My go to Miter Saws 2019: Toolsday
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- In this episode of Toolsday, I talk about my current go to Miter Saws. I have been wanting to do this video for quite some time, but didn't know exactly how I wanted to create it. To be honest, I don't think I have one saw that I want to take everywhere. Which is why I chose to talk about these three specific ones. Each saw is good at some stuff but not others. I don't now if these are the best cordless miter saws, but they are my favorite miter saws currently. It is just amazing to think how far battery powered tools have come, and it's exciting to see the future of cordless power tools.
The Metabo HPT 10" is great for being a framing saw, but lacks the precision needed for fine carpentry.
The Makita is great for finished carpentry, but its portability on a jobsite is lacking due to its size and weight.
The Milwaukee 7 1/4" is awesome for portability, and does a fairly good job both as a framing saw, and finished saw, but is lacking the ability for some of the larger dimensional cuts.
I would be curious as to what you guys think, knowing that I only want to use cordless options. I have heard some good things about dewalt's cordless saws but have never used them.
If looking to buy any of these, below are some links.
Metabo 10"
goo.gl/F33mtT
Makita 10"
goo.gl/xKC4Zh
Milwaukee 7 1/4"
goo.gl/TTVEKK
With Ryan's czcams.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw czcams.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
Hi Kyle. I have a couple of Mitre saws (Festool and the Makita in the review). I recently purchased the Metabo as well (I wanted a full battery unit for site work). I had the same issues regarding accuracy. I spoke to the rep who advised that you are supposed to lock the front lever in the down position as well as the bevel lever on the side which tightens up the torsion rods underneath. Hey Preso problem solved…….the saw now cuts very well to the point that I am using it for finish work with great success…..seems counter intuitive, but I can vouch for this and am very happy with the unit….even when compared to my Kapex. Cheers. Greg.
My wife says "Go ahead, buy the saw". This has me worried to no end!
Sounds like a threat.
Might wanna explain
The Metabo/Hikoki has 3 bolts in the back that attach to a floating plate not visible. You loosen them slightly and align the bevel to 90° using a digital angle finding tool(Klein makes a good one). There's a release pin that unlocks the right hand bevel. You align the plate(the 3 bolt plate) with that release pin to stop at 90°, then tighten the 3 bolts down. Now, when the pin is in place, you can adjust bevel left, and stop at your perfect 90°. To adjust bevel right, you push the release pin. To return to 90, you adjust bevel to the left slightly past 90, pull the release pin back, and move it back to the right where it will again stop at 90.
Then there are standard bolts at the bottom of each side to set your 45s and whatnot. You can also use the release pin to stop at 22.5, and possibly 33.9, as that hidden 3 bolt plate has detents in it.
If this sounds complicated, it's really not. I'm just not good at explaining things.
I've also found on the one I had that the slop you feel is the cheap plastic handle moving around, and not the actual unit on the rails. I was able to tighten the screws, making it pretty solid. It feels as good as any other non-vertical grip miter I've use. Another problem with this saw was the miter detent locking bar. It's made of plastic which allows very quick movements swinging left and right, but has a little give in the hinge. Some people have fabricated a replacement, but I've found that just be leaving no pressure on the knob, then locking it down, it always centers on the detent.
I like that Makita, I would go out and get one today if I wasn't scared of my wife lol
It’s a good one
LOL, while i wouldn't buy that one i am in the same boat with the wife.
Glad im not the only one lol
Anywhere hearing anything about the new makita? Same saw basically but its a 12 inch. Looking at getting one but everyone's reviewing the 10s and i cant find any reviews on the 12 inch saw
Mandilónes . Pónganse las pilas mijos
This is why I bought the dewalt 120volt/cordless saw. It really is the king of miter saws out today. So happy I bought it honestly.
I got one if those then I got the 7.25 version.then I got kobalt duelbevel 7.25 dont us either dewalts anymore
Good review, I appreciate your viewpoint. A good saw with the right blade makes a good combination.
My dad was old school, hand tools were his go to tools. In the forty’s my dad had to take a complex journeyman course.
Most guys would struggle completing some of what he went through.
