I'm going to address something I'm seeing time and time again: Removing the intake silencer from the intake tube WILL NOT cause your MAF/MAP sensor to change settings or throw codes. As I've explained in a couple of comments, because the engine can breathe a bit better, being more balanced on the intake end versus the stock exhaust size, what this means is that the movement of air is more efficient. This leads to a bit more fuel being called for, but that is offset by the efficiency increase of the engine. The reason why is that the outer diameter of the tube remains the same, but the volume of air over time is significantly shortened. Given this, the MAP/MAF sensor will tell the computer to compensate with additional fuel. If this does not happen, then the engine would run lean. But if nothing was wrong before, and you remove the intake silencer, everything will still work, and the computer will adjust to new operating conditions. Along these lines, a CAI will not do anything at all to increase power. Why? Because you're actually not cooling the temperature of the intake air down, if you're pulling intake air from the engine bay. So you gain nothing. Why do you think the stock air system pulls air from a hole in the radiator support? Because it is cooler from that location. And what's the reason why you want colder air, hence the name "Cold Air Intake"? Because cold air = denser air, which means you can pack more fuel into a given volume of air, thereby increasing power. However, if you want to gain more power, and do it right, change out your fuel pressure regulator for one from a 2001 2.5, your injectors to 19 lb/hour Mustang injectors (up 5 lbs from the 2.3's 14 lb injectors), and drill out your MAF to 29/64". What this does is increase both air and fuel flow into the combustion chamber, for an increase of about 30 HP or so, depending on how worn your motor is. On the other side, I do not recommend messing with the ignition coils and firing order. I did correctly the alleged "dual spark plug mod, and it does not work. First, your primary coil pack is in the front -- which means that your primary firing order will be messed up if you do it. The rear coil pack is the one everybody says to mess with, but I had no such luck, as after doing the plug wire mod, my truck ran like crap. I even triple-checked what I did, and it still did not work. However, perhaps one of the easiest mods to do is to take up the slack in your accelerator cable, in order to improve throttle responsiveness. To do this, pull your gas pedal towards your seat (pull up). Look at the top of your pedal: If you can see extra cable, use some zip ties to improve throttle response.
Some of these restrictive emissions requirements are laughable.Guess what happends when your vehicle is gutless? You give it MORE gas and produce MORE emissions
Just like them low flow water saving toilets that you have to flush five extra times to get everything flushed. Or the spill proof of gas cans that require both hands to use and have a jillion moving parts and make you spill 10 times more gas than you ever would have spilled using a standard gas can nozzle. Or putting environmental restrictions on American manufacturing and industry in the name of fighting pollution and climate change, and thereby driving all the manufacturing and industry jobs to China where they give two shits about the environment and pollute 10 times as much as if those industries would’ve stayed here under the previous US EPA guidelines. Liberals: “we’re helping 🤤”.
wow i have same truck thanks for this. about to take that out right away. that i can tell totally restricting my air flow now i know why my truck is slugish. thanks a lot .
I just bought a used 96 Mazda B 2300 which is basically a 96 Ford Ranger 2.3. After watching this video I went to see if i could do it to my truck and it looks as if the flow constrictor had already been removed. Acceleration is acceptable. My temp guage never has indicated that it was overheating. I switched the firing order of the front coil pack as mentioned by the comment of Russell Houghton and my engine runs smoother with my power. Thank You .
If you have a 1998-2000 Ranger with the 2.5 or 3.0, the restrictor will be in your airbox. In order to take it out, you have to remove the airbox, and take a flathead screwdriver and pop it out. Also, installing a less restrictive air filter will help out with airflow.
@@dyland2008 I know it's late but I took it out on my 1994 Ford Ranger 2 years ago. I've been driving it 2 years and about 25K miles and there has been no ill effects at all. I installed a K&N panel air filter too and I have noticed quite a bit more power and acceleration. Also the top speed on the highway in this little truck used to top out around 80~84 mph, I've had it up to 97 on a flat road once and bured the speedo past the end once. Couldn't do that before with the factory baffle in and a paper air filter.
Your engine might be running a bit lean like that however they can probably handle it. As the 98 era version of the engine is more economical this one can handle more air less fuel it sounds like. 98 interference and weaker rods.
In dropping the cat converter with 2 and a Quarter plpe and muffler from and 86 Ford F150 302 an elbow to put the pipe in front of the tire and take that bellow out at the hose for the intake fuel milage went from 24 to 28 miles per gallon and Thx for the Video as well and Hope this helps others
You can gain even more if you eliminate the paper filter box and install a conical cold air intake. My 99 4 cylinder Ranger runs like it has a 302 BOSS under the hood. That bolt pattern is called Torx
Can't say I would believe that. I shortened the throttle cable on my 95 and have all the power I want. Cables stretch over time and no longer goes full throttle. At least in my case. My truck only has 95000 miles, I don't want to ruin it with some of these ideas.
