THE SKID FACTORY - [QUICK TECH] HOW TO WIRE THERMO FANS
Vložit
- čas přidán 22. 03. 2019
- Support us on Patreon: / theskidfactory
Buy merch here: theskidfactory.com
Today on the Skid Factory Al explains the method he uses to wire in a thermo fan on vehicles that don't have a factory switching method or an aftermarket ECU.
Don't forget to subscribe and hit the bell for Weekly episodes of this build.
For updates keep your eye on The Skid Factory (TSF) here:
Facebook Page: / theskidfactory
Instagram: / theskidfactory
Please note: We like to make interesting car mods and show you how we've gone about it, but we can't promise that anything we show you will work for your particular car, or that you won't harm yourself, someone else, your car or your warranty doing it. Please be safe, be responsible and unless you know what you're doing, do not fool around with very serious machinery just because you've seen us make it look so easy. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
The Auxillary fan switch we used is from a 1980's BMW. It was sourced from our local parts shop but can be purchased online. tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/483/switches-and-sensors/2014/thermo-fan-switches/278/TFS106
VAG car of similar era had them too, my Audi Coupe had same. Probably same supplier, Bosch, Siemens or VDO. As said, you want to right operating range.
G'day Al thinking outside the box I see😉😊👍👍
On ya buddy .😉
BMW Part numbers are:
61318376440 for an 80c/88c part (94~99 318ti)
61311364272 for the 91c part
61311364273 for the 99c part
61311378073 for a 91c/99c part
If opting for a dual temp switch, the connector can be had from most E30's, E36, E38, E39 and E46. Pretty sure the connector changed for the e6x e7x, e8x and e9x cars.
Isn't the 14 x 1.5 the same thread pitch as spark plugs and o2 sensors. The tap should be commonly available at most parts houses.
Question: What is the reason for wiring both fans to the same relay? Or, is one maybe bigger than the other? Wouldn't one always run with the ignition on? Just trying to dot my I's before I consider tackling this project.
This is the sort of info we all need. Not, "hey look, I bought a supercar!"
Barje. Waffles
Solid stuff that anyone wanting to set their car up right can use
Timely for me, I've been thinking of putting my electric fan back in, the past few days. Will be wanting to pick a good temperature switch for purpose, if so.
"Don't know what a relay is? *Find out.* "
😂 Love this guy
Norway Gatebil for your lemon squash!!! Love it!
A master class from professor Al, what a way to start a Sunday.
Trashing on Muricans for not using SI units allways makes my day better.
SI units didn't get us to the moon. :^)
@@murph9935 no. That was the spacepast. You've since converted to metric, the spacefuture. I can't believe the rest of the USA is deliberately delaying the spacefuture as long as possible.
@@murph9935 The only place muricans use SI units is space exploration (specificly ISS because they are obligated to do so), so your argument kind of makes no sense.
We use both, and the minority of us that payed attention in school learned both as kids. Its not exactly hard to switch to what ever measurement system makes the most sense for the task you are doing. If you meet an American that doesn't know how to use something like metric or celsius or any of that, it means they are an idiot.
over 324,000,000 americans, and a good majority of them wouldn't know SI units if they fell over them.
yes they're trying hard to catch up, but it'll be generations before they're up to speed with the rest of the world. then it's a matter of the smaller 'imperialist' countries (Liberia and Myanmar/Burma) and there's no guarantee there
If you want to remember the relay pin numbers and never forget them. Relays are BET-A (pronounced better)
In the order from lowest to highest
30 - Battery ( High amp input)
80 - Earth
85 - Trigger ( What trips the relay to provide power to active)
87 - Active ( High amp output from relay)
86 is negative.
@@dicktaylor2600 BETNA? Catchy.
30 isn't battery. It's just INPUT. It can be positive or negative.
I've never seen an automotive relay with an '80' terminal.
@@dicktaylor2600 - or positive. You just need a positive and negative on 85/86, either one can be the pos or or the neg.
