Making a collet adjusting nut assembly for a Royal 5C Collet Closer. Part 1
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 01. 2024
- My lathe came with a Royal 5C Collet closer but was missing some parts. Specifically a collet adjusting nut assembly and a collet holder.
In this video I take a random piece of steel and start the process to make the nut.
I’ll cut some internal metric threads and set up the nut for proper size to fit onto my lathe.
For those stringy chips towards the end, try a shallower depth and higher feed per rev.
Thank you Jim. I am taking notes of all my good comments for future reference...!
I wonder if the carbide tip is ground / sintered for a heavier (thicker) cut? Kurtis at Cutting Edge Engineering cuts cylinder rods for a living, you could watch some of the early videos where he gives tip designations ( he basically uses three) and cut depth/ feed rates. He does have larger than average size tools, but if you have not checked his work yet, you are in for a lot of interesting information. Great to see that you stuck to it! I’m guessing that like most vocations time heals the information void? 😊
Thanks for that reference, I’ll check out his channel! Time and my subscriber comments are very informative!!! Thanks for your continued support!
Next time your boring bar starts screeching, try slowing it down and giving it some more feed. Usually, a sign chatter is starting, or your center height is wrong.
Also try slugging the gibs on your cross slide. If its movine in a light cut like that the gibs are probably not snug enough. You may have better results locking it and only feeding with the compound.
As always, great suggestions! I'll add "checking the gibs" to my list...! Thank you for the tips, I appreciate it.
My lathe came with a Royal 5c collet closer and one collet. Perfect for 3/4" stock lol.
😂 one size fits one size!
@@EnoRestoration Lol yep
I would use cutting oil with that steel. I would also check the height of the cutter every time you make a tool change. Maybe you do and we just don't see it.
I've not yet gotten into any cutting oil. trying to survive without the mess and honestly, I'm not sure when to use it an when not to (other than if parting with HSS). And yes, I missed the tool height when I swapped in the HSS boring bar. Thank you for the comments Scott, I appreciate it!
A lot of folks get the wrong idea about insert shape, the analogy might be one shape being a car another being a train and another being a truck. All of one shape may be a car but it doesnt tell you if it is a limo or a family hatchback or a sports car. What tells you what an insert is for is not the shape but things like the nose radius and more importantly the chip breaker design. The shape only realy says things about tool access and how many cutting edges you get. The chip breaker is far more important as the specs will tell what depth and feed rate it needs to work and in what material. Grade of carbide also comes into the equation to complicate things further. There is great temptation to order tips by just the 4 letter code but folowing the analogy, that just gives you a car or train etc. You need to be much more specific to get the Ferrari you ordered.😂 if you get a manufacturers catalogue you will be amazed at how many different tips that all look the same there are but are all subtlety different for different needs and uses. In a catalogue there should be a graph showing the range of cuts that each of their chip breakers are intended make, some may only work at 3mm deep while others may only take a few thou(yes i mixed units, so sue me) buying surplus or ebay finds inserts you are likely to get the ones that nobody wants because they ordered the wrong ones. Get them from a reputable source with a specific job in mind, and remember that most inserts are intended for high power and precision industrial machines not low power manual ones, but the right ones are available but are often more expensive as they are "specials" not "bulk buys".
To sum up all the above in one sentence, not all tips are equal even if they loòk it.😢
On the variable play you discovered, one advantage of not using the top slide for thread cutting is it can eliminate one set of backslashes. If you keep the top slide where it is intended to be, in line with the lathe axis, and with tight gibs you only have the cross slide lead screw backlash to contend with and that is all in one direction. The real experts at "smaller"lathe use eliminate the top slide from there lathes altogether for superior rigidity and dont miss it when thread cutting at all. Having no top slide also makes sense when a DRO is fitted, as you can ascribe each toòl holder an offset(zero number) for repeatability.
Well you did ask for comments!😂😂😂😂
Great analogy regarding the inserts. I admit that the code on those inserts is a language I’ve not yet learned. Way more complicated than the grinding stones on my surface grinder and I thought those codes were complicated. And even if I did know more about the inserts this was also a piece of mystery metal that seemed to have a chrome outer layer.
I do think my gibs are in need of checking. I’m pretty happy with all I’ve learned from this project so far. Thank you for your continued support!
@@EnoRestoration the numbers make more sense using the ISO definitions, but some folks are metricphobes.😉
If that truly is steel from a hydraulic ram shaft, it’s likely chrome plated and harder than snot. It will fight you the whole way.
You are correct and it did fight!
@@EnoRestorationceramic insert according to Kurtis at CCE- and it gets worn. First 1/8” or so and then it gets “normal “😂
Yep, cylinder rods are inductioned hardened chrome plated alloy steel. Thats why it fought you and wouldnt break a chip at first. The wnmg insert looked like it had a larger nose radius which needs a much larger depth of cut and feed rate than the dnmg tool you had better luck with.
Good point on the radius/doc/feed rate. Thank you for the suggestions and comment!
At the 29:00 try running the cut in the other direction.
Maybe I rolled that edge a bit, it that why you say this? That may have made the threads start a bit easier. Thank you for the suggestion and for watching!