In a 3.0 there is a metal throttle limiter on the assembly bc it is mechanical wire. If it does max out your cable it's fine. most YT mods for that is BS.
u also can gain power by changin the factory firing 0rder around on the 2.3 but it has to be the dual coil pack 8 spark plug motors it works on the 2.3 mustangs to
So definitely correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to be an intake silencer. I took mine out of a 94 Ranger I4 2.3l and I felt an instant boost in low end power. So much so, it's stupid. Runs better, a tad louder, and it's FREE. I don't know if this piece serves any other purpose at all other than to reduce the sound from the intake, but dear God...feels like I got an extra 10hp added to the top by taking an over-engineered part right out of the intake. Will save this piece in my garage just in case, but don't see ever needing it again.
+David Johnson it's actually to slow down airflow and keep lower rpm torque while towing, without it, it quickly runs out of air (volume) under load and looses torque, it's the oposite of adding a huge muffler and loosing back pressure
@Matt Davids Oh don't get me wrong boss, I agree that they are deserving of the reverence they usually get, but there are times when they tend to overthink a thing. =) And thanks for the additional info on the units purpose. =) First On Race Day! Check out my little Ranger I just got about two months ago.
I have a 2003 Ford ranger 3.0 and does not have a bellow in it. But i also modified the air box on mine so it would would get more air . I drilled some holes on the side of the box bellow the air filter level towards the engine side, it made a big difference.
@@lahti2x haha. He's probably right, that cheap piece of plastic wasn't engineered to actually create any sort of turbine effect, restricted air flow is bad for horsepower. I almost wonder if it was something of a stock limp mode to make the engine last longer..
I haven't checked if my 4 liter has this, but I'll definitely do this if it does have it..However, if you're opening the airways a bit, wouldn't you be consuming more fuel, based on what the MAF is reading?
Bob Saget no it wouldn't change that the same amount of air still enters the engine with the restriction or not and if it did the maf sensor would tell the pcm accordingly
The same amount of air is pulled into the engine quicker -- which means that you will use a bit more fuel in the same amount of time. However, an engine that breathes better has better performance and efficiency, which means the negligible increase of fuel is offset by the fact the engine breathes better.
To the guy that made this I have a 90 ranger 2.3l 5speed identical to what you showed thanks.. I'm in the process of swapping it to a v8 I'm wanting a 302 rebuild but I been told a 351cleveland be better that the 351windsor
No sir there are 50 times more stuff for the 351w if your going to run high rpms you will have to do some mods on the 351c oiling to get oil to the back main bearing
2001, they replaced the 2.5 lima with a 2.3 duratec. VERY different engine and almost the same hp as the 6 cylinder. The Lima is a ford-designed non-interference engine with single-overhead-cam, 2 spark plugs per cylinder, 2 valves per cylinder, and a timing belt. The Duratec is a Mazda-designed dual-overhead-cam interference engine with 1 spark plug and 4 valves per cylinder, and a timing chain. This video is about a completely different engine than yours.
So I did this to my 1994 ranger 2.3 manual this is my daily beater (because I like smoking in it) with my experience I got the check engine light go off/on all day ( confused MAF sensor)but stopped coming on day 2 also put a K&N air filter the truck does run a lot better noticeable difference I was very hesitant at first but risked it don’t regret it at all its a night and day difference thought Id share
I need a bit of help. I have a 93 ford ranger. I have somehow gone through 8 quarts of oil in about 1200 miles. I have not seen evidence of smoking, or leaks anywhere. Yet I am going through oil too quick.
@@78djohnson Thank you I will see. This is actually my very first owned vehicle despite me having driven other people's vehicles for years. I am trying to figure everything out.
This is a great Find / Mod for sure. Although I agree with a comment below as a " Silencer ", but I think it's made in case People don't put in the Air Filter correctly and debris's doesn't enter into the combustion. You know some idiots would forgot to put the Filter back or even on backward after cleaning or repairing, etc.... This is to prevent Engine damages from my point of view.
The Lima engines (1983-mid 2001) were non-interference engines and had timing belts. The Duratec engines (mid 2001 to 2012) are interference engines with timing chains. The two lines of engines are VERY different.
i just removed mines on my 4cyl 2.3L pre-runner 97 ford ranger , mines was there to catch or collect sum kind of oil that might be mixing threw there as there are many hoses and it was a bit gunky in there i cleaned it,. however by removing i believe the air flow will be there as no mater what it is restricting i also modded the air filter my removing half the plastic covering with a grinder so it is mostly open like what a KanN air filter set up would look like , so i got my air filter open and now i got this peace of crap plastic thing out of there which will increase airflow now by 50 percent,, i got to drive to the store soon i cant weight to see the difference im shore she will run way better now thanks ;)
i have not test driven yet however for people saying this or that in comments first consider the motor is running restricted with the plastic thing in there meaning it is not getting enough air and running like crap that is the performance , so if the performance increases another 5 or 10 percent power gas mileage ect, then it is WIN as far as im concerned
test drove and ditching the snorkel was a good move it was restrictive my set up also includes i opened the front of the plastic air filter cover ,, so im not sucking threw a straw in the front the air filter is now open / before it was covered / all and all i think the gains are there,, and there lengthy once the engine starts breathing correctly its night and day thanks ;) basically you can modify the stock air set up with out having to order a new high performance cold air intake prices on that about 70 to 200 ,, you can just make the stock one run better then perfect its possible cheers ;)
Yes, more air will give you a little more power, but only changing air intake will make your engine run lean, which is why you have 'better' fuel economy. But you'll wreck your engine by running it like that for long periods
Actually, you don't run your truck lean, because the more air you pull in, your truck compensates with fuel flow to keep the air/fuel ratio the same. #ScienceForTheWin
There is some dumb people out there. They no nothing about working on cars. Then take advice from people that dont know how to work on cars. THEN SWEAR IT WORKS.