When I was very young I was talking machinist smack.
My dad told me that I wouldn’t make a pimple on a machinist backside. if I didn’t keep my mouth shut and ears and eyes open and listen to my senior coworkers. There is a lot of truth in that. Tough pill to swallow, but wise words.
Nothing beats older hitachi mitre saws that were made in Japan and are mostly metal construction.
They still make some in Japan, including a cordless 7.25" that slides 12.5"
The one in the video is made in China, though.
My main saw is still the Dewalt 780 for most trim and framing. However, I keep that Milwaukee 7 inch in the truck as well on an old miter saw stand because not only is it better for some trim applications, but for a super small job or a repair it's almost always perfect. Last week I did a deck for my cousin and we had the Dewalt cutting all the four by, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x6 lumber, but the Milwaukee cut all the decking. My 13 year old cousin cut all the decking herself and no way would I have let her use that Dewalt. So on top of it being practical, convenient and light, it's also safer.
great video, we need an updated 2024+ miter saw rundown!
I got rid of my 12" and my 10" miter saws and grabbed a 7" slider. Anything that wont fit on that, I just use a circular saw. So much better for mobile transport
Daddy SmokesYams which 7”?
Have both the Kobalt and the Ryobi. Like the Kobalt slightly better
How are you cutting 4x4 using your power saw? The accuracy would not be perfect
@@blockchainshark1392 Two cuts. Flip the wood after first cut, then cut backside
Like how ya went into detail of different jobs. Definitely helps someone looking to buy an all around good saw
The most important thing about choosing a tool is whether or not it's fit for YOUR purpose. In the case of the Makita, the answer is IT IS. The 120V AC version that is. As you say its heavy, so don't move it. If you don't move it does it fit in easily into your shop ?. In most cases it will, because you can put it up against a wall and still use it. Do I take dust collection seriously ? YES. For decades I was careless about breathing fine wood dust, and that ended in having two cardiac arrests, the first in the year I turned 80, and which required triple by-pass surgery three years later. The Makita allows a dedicated shop vac to be connected to it with no fuss.
Finally it gives me a way of making precise cuts with a minimum of effort.
Oh and BTW if you have the battery-powered version, be careful you don't overload the cut if you install a saw with more cutting heads.
Very informed presentation. No biased. And no pointless talk
I don't know if you read your comments, but I have the Makita LS1219L (corded 12") and it has the same dust collection port on it. Get yourself the Rockler Universal Small Port Hose Kit. It's 30 bucks and it's super high quality and will fit a ton of different tools from routers to miter saws etc. The key is cutting off the little triangular gusset that attaches to the open top part of that dust port on the Makita, so you can slip the larger of the two fittings included with the Universal Small Port kit over it snugly. The other end of that Rockler kit will connect directly to a shop vac or a shop vac hose, and you're good to go.
Enjoy!
thanks man you bet i read comments...helps me learn
RR Buildings Hey, happy to help. And I really appreciate all that you do. I’m about to start building my own house (my first house ever) with a family member who’s an experienced builder/contractor, and while I’m not post framing, your build videos have been a huge inspiration.
Cheers!
I love the Milwaukee shadow line
Shadow lines are a millon times better then a laser.
@@smokingcheeba420 whys that?
It lights up what your cutting. And gives a perfect shadow of both sides of the blade. Laser helps with one side of the blade.
You mean the DeWalt shadow line. The one Milwaukee copied. lol stop supporting China idiot. If you are an American then you are a disgrace.
Chinese holdings company will love to hear how much you love their brand 🤣🤣🤣
I have the makita. Awesome saw but it's a damn beast to move. Imo the only way to transport it is permanently mounted on the makita stand. I replaced the stand's wheels with 10" pneumatic wheels spaced 18" apart. Now its steady and easy to transport without knocking anything out of alignment.
I'm very left handed, but never felt an urge to grab the handle of a miter saw with my left.
I have the makita 10” and it’s great 👍🏻 and can’t lie. The only down side is that it’s heavy. Other than that. Full day of run time doing base board with 5.0 batteries. But I personally fully recommended the makita. Just hit the gym and the saw becomes light weight haha
Lightweight, baby!
