Ditto , as a owner of three generations of Tacoma's, and mechanic and fabricator. I second your rating of this video as kickass , and well thought out and presented in an educational way.👍🏻
@15:38. Another way of doing this for those that don't have a laser (and in some ways maybe better than a laser if you're not doing this on a level shop floor). Take two strings and attach them to form an X from matching points on the flattened section of the frame (from right behind the arch on the left side to where the bumper mounts on the right side, and vice versa). Make sure both strings are tight with the same amount of tension. When all 4 points are flat ('coplanar') the strings will touch in the middle. Really strong but light fishing string is perfect because it has a thin, crisp edge and has a higher straight to weight ration than paracord or cotton string. Piano wire is also perfect and you can use the sound made by plucking to sanity check if both are equally tight. If you wanna get fancy you can use a guitar tuner to actually measure it lol. This is an old school method for straightening machine frames and boxes. I've used this with great success leveling out my large format CNC router before attaching the bed. It works surprisingly well.
That sounds like a neat idea! It can be tricky to find a flat area on an old frame. Especially with their stamped irregularities. Of course, the ultimate way to check for frame straightness and squarness is by referring to an OEM frame specifications sheet. They have a plethora data to help get things back to spec.
@@PostRt I'm literally in the stripped down and sandblasting phase of my truck right now. Do you know where I can get this spec sheet? Would you be interested in exchanging email or other contact info? I've been poring over your videos for weeks. They are amazing and have been so helpful.
If you know someone with access to factory Toyota Service Data, they should be able to get that information. The next best place would be to contact a local body shop. They will have that information available as they use it to bring vehicles back to spec after a collision. Lastly, they are hard to come by but, I was able to find some frame specification sheets on various Tacoma forums.
You also could have cut a block of wood to Wedge from the axle tube to the bottom of the frame at the point where you want to bend it. It would have taken the flex of the leaf springs out of the equation. Maybe have bent it a hair past perfect to allow for the steel to spring back. I think you did a great rebuild on the frame, definitely better engineered than Toyota had in mind.
Yeah, that could have helped as well. I'm glad that I was able to correct it before the plates went in because this frame is super solid now. This truck is going to handle completely different now and instill some confidence back to its abilities.
Nice fab and welding skills. This is why a shop will charge you 2500.00 or more to repair as you did. Got a 99 with 223k on it as well. Bodies pretty mint as its be hot oil coated 3 times over. Can't say the frame looks as nice. Was a Southern truck and 13 years in the Northeast has taken its toll. In the process of trying to locate a frame as I don't have the welding skills to attack it. How'd you like to do another one !!!!!
That’s done right. All these people welding patches and leaving the rotted metal underneath. The frame on My 2004 went up front where the sway bar mounts. 4cyl, the v6’s went near the cats usually
Exactly! I wouldn't feel safe just welding patches over the unknown frame rust. Now I am confident that this truck will handle whatever I throw at it and last a lot longer.
my only concern is the added plates on the inside that are plug welded create a laminated space between them. This is a classic setup for moisture retention, water loves to capillary wick between close surfaces. However, this truck will likely be treated VERY differently than a neglected daily driver so much more likely to receive a desalting wash after exposure and to get regular surface shield treatments that will wick into and protect these same spaces.
@@PostRt I live in PA. Rust sucks. I would suggest coating the entire truck with fluid film. Inside the doors etc. Look forward to any follow work on the truck. Thank you for responding g.
This is exactly the the I want to do my 95 S-10 Chevy 4x4 like the way you made your inside plates and drilled holes great idea and have to ask what size holes did you drill in your plates
Ya no need for holes on frames It’s a money making grab by manufacturers If frames are closed They’d never rust The guys I knew did 2x4 rails straight frame closed no holes With eliminated body lifts Welded spring chackles To the frame Front and rear axles And you could put 35 and 38 on simple Guys were geniuses back in the day Had a great business called the toy box They made Fiberglass boxes as well Sadly I heard 1 partner passed And the other shut it down Anyway enjoyed video Great work
@@user-kk4ze4uj3y manufactures aren't trying to sabotage their products by making them rust out so they can sell you more frames. Making a bad product bad enough that it consistently needs repair and replacement just gives you a bad reputation. Look how much Toyota had to spend on their frame recall for the 1st gen. It was hundreds of millions. We need to kill this idea that every time a company makes a.mistake or a product fails that it's just to make more money. It happens occasionally, but usually it's to SAVE COST in the initial production, not some devious scheme to *maybe* sell you another product or repair later on.
