We FIXED The $300 Ford Ranger And It Doesn't Make ANY SENSE
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- čas přidán 16. 03. 2020
- I bought a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT for $300 after a friend had wrenched on it and couldn't get it running. We went through all the usual stuff the first day, and could not make the truck run. After a couple more days of troubleshooting we decided to do the two man job of checking the timing while running the engine on starting fluid. To check the timing base value you have to pull the SPOUT connector. Once we did that and started it on starting fluid it ran perfectly and never died. We've figured out that it will start on base timing, then advance correctly after it starts. Everything I'm reading is pointing to a bad ECU so I'll slap one in and this truck can leave!
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#Ford #FordRanger #CarFlip - Auta a dopravní prostředky
"He got it FIXED? Guess i better stop everything I'm doing to figure out how."
It's okay, we still don't know how... but 99% sure it's a failed ECU 😂
@@WatchJRGo first thing I said Jr go!
Why don't you fix the video volume so we might be able to hear it
My bad your good my phone is the problem
@@WatchJRGo Did you check the wiring on the return side of the spout?
I'm really happy you worked on this Ranger. My dad got his 1992 Ranger as a one-year old truck. We still have it to this day. Great truck. 4 cyl, 5 speed :) It's stupid reliable.
Probably one of the best small trucks ever made incredibly reliable
Top 3 all time ...91 Toyota .94 ranger XLT 4.0 and grave digger
Like I said, days ago, those had module problems. The SPOUT connector keeps the module from handling the timing control over to the ecm. Unplug the spout and the module runs on base time
I think it might be the TFI module
So changing that module should be the fix? I don't know anything and I'm a nobody but I need these videos to learn thanks to everyone.... so I'm wrong.... Thanks for ur input guys....
Hey Remember on that first video when we all said the computer wasnt taking over? +1 to OP
@@albertcastle7786 : Actually, cleaning up the grounds and heat sink could fix it, if an auto parts store bench test has it come back okay.
Just be warned: Removal of an ignition module off of the intake manifold can be not worth it, if the bolts that hold it on are corroded beyond repair. They are also very easy to strip the heads on as well.
had a '91 Ranger... same configuration... 2.3L dual plug, 5 speed standard cab short bed XLT. Great little truck. Drove it cross-country 5 times. You're right... they're a great little truck. No significant power to speak of, but always ran great. Never had a SPOUT connector issue with mine. Bought it 6 years old with 100k miles on it for $2000. Drove it another 7 years & 92k miles, & sold it for $1500.
10:36 that wire loom is really close to that belt might wanna find a cover or move that before something bad happens
There is normally a cover on the timing belt so it doesn't touch
I’ll offer you a 1 ounce hand sanitizer and 10 cups of ramen for this truck. Lol
Looking for minimum 1 pallet TP 😛
WatchJRGo I can meet half way with one of those comically huge TP rolls from Charmin lol
I got your pallet of tp
Don't forget the toilet paper ! (Since some idiot out there has stock piled 1 million rolls.)
@@Bizones16 lol that's what this whole thread was about... Tp =toilet paper. :-D
Perhaps the lower timing sensor has the wiring mixed up when they soldered it in.
The real joy of getting something working is the main thing. It does not depend if it really makes sense financially to make this kind of repair. Keep on going!
I am an avid fan of crime shows, this 'Who Done It' topped them all!
😂 OBD1 did it, I always blame that junk
@@WatchJRGo Well it was an awesome journey, who woulda thunk!
Bad EEC is very common in these. I chased a driveability issue on my 97 with the 2.3 for a year before I finally replaced the EEC. Problems all went away and it ran WAY better.
I would totally put a switch in.👍 Excited for the upcoming Ford truck vids.
I still say check ALL the ground connections on the entire truck. Remove them all, clean all the spots where they connect with sandpaper, use some dielectric grease, and reconnect them. It can make a huge difference in reliability on these trucks. The ECU uses grounds to switch circuitry on/off...
Jesus loves you alot trust in His death 4 salvation and be saved from eternal hell
@@Fit4CJesus is a modern made-up name that did not exist even 500 years ago. In fact the letter "J" is a relatively recent invention.
You are the best man!!! You inspire me to flip!! Please keep up all the great videos I’ve been Watching everything!
Posted for 1 hour 13k views damn this channel is getting big... Been here since damn near the beginning... Keep it up
I’m guessing that you could have a couple sticking valves. They hang up until you advance the timing and then they’re ok. Drive it for 50 mi with sea foam in the oil then change it with synthetic oil and call it a day.
Just started following the channel when you started this truck. I have to say i really enjoy the videos and you've got a new subscriber!! Great content :)
I recently bought the same model truck, but a 94, for 200 bucks. Been going through the exact same stuff. Great videos!