Probably to slow the airflow, produce less turbulence and provide for better stacking of air molecules, as well as to probably appease the EPA. The intake runner on my 93 3.0 for instance has a section with two cones in it, with the large end of the cone tapering up with the direction of airflow its essentially a venturi but since it's backwards it acts as a diffuser duct. Intake geometry has a lot of interesting concepts behind their designs that just seems to be baffling in terms of being beneficial.
fordrangeraddictforlife gotta love some good ole fashion cussing hell I bet the fellas at Ford really love ya on this shit lol hopefully they blowing smoke up asses with it makes your shit run lean if it does then show proof I say it's probably a damn restrictor part for BS stuff. I'm a life long faithful Ford man but good God the damn shit today they put in these models have defective and garbage shit on it and ford was the embodiment of the best performance available why restrict it in this little part if you got something that is working for you and can work for others go for it cause it damn sure ain't gonna get no love from the manufacturing company that's for damn sure good video man really cool
I LOVE IT! Simple solutions can almost ALWAYS be found, if you do your research! I want to hear more, and am subscribing to your channel because of this vid. You would probably LOVE a new technology that improves power and mileage without adding any parts, called "Wave-Form Technology" by MileagePlus+. Here's a playlist on some of the Ford products that have received this tech and the customer comments: czcams.com/play/PL6L-BkUAEA1Zkyh3fOZQBFvgUvU-vDTYW.html
Do NOT do this! Your engine will run way way to hot and with the constant over heating your head will crack or you'll wear your engine down. This is not a simple solution. It is if you're trying to destroy your block haha
ya it could be related to torque but restricting airflow to the engine would dercrease that wouldn't you think? or the throaty sound you hear ford prob did not want customers hearing and coming for a (strange sound under the hood)
I'd just drop a 427 hemi in that thing if you really want some ponies, link to a B&M Hydro with some Indy Blue Streaks and now your cooking with gas my brother.
I can't buy into a guy that doesn't know the name of simple hardware. Things are put there for a reason, and wouldn't be especially if it reduced MPG for no good reason. CAFE standards were met with small engines
@land. Catalytic converters are put on for a reason as well... but people delete them all the time though...don't they? The "Fordrangeraddictforlife" made a great observation about the mass AIR FLOW sensor. The reason ford installed the baffle is because Ford's motto used to be "Better ideas" when many of them actually weren't! The restriction is there to attenuate noise, and prevent foreign objects from getting into your throttle body....That's it! If it were that important, then cold air intakes would have them incorporated in their kits, and or have a warning of sorts. =)
It is just a noise baffle. The Ranger predates the current ridiculous CAFE standards. Delete the noise baffle and the catalytic converter and the power and fuel economy will go way up. If the vehicle is running in top shape, it will even pass the emission test. The catalytic converter is mainly there if the vehicle is running poorly. Poor running cars produce a lot of unburnt exhuast. I hollowed out my catalytic converter years ago and deleted a bunch of air restrictions on my air intake years ago. I pass inspection every year for the last fourteen years. When deleting the catalytic converter. Just hollow it out and put a piece of exhaust pipe in it. Where I reside requires a visual confirmation of the catalytic converter. The inspector looks and sees the converter so it is okay. If your car is not running perfectly, do not delete the catalytic converter. It will make a lot of smoke and not pass inspection, as many of my unfortunate excoworkers have found out.
@@RollingRigTraction The newer 3 liter has more power than the old 4 liter . And the 5 speed automatic is stronger and all around better than the old 4 speed auto .
@@OlderthanIlookyoungerthanIfeel your response is moot and has zero to do with the 4 liter. Thanks for the info BTW although it's useless as I wouldn't run anything OBDII off road ever.
@@RollingRigTraction The newer ones have more power and better transmissions , the SOHC has 220 HP compared to the OHV's 160 . The 3 liter has almost the same as the OHV , and even the little 4 banger is close to the same . I agree that most new anything is built to fail . But I've driven every version of the Ranger going back to the early 70s . And the 98 through 2011 version is by far the best one they ever made . And modern fuel injection and OBD are fine with me . I like having more power and burning less fuel . Most of what's wrong with modern car's , is safety and driver aids . That's why a new Camaro weighs about 1000 pounds more than my gen 4 . My 2003 Ranger has 2 air bags and antilock breaks , and it only weighs about 3100 pounds . I'm going to class that as old tech , and nothing to be afraid of .