Another great video! My right side is also about an inch higher and I'm going to get a 'factory Toyota frame alignment tool' and do the same thing! What kind of laser alignment tool are you using? That looks super handy to have.
I purchased a Truck that appears to have had the frame boxed and have a question out of curiosity more than anything. And please do not take my question(s) wrong, as I do not possess the obvious skillset you do and am in no way knocking your skilset. Having said that, besides someone possibly wanting to box for strength or repair reasons, wouldnt doing this present a scenario where water is introduced and then trapped into a box frame? As stated before, my truck frame is boxed, so it is just a question I posed to myself after noticing and now you. Seems to me, planned obsolesence is at play with these manufactures or else they would just use solid rails from the start.
There are drain holes that allow water to exit the frame. Also, many frames have additional holes that can allow water and debris inside or promote drainage. If you have a C-channel frame and a boxed frame of the same thickness, comparatively, the boxed shape will be stronger. Manufacturers engineer their frames with many things considered. Some see the open channel frame as a way to better integrate crossmembers and other components. They also allow some flex so the vehicle is less harsh on the road. Hope this gives you some insight.
That frame straightening tool was just a piece of 4x4 wood, right? I have to do the exact same thing. My passenger side sits about an inch higher than my driver side. I should get all my grinding done tomorrow, so want to get the frame rails aligned as well.
It was pretty close to that and was a solid oak beam. I'd recommend disconnecting the rear spring hangers to isolate the weight from pulling down on the frame rails. I think that will help you out. I don't remember the exact measurements, but if you lay a straight edge down your truck bed supports, you can also use those mounting hole locations as a reference point to help align the frame.
@@PostRt ok. Thanks. I got all my grinding done today and got my backing plate welded in along with my filler plate. Tomorrow I’m going to work on welding in the lower frame rail reinforcement.
That is basically it. Two pieces of angle iron were laid down onto a base plate and welded together. Make sure they are cleaned up and squared first. I used a piece of square tubing clamped down to hold the jig together. For the top, another piece of angle iron with a strip of steel spine welded on the back. Then I found a piece of steel tube to slide over the ram. I'd recommend adding gussets to the top to prevent bowing, and if you really wanted to go all out, add a set of spring-loaded guide rails on the ends of the die for more precise alignment.
Why are you trimming the wire? Seems like after every weld. Thinking about learning how to weld . Own an 03 DCSB and I know it will be a good skill to have.
Good eye! After a weld is completed, the wire is still glowing hot and the shielding gas has stopped flowing through the nozzle. This allows oxygen to contact the wire and contaminate it. The wire will be burned gray and balled up. I trim off that end to help keep contamination entering the next new weld puddle. Even though I did a lot of cleaning to this frame, there is still unwanted junk hiding in the old steel. Basically my attempt to keep a clean and strong weld. Also, MIG welding wires have various amounts of deoxidizers in their alloy to help clean the metal as you weld. In TIG welding there is a setting for post-flow which helps shield the electrode and wire from this contamination. I hope this helps!
Great video series, but why is there no attention to the front half of the frame? I have a 2004 that I just bought and it needs work. I plan ok doing what you did except I don’t know how to weld, will have to take to a shop.
Woah, woah, haha. One step at a time. I haven't got there yet. However, the front of my frame is not as bad as the rear half though. Good on you to let a shop handle the fab work if you are not confident in the skill set. I will continue to update my progress so stayed tuned. Save the Tacomas!!!
Are you worried about lapping metals over each other trapping moisture between them? Those areas are usually the fist places to start rust! I will say I like how you boxed the channel in and took the time to grind them flush and smooth. It looks great...