@@TheTalonts unless you have a Ford Bosch 40 amp relay with an inbuilt diode
GATEBIL cover for your lemonsquash😁
Norway and gatebil would love you guys to visit us🙌🏻 it is the best car track weekend ever!!
Agreed. Trip from NL was totally worth it. Will come back for another time!
Definitely using this at TAFE as a teaching resource
I'd prolly listen to Al talk about anything. I kept trying to think of a witty "I would prolly listen to Al talk about..." But everything thing I could think of, I was like Damn...I would listen to that and be interested, I bet other people would too lol...much love brudders.
Very informative. The only change I'd make is the fuse in line to pin 30 and as close to the battery or power souce as possiblr.
Those chainsaws were the most perfect background track to a skid factory vid. Elevator music for the enlightened.
Thanks 👌👌👌
I have learned more about understanding wiring watching Skid Factory than I did with 5 years as a mechanic and 18 years in the parts industry. Sure you learn basics/theory, but you cover the details. Keep up the awesome work.
Another good thermo controller would be the davis craig one. They are around $50, have independent control over 2 fans, an input for the ac compressor, shows the temp and also allows you to adjust what temp the fans kick in. Pretty sure the range is some where around 40- 120 degrees c
damn, pretty cool!
I've done a lot of thermo installs and never thought of using a switch like that! Game changed! My project lexarse is getting this for sure!
I know I've said it over and over again but Al, I am so greatful for the knowledge you share whether its stuff I've forgotten along the way, new stuff or just a refresher, it's great to have someone with such an extensive knowledge of vehicles that's willing to share that knowledge with the world. THANK YOU!
Al and Woody this was excellent! I learn so much from watching you guys. After watching this, I can wire in the thermo fans for my old man's 302. Thanks a lot!
Oooooohhhhh finally a top tip I can give AL, rather than the other way around... I have used this sensor, but in a much better place. Just behind where he's put it into the modified bleed plug, there's a "bridge" joiner between the two heads. I just drill a 6mm hole in the middle, then run a modified spade bit using the 6mm hole as a center to create a nice big flat land for the sensor to seal against (20mm). I then open the hole further with the drill and run the M14 tap into it. You first drain a bunch of coolant out and pull the top hose off, so you have a vacuum cleaner suck all the swarf out of the top radiator fitting as you drill. Works great and it's not the highest point of the motor where you can have clearance issues with the bonnet in cars (rather than the C10 or suchlike where there's heaps of headroom). Having that sensor sticking up out of the bleed point just looks funny, this is heaps tidier IMO
Chainsaws are a distraction, but I do like the little background bird calls that slip into the Skid Factory videos now and then. It reminds me that this is not being filmed on some sterile sound studio. It's in a working shop out in the countryside. Nature. Gotta love it. (when it isn't leaping up in front of your dirt bike and breaking your bones)
Wonderful advice! Ive been trying to figure out how to do the fan wiring for my car and that is way simpler than what I was coming up with. Please do more videos like these, theyre super helpful.
Simple, straight to the point. Good job lads!
Thoroughly enjoy these "quick Tech" great bit!
I do enjoy your no frills approach to your videos 👍
Great as always! Thank you!
Love the Gatebil can cooler! I have one myself.
This years main event at Rudskogen, Norway is 12-14 July
Great way of doing it! Did similar in the early 2000's when I chucked a RB20 in my 180sx (a dumb thing to do). Had a boss welded into the thermostat housing and I think it was a Peugot switch though. We purposely used a slightly lower range switch to allow for the temperature difference. Worked a treat!
Love this Quick Tech format
Keep up the good work. Love ur channel and the loads of experience based advice.
What a time we live in indeed. 👍
Legend Al! Gotta wire up a fan for my mishimoto half rad for my honda, just what i needed 🙏
This...super handy and exactly what I needed. Thanks guys!