Have you thought about converting to Electric Fans? Clutch Fans pulls too much Horse Power. I made a new Video here about converting to Electric Fans to Save GAS, Horse Power, etc..... See my new Vid here: czcams.com/video/11ybJXNSla8/video.html
NO...... BAD, increasing size make it RUN LEAN, changing anything on the other side of the MAF sensor will make ecu confused and constantly be correcting, misfiring, bogging. it changes the MAF Table to different amounts of air throw-out the entire rpm range and load map, not linear BTW, your engine now wont be able to accuracy measure the CORRECT amount of air coming in to your engine and will now not be able to tune it based on the factory tube diameter, witch is already about 25% oversized for its PEAK RPM range increasing the size reduces port velocity and torque only for a tiny but of HP beyond the max RPM of this engine
@@suvado check the o2 fuel trims they will be all over the place, the ecu dosnt fully correct because it cant accurately measure airflow and will even bypass to a maf base map, and lower power in a safer tune, and usually throw a po171 on newer vehicles also
@DeVoN420zz Mines a 94, OBD1. Very Basic Fuel Injection! Removing the Silencer won't effect it enough. Restriction at the airbox, won't allow enough airflow to set a code. OBD2 is a different story. Mine gained a bit more power, no codes! Happy with the easy mod
Two comments. 1. Sorry to see that you have lost the end of your left index finger. 2. Did you think of sweeping the floor of your garage before making this video? A cleaner background may lend more confidence in what you are saying to the viewers of your post.
Actually, no, you're not. By the time the air gets to the throttle, it has already been metered by the MAP/MAF. I did this, and never once had a CEL come on related to it.
Are you really trying to tell people how to make a Ford break down 😂😂😂 good job. They already have enough problems you ford owners like to make more problems 😂😂😂
I'm going to address something I'm seeing time and time again: Removing the intake silencer from the intake tube WILL NOT cause your MAF/MAP sensor to change settings or throw codes.
As I've explained in a couple of comments, because the engine can breathe a bit better, being more balanced on the intake end versus the stock exhaust size, what this means is that the movement of air is more efficient. This leads to a bit more fuel being called for, but that is offset by the efficiency increase of the engine.
The reason why is that the outer diameter of the tube remains the same, but the volume of air over time is significantly shortened. Given this, the MAP/MAF sensor will tell the computer to compensate with additional fuel. If this does not happen, then the engine would run lean. But if nothing was wrong before, and you remove the intake silencer, everything will still work, and the computer will adjust to new operating conditions.
Along these lines, a CAI will not do anything at all to increase power. Why? Because you're actually not cooling the temperature of the intake air down, if you're pulling intake air from the engine bay. So you gain nothing. Why do you think the stock air system pulls air from a hole in the radiator support? Because it is cooler from that location. And what's the reason why you want colder air, hence the name "Cold Air Intake"? Because cold air = denser air, which means you can pack more fuel into a given volume of air, thereby increasing power.
However, if you want to gain more power, and do it right, change out your fuel pressure regulator for one from a 2001 2.5, your injectors to 19 lb/hour Mustang injectors (up 5 lbs from the 2.3's 14 lb injectors), and drill out your MAF to 29/64". What this does is increase both air and fuel flow into the combustion chamber, for an increase of about 30 HP or so, depending on how worn your motor is.
On the other side, I do not recommend messing with the ignition coils and firing order. I did correctly the alleged "dual spark plug mod, and it does not work. First, your primary coil pack is in the front -- which means that your primary firing order will be messed up if you do it. The rear coil pack is the one everybody says to mess with, but I had no such luck, as after doing the plug wire mod, my truck ran like crap. I even triple-checked what I did, and it still did not work.
However, perhaps one of the easiest mods to do is to take up the slack in your accelerator cable, in order to improve throttle responsiveness. To do this, pull your gas pedal towards your seat (pull up). Look at the top of your pedal: If you can see extra cable, use some zip ties to improve throttle response.
I have a 2006 2.3 and it doesnt even have the baffle lol, proves your point even further that they dont need it
So glad I found this info!
Thanks so much!!!
I removed the silencer and it definitely improved the power and fuel mileage on mine.
So Happy!
Some of these restrictive emissions requirements are laughable.Guess what happends when your vehicle is gutless? You give it MORE gas and produce MORE emissions
Just like them low flow water saving toilets that you have to flush five extra times to get everything flushed. Or the spill proof of gas cans that require both hands to use and have a jillion moving parts and make you spill 10 times more gas than you ever would have spilled using a standard gas can nozzle. Or putting environmental restrictions on American manufacturing and industry in the name of fighting pollution and climate change, and thereby driving all the manufacturing and industry jobs to China where they give two shits about the environment and pollute 10 times as much as if those industries would’ve stayed here under the previous US EPA guidelines.
Liberals: “we’re helping 🤤”.
wow i have same truck thanks for this. about to take that out right away. that i can tell totally restricting my air flow now i know why my truck is slugish. thanks a lot .
I just bought a used 96 Mazda B 2300 which is basically a 96 Ford Ranger 2.3. After watching this video
I went to see if i could do it to my truck and it looks as if the flow constrictor had already been removed. Acceleration is acceptable. My temp guage never has indicated that it was overheating. I switched the firing order of the front coil pack as mentioned by the comment of Russell Houghton and my engine runs smoother with my power. Thank You .
Buenas como se cambia el orden de ensendido bro
If you have a 1998-2000 Ranger with the 2.5 or 3.0, the restrictor will be in your airbox. In order to take it out, you have to remove the airbox, and take a flathead screwdriver and pop it out. Also, installing a less restrictive air filter will help out with airflow.
so it probably isnt in my 2001 then? should i check just in case?