I knew you guys couldn’t be defeated, I loved the ranger series. I like to see a challenge.
Magical fix... still sounds electrical to me. In fact now that I'm thinking back to my brother in law's Ranger I believe he got the wiring harness too close to the exhaust manifold and it melted some of the wires into a chunk. Most of the wires stays separate, but a couple melted enough to touch intermittently.
Good job getting it back to life.
My first new vehicle was a 1994 Ranger XL.
Had the same color as the hood on your '93.
Congrats on getting Ford Danger running. Ironically as you were checking out parts I noticed how garage roof was framed, beams run lengthwise (long ways) instead of crossways (short ways).
Worked on an early 90's E-250 once that confounded me to no end.
The entire ignition system replaced, TFI module, several sensors, fuel system gone through......just, no start-no-how........ended up being a bad ECU, which was surprisingly cheap from Napa.
Friggin lost it at "I know what I've got" lmao
Nice little series. Keep up the good work
Makes me miss my 93'.Same color but long bed.Leased it for 2 years back in the day when I was selling new Ford's.Never had any problems with it.Wish I would of kept it!Little Pinto motor came a long way from the 70's.Dual plug head was a cool trick to squeeze a few more ponies out of the coral and also burned cleaner.Was also the 1st American engine designed with metric parts in this country when it was introduced for the 1974 model Mustang 2 and Pinto.Nice job getting it back going JR.
You guys are good at what you do. My compliments. Hey, someone will have a good work truck for transportation.
awesome series! love that you're getting back to your roots flipping clunkers. keep it up :D
I couldn't wait to watch and hear what the fix was! It wasn't clear but I'm thinking you said you will replace the ECU
Knew you'd get it running! Great work.
I had a '96 4.0 automatic. Purchased in '98 with 27k miles, ran to the ground at 332k miles. Engine was a beast, especially considering my lack of taking care of it. It should have died around 220k tops. Only had to replace front left caliper and solenoid, thermostat, tensioner pulley and belt, starter, tires a few times, and battery twice. Had it 11 years, and it saw 34 states.
Dam thank you for someone showing me wear the spout is !! Looked at tones of other videos nothing . But yours helped me a lot !!!! Thank you again!!!!! Paid 300$ for my 1993 Ford Ranger 2.3
I also own a 93 2.3 Ranger. It just happens to be same color (except for your replacement hood). My coolant gauge has always indicated barely warm even when the engine reaches the normal operating temperature of 193 degrees Fahrenheit. Early on I contacted the previous owner but he assured me that it's normal and not to worry about it. Last spring I decided to replace the thermostat anyway. I ended up having to remove the fan, fan housing, and upper coolant hose in order to provide working room. The first attempt was a complete failure. The truck ran icy cold. I don't know how often this is the case, but the funky thermostat housing also needed to be replaced at the same time in order for the new thermostat to seat properly. I recommend that people replace both parts to save time. With the fan removed for the second time, I decided to also replace the fan clutch as preventative maintenance. That job doesn't take long. By the way, there was no change in the temperature gauge reading afterwards but it did provide some peace of mind.
The driver side spark plugs are hidden under the intake manifold, fuel injector rail, and part of the wiring harness. Some are much harder to get to than others. The job of replacing plugs on that side is so difficult, in fact, that my shop manual recommends removing all the stuff blocking the way first. Wow, are you kidding me? It would be nice if someone posted a clear video on either how to remove the intake manifold and fuel injector rail or how to go about replacing the plugs with the least amount of hassle. There are some videos but I found them so murky and incomplete that they were useless.
The Ford Ranger was quite interested. I love when it come to troubleshoot. that was my favorite show like a mystery movie
The other spout connector changes the computer strategies for higher octane fuel. Common to unplug it when you have spark knock problems. You might have a Ignition module going bad.
We did try a brand new ignition module, no change (with and without the SPOUT connector, you can see the old one pop back in during the video) 😬
WatchJRGo I used to work at Ford dealer until 2004, retired. My old mind remembers pulling spouts on no starts as part of flat rate diagnostics. But can’t remember the rest. Thinking it was something easy to repair. In eastern Canada those trucks are long rusted out and gone. It was a common problem at one time.
@@drost582 It may be a bad TFI module. It is located on the back of the distributor.
@@collinklitz7434 : TFI isnt used on a 1989-1998 truck, as EFI and DIS replaced carburetors and distributor ignitions in the same year.
What you're referring to is a bad Ignition Control Module, located on the front of the intake manifold. And yes, those modules are known for having casing issues, corrosion, and grounding problems, because of the engine heat under the hood.
The TFI module next to radiator ( on some models) is malfunctioning. If you still have issues with it not warming up, the impeller on water pump needs to be checked. I've been dealing with these engines for ages. Always the same issues. Here is something for you to wrap your head around, Do both spark plugs fire on the same cylinder or does the spark get wasted on the exhaust stroke on the other cylinder? For those who don't know, these engines have 8 spark plugs.