A basic on/off switch for your fan is kind of low-tech old school. Look up PWM fan controllers if you want variable speed fan control for quiet operation under normal conditions. Using the diode to make sure the fan is running when the A/C turns on is still a good idea if your PWM controller doesn't have an override. Keep sharing these little electronics how-tos, so much of modern tuning is in the electronics and it's great info!
I know this is 3years old but…
You should put your fan temp switch near the water pump intake. This will turn the fan on only when required.
By placing the switch near the thermostat, once the engine reaches operating temp, your fan will run nonstop… 😉
Just came back from slapping a 1uz in an mx63 cressida to realise i can't use the stock fan (among other things). So that little thermo switch trick is what i call a perfect timing! Thanks guys!
Awesome!!!! More of that please!!!! Thanx Al & Woody
The skid factory library of knowledge. I dont need it today but i might need it tomorrow. thanks
Great video guys. Being the genius I am, when I finished wiring my thermos in I tested them only to discover I had a massive amount of air blowing back out of the front grille 🤦♂️
I have done this too lol
!
It's good if you drive in reverse a lot.
Mate, at least you did the right thing and tested it first!
Before I start watching this video, just wanted to say that I have my own method for wiring thermo fans.
Some thick ass wire to the batttery and fan, and a heavy duty toggle switch. Just switch it on when needed.
Speaker wire and a small crappy switch is not a good idea. It starts fires. I know this from nearly burning my car to the ground one time. My solution works alright, but I'll watch this and probably re-do it because Al knows what he's doing a hell of a lot more than I do.
Edit: Awesome video. Pretty simple concept, or maybe he just knows how to explain things well. Diagram helped. I'll have proper fans that turn themselves on in the near future.
Thank you!! This has truly been a very helpful video!!! Very good explanation of how and why.
Skid Factory Videos - Online learning at its greatest
Brilliant information, thanks Skid Factory
Excellent topic and video. For those in the USA, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TS288. Turns on at 91C, which is about 195F.
thanks for the advices Al !
Thank you so much Al! Was needing this info explained how you did! Too little info thats not easy to find in detail about it! Again thankyou
I found that very useful indeed :) keep up the good work guys !!
Awesome video, loving these useful bits of actual information especially as I send this video to a bunch of mates as now I can prove they are wrong haha.
It's worth noting that the relay in Al's diagram is a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw). Both terminals the fans are connected to switch at the same time. Many relays you'll find are SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) where the middle terminal is 87a. If you're following Al's diagram make sure you've got a SPDT relay or you'll be really confused about what's happening if you replicate his circuit.
Nice video. Thanks for sharing this stuff. 👌
I have spent the last few days surfing the youtube high seas for a proper video on how to do this, all i had until this video was people just wiring them upto a switch on the dash, congratulation on beeing one of the only people on youtube who actually know what they are doing. Question, I have an 80s sh*t box with no ac, can I get away with using a 1 pronged sensor or will I have to do extra steps (welding, drilling and tapping not an option at the moment), but the 1 wires seem to be the right size for the stock port. cheers in advanced.
little current controls big current.. I think I was just saying something like that last night. Love more skid factory!
In two position relays the center pin is normally closed... Awesome explanation!
Al is such a wizard when it comes to electrics.
So I now know you don't need to go to the ingintion for a ignition source. 👌
Mate you are an absolute life saver
very good video Al. thanks for sharing mate. wish i'd have had this many, many years ago when i reverse engineered this.
ive used that switch to repair late model BMW that have pulse width controlled fans. thumbs up
I need to do this to one of my cars! Thanks so much.
Timely info for my project, as the way I had it wired up before decided to melt the power wires out to the fans rather than blow the fuse. I know how to properly do it, but have always been, for better or worse, a "don't fix it if it isn't broken" type. Going down the rabbit hole of pwm control when I fix it here soon.
Side note, if you showed up to most any car show I've been to with a 1uz in a late 50's Chevy like that, pitchforks would likely come out, grumble grumble, some BS excuse on how carbs and leaky 283's were how things were meant to be, etc. I love it!
thanks yoda been doing this manually when ever i stop
Keep up the great work boys, love the vids 🇭🇲👍
Good knowledge bois thanks for sharing!