That baffle is there to mellow (slow) airflow upon down shifting or being in the throttle and immediately letting off. It is an intake muffler.
Is it safe to take it out?
Makes sense
@@dyland2008 I know it's late but I took it out on my 1994 Ford Ranger 2 years ago. I've been driving it 2 years and about 25K miles and there has been no ill effects at all. I installed a K&N panel air filter too and I have noticed quite a bit more power and acceleration. Also the top speed on the highway in this little truck used to top out around 80~84 mph, I've had it up to 97 on a flat road once and bured the speedo past the end once. Couldn't do that before with the factory baffle in and a paper air filter.
Your engine might be running a bit lean like that however they can probably handle it. As the 98 era version of the engine is more economical this one can handle more air less fuel it sounds like. 98 interference and weaker rods.
Damn those NVH engineers!
How do you get resister out? You didn't show how to get it out, does it just pull out?
Thanks man nice detail good video...
In dropping the cat converter with 2 and a Quarter plpe and muffler from and 86 Ford F150 302 an elbow to put the pipe in front of the tire and take that bellow out at the hose for the intake fuel milage went from 24 to 28 miles per gallon and Thx for the Video as well and Hope this helps others
You can gain even more if you eliminate the paper filter box and install a conical cold air intake. My 99 4 cylinder Ranger runs like it has a 302 BOSS under the hood. That bolt pattern is called Torx
Can't say I would believe that. I shortened the throttle cable on my 95 and have all the power I want. Cables stretch over time and no longer goes full throttle. At least in my case. My truck only has 95000 miles, I don't want to ruin it with some of these ideas.
In a 3.0 there is a metal throttle limiter on the assembly bc it is mechanical wire. If it does max out your cable it's fine. most YT mods for that is BS.
Or you can by a small piece of intake tube..
u also can gain power by changin the factory firing 0rder around on the 2.3 but it has to be the dual coil pack 8 spark plug motors it works on the 2.3 mustangs to
Do tell, I have the twin coil 8 plug system and I want more power
Cómo se hace eso bro
So definitely correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to be an intake silencer. I took mine out of a 94 Ranger I4 2.3l and I felt an instant boost in low end power. So much so, it's stupid. Runs better, a tad louder, and it's FREE. I don't know if this piece serves any other purpose at all other than to reduce the sound from the intake, but dear God...feels like I got an extra 10hp added to the top by taking an over-engineered part right out of the intake. Will save this piece in my garage just in case, but don't see ever needing it again.
jktpunk182 a few that is all the point of it is and to reduce customer noise complaint
+David Johnson it's actually to slow down airflow and keep lower rpm torque while towing, without it, it quickly runs out of air (volume) under load and looses torque, it's the oposite of adding a huge muffler and loosing back pressure
@Matt Davids Because engineers do dumb shit ALL the time!
@Matt Davids Oh don't get me wrong boss, I agree that they are deserving of the reverence they usually get, but there are times when they tend to overthink a thing. =) And thanks for the additional info on the units purpose. =) First On Race Day!
Check out my little Ranger I just got about two months ago.
TrollingSince1991 question is, can doing this damage the engine in anyway?
Do not know for sure I can check into it for you
2006 Ford Explorer timing chain sensor
What about it?
Do all rangers have some kind of bellow or air restrictor in them ? I have a 2003 Ford ranger 3.0 V6, I'm going to be checking into this stuff.
I have a 2003 Ford ranger 3.0 and does not have a bellow in it. But i also modified the air box on mine so it would would get more air . I drilled some holes on the side of the box bellow the air filter level towards the engine side, it made a big difference.
Works on 4.0?
They are called " Torx" screws.
Have you put your truck on a dyno before and after your modification to see if you gained any horsepower
no but i would love to to se the difference with and without
Do you know anything about driveshafts
Thanks dude it worked on my ranger
jimmytorres111 well it’s been 10 months what’s your opinion on taking it off?
@@andythomas2550kinda curious myself
@@lahti2x haha. He's probably right, that cheap piece of plastic wasn't engineered to actually create any sort of turbine effect, restricted air flow is bad for horsepower. I almost wonder if it was something of a stock limp mode to make the engine last longer..
Does the later 2.3L DOHC Duratec engine have this restriction?
Look at your engine and find out
I would like to know if this has been affective for you since this video came out, any problems? I have an 89 4 liter and i’m not sure if it’ll work
I doubt the 4.0 has this, I don't think mine does.
Its' Effective dude, nothing has been affected...except 4 my wits.
I did install cold air intake got more power,more gas miles ,but at time to take smog check I had to back to stock.
What is the Name of the Store...??
Where You Got Your New --- Intake
Ha!
It's spelled Torx. The star shaped fasteners. Have to try this on my Ranger. Thanks.
ya thak you for the correction you will notice a change but not a huge 1. but most of you will see fuel consumption decrease
I haven't checked if my 4 liter has this, but I'll definitely do this if it does have it..However, if you're opening the airways a bit, wouldn't you be consuming more fuel, based on what the MAF is reading?
Bob Saget no it wouldn't change that the same amount of air still enters the engine with the restriction or not and if it did the maf sensor would tell the pcm accordingly
@@davidjohnson412 if the same amount of air is entering then removing the restrictor would have no effect.
