Is My Harley Street Bob Stage 1 BROKEN!?
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- Is My Harley Street Bob Stage 1 BROKEN!? My Harley Street Bob stage 1 has been acting up a little bit. Ever since tuning the bike I have noticed some weird things going on with the RPMS of the bike. Take a listen and let me know if you have any idea what could be causing this!
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EITMS
It can be turned on and off by rolling the throttle forward for 6 seconds. Sometimes called parade mode. It cuts the gas off to the rear cylinder to help keep the bike cool.
When you cut EITMS on the cruise light blinks green. When you cut it off I the cruise light blinks yellow.
Yeah I'm starting to see that seems to be the case now.
Was going say same its shutting the rear cylinder off happens when temps is over 280 at idle. Do as he says roll throttle foward when it does it and itll go away
yeah I have a 24 rg it does the same with the eitms light on
I thought that the rising idle rpm is designed to make the oil pump to circulate oil faster - cool the engine. This is happen when is very hot , traffic etc.
Today's Harley Davidson is a collection of government regulations on 2 wheels. So much electronics waiting to have a expensive failure. The CV carburetor on my Sportster is 25 years old and was cleaned for the first time in 25 years. Simple is good in all things.
Yeah, the govt. is doing that regulations thing just to mess with your head. Can't be for any other reason like fuel economy and smog...remember LA in the 60s/70s?
"Muh old clunky Sportster" ..lol.
It's the EITMS cutting in, when the motor gets hot, (More so in the hotter months and mostly stop go traffic) the EITMS cuts in and turns fuel off to the rear cyclinder and the rear cyclinder turns into an air pump thereby cooling the rear cyclinder, Harley for probably as long as they have made V Twins has had overheating problems of the rear cyclinder. There is a description of the EITMS in the owners manual.
Yeah realizing now it was enabled somehow and I relaize it was
@@TheMotoJawn My 2017 streetglide had the EITMS setup, I didn't realize my bob had it installed, it cut in last summer in stop /go traffic and I thought the air fuel sensor in the inlet manifold was dirty, that sensor can make the engine run like the EITMS.
Sounds like an intake leak. Did they put the support bracket on when they added the air cleaner if it needed it? It's an extra part I see a lot of install videos do not add it during installation.
@themotojawn have you checked to see if they set your throttle back to where when you at idle the rear cylinder will stop. If you roll your throttle forward and hold for a few seconds it should shut off
Yep! My 2020 Softail Standard with 21000 miles did the same exact thing a few days ago. It was a flaky clutch switch. If you have ever noticed, when letting out on the clutch very slowly without moving the throttle, the engine will speed up a couple hundred rpm. This is so subtle you don't even notice it when you pull away from a stop, but it is there and it is normal. What isn't normal is when it gets stuck in the "pull away" mode and won't idle back down. I treated my clutch switch with a couple drops of DeOxit and flicked it a few times with my finger to break up the oxidation that builds in the switch contacts. Fixed it. While I'm on the clutch and brake switch issues let me pass on some information about a couple other problems I have had. My bike began not starting in gear........turned out to be a flaky clutch switch. My cruise control began dropping out while riding along. Turned out to be a flaky brake switch. Cleaned it with DeOxit, flicked it a few times and it was fixed. Just flicking the switch a few times works also but the DeOxit will make the fix last longer. Hope your bike responds the same as mine did.
I vote for the automatic cylinder deactivation. Probably not much to worry about. It shuts the back cylinder off. If you blip the throttle it does exactly that...turns the deactivation off. My FXLRS does that pretty quickly w/very hot engine....like maybe 10 seconds after stopping. Again, not much of worry in my opinion. Yea, it definitely sounds different when it is a one cylinder. But, it is better for you in the long run. I heard it. definitely what it is.
Interesting thanks for the info, just strange it never happened before the tune
@@TheMotoJawn If this helps, my '23 FXLRS has not tune one it...Yet. It soon will have a cam, pipe, PVIII tuner. For now though, it is all stock. Maybe Dynojet can ease your worries. Maybe the tune makes it more pronounced but yea, it is cylinder deactivation.
@nhzxboi Thanks man yeah seems right a lot of signs pointing to it being exactly that 👍
That bike doesn't have rear cylinder activation.
@@kellybarnard5242 I think you are wrong. Look in your owners manual under EITMS. It even tells you how to shut it off.
Did you get a tune when you replaced the intake, exhaust and headers? Surging could be manifold or exhaust issues. Make sure your headers are good and sealed tight to the heads and check manifold. You need your idle set to 925 ish minimum as well. Make sure your EITMS is off. Turn bike to on position and roll throttle forward for 3 seconds. It comes on once the rear head temp reaches 289 degrees F
Thanks a lot of signs pointing to the EITMS I'm going to check that out
@@TheMotoJawn it's easy to turn on accidentally.
That happened to me with my sporty when I put shell gas ⛽️ I usually use mobile 93 octane…. I really don’t know if is your issue but as soon as I put mobile back again it went away
Seems to be the eitms engaging
I have had exactly the same problem after the stage 1 installed.
Try reflashing back to the stock tune. If still there put back on the stock intake and try it. I know some people have had issues the the stock plastic intake manifold cracking.
Thanks ill have to double check that manifold
Off topic, but you can fix the turn signal hyper flash by turning the bike to run, turning your hazards on for at least 10 flashes, turning the bike off. When you turn it back on your hyper flash indicator should be fixed.