I can only justify one miter saw, so I have the DeWalt Flexvolt, which usually stays corded in the shop, but when I need to take it out, it's as powerful in the field as it is in the shop. I have a Chopmaster blade for it for finish work, but swap that out when I'm going to do a lot of framing. It's heavy for sure, but it's more important I have a powerful 12 inch saw in the shop.
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
David Muresan you reinvented the DeWalt radial arm saw from the 1950 - 1970 era.
Back when I had my bussiness before lithium batteries, when there was only nicad , I bought a 10" Makita and later on a 10" Bosch. Neither were sliders as far as I knew they were the only ones available back then. The Makita was useless the rpm were so low it didn't cut it hacked the wood , gave it away the day I got it the Bosch was much better but 50 cuts or less and the battery was dead but the installers still loved it. I just don't keep up with the new tools anymore so really liked seeing your collection. Lithium batteries have changed cordless tools tremendously. Where I live its hard to find a battery drill so any other tool is impossible to find here. Thank God for Amazon.
Tips.
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that)..
Good video. I appreciate all of the time you spend on us.
Thanks to you, I hate anything that’s corded anymore.
Hate cords yes
Loved the info about the lasers and the shadow line, thank you very much for highlighting that!
Really great information and thanks for the comparisons! Really good points to think about, shows you really know your stuff!
Thanks Jeff. Appreciate it... I actually just winged this video glad it came off professional. Lol
RR Buildings it came off professional because you really are a true professional yourself and not just one of the backyard, weekender hacks that just used a slider for the first time an hour ago to make a picture frame and after an hour of making kindling and a bucket full of wood filler for that one picture frame they now think they are a pro and the next thing a pro does is to make videos right? Lol, CZcams is full of those videos and that’s why it’s so nice to have your channel cause a lot of us that watch your videos are or were pros ourselves and you know what we do day in day out and what we need and want.
Great video, thank you much!!! Stay safe out there brother!!
DeWalt 12" compound slider corded. I have 3 and they can't be beat considering price/performance. The oldest one (8_9 years old) has only needed brushes once and no other repair. Many miles on it and left outside on Jobs overnight plenty of times
I have one of those bad boys too....good saw but that cord gets me everytime
Love Makita cordless tools and like the 2 battery platform don’t like being out of batteries and the last one charged for my impact driver is a 12 ah car battery ! Just like the versatility of the smaller batteries 2 smaller batteries cost 160.00 for twin pack one large battery is around 250.00
Which saws have a depth cut garage. I need a saw that can cut a 2 inch deep trench or mortise into a 4x4 inch wooden beam. Will this do the job.? Thanks.
I just fit the metabo 12in with the handle on top of blade. Easy for both lefty and righty’s
Dewalt is the only miter saw to own. Versatile,durable,and user friendly. I used them all an hands down the best.
I've used the 7 1/4" a few times & I really like it & want one but I got a 12" electric & a 10" cordless, what I don't have is a pile of money.
yes....if only piles of money where everywhere
mmmmmm.... piles of money
I totally agree. I can see many benefits to having the 7-1/4. I’d probably use it more than any other in fact, but since I have the Makita 10in and a Dewalt 12in, I just can’t justify buying yet another. The Makita travels fairly well anyway.
Love my dewalt 12 inch!
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
@@davidmuresan628 Link? I'd like to take a look at this contraption.
Yeah its a little sketchy it didn't make this list.
RR gracias por darnos de tu tiempo mostrar tu excelente trabajo soy de puerto rico y estoy en construcción de mi casa me ayudado mucho con los equipos gue comparar y más flexible para las áreas gracias no me pierdo nada de tus trabajos bien echo con elegancia muchas bendiciones..
What a role model this guy is.
Hi, makita a good tool for you? I'm undecided between makita and ls1219 and kapex120.