Have you seen my truck frame? I am always worried about rust! 😄 All of the metal parts will be sealed when it gets top coated. Furthermore, I will be adding a layer of cavity wax on top. Everything is going to be A-okay when it is finished.
I am not sure if its a good idea to block the rear ends. The air has to enter the "pipe" in front and easy to get out at the end. Then it is able to dry out all water and wapour acumulated
I have never seen a generous air intake near the front of frames. The factory frames' original boxed section was capped as well. Most frames have extra holes built into them to allow for assembly jigs, factory transport, various upfitting, and cross-platform applications. This frame will have extra drain holes added and will be properly coated to protect it when it is finished.
Thank you so much for your videos, I realy appreciate your approach, and it helps me to try to find a way to fix my own navara. It also has some bad spots on the chassis. On one place there seems to be some sort of tube welded inside the chassis for reinformecement that got totaly rotten, but I am not sure what it was. of you could have a quick look at it, i would realy appreciate it, i made a video for you about it: czcams.com/video/NUcFzIK86eA/video.html Keep up the good work, all the best
You're welcome. I'm glad you were able to find it helpful towards your own project. There very well could be other tubes and plates added inside if the frame to aid in rigidity or to brace where other components are bolted on, like near a crossmember.
@@PostRt good repair to the inside chassis rails but not the outward facing side guess it doesn't need it , what paint did you use to protect it, good job there though bud👍
@Lee Revell Okay I see what you mean now. The inner plates that attached to the existing framework have essentially reinforced the "outside" portion. I treated the frame with a phosphoric acid, which leaves thin rust preventative layer on the steel. I'm not finished with the repairs just yet so I haven't top coated anything. I will do that once the cutting and welding is finished as it would ruin it.
We all learn in different ways and at different rates. If this video was way over your head, there is likely another video out there that you will better understand.
How did you get that insert to cover the hole you cut on the outside of the frame by the shock mount to fit so perfectly. I’m facing that exact same challenge, only on my truck the passenger side is much worse and the section I had to cut was bigger. I’m going to add the inner backing plate, but my cutting on the outside frame rail is a bit cobbled and makes it hard to create a template.
Fantastic work! I said this on one of your other videos. This is the best frame repair video on CZcams!
Thanks Martin!
I really appreciate the positive feedback and will keep moving forward on this truck project.
Ditto , as a owner of three generations of Tacoma's, and mechanic and fabricator. I second your rating of this video as kickass , and well thought out and presented in an educational way.👍🏻
@15:38. Another way of doing this for those that don't have a laser (and in some ways maybe better than a laser if you're not doing this on a level shop floor). Take two strings and attach them to form an X from matching points on the flattened section of the frame (from right behind the arch on the left side to where the bumper mounts on the right side, and vice versa). Make sure both strings are tight with the same amount of tension. When all 4 points are flat ('coplanar') the strings will touch in the middle. Really strong but light fishing string is perfect because it has a thin, crisp edge and has a higher straight to weight ration than paracord or cotton string. Piano wire is also perfect and you can use the sound made by plucking to sanity check if both are equally tight. If you wanna get fancy you can use a guitar tuner to actually measure it lol. This is an old school method for straightening machine frames and boxes. I've used this with great success leveling out my large format CNC router before attaching the bed. It works surprisingly well.
That sounds like a neat idea! It can be tricky to find a flat area on an old frame. Especially with their stamped irregularities.
Of course, the ultimate way to check for frame straightness and squarness is by referring to an OEM frame specifications sheet. They have a plethora data to help get things back to spec.
@@PostRt I'm literally in the stripped down and sandblasting phase of my truck right now. Do you know where I can get this spec sheet? Would you be interested in exchanging email or other contact info? I've been poring over your videos for weeks. They are amazing and have been so helpful.
If you know someone with access to factory Toyota Service Data, they should be able to get that information. The next best place would be to contact a local body shop. They will have that information available as they use it to bring vehicles back to spec after a collision. Lastly, they are hard to come by but, I was able to find some frame specification sheets on various Tacoma forums.