Happened to me throttle body due to over tightening bolts on intake most likely. Couldn’t see for myself. And I tried removing and reinstalling intake
Ive had this happen, i would check the oil temp, its definitely rear cylinder deactivation. I don't believe it happens at 287 degrees though. Maybe the tune activates it at a cooler temperature. You can turn it off, i haven't tried it. Something to do with roll off throttle.. and watching your cruise control color? The throttle does roll forward a little from resting position.
Tha KS definitely checking that out
I didn't think the m8 in the Street Bob has rear cylinder activation. My 09 cvo 110 fat Bob had it, and it's definitely a noticeable sound change.
Maybe a funky stage 1 module. Is there a way to test it? Good luck.
Seems to be the eitms system engaging
@TheMotoJawn was the 1200 your first Motorcycle?
Had a 750 first but yeah majority of first riding was the 1200
Looked at my Manual and it states that the street bob has EITMS. Shows you how to deactivate it as its activated from factory
Yeah that seems to be it. Of course I was thinking worst case scenario. I got mine used and didn't get a manual. Need to look I to getting one
Run the tuner again in auto tune. The tune may be out of spec when it's running hotter
Also check the intake manifold between the cylinders isn't cracked - I think it may be plastic
Yeah I'll double check the manifold too 👍
@@TheMotoJawn couldn't hurt to check your throttle tube isn't gunked up preventing it from rolling back to full closed position 😂
Hmm....sounds like you may have an intake leak or something and the computer is trying to compensate for it as you mentioned. That would explain why its good after you blip the throttle because you increase airflow and the leak becomes a smaller percentage of the overall airflow. Best way to test would be spaying with something flammable like starting fluid and see if RPMs change. You won't really be able to see it visually. Definitely check mapping too for sure.
The factory shop manual for my 2005 Sportster says to use an unlit propane torch to check the intake for air leaks.
Thanks for the info I'll give that a shot. Where do you think to try? Mostly around the intake?
@TheMotoJawn you want to try behind the intake mainly and the intake manifold area right between the cylinders.
Could it be, simply the factory cylinder deactivation at idle? It's mentioned in the service book.
It never happened until after the tune though 🤔
@@TheMotoJawn its easy to turn on by accident. Turn bike to on position, not started, roll throttle forward for 3 seconds.
If you have dynojet power vision try the autotune feature. Only other thing I could say is get a custom tune. Sounds like your AFR is off.
Thanks yeah I might try another tune
I know the feeling man, my ‘22 Street Bob had 1 lifter fail already. Only 7k on the bike. Shot metal into pan and stuck in the collector. Harley has approved warranty repair, but I’m just concerned a lift er has failed with so little miles.
Damn that sucks. Hope this isn't related to something like that
@@TheMotoJawn yours doesn’t seem as serious. I had a loss of power and could hear ticking. I hope it’s an easy fix for ya and it’s not serious though,
I think we've zeroed in on what it is. I just wanted to add how air-cooled bikes can be w/o such a system. I attended our Local motorcycle rallies(Loudon, NH) back in the '80s with my FJ1100. Awesome bike but also air-cooled. OOF!...get stuck in hours-long traffic and it would start to burn tons of oil, backfire and stall. Harleys were even worse. It sucked then cuz the cops insisted that you keep your engine running when on the road. Silly, but true. The Idle temp management system is not a bad thing...especially when you're stuck in a traffic jam. Old days/New days...at least the system is actively trying to protect itself. I'd not disable it if I were you. It would make a cool video about that system once you figure it out.
Sounds like the EITMS kicking in ..No concern ✌️
I'm not much help since my situation is different and I haven't had problems. However it may be a lesson to those thinking of not using their dealer for engine mods on new bikes.
Since my 23 Low Rider S was purchased new and included in the cost was dealer discounts on parts and labor I decided to be conservative and have the dealer do the work with mostly Harley Screaming Eagle parts except for the Bassani stainless 2 into 1 exhaust which was purchased from the dealer. The tuner includes both a Screaming Eagle tuner and an auto tuner which constantly monitors the system and adjusts accordingly. This setup retains the warranty unlike other outside solutions. Also I saw no need to change the intake since the Low Rider comes stock with a heavy breather intake. Your Street Bob does also which to me does not need to be swapped out for a stage 1.
My 2023 breakout did the same close to the 5K service after the service it was ok don't know what the dealer did because i am a brit living in thailand and they don't speak good english.
As has been said, Engine Idle Temperature Management System (EITMS). Occurs when engine really hot. My 2022 Heritage will even do it after a long highway run and then I have to come to a stop.
Maybe the EITMS was not activated once you purchased the bike it but was activated when you tuned the engine.
Sorry dude but you need to READ your owners manual and pay attention to things that may seem out of the ordinary to you. Such as the EITMS (engine idle temperature management system) 😀
Just to prove it out. Look in your owners manual under EITMS...Engine Idle Temperature Management System. You can turn it off and turn it on.. Pretty easy to do.
You have your engine temperature management system engaged
Now I'm starting to realize that's it. Of course I was thinking worst case scenario lol
@@TheMotoJawn yep...normal.
Take it back to your mechanic, tell him the issue and my guess something needs tweeked with the tune.
Harley Davidson motorcycles should be at their best HP straight from the factory 🏭. Nobody else does the crap we HD does.
Give me an old HD......
Dude...get to it already.