May be helpful to point out that there are a couple different layouts with 5-pin relays. If the output terminals are listed as '87' and '87b' this method will work because they are both NO (normally open) contacts that get closed when the coil is energized. If the output terminals are '87' and '87a' this method won't work. Terminal '87' is still a NO contact, but '87a' is a NC (normally closed) contact. This means that '87a' will be connected when the coil is not energized, and it will switch to '87' when the coil is energized. Using the drawing, Fan 2 would constantly run until the temperature switch closed, then shut off and Fan 1 would turn on.
Thanks mate you'd be surprised how hard it is to find a simple video like this
Thanks for the great info.
Still got that Gatebil stubby cooler I see!!
Love these videos btw guys, I am a sponge when its comes to educational automotive videos and love learning from you Al :)
Should be a fuse to the thermoswitch, a fuse to the positive supply before terminal 30, and then a fuse for each fan after switching to each fan too :)
This video is going to useful,I plan on putting a set of twin thermos from a ef/el falcon into my eb.
Awesome. Love this techie stuff!!
Excellent video tip Lads
Gotta love 1uz content...especially in an old Chevy. I gotta get my 1uz swap done in my Malibu
Good stuff guys
Great video guys...hope you guys are far away from that storm....
Yes a long way away from both.
I see you got some love from scandinavian mates sending you Gatebil stubbys. Really cool!
Good timing I needed a diagram how to wired it up 👍🏿👍🏿thanks Heaps
Ford medium duty trucks in the 90s used a diode that was the same package and fit as a atc blade fuse, we use them alot for the same fan control because its heavy duty and fits in a regular fuse block
I always put the thermo switch on the cold side of the radiator. This works really well and even better in cold climate since it isn't always necessary to start the fan if the airflow trough the radiator is high /cold enough.
Thanks for the info ;-)
Again in the perfect moment
You could also use another relay (yeah more parts) if you don't have a diode. Use the voltage on the A/C to turn on the 2nd relay, which then turns on the fan.
I have a sc400 and I've been tryin to figure out a good and eazy place to put it. I know this video is old but it helped soo much in where to put the switch
Good job
Good old thermofans. See all to many of them on the ignition on switch method even with ecus capable of controlling them. Hopefully more diy guys watch this and learn from it
Had mine hooked to ignition in a Camira that I drove from Sydney to Lightning Ridge then to Kingaroy area in Qld, back to Sydney and then up to Cairns without failure.
Only detail missing that would probably help people understand is: "why do you need a relay?"
You need a relay because most of the circuitry in the car is low power (ie. low-voltage and low-current) and although this circuitry is good for control (acting like a brain) it is too weak to drive big things like fans. Even if you get your fan or whatever to turn on it may actually cause your wires to melt.
So to fix this, you can have full-power connected to the relay and use the control circuitry (low power) to trigger the relay into passing on lots of power to big beefy things like lights and fans.
But Al is right - there's lots of good info right on youtube. If a video gets too technical or whatever don't lose heart just look for another video that fits you better.
That BMW thermo switch is a real all rounder. If you have a late model KTM500 EXC that boils in the tight stuff and frustratingly the fan never comes on, swap out the KTM part with this switch and you’ll never have the problem again.
The cap is the breather port when you fill the coolant. Highest point of engine to vent trapped air.
Cool! !!Thanks mate✌✌✌✌
That Ram flow 👌
To non-car people this must be one of the most boring videos available on youtube, but I could watch stuff like this for hours.
HaaaaHHH Sunday mass with master Jedi :) the sermon was too short!!!
Stop complaining and pass the plate around.
Hell yeah! U R fabulous!!!!
I like the Porsche/audi 3 pin switches. Great for 2 speed fans.