The same amount of air is pulled into the engine quicker -- which means that you will use a bit more fuel in the same amount of time.
However, an engine that breathes better has better performance and efficiency, which means the negligible increase of fuel is offset by the fact the engine breathes better.
Looks like an Airsoft RPG
Dose v6 has that issues
To the guy that made this I have a 90 ranger 2.3l 5speed identical to what you showed thanks.. I'm in the process of swapping it to a v8 I'm wanting a 302 rebuild but I been told a 351cleveland be better that the 351windsor
No sir there are 50 times more stuff for the 351w if your going to run high rpms you will have to do some mods on the 351c oiling to get oil to the back main bearing
what year Ford Ranger do you have? i have 02 2.3 will i also get more horse power following your segment?
Yours should be a 2.5 not a 2.3 and this is not a good idea save your motor.
@@Kyle-jb3hr thank you for your honest answer
2001, they replaced the 2.5 lima with a 2.3 duratec. VERY different engine and almost the same hp as the 6 cylinder. The Lima is a ford-designed non-interference engine with single-overhead-cam, 2 spark plugs per cylinder, 2 valves per cylinder, and a timing belt. The Duratec is a Mazda-designed dual-overhead-cam interference engine with 1 spark plug and 4 valves per cylinder, and a timing chain.
This video is about a completely different engine than yours.
3.0V6
You can also change the firing order on the front coil pack for 5-10 extra HP.
Russell Houghton let me more about this, I can do vid on n that as well. Know of anyone wanting to buy
fordrangeraddictforlife switch 1 & 4 then 2& 3 on the front coil pack and both blugs will fire at the same time on the power stroke.
I want to know if this works!!!! I have a 96 ranger
I have a coil pack on the top left of the engine and the bottom right of the engine, Which coil pack are you referring to?
Andrew S the one for the drivers side plugs
Wouldn't that make it run leaner than what it wants to? It's behind the MAF which is designed to take in the proper amount of air.
Would putting in cold air intake work as well?
It would probably work better
Laughed way too much at that cough 3:36 lmao
lol... forwarded to 3:36 and had me a chuckle as well
lolol
@@bromeisterbryce Am I missing something? What's funny about it. Just sounds like a cough.
@@UsaRubber I don't really know how to explain how something is funny. If it's not funny to you then it's not funny.
This is a older video. We have a 96 Ranger. Your intake setup already look's odd and restrictive with the angles
Plenty of room in there now for a "turbo whistle"!
Activities got my hands on a turbo thunderbird
So I did this to my 1994 ranger 2.3 manual this is my daily beater (because I like smoking in it) with my experience I got the check engine light go off/on all day ( confused MAF sensor)but stopped coming on day 2 also put a K&N air filter the truck does run a lot better noticeable difference I was very hesitant at first but risked it don’t regret it at all its a night and day difference thought Id share
It sure wakes them thats for sure
What about the mass airflow system it may be in there, be careful what you throw away from 👍
I need a bit of help. I have a 93 ford ranger. I have somehow gone through 8 quarts of oil in about 1200 miles. I have not seen evidence of smoking, or leaks anywhere. Yet I am going through oil too quick.
Check your radiator to see if coolant is clean. Might be burning excessive blow by as well you won't too much as smoke
@@78djohnson Thank you I will see. This is actually my very first owned vehicle despite me having driven other people's vehicles for years. I am trying to figure everything out.
This is a great Find / Mod for sure. Although I agree with a comment below as a " Silencer ", but I think it's made in case People don't put in the Air Filter correctly and debris's doesn't enter into the combustion. You know some idiots would forgot to put the Filter back or even on backward after cleaning or repairing, etc.... This is to prevent Engine damages from my point of view.
Does a 1999 explorer have the same thing
No
Does a 2011 Ford Ranger have a Timing Chain?
It has a timing belt
The Lima engines (1983-mid 2001) were non-interference engines and had timing belts. The Duratec engines (mid 2001 to 2012) are interference engines with timing chains. The two lines of engines are VERY different.
4cyl 2011 has a chain. The duratecs all had chains since they had more power. 2001 4cyl has a belt.
How do u get that dam thing out
I took mine out probably 15 years ago
Will my 3.2litr have this in.
Is it a 2.3 or 2.5? Mine it says is a 2.5 1998 ranger
What year truck is this?
1994 ranger xlt
My 2011 Ranger doesn't have this restriction.
Does this trick have any relevance for a third-gen 4.0 (2011)?
Do you have a restricted torpedo piece in the intake?
i just removed mines on my 4cyl 2.3L pre-runner 97 ford ranger , mines was there to catch or collect sum kind of oil that might be mixing threw there as there are many hoses and it was a bit gunky in there i cleaned it,. however by removing i believe the air flow will be there as no mater what it is restricting i also modded the air filter my removing half the plastic covering with a grinder so it is mostly open like what a KanN air filter set up would look like , so i got my air filter open and now i got this peace of crap plastic thing out of there which will increase airflow now by 50 percent,, i got to drive to the store soon i cant weight to see the difference im shore she will run way better now thanks ;)
i have not test driven yet however for people saying this or that in comments first consider the motor is running restricted with the plastic thing in there meaning it is not getting enough air and running like crap that is the performance , so if the performance increases another 5 or 10 percent power gas mileage ect, then it is WIN as far as im concerned
test drove and ditching the snorkel was a good move it was restrictive my set up also includes i opened the front of the plastic air filter cover ,, so im not sucking threw a straw in the front the air filter is now open / before it was covered / all and all i think the gains are there,, and there lengthy once the engine starts breathing correctly its night and day thanks ;) basically you can modify the stock air set up with out having to order a new high performance cold air intake prices on that about 70 to 200 ,, you can just make the stock one run better then perfect its possible cheers ;)
What about a 4.0?