Great work. Exceeding the manufacturers specs.
I imagine a satisfying project and something you will appreciate for many years
It should last a long time and I feel a whole lot more confident when the truck is loaded down now.
I've watched dozens of guys fix these frames and hands down you do the best job out of any of them... Sending people your way.
Thank you so much!
I really appreciate that and hope it helps more people out.
As a joiner/ carpenter I admire your efforts. Well done, man!
Thanks so much!
I really appreciate that.
You also could have cut a block of wood to Wedge from the axle tube to the bottom of the frame at the point where you want to bend it. It would have taken the flex of the leaf springs out of the equation. Maybe have bent it a hair past perfect to allow for the steel to spring back. I think you did a great rebuild on the frame, definitely better engineered than Toyota had in mind.
Yeah, that could have helped as well. I'm glad that I was able to correct it before the plates went in because this frame is super solid now. This truck is going to handle completely different now and instill some confidence back to its abilities.
Awesome job
@@michaelpatton8427 Thank you! I think it turned out pretty well.
Absolutely beautiful
I really appreciate that. It was a lot of work but worth the end result. The coated frame looks awesome now.
Nice fab and welding skills. This is why a shop will charge you 2500.00 or more to repair as you did. Got a 99 with 223k on it as well. Bodies pretty mint as its be hot oil coated 3 times over. Can't say the frame looks as nice. Was a Southern truck and 13 years in the Northeast has taken its toll. In the process of trying to locate a frame as I don't have the welding skills to attack it.
How'd you like to do another one !!!!!
Thanks Andy!
If I ever buy another used truck, it will be a clean one from down south. I swear these frames are salt sponges.
the subscribe template got me.
Haha, I try to bring some subtle humor into these videos.
That’s done right. All these people welding patches and leaving the rotted metal underneath. The frame on My 2004 went up front where the sway bar mounts. 4cyl, the v6’s went near the cats usually
Exactly! I wouldn't feel safe just welding patches over the unknown frame rust. Now I am confident that this truck will handle whatever I throw at it and last a lot longer.
my only concern is the added plates on the inside that are plug welded create a laminated space between them. This is a classic setup for moisture retention, water loves to capillary wick between close surfaces. However, this truck will likely be treated VERY differently than a neglected daily driver so much more likely to receive a desalting wash after exposure and to get regular surface shield treatments that will wick into and protect these same spaces.
Great progress 👍
Thank you!
Very neat and professional.
Thank you! I take pride in my work.
The goal is to do it once and do it right.
Congrats, you weld like a Pro.
Thank you!
Amazing work
Thank you! It was a lot of work but worth the end result.
@@PostRt I live in PA. Rust sucks. I would suggest coating the entire truck with fluid film. Inside the doors etc. Look forward to any follow work on the truck. Thank you for responding g.
@smplyizzy I will be adding coatings after the metal work is done. I like the idea of an extra layer to keep rust away.
This is exactly the the I want to do my 95 S-10 Chevy 4x4 like the way you made your inside plates and drilled holes great idea and have to ask what size holes did you drill in your plates
Thank you! The holes were around 3/8" and helped to provide attachment to the existing frame.
Nice job
I new guys 30 years ago doing strait frames on hilux Toyota trucks
No reason to have holes in frames
It is much cleaner for sure, and I still have drain holes down low to let water out.
Ya no need for holes on frames
It’s a money making grab by manufacturers
If frames are closed
They’d never rust
The guys I knew did 2x4 rails straight frame closed no holes
With eliminated body lifts
Welded spring chackles
To the frame
Front and rear axles
And you could put 35 and 38 on simple
Guys were geniuses back in the day
Had a great business called the toy box
They made Fiberglass boxes as well
Sadly I heard 1 partner passed
And the other shut it down
Anyway enjoyed video
Great work
@@user-kk4ze4uj3y manufactures aren't trying to sabotage their products by making them rust out so they can sell you more frames. Making a bad product bad enough that it consistently needs repair and replacement just gives you a bad reputation. Look how much Toyota had to spend on their frame recall for the 1st gen. It was hundreds of millions. We need to kill this idea that every time a company makes a.mistake or a product fails that it's just to make more money. It happens occasionally, but usually it's to SAVE COST in the initial production, not some devious scheme to *maybe* sell you another product or repair later on.
