2 Guitar Stands - #2 The deluxe version
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- čas přidán 1. 12. 2016
- This is the second of my 2 guitar stands, and this time it's something your granny would be proud to receive for Xmas so her precious vintage Gibson shred machine doesn't keep falling over.
Here are some affiliate links to materials I used. Purchasing through these links helps support my channel.
Liberon Tung Oil
www.manomano.co.uk/wood-oil/l...
Liberon Quick Drying Tung Oil
www.manomano.co.uk/wood-oil/t...
Colron Finishing Wax
www.manomano.co.uk/wood-wax/c...
Hinge
www.manomano.co.uk/furniture-...
Felt Pads
www.manomano.co.uk/floor-prot...
M4 Bolt
www.manomano.co.uk/catalogue/...
M4 nut
www.manomano.co.uk/hexagonal-... - Hudba
Very nice project Susan, and great that you show the learning curve too. Mark
Hi Susan, wow very nice guitar stand you made ☺thanks for the video.
Once again, a very very nice job. Well done Susan!
amazingly talented. Good work Susan.
Wonderful work my dear :-), Great Craftsmanship. not to mention a beautiful piece ......Keep up the good work!
Hi Susan. Worth the anticipation, nice easy to watch video as always, thanks.
I like one of this. Beautiful job.
That is a fine looking and functional guitar stand you made.
Strong looking hands. A good thing to have when woodworking. I've watched a few of these on guitar stands and everyone seems to have a complete workworking shop with all the required tools: Powered sanders, drill press, routers, table saws, a few with planers and chop saws. Most of us aren't that well equipped.
Great project! You are so right about it not being the mistake its how you recover from them. They say that is the difference between an amateur and a professional, the professional knows how to recover from their mistakes! John
+The Woodworking Shed I actually have a book on woodworking mistakes :-)
Amazing wish i could do that. Also really nice guitar stand
Good job. Well done.
Amazing work!
Very very nice. Great job
Incredible work, congratulations, we salute you from Argentina. This next weekend I must made this idea.
much nicer than the first one I have to say, I love that sapele, looks great with the tung oil finish, nice job
Very Nice young Lady. We need more Susan's in this world.
I really like mahogany, really popped with the oil. Very nice project
very cool! thanks for sharing this.
Hey Susan, nice design! both electric & accoustic fit well, I'll have this design in mind when asking my 'woodworker' friend, thank you so much! greetings from Argentina :)
What you is great but now and again I wish I was there with you to give the benefit of a lifetime of cockups and show you some easy and workable alternatives to some of the processes. Love and kisses, old woodworking guy.
I love wood guitar stands, but I have over thirty guitars plus my pedal steels. I just haven't got the room so most of them are on the walls. I like your work, thank you.
That's a nice stand. Making that kind of lapping joints with just a knife, chisel and saw is IMO the most fun kind of woodworking. It's really quite easy to get a perfect fit. Mark the depth with a gauge, saw one side and chisel in an angle to the bottom of the sawing from almost the other wall. Then use the other piece to knife the other wall location, saw that and level the bottom chiseling from both sides. And it fits like a glove every time.
Susan, the uneven hollows from the router come from Tool pressure, the force into the cutter from depot of cut and speed of feed cause deflection. you see it more often when working with steel but it exists with wood. You did a very fine regroup with saw and chisel and made a lovely stand. Bonus marks for the effort.
+FunkyC you're right. I think if I can come up with a suitable jig to hold the work steady then I'd get a better result
I think if you reduce depth of cut and rate of feed you have less of an issue.
Great result in the end with a couple of hiccups in between,
check out Midway Usa and look at how Larry applies oil and raises grain on rifle stocks, different but the same, another cracking video Susan thankyou
I like the dual use of the stand. Perhaps a dab of superglue on the nuts to hold them as you couldn't tighten them against a screwdriver.
Driving out the hinge pin is a good idea. A spring pin or rolled pin can be installed or use a brass pin as used on knife handles.
This is my favorite so far. I like the hinge action on top not requiring a chorde or strip of metal between sides to limit spread. I wonder if the sides could be joined with a joint not requiring a hinge a all.
I have done the attaching of the hinge in similar situations by removing the pin from the hinge and replacing it afterwords.
Great project and result. The problems highlighted are what most people would encounter and the solutions were good. One or two suggestions from viewers are good too. Could have done a dry run with hinge up in place for marking out. Could use bolts on both sides to balance looks - with plugs! Can't get into all the effort of several coats of oil etc - I'd go for simpler finish like using sanding sealer followed with bit of wax, or even just varnish. But there you go. Thanks for video.
Nice project as always. I like the idea of using masking tape and super glue to hold the pieces together while you cut them, I haven't seen that before, masking tape is a lot easier to remove than double sided tape.
A couple of people mentioned the sandpaper on the mitre gauge to hold the work safely, in addition you could screw a board the the face of the mitre gauge first which would give more support and then fasten the sandpaper to the board. This won't improve the slop in the mitre slot though.
A few different suggestions for dealing with the screws & hinge. Another idea might be to cut a small brass plate to cover the holes and engrave your name or makers mark on the brass, possibly with a date when the stand was made.
It all finished well in the end, keep up the great videos.
Just want to help you out here, I am a carpenter of 36 yrs. When I need to pick up angles, I will layout my work on the floor or on a sheet of plywood. On smaller wood working projects, drafting paper and a architectural ruler. That way you can draw it to scale. Hope this helps in the future with the hinge problem. Good luck.