You can check the ho motor might not have it many setups they have
It's called a torque nut, you use a torque driver or a torque socket on it.
Torx
Yes, more air will give you a little more power, but only changing air intake will make your engine run lean, which is why you have 'better' fuel economy. But you'll wreck your engine by running it like that for long periods
I would agree that is what the mass air flow sensor is there for to tell the computer to adjust to the changes
Water injection for the win.
Actually, you don't run your truck lean, because the more air you pull in, your truck compensates with fuel flow to keep the air/fuel ratio the same.
#ScienceForTheWin
There is some dumb people out there. They no nothing about working on cars. Then take advice from people that dont know how to work on cars. THEN SWEAR IT WORKS.
Looking for good content suggestions and what you would like to see. Leave in comments below
What do they have that restriction for!?
Probably to slow the airflow, produce less turbulence and provide for better stacking of air molecules, as well as to probably appease the EPA.
The intake runner on my 93 3.0 for instance has a section with two cones in it, with the large end of the cone tapering up with the direction of airflow its essentially a venturi but since it's backwards it acts as a diffuser duct. Intake geometry has a lot of interesting concepts behind their designs that just seems to be baffling in terms of being beneficial.
..interesting...
How the hell did you get the restrictor out?
it took a bit for me as well but with some good pliers and some cussing it will come out. if you are having issues contact me
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fordrangeraddictforlife gotta love some good ole fashion cussing hell I bet the fellas at Ford really love ya on this shit lol hopefully they blowing smoke up asses with it makes your shit run lean if it does then show proof I say it's probably a damn restrictor part for BS stuff. I'm a life long faithful Ford man but good God the damn shit today they put in these models have defective and garbage shit on it and ford was the embodiment of the best performance available why restrict it in this little part if you got something that is working for you and can work for others go for it cause it damn sure ain't gonna get no love from the manufacturing company that's for damn sure good video man really cool
--??
Torx bits
Yip under pressure during filming
Torque screw
I LOVE IT! Simple solutions can almost ALWAYS be found, if you do your research! I want to hear more, and am subscribing to your channel because of this vid.
You would probably LOVE a new technology that improves power and mileage without adding any parts, called "Wave-Form Technology" by MileagePlus+.
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Do NOT do this! Your engine will run way way to hot and with the constant over heating your head will crack or you'll wear your engine down. This is not a simple solution. It is if you're trying to destroy your block haha
ok there must be a reason ? cold starts ? emissions some thing why there this blockage ?
ya it could be related to torque but restricting airflow to the engine would dercrease that wouldn't you think? or the throaty sound you hear ford prob did not want customers hearing and coming for a (strange sound under the hood)
lesterclaypool1 I think it's to silence it, other people have said it's a tad louder when they do this
Ok
My 3.0 V6 has power
does this work on a 3.0 go engine
it will as long as you have a restrictor inside your intake tubing just check for
My V6 has a funky intake tubing that you'd have to replace completely
just remember more air will make engine run lean.
Joshua how so, when the computer is controlling your air fuel mixtures. Soo all the people with cold air intakes are hurting their engines too?
@@78djohnson the computer is correcting for the added air intake
I'd just drop a 427 hemi in that thing if you really want some ponies, link to a B&M Hydro with some Indy Blue Streaks and now your cooking with gas my brother.
@@jiggyjfishing219 He probably did, just maybe his fingers hit the seven when he meant to hit the six...
427 is not a hemi, 427 is a ford cleveland, 426 is mopars hemi
@@mustangmadd3172 Nope. The 427 Ford engine was an FE block. You must be thinking of the 351 Cleveland.
@@ksman9087 yeah your right. I didn't think about that. Thanks for pointing that out
I can't buy into a guy that doesn't know the name of simple hardware. Things are put there for a reason, and wouldn't be especially if it reduced MPG for no good reason. CAFE standards were met with small engines
@land. Catalytic converters are put on for a reason as well... but people delete them all the time though...don't they? The "Fordrangeraddictforlife" made a great observation about the mass AIR FLOW sensor. The reason ford installed the baffle is because Ford's motto used to be "Better ideas" when many of them actually weren't! The restriction is there to attenuate noise, and prevent foreign objects from getting into your throttle body....That's it! If it were that important, then cold air intakes would have them incorporated in their kits, and or have a warning of sorts. =)
Yup it just there to reduce engine noise.