Sold my Milwaukee to upgrade to the Dewalt 12". I loved how light the Milwaukee was but I needed the ability to cut 4x4 material on site without flipping. Now, with the 120v power I would never go back to the 18v. That being said... if someone would release a lightweight 10" saw that can crush fine and rough cuts I'll buy it immediately!
i guess im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Ibrahim Watson instablaster :)
@Antonio Tadeo i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Antonio Tadeo it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Ibrahim Watson no problem =)
Wish you could have cut a board with each saw. I could have watched the speed of the cut and listened to the motor’s power.
I looking for a mitre saw right now. This is great!
I like that Mikita. 1 down side that gives ppl some issues is the way the bevel adjustment works. You don’t hit a switch that allowed the bevel to move. The knob actually loosens the entire saw from the base. So if that bevel adj knob isn’t super tight, the entire top of the saw isn’t tight, and your angles and deflection are super bad.
How important do you think "out of the box" alignment really is? I feel like if you need finish carpentry level precision, you're routinely checking and adjusting alignment anyway.
Totally agree
My opinion (from a hobbyist who uses the saw mostly for framing) is the saw should come out of the box with all the detents aligned and accurate (90 22.5 and 45). The top bevel not so much but the scale should be accurate. With all the QC and automated assembly a jig to make sure the alignment is within a tenth of a degree or so should be no problem. I realize it will have to be checked periodically to make sure it is correct but it should be right from the start.
I think it's important insomuch as it speaks to the build quality of the rest of the saw. If the alignment from the factory is sloppy, where presumably trained workers are putting the saw together, it either means the saw is built to low standards or the employees aren't doing their jobs, and neither of those is very reassuring.
The problem, though, is all of these name brand saws are mass produced in vaguely the same price brackets (excluding something like the Kapex), so there's not a lot of wiggle room for one to be absolutely head and shoulders above the others. Also, they are routinely handled by shippers that couldn't care less, so I bet a significant percentage are damaged before they ever get turned on, making it even harder to assess initial quality.
Be good to hear about table saws too
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
@@davidmuresan628 its un practical on a jobsite do to its size
a 4 ft is easy to transport and you can cut lumber and plywood. If you wish I will give you one 4" for free.
Love my cordless Makita. I do fine trim work and cabinetry and it's dead on.
Same. Especially with the Bluetooth and makita cordless vac I can pretty much set up anywhere and be virtually dust free. I rotate 4-5 80t and 90t Freud blades and I can cut prefinished crown with no problem.
I can’t wait to get the upcoming 12” cordless Makita is releasing. All about precision for me.
Which do you think is better dewalt or makita ?
Love my 10" Dewalt. Wouldn't trade it for the world. Most of the time I don't need a slider, and when i'm cutting trim I don't want that slop that the sliders give. 1-2* out makes even a miter on 3" base look like shit.
I use a 12in dewalt slider im a finish carpenter. Never had an issue with miter cuts I did 7in crown recently and miters were great
I got a 8 and half inch corded hitachi I use it for everything smaller blades are more accurate
I bought the makita 2 years ago, great saw. It is big and heavy so you have to need it on a job to haul it there. It is so accurate!
I have a question could you tell me Makita miter saw is better than Dewalt Dws780
The Milwaukee is not that accurate for trim and fine carpentry, I tried to adjust it for hours to get perfect cuts and it was pointless so I ended up returning it!
Until this day I'm still using my Bosch CM8S with a laser blade installed. Haven't found an accurate small miter saw that could replace it yet.
An honest red china review. Go figure.
Finish carpenter by trade. I use the Milwaukee ten inch and have done a lot of nice work with it. My main gripe with it is that the sawdust gets blown over the bevel mechanism and clogs it so you have to silicone the bevel mechanism regularly. The Makita is a beautiful saw but I was invested in Milwaukee and it works well for me
I love my makita. Im also a finish carpenter. Main problem is the detents get hammered out.
The Makita's a beauty, but it's also expensive and relatively heavy compared to most other 10" saws..
they all look unused
Diablo makes a find blade. But when I was building a house 30 years ago, I bought a 10" Delta Miter box. (the compound cut saws weren't out yet). A friend of mine that had a cabinet shop said I should get an AMANA blade. So he ordered one for me. I paid more for the blade than I did the saw. IN the long run, it was worth it. I've only built a couple of houses with it but I've loaned it out as well. The cuts were precise and clean. I could cut off oak hand rail with the waste cut being paper thin and uniform. So thin that it rolled up as I cut. I could unroll and look through the piece. I've never sharpened it. Problem is, I now have a 12" compound slide DeWalt.