Watching this made me miss my 82 ranger. Same set up. The sold it to me because after he got the motor rebuilt he couldn't get it to stop leaking oil. I towed it home and immediately found the valve cover bolts were finger loose. I put a new gasket in it a pcv and filters. It took me another 100,000 miles before I sold it to a guy for $1,000. All I did was keep up on maintenance. It's still running to this day.
Glad you figured it out, makes me want another Ranger lol
Awesome videos. I wish I knew the inside of my ranger like the back of my hand lol appreciate the insight. Just traded my 97 for a 90.
That's freaking awesome dude. Great job
I was going to say I had a 1991 explorer that had all kinds of strange problems like this. After trying all kinds of things for years we finally figured out the ECU circuit board was all corroded on the back side. Replaced it and sold the thing. It's still driving around town now.
Love this gen ranger. No more truck than you need, plenty of power for its size
keep up the videos JR we need the distraction right now..:)
You have two of those connectors because you have two different sets of plugs intakes in exhaust and two different timings also so it would make sense that there would be two different connectors great video guys I've been following along
Thanks for the content as well. much appreciated normality. out here in the bay area people are acting as if the world is ending not just interrupted. keep it up!!! Buy a lexus is300!!!
Glad you got it fixed it looks just like my!!
Great stuff JR. Keep it it up.
Ford had 2 different ICMs during the OBD1 years, gray and black (you can look it up, thousands of blogs sites) Sometimes both ICMs in the same model year, but the ECU works differently depending on the ICM. An issue with part stores is they all make gray ones, so if you go to OReiley or NAPA...they just come in gray. If the spout connector removed is allowing the car to run, you might have the wrong ICM, because the spout operation is different for each one. If you decide to trouble shoot deeper, I would recommenced you look up the correct ICM using the serial number of your ECU, and go with a genuine motorcraft part to ensure it’s the correct ICM. Oh...and another ford idea...there is a special thin wall socket to fit inside the ICM to remove it from the heat sink. Good luck!
So basically you're proposing a switch for manual control of timing during starting... like the Model T... lol I love it
What company did you “special order” your ECU from? Thank you.
Already said days ago unplug the SPOUT connector. Timing advance is NOT controlled by the ICM, its controlled by the main computer receiving the PIP signal. Replacing the ECU can still not be the problem. The problem can be the PIP sensor inside the distributor, solved by replacing the distributor.
Totally agreed on the switch solution. I was thinking the same thing.
I've got two 94's and a 96 that I'm putting in a 2.5 Great videos as always. I would have sent you an ECU. You're right, they usually run forever, but sorely lacking power.
I'm currently having this problem with my 94 ranger it was running fine but one day to another it died and wouldn't start. Do you know what could it be ?
Thats what I was thinking install momentary switch which would be open when pushed after it starts switch would stay closed would be a great work truck.
Glad you got it going!
Did you check coolant temp sensor? When I use to work on Genie boom lifts, with 2.3L ford engine, it was common to have a no start due to a faulty coolant temp sensor
Hey JR I love your videos Man! Keep it up
I have an 09 ranger not super surprised on how little things have changed (mine is the 5 speed manual with the 2.3 as well)
Josh... Smells like Pennzoil, Car Wzard licks the dipstick, nope Valvoline, licks a second time...yup 20W-50.
Great video, love the Josh GoPro out the window action shot!
Car lubricants are an acquired taste, I prefer Motul for the color! 😂
Nice job, way to troubleshoot! 👍
Check the cam timing, they can jump a tooth If push started. Injector drivers in the ecu might be toasty as well. Good luck
Every time I watch one of your videos it reminds me of king of the hill 😂😂😂
The last video someone commented on it being a possible factory alarm issue, and this looks like he was on the right trail.
Great job guys
Glad you Got it Going!!
I have Mazda 1994 it is like the one you pay for the three hundred and I ah e problem exactly as you did I take three Machanic I towed three times they all told me to take my truck I did it want to Junked any way I watch your video and I got it from you to fix my truck and I really really greatly appreciated for that video you was great help and did you save me a lot of money
Thank you
Please need to see a Ranger clean episode
that's a wierd one... sounds like the TFI (ignition) module then, usually when they go they just go. it could also be a wiring issue somewhere, but usually the TFI module will get really hot if it's bad. The TFI module is the one that used to be on the distributor on the older ones, but moved to a little aluminum block on the inner fender. Also, 5.0L EEC IV v8's from that era swap into those trucks very easily, and the wiring harness will plug in if you get another truck harness :)
just found your channel and it's pretty sweet!
Well, I was wrong, I'll own it! I honestly thought the cat converter was it.