@Yoda You should also have a diode from the thermo switch so that the power from the A/C doesn't go back upto the switch - if not done it may reduce the life of the thermo switch.
Al's diagram is perfect for hooking up dual horns too (if you replace the fan switch with your stock horn circuit). Thanks Al!
You mean the horns would blow when the A/C turns on?
@@fascistpedant758 you have me thinking as soon as summer gets here, i'm going to find out...
Great vid fellas!
(Not)Pro tip from me. A lot of the BMW e36 TFS are a 3 pin switch (two different temperature ranges) that you can use to control the 16" 2-speed fan out of a BF-FG Falcon (later model, big single fan with a power resistor and 3 pins).
Wiring in two relays you can have the low fan speed setting (~8A running) triggered from the low-speed switch, and a high speed setting (~20A running) from the high speed trigger. You could also have the AC trigger the high-speed side.
This will start and run the fan on low speed until it needs to hit high speed. It's even kinder to the fan and your car's electricals as you wont be switching on/off the full load current (in-rush current can be huge for a large fan), but a little more complicated on the wiring (but still relatively simple once you have a diagram).
Literally the best 'How to' videos on the internet. Hahaha
I use a pressure switch on the liquid side for the A/C system (usually just use a high side safety switch on a T same one used to cycle the A/C clutch) and run the switch on the Negative leg (pin 86). By putting the switches on the Negative leg I don't need a Diode.
As always great video.
TdrSld you always need diode or resistor parallel to coil no matter where you switch it. Or you dont if spark over the switch is ok and no electronics involved then ok. But diode is there to provide path for coil current as if there is no diode to "continue the loop" after switch is opened coil energy will be dissipated with a spark somewhere. In bad case the point for spark is at relay coil lacquer layer slowly destroying the insulation on coil and breaking that relay. Normally it is just small spark inside the switch which those usuallu handles quite long time, but having the switch on pos or neg side has no difference for this. Just like capacitors do not like shorting out coils dont like opening live circuit, except in ignition where this feature of a coil is used on purpose.
A good source for automotive diode are GM mini fuse style, easy to find, available new, and since it's a mini fuse style you can easily wire it in with any mini fuse holder.
I think those are meant to suppress inductive spikes. I'm not sure they'd be great for this.
To be thorough, you should be using TWO diodes. One from the compressor supply line & the other from the temp switch, with both cathodes connected to terminal 85 on the relay. As for the diodes themselves, the common 1N400x would be considerably close to it's max current rating when powering a Bosch type relay. Whereas an 1N5404 would have ample headroom for this task.
Need some Skid Factory "lemon squash" can coozies!
Great info, thanks!
Do you guys still have radio shack?
Pretty much gone here in the states
Tridon TFS110 and TFS111 are 3/8" are good for v8's - TFS111 is best. If you have a/c you use another relay to turn on the fan. Ford 40 amp relays available on EA to AU can handle most fans. If you are using the FG single fan the Davies Craig controller works well as it turns on the slow speed before the fast speed
I've had auto sparkys probe the under-dash harness for ignition, and find the climate fan instead. Worked great until winter rolled around...
Wicked job guys. I love the way you repurpose stuff and think out of the box. Wondering what your thoughts are on micro relays? Now al you can laugh but plz don't hold it against me as I have a v6 ecotec in my 4 runnner (It is a weapon off road). when I bought it the whole conversation was dodgy so I replaced the engine,clutch and a realigned it all .At first I just rewired it with normal spade connectors to normal relays but after 12 months of abuse out bush it started having relay issues. I did inox my engine bay and tried to keep everything important clean as possible and maintained but found them relays were just letting water in no matter what I did. I stripped it down again and soldered In some micro relay holders off a ford rangers loom and has not given me any trouble since. They look more streamlined and seem fully sealed. I never really used them before So wondering if you guys have used them and if so pros and cons? I have a light on my roof not for the wank factor but found when you are out having fun in the mud and you go through a deep water crossing once your lights are under water it gets dark very quickly.