I'm not sure if you know this or not but the fence is a floating fence to pick up extra degrees on your 7 1/4 Milwaukee that's what the notches on your left hand side when you're facing the saw is for on the bottom of the deck
No it's not necessarily easy to adjust it but if you adjusted for up to X then modify
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
I have the same problem with dust collection on my Makita. It's like if you don't buy the exact Makita attachments nothing will work and that's the only big problem. I've had to fine tune the adjustments a couple of time to get back into square cuts, but besides that this saw has been amazing everything I need. I can bring it on job sites all the time with me for cabinet work and trim work. It does all my matters and all my cuts very well and very smooth. Like you said it just feels good in the cuts are smooth and it has a great brake
OUTSTANDING
I HAVE BOTH MIKITA AND THE 7 1/4.
I LOVE THEM BOTH
I got the Makita recently and had to do a heap of adjusting on it. It feels really nice to use but needed a lot of work to be usable unfortunately which took the shine off it.
Had the same issue with the 12" I got 6 months ago. Bevel lock was dragging when it was rotated and the fence was a little out of square. Besides it being really heavy it makes the accurate cuts I need.
Makita crosscut blades are phenomenal.
I have an old corded Ryobi 10 inch miter saw on a portable table for rough cuts.
Second is a Rigid / AEG 7 1/14 inch sliding miter saw I surprised myself with how much I use, and last the 10 inch cordless Makita you show. That because of it's accuracy and the dual battery deal, which I can use with my other cordless Makita tools. Seems somewhat similar to your setup.
Excellent review. I appreciate the use case comparisons.
The Makita saw is on sale at home depot with 2 batteries for 529$,sounds like a good deal?
Finishing up a job rn, thinking about buying it when I'm paid! I'm using a 20yr old Delta. haha. :/ Now just trying to decide on the stand...
Don't forget to add the 2 pack 5.0ah as well, it's free. So with the makita , you get 4 5.0ah batteries
@@davidv9546 I haven't seen that bonus deal here in Las Vegas. I bought a chainsaw for 400 $and got 4 batteries, very good deal.
I have a 12 and 10 inch. I bought a 7 1/4 for small jobs where I only need a few cuts because of the weight. I honestly find myself grabbing it More now then any other saw.
And what do you cut and make with Mitre saws.
Super review i like a lot great insight !
Great job.
Do you know any Miter Saw model for left handed ? Or Ambidextrus ?
i think the milwaukee is close
Fe$$$tool
Love your honest opinions mate
Thanks for the info Kyle! 👍🏻👊🏻
Great video
this is realy good information. For the moment i'm using a cheap miter saw. All my other tools are makita. I'm planning to buy a new mitersaw but i don't know wich one to buy
thanks buddy great info but yes do yourself a favor change blade to Diablo for your house finish work
Great video thanks, my take away from this is how much flex is in that cut hub table. As you were pushing that metabo saw around the table was all over the place
Just purchased one of those makita saws.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but your complaint about the dust collection hose... in other videos, it shows the vacuum attaching at the bottom section. It looks as if you may have it upside down 👍
Gotta put some diablos on those bad boys. You’ll have even better run time!
i totally agree
I have the Makita, the factory Makita blade is IMO the better blade, I would bet that with the corded Makita, the Diablo blade would be better.
Blade does make a big difference
I dont use the same saw for framing as I do for trim work. Dont think it makes much sense to do so
Nearly 200k subs , Ive been here from the start , great content Kyle
ive never had a truly precise shawdowline it always shows shy of the blade. aka my blade always overcuts. on my makita the blade always begins where the lazer ends
What is the max dimensions for the 7 inches saw? Could it cut a 2 by 6 easy?
Awesome stuff bro. Subscribed! Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺
Great review i like
Anyone know what the sale price is for the 7-14" Milwaukee Miter?