Looks incredible, nice work. Did you drill drain holes in the bottom of the frame for any moisture that does find its way inside?
I will be adding drain holes last, after I am done making repairs and before I do the rust prevention coatings.
Another great video! My right side is also about an inch higher and I'm going to get a 'factory Toyota frame alignment tool' and do the same thing! What kind of laser alignment tool are you using? That looks super handy to have.
I think it is made by Johnson. I purchased it from a local home supply store for under $100.
I purchased a Truck that appears to have had the frame boxed and have a question out of curiosity more than anything. And please do not take my question(s) wrong, as I do not possess the obvious skillset you do and am in no way knocking your skilset. Having said that, besides someone possibly wanting to box for strength or repair reasons, wouldnt doing this present a scenario where water is introduced and then trapped into a box frame? As stated before, my truck frame is boxed, so it is just a question I posed to myself after noticing and now you. Seems to me, planned obsolesence is at play with these manufactures or else they would just use solid rails from the start.
There are drain holes that allow water to exit the frame. Also, many frames have additional holes that can allow water and debris inside or promote drainage. If you have a C-channel frame and a boxed frame of the same thickness, comparatively, the boxed shape will be stronger. Manufacturers engineer their frames with many things considered. Some see the open channel frame as a way to better integrate crossmembers and other components. They also allow some flex so the vehicle is less harsh on the road. Hope this gives you some insight.
This is awesome I wish i had that skill
Thank you. The truck has come a long way.
That frame straightening tool was just a piece of 4x4 wood, right? I have to do the exact same thing. My passenger side sits about an inch higher than my driver side. I should get all my grinding done tomorrow, so want to get the frame rails aligned as well.
It was pretty close to that and was a solid oak beam.
I'd recommend disconnecting the rear spring hangers to isolate the weight from pulling down on the frame rails. I think that will help you out.
I don't remember the exact measurements, but if you lay a straight edge down your truck bed supports, you can also use those mounting hole locations as a reference point to help align the frame.
@@PostRt ok. Thanks. I got all my grinding done today and got my backing plate welded in along with my filler plate. Tomorrow I’m going to work on welding in the lower frame rail reinforcement.
Do you recall the size of the captive bolt you added for the rear bumper? I also had to torch/grind mine away.
I believe they were M10x1.5
OK thanks!@@PostRt
strong repair.
Thank you, it should last a good while once finished up.
Nice work. How did you get the laser to project on to both frame rails?
Offsetting it allows it to project down both rails.
@@PostRt interesting, I can't quite picture what you mean.
Once you turn one on and start playing around with one, you will understand what I mean.
offset from the back corner, diagonal. Not straight on from the side. @29:30 is literally the point of view from where the laser should be positioned.
How did you make that bending die for your hydraulic press?. Do you have a video on that? Is it just 1/8” plate and 1/8” angle iron?
That is basically it. Two pieces of angle iron were laid down onto a base plate and welded together. Make sure they are cleaned up and squared first. I used a piece of square tubing clamped down to hold the jig together.
For the top, another piece of angle iron with a strip of steel spine welded on the back. Then I found a piece of steel tube to slide over the ram.
I'd recommend adding gussets to the top to prevent bowing, and if you really wanted to go all out, add a set of spring-loaded guide rails on the ends of the die for more precise alignment.
@@PostRt thanks! Your videos have been great!
Why are you trimming the wire? Seems like after every weld.
Thinking about learning how to weld . Own an 03 DCSB and I know it will be a good skill to have.
Good eye!
After a weld is completed, the wire is still glowing hot and the shielding gas has stopped flowing through the nozzle. This allows oxygen to contact the wire and contaminate it. The wire will be burned gray and balled up. I trim off that end to help keep contamination entering the next new weld puddle. Even though I did a lot of cleaning to this frame, there is still unwanted junk hiding in the old steel. Basically my attempt to keep a clean and strong weld. Also, MIG welding wires have various amounts of deoxidizers in their alloy to help clean the metal as you weld. In TIG welding there is a setting for post-flow which helps shield the electrode and wire from this contamination.
