actual generator which ran off a pulley going to the main drive (bevel) gear. It's just a matter of how motivated a guy is I guess and how durable the setup can be.
Is this the engine with the hex bolts? I've heart these are better. If its not, how many problems have you encoutered? Im new to your channel and i enjoy your videos a lot!
This one has no hex bolts. I agree that the hex bolt motors are better. However this is a Seeutek, Seeutek motors have great reviews, and mine (now 3.5 years old) has never given me any issues.
Can you link the parts?
Have you ever used it was called on eBay a CNC bolt on sprocket adapter it's a two piece inner and outer sprocket that doesn't compressed against the spokes
Ya, my trail bike is running one, and I have one almost ready to be installed on this bike as well. I just need to key the hub and it's rdy to go.
just get a big can of spray and spray the whole bike one colour, just to neaten it up!
is fromt wheel hubs with generators expensive in the U.S
you need to use a led light and add a second magneto right on top of the exsisting magneto with steel spacers is works
You need a battery to charge so the coil will not die from supply needed. Your CDI Should have a diode to stop the battery power from frying the magneto. But is sounds like the battery did fry the charging system.
I completely forgot about installing a diode... lol not sure how I over looked that, but I think you are 100% correct. Lucky the coil was still working when I took it off the bike. Good thing I did not keep running with it. Thanks for the info.
@@LAHover I have not hooked my battery up to the white wire yet. But I put in a 6v. rechargeable battery from an emergency light. You know the one that comes on at a public building when the power goes out. You can get them on-line for about $6.00 or at Home Depot for $20. It can be installed upside down with no problem. I made a box and laid it on its back. That is what I am working with. It will not be bright enough for the night ride. But they will see you. I enjoy your videos. It is a learning channel for so many.
@@LAHover hi so the first thing i suggest would be to connect 12v incandescent bulb to the to see if it can power that then mesure voltage and current then try connecting ether more bulbs or more powerful one to see what is the maximum power you can draw from the coil. If the coil able to suply significant amount of power then you need a full brige rectifier to trurn ac into dc current the regulator you bought shuld have it inside together with voltage reguliator but its made to charge a battery that's why it doesn't have a capacitor so insted of geting nice dc voltage you get pulsating one. Never connect ac voltage directly to a devices that require dc you may permanently ruin then.
If the regulator doesn't work out the biuld your own full bridge rectifier and get a dc to dc boost buck converter they are more efficient then linear regulators but only do that after you make sure your coil able to supply the power nesery but you still migth need a small battery to hellp supply power when engine is idling. Hope this was helpful sorry for bad English.
@@LAHover why don't you just order working bike lights online.. they have wireless bike lights horns etc you know ...save the hassle
@@chc754 other than not running off the motor, the system I built with my own two hands is working great on a battery ;) ... It just feels good to build things.
Ya I know all about the ignition system on the 2 stroke motorized bike #1 they do not like to go any faster than 20 mph or they short out due to to much juice being generated . # 2 when you have no spark with a new plug change both cdi and magnito and check strength of the magnet . Then you don't have to go back over it again unless your new parts are defective . #3 make sure you tape your electrical connections water tight .
Have you thought about trying to get this to electric start? Just curious if it's possible 😅
I have looked into the e-start kits. They are on the to-do list.
my 66cc kit worked well with a scavenged a led flashlight and homemade led taillights i built a second bike for a friend and his died like yours antime i added any load also. was working on a rechargeable battery back to smooth out the flicker at low rpm, but it thru a needle bearing pin from wrist pin intomy stroke
Hook a 12v li-ion battery to your lights. A generator can be the last thing, I've had my battery for 6 months as of now, attached motorcycle headlamp and a rear bike lights. Last for 6-8 days fully charged, comes with a cable charger.
LA Hover do you still want help with the charging system because I have the 12 volt set up but I never installed a Battery to it
plus I've seen how you wired it on the video and it was Completely different from the way I did it
You are my favorite person to watch when it comes to Motorized bicycle stuff and I just wanted to see if you still needed help with this because you haven't talked about it since this video
Thanks for the offer. I'm going to just stick with rechargeable light for the foreseeable future.
Hey there, could I get an explanation of how you achieved it? And no battery for you huh? I'm just getting into motorized bikes and I'm absolutely determined to set up a proper electrical system, but I can't decide if I want to go with a magneto system or try to set up a pulley driven alternator. But any tips from someone who's actually done it would be great, thanks!
LA Hover, I like to heat your comments I think you say a lot educational information that I really appreciate, this is the 1st time I comment in the internet I started putting together electric bicycles just lie a hobby about 3 years ago, right at the same time the pandemic hit us I had build many electric bicycles, at one time family and friends come to my house and I was able to put 10 electric bicycles and we all jumped on the bicycles and went riding the streets of San Bernardino the City where I live, it was a lot of fun, after that satisfied experience I took all this bicycles a part and stored them, like to mention that I’m a certified welder and fabricator it is natural to me to build, rebuild, or even fabricate from scratch ether way is been an absolute experience and fabulous adventure in my life, since ten I been having a lot of fun, like I build one test and take a part again, also I had build my own battery packs, I been learning to do all this thanks to CZcams and the super inspirational people like you that make all this videos, without it I be nobody, but I’m getting ready to make a video or two of the last projects I’m working on, till then I will keep watching videos of wonderful people like you and all the CZcamsrs that inspired me to make something out of nothing. Thank you all so much. Julieo
Yeah I’d like to know how you hooked yours up as well
Have you tried a wheel dynamo they use them on touring bikes to charge phones lights and stuff
Heck I never even knew about them. Thanks I'll go have a look.
Did you ever find a good suspension fork that would fit a cranbrook?
No sorry, but I did not do much digging.
Noice buddie I got a question what oil ratio should I run for break in on my motorized bike
Patrick 16:1
18:1 for 4 tanks then 24-1 unless you wanna clean out your pipe with heavy duty pipe cleaners and scrub the fouled carbon build up off your spark plugs every 10 hours
16-1 is just overkill, let's be reasonable. A regular 2 stroke 80cc requires 24-1 with 3 heat cycles and a small putt in each gear n shes good to rip. I dont see why a 66cc would require more than a 79cc.
I think that happened because of the steel mounting brackets on the generator coil being mounted with the same bolts as the regular coil so when its not connecting to the battery it just short circuts the ignition coil which in turn shuts of the motor in the same way as the kill switch would
Edit: thats just a theory I actually have no clue what I'm talking about lol
maybe the generator coil is causing the ignition coil to ground out some way it hard for me to really know without being there to look at it