Link in my description
Anywhere hearing anything about the new makita? Same saw basically but its a 12 inch. Looking at getting one but everyone's reviewing the 10s and i cant find any reviews on the 12 inch saw
I ran that makita blade for a year. Makita makes a great blade. Dont buy box store diablo. Buy the commercial one. I just run a 40 $ makita and love it for fine carpentry.
Makita has a new saw great for punch list.
Nothing beats the hercules from harbor freight... I use it every week for finished carpentry work
I have the DeWalt 12" flex volt mitre saw and it's hands down the best mitre saw that I've ever used. It's made even better with the 12ah flex volt batteries which granted cost a pretty penny each but they are worth it and I have the option of plugging it in to Mains power when I have access to it. 👍🙂
I Love my makita the only other maybe would be Bosch but the cordless makita has been dead on, plenty of power put it on Bosch stand no cords love it !
I want to hear about hammer drills
I have the 7.5" Makita sliding miter 36v. It is great for punch list things, shelving jobs (cuts 12") and carpentry tasks that dont require cutting tall stock. It is super light (27lb?). I don't really understand the mention on this video and others of not liking two batteries. It has never been an issue for me. My circular saw and track saw also use two.
Replace the stock blade with a Diablo?
Lol. No.
Try CMT my dude
Do you guys only build wooden frames or do you do metal frames too
Honestly I learned to love the 10 inch especially when I use a different saw what do you not like about it
Way too sloppy
@@RRBuildings on what cuts tho? I notice a Lil deflection in flat miter cuts but vertical cuts come out almost perfect
I used my 71/4 deawalt 20v I just put a 60 v and run for long time.. also it’s very accurate., I used everyday easy to move around
Great video!
For someone earning a living, probably some good information. For someone that just wants to repair a deck, or such type work, eh. I just bought an Admiral, yes, HF, but it's going to live it's life in my garage, cutting hardwood four by four into lengths for my lathe. No need for precision I won't use, and if my experience with power tools is correct, won't last before the slop in the mechanisms begin to show. Then you're just as well off with a Chicago Electric and it's a hell of a lot cheaper. If it lasts the ninety days, then the chances are you'll quit before it does. I wouldn't use it in all day every day use, but for most people, the big buck saws are not necessary. Precision cuts are why they make good table saws.
For your building videos I think it would be cool to add pricing for some of the builds both profesinally and DIY. Thanks love the building videos
Before even watching I already know Makita is the best
The problem with lasers other than calibration is you sometimes cut the wrong side of the line on a shadow you can't make this mistake
Personally I really dislike the horizontal handles. Ergonomically they're a bad design. The motion puts too much pressure on the back of the wrist. Much prefer a vertical handle, which also makes them perfectly usable for lefties.
good call
I had the same first impression of the 10” Milwaukee, I changed the blade to a 60t Diablo, and I’d say, now it’s on par with my Bosch 12” knuckle slider as far as cut quality goes. Bought it to do minor punch list stuff and framing, and now it’s pretty much all I use cause I’m really starting to hate bringing corded tools out on jobs.
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I like the Dewalt 12” FlexVolt sliding miter; it can run for a long time on 2 - 60V batteries or off 120V AC with the adapter. We can run all day with 2 batteries throwing them on the charger during lunch. I also like the Dewalt 20V 7-1/4” sliding miter. We run Dewalt 20V/60V exclusively does we tend to stick to that. I do like Mikita 2 - 18V systems and with Dewalt went that way instead of 60V though the 60V working in 20V tools is nice. Milwaukee is nice to have a full size single battery 18V saw though; wish Dewalt made a 10” single battery saw. I was Mikita back in the day, then went to Milwaukee, Porter Cable, then Dewalt. All top 3 are mostly equal with a benefit/deficiency hear or there just pick a battery system and stick to it as they are the most costly thing to run all day efficiently. With battery adapters coming for most brands all things are opening up.
Dewalt saws are king, absolute period. Dewalt 12 is the only saw to consider no matter for trim or framing. Why you need a miter saw for framing is at best just a luxury. Unfortunately you own at least 3 POS saws. On a good note, your work is high quality. You have it down to a science.