I hope this helps!
Great video series, but why is there no attention to the front half of the frame? I have a 2004 that I just bought and it needs work. I plan ok doing what you did except I don’t know how to weld, will have to take to a shop.
Woah, woah, haha. One step at a time. I haven't got there yet. However, the front of my frame is not as bad as the rear half though. Good on you to let a shop handle the fab work if you are not confident in the skill set. I will continue to update my progress so stayed tuned.
Save the Tacomas!!!
@@PostRt I see, thanks man, yeah hoping I can save it. Look forward to your vids.
Are you worried about lapping metals over each other trapping moisture between them? Those areas are usually the fist places to start rust! I will say I like how you boxed the channel in and took the time to grind them flush and smooth. It looks great...
Have you seen my truck frame?
I am always worried about rust! 😄
All of the metal parts will be sealed when it gets top coated. Furthermore, I will be adding a layer of cavity wax on top. Everything is going to be A-okay when it is finished.
I am not sure if its a good idea to block the rear ends. The air has to enter the "pipe" in front and easy to get out at the end. Then it is able to dry out all water and wapour acumulated
I have never seen a generous air intake near the front of frames. The factory frames' original boxed section was capped as well. Most frames have extra holes built into them to allow for assembly jigs, factory transport, various upfitting, and cross-platform applications. This frame will have extra drain holes added and will be properly coated to protect it when it is finished.
I’m Juan , I live in Utah , can u help me to fix the frame of my Tacoma ? Thanks
Woah, Utah, that is a long ways away for me. Unfortunately, I cannot be of any assistance, but I do hope these videos help you in some way.
Saludo de PR me puede decir que crueso es la toma que se usa para arcla chasi de Tacoma 2006 Telo voy a cradecel
Tola
The 2006 chassis is different, but the process I used would be similar.
Hope this helps.
Thank you so much for your videos, I realy appreciate your approach, and it helps me to try to find a way to fix my own navara. It also has some bad spots on the chassis. On one place there seems to be some sort of tube welded inside the chassis for reinformecement that got totaly rotten, but I am not sure what it was. of you could have a quick look at it, i would realy appreciate it, i made a video for you about it: czcams.com/video/NUcFzIK86eA/video.html
Keep up the good work, all the best
You're welcome. I'm glad you were able to find it helpful towards your own project. There very well could be other tubes and plates added inside if the frame to aid in rigidity or to brace where other components are bolted on, like near a crossmember.
@@PostRt thanks, i bought a endocope ans can confirm that there many (rotten...) reinforcements indeed inside my frame
If one side is more intact, you may be able to copy the original design or something close to what is supposed to be in there.
Pitty you didn't show the outside of the frame or how to go about that side 🤦
Wait...what?
@@PostRt good repair to the inside chassis rails but not the outward facing side guess it doesn't need it , what paint did you use to protect it, good job there though bud👍
@Lee Revell Okay I see what you mean now. The inner plates that attached to the existing framework have essentially reinforced the "outside" portion. I treated the frame with a phosphoric acid, which leaves thin rust preventative layer on the steel. I'm not finished with the repairs just yet so I haven't top coated anything. I will do that once the cutting and welding is finished as it would ruin it.
very, very confusing video!!
We all learn in different ways and at different rates. If this video was way over your head, there is likely another video out there that you will better understand.
How did you get that insert to cover the hole you cut on the outside of the frame by the shock mount to fit so perfectly. I’m facing that exact same challenge, only on my truck the passenger side is much worse and the section I had to cut was bigger. I’m going to add the inner backing plate, but my cutting on the outside frame rail is a bit cobbled and makes it hard to create a template.
Sorry. I didn’t mean to reply to another User’s comment. I’m new to this CZcams stuff. is it possible to post a picture of what I’m trying to do?
You’re not suppose to straighten a fame when the car is resting on the suspension.
Cool, glad I didn't do that.