It is just a noise baffle. The Ranger predates the current ridiculous CAFE standards. Delete the noise baffle and the catalytic converter and the power and fuel economy will go way up. If the vehicle is running in top shape, it will even pass the emission test. The catalytic converter is mainly there if the vehicle is running poorly. Poor running cars produce a lot of unburnt exhuast. I hollowed out my catalytic converter years ago and deleted a bunch of air restrictions on my air intake years ago. I pass inspection every year for the last fourteen years. When deleting the catalytic converter. Just hollow it out and put a piece of exhaust pipe in it. Where I reside requires a visual confirmation of the catalytic converter. The inspector looks and sees the converter so it is okay. If your car is not running perfectly, do not delete the catalytic converter. It will make a lot of smoke and not pass inspection, as many of my unfortunate excoworkers have found out.
Anthony Wayne you just sounded dumb as shit
Can you help me please
I don't know about fuel economy but if you want more power , just get the 4 liter V6 and get 220 HP .
The OHV 4.0l is only rated to around 155hp the SOHC isn't much higher.
@@RollingRigTraction The newer 3 liter has more power than the old 4 liter . And the 5 speed automatic is stronger and all around better than the old 4 speed auto .
@@OlderthanIlookyoungerthanIfeel your response is moot and has zero to do with the 4 liter. Thanks for the info BTW although it's useless as I wouldn't run anything OBDII off road ever.
@@RollingRigTraction The newer ones have more power and better transmissions , the SOHC has 220 HP compared to the OHV's 160 . The 3 liter has almost the same as the OHV , and even the little 4 banger is close to the same . I agree that most new anything is built to fail . But I've driven every version of the Ranger going back to the early 70s . And the 98 through 2011 version is by far the best one they ever made . And modern fuel injection and OBD are fine with me . I like having more power and burning less fuel . Most of what's wrong with modern car's , is safety and driver aids . That's why a new Camaro weighs about 1000 pounds more than my gen 4 . My 2003 Ranger has 2 air bags and antilock breaks , and it only weighs about 3100 pounds . I'm going to class that as old tech , and nothing to be afraid of .
You could put a V6 Mustang computer on your straight for Ford ranger because it’s the same motor they just slow down and I’ll make it faster
a inline 4 and a v6 is not the same engine..
I don't get it, why not get someone to film this while you're doing the work???
Henry O I agree, I my videos would sure benefit from it. Stay tuned have another video in the making
Hey David, I forgot to thank you for making the video! appreciate it much.
maybe he's like me fat lonely and with no friends
Or a tripod
If he had a budget to hire a camera man he wouldn't drive a ranger. Speaking from experience here😂
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"Scientists hate him"
Or just put a cold air intake on for even more power and performance for your engine. Smh
you did all this to get 3 more horsepower give me a break
He didn't say 3 hp he said 3 more miles to the gallon
It’s easy you’re just lazy
Why not!
Work great on mine!
Any improvement is good
NO...... BAD, increasing size make it RUN LEAN, changing anything on the other side of the MAF sensor will make ecu confused and constantly be correcting, misfiring, bogging. it changes the MAF Table to different amounts of air throw-out the entire rpm range and load map, not linear BTW, your engine now wont be able to accuracy measure the CORRECT amount of air coming in to your engine and will now not be able to tune it based on the factory tube diameter, witch is already about 25% oversized for its PEAK RPM range increasing the size reduces port velocity and torque only for a tiny but of HP beyond the max RPM of this engine
Mines been fine!
ECM should make the proper adjustments.
1994 2,3 Ranger
@@suvado check the o2 fuel trims they will be all over the place, the ecu dosnt fully correct because it cant accurately measure airflow and will even bypass to a maf base map, and lower power in a safer tune, and usually throw a po171 on newer vehicles also
@DeVoN420zz Mines a 94, OBD1. Very Basic Fuel Injection!
Removing the Silencer won't effect it enough. Restriction at the airbox, won't allow enough airflow to set a code. OBD2 is a different story.
Mine gained a bit more power, no codes! Happy with the easy mod
@@suvado lol
@@DeVoN420zz Won't cause any issues with the OE airbox. Lol Can even set the engine idle speed on these older ones
Your still going to get passed by a moped. That 2.3 is still going to be really slow. I know I own one
4 fingers 10:25
torques they are called torques
+lesterclaypool1 - Torx
Торкс
Ĺok
This is a bad idea y’all
Thank you, almost considered.
Why would you say that?
How is that?
Two comments. 1. Sorry to see that you have lost the end of your left index finger. 2. Did you think of sweeping the floor of your garage before making this video? A cleaner background may lend more confidence in what you are saying to the viewers of your post.
dropping or removing the tail gate has been proven to make MPG worse.
DO NOT DO THIS! You are playing with the mass airflow sensor and this will cause misfires and engine lights
Actually, no, you're not.
By the time the air gets to the throttle, it has already been metered by the MAP/MAF.
I did this, and never once had a CEL come on related to it.
Its still a 4 banger.
Very bad idea.
whyyy, im about to do the same thing
@@americantrucking6843anything bad happened I’m thinking of doing that to mine
“Upgrade only takes about five minutes to do”.................produces 12 minute video doing it.
Did you not watch the video, he also replaces the tailgate
This is idiotic more air flow would increase the amount of gasoline being pushed to your throttle body causing it to lose mileage 😂😂
Are you really trying to tell people how to make a Ford break down 😂😂😂 good job. They already have enough problems you ford owners like to make more problems 😂😂😂
bigots everywhere.