Hello Susan. Very nice piece of work I love the way it came out. Not to take anything away from the stand it is great as it is. I made a hat rack for my son for Christmas this year at the request of his wife. I used all oak and to hide some screw holes I made dowel plugs as someone in the comments below mention to do. I also made some thin walnut 4 pointed diamond shapes vertically as accents. This would work well to cover the bolts holes you were thinking of plugging one diamond each side at the top. As another idea only, the felt at top I was wondering what it would have looked like with a diamond point cut on each end of the strip at the top. And maybe at the start of each long strip on the bottom only where it meets the upright supports. Leave the other end square. You are getting very good at wood your working and and more amazing each video. It looks fantastic just as it is, all Susan. :-)
For the hinges you could also take out the pin to attach them.
Very nice job. Is there any chance of an imave here of the pattern and dimensions please ? TIA, Steve
To adhere the felt pads to the stand I would recommend using an old inner tube (with the valve stem removed). It can be wrapped around the irregular shape of the stand and apply constant pressure along the contours until the adhesion cures should you want to do something similar in the future. My best to you.
You are an inspiration to all female wood workers! I just subscribed after watching your sander build. Quite impressive too. I look forward to more video's. This one gave me the idea to make a similar stand for my brother for Christmas, so thank you for that. Wishing you all the best and your subs will grown I predict that now, with the good content you have. A fellow wood worker,~Dolly
+CrossGrain Wood Products,LTD Thanks Dolly :-)
I use acetone to wipe down oily tropical woods before gluing them, as it dissolves the oil. The acetone in the superglue/CA glue is doing the same to the tung oil finish.
+Crheston Mitchell a solvent wouldn't remove the oil though unless you wipe away the solution. I was wondering if there's a chemical reaction going on, as naptha is an accelerant for CA - maybe the tung oil acts in a similar way.
Well done, really nice looking stand Susan.
To fill those bolt holes a little nicer you could use a pellet / plug cutter with an offcut and your pillar drill. Much nicer than dowel.
+Pete Moore There's a plug cutter in the post right now :-)
Susan Gardener Great, i always found it better to file or grind down the width of an old spade type drill bit to get a good tight fitting plug.
Love the drum sander, you have more patience than anyone i know, keep up the great videos.
Another Very good job and video. Regarding the counter bore holes, you could cut out 2 x 1/8" thick guitar shapes in light wood and stick one over the holes and one in the same pace on the other leg as decoration. Sorry if I'm sticking my nose in.
+Jack Tar that's a very creative solution. I think I'd prefer inlay, so maybe a simpler shape - a diamond on each side perhaps
Hi Susan,
you could remove the pin from the hinge, screw both parts and then put the pin back.
or make a wooden hinge, and drill the pin hole assembled in the open position.
Just a thought, could you have pulled the hinge pin out, screwed a hinge on both halves, then either put a new pin in, or use old one.
Great video. Always nice to what can be done without a fully equipped shop. Like the design. There is one thing that bothers me is the white spirit bottle is identical to a lot of water bottles. Looks like an accident ready to happen with kids around.
The bottle has a child proof top
Don't put plastic caps, rather use leftover wood and create plugs to fill the holes.
take the hinge pin out and replacement after attaching to the wood.
Would you sell the plans or make an instructable for them?
You should try ScotchBrite pads instead of wire wool for polishing. They hold their shape better and don't shed metal splinters. I haven't tried them on oiled wood so I don't know if they stain (they have abrasive grit so they may still form a sludge with oil) but they sure are nicer for metal cleaning and polishing.
+MattOGormanSmith I might be wrong, but when I looked at scotchbrite pads there was no indication of the equivalent grit, so I avoided them. I could have used 1200 and 2000 grit paper instead, but I decided to go with the instructions on the cans. Like the scotchbrite I'm not sure what the equivalent grit of 0000 wire wool is. I'll keep experimenting
I love to google google. I love to....Google! :)
academic.evergreen.edu/projects/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf
That is a handy little guide.
I love this, very nice. But you didn't need to bolt one side. You could have taken the pin out of the hinge, screwed each hinge plate to its side piece, and then pushed the pin back in with a nail set.
+Crheston Mitchell good suggestion!
Search ebay for a 1/2 inch plug cutter and you'll fing you can fill those holes with plugs made from the same piece of wood which (assuming if you matched the grain direction) would render them almost invisible.
+seafax I've just ordered a set of them :-)
Susan Gardener
:-)
thank you Susan . question please . did the heated wire wool not work ??
From what I recall, heating the wire wool and the stand vastly improved ease of application
thank you
try turning your miter gage around!
Perhaps a hinge with a removable pin might have given a better finish!
+Peter Leonard I'd be tempted to try a wooden hinge with removable dowel pin to get a 100% wood stand - more work though
I wonder if there's a market for those - much nicer than those you can get made from tubes of aluminium or steel. Gotta be worth 30 quid!
I think Susie,you could have removed the hinge pin & made your own fancy replacement.
Then using your math skill,calculated where to put the screw holes for the now seperate part of the hinge.Yes?No?maybe?
Enjoy your videos.
Sandpaper on the face of the mitre gage, attached with some double side tape, would help reduce the walking you experienced.
Here's what I don't like about this style of guitar stand: There is nothing to hold the guitar neck in place. It seems to me that the guitar could roll out the side and fall down. Am I wrong?
are you planning to sell them how much
+Gary King no plans to sell. I'd encourage people to have a go and make one themselves :-)