On the actual problem, I'm not sure in this one, but a friend had one around that era, bought it brand new and it had similar issues, turned out the ECU was mounted under the dash and one of the pinch welds was leaking letting water run into the the ECU and shorting it out. The dealership ended up giving him another truck. Might be worth a look at the connectors?
Also, Ford Motorsports used to sell a camshaft for these, I put one in my '94 2.3l, really opens them up around town, lots more low end and driveable power, it still sucked on the highway, but a good city truck.
Love the channel bro!
LOVE your videos!!
I love that little pickup..
Better be bringing one of those to your future shop.
Grounds? I have found on fords of that time a lot of times cleaning and inspecting the connections made the fix last longer. The gremlins have driven me crazy over the years, grounds are the first thing I check now. the small ground wire off the battery has a connection that looks like a fusible link. also if it has battery clamps replaced , folks seem to like to disconnect the frame ground lug on the wire to get a little more length to the wire. The bad grounds can cause weird / non working fuel gauge, tail lights, turn signals and other assorted intermittent weirdness.
Sweet! What is the "code reader" you have? I know there's no obd port, wish there was. I have a 93 also but with the 3.0l 5spd. These are definitely fun trucks to run around.
Bought my ranger for 200. 00 from a buddy of mine bright it back from the dead and he is amazed how it fixed it up
Great work thanks for the content
Congratulations!!
I wish you could get a truck like that here in the UK. Everything of this vintage in this rundown state is rusty as hell. The idea of getting a truck in this condition and price that you could make reasonably reliable for a low cost just can't happen when rust is a factor. The frame would be crusty with so many holes to patch, you have to have some good steel to weld too!
Ford went OBDII in 1995 & 1/2. This is when they got the capability to read data from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) via a scan tool. The pre-OBDII was flash codes that read through the dash MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) and could be initialized by a jumper under the hood or with a code reader that used the same connector's. The symptom that is being experienced by that old Ranger is most likely a bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. The same issue is common in most MAF cars and trucks. Runs crappy or will not start with the SPOUT connector plugged in. Unplug the SPOUT connector and it starts and runs. When the SPOUT connector is unplugged the engine runs in Open Loop Mode and the timing is fixed at 10 degrees BTDC. That is why it starts and runs but has poor acceleration and overall performance. In this mode of operation the Air/Fuel ratio is also fixed and ignores the Oxygen Sensor input.
See that spaghetti wiring barfing out of the dash? That is prob the source of the issue. I have seen remote start installations do weird stuff like that.
-- Oh and I want to say I am proud of U guys for buying trouble-shooting fixing and selling. I used to do that back in the day of the Gremlin and 67 Firebirds. Esp. proud that U share your knowledge and experiences!
-- Good job!
This has been a really interesting short story. I've been following this one closely.
There's an electrical load someplace that's being changed when you pull the connector. ECU issue that isn't showing in the codes.
This has been a cool project
What was that scanner device you said read the codes? I want one of those for my old Ford
I’m thinking it’s a partially sheared woodruff key at the crank. I would check the alignment of both the crank and cam sprockets to their respective shafts then set the timing again.
That IAC gave me flash backs to my 90 foxbody lol
Have you checked the timing belt for damage? Had this same engine and could never get it to run right. Turns out that the timing belt had a bad spot and it was slapping the crank sensor. Replaced the belt and problem went away.
I have a 93 2.3l ranger and the coolant temp never really reads above the N in normal👌🏽👌🏽
I have a 2001 ford ranger that doesn't go forward, it only goes in reverse. By any chance do you have an idea what it might be?
Carbon track in the spout connector, shorting it?
Nice!!! Little Trucks!!
Is there a hole in the frame on the drivers side rear under the bed? My grandpa had a ranger just like that and I’ve been looking for it for months
Yooo this is my truck, that's awesome to seee the last owner!
You have more knowledge than me, so kudos to you for doing this type of thing, but it's still unsatisfying to not know what the answer is to that starting issue.
Thank you for taking my mind off this madness! This epidemic has me all shook up. Be safe , be well ! ♥️🇨🇦
Did the SPOUT issue stem from the ECM being bad or did you change it just to change it? Having same issue with my 94 2.3L is why I'm asking
Went down this exact same rabbit hole with my '93 Ranger about year ago. Long story short, both coil packs are bad. This engine is twin plug head. It has separate coils for each bank of plugs. One or both will be used at different times depending on engine speed, load, and temp. All controlled by the ICM. The truck runs without the SPOUT because it's in default setting, using both coils and banks of plugs at the same time. When running like this each coil pack picks up where the other one is not giving a strong enough spark. One plug will fire where the other in the same cylinder will not, allowing the engine to run.
Checked the position sensors? Crank/Cam? Sometimes they can go out without going all the way out. Sometimes they need adjustment.