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I have a 2020 cx5 touring and it's loud af. To the point that even when you have music on fairly loud you can still hear the outside. Whoever said mazda was quiet must've driven only 1 car.

Debating on getting this or the RAV4. Only thing that turns me off is the cargo space and MPG.

does cda improve fuel economy?

Battery status is “Not Ready” It shouldn’t be going into cylinder deactivation. So something is going on.

There is nothing wrong with cx5 I dont get why complains. Its a great vehicle and reliable its very nice car . If you dont like it get a rav4 or crv they are very pricey to fix toyota and honda dealers they charge a lot even for the little fix.

they are still making these cars...how can parts/transmisions not be available....

Our 2024 doesn't have CDA or i-stop. It was manufactured March of 2024. They said they stopped putting both in the Cx-5's around October/November 2023 due to parts shortages. Maybe so, but I can't help but believe they realized there was a problem with it.🤷 I'm really glad they're not there. That's one reason I bought this particular year model and build date.👍

I've got the 2019 grand touring reserve turbocharger, YES I was on a 200 mile ride and in open roads going 75 mph had 50 mph cross winds and it was screaming in my car for 15 minutes, it was the second time i drove the car, but good ever since, strong cross winds NOT GOOD MAZDA.

I was forced to sell my 2017 CX-5 because after 7 years of ownership and immaculate maintenance (both, in and out), at 120,000 KM the rear diff packed it in. First and last Mazda for sure. The only redeeming part of this whole nightmare is that I was able to trade it in for a different make vehicle but the dealership is owned by the same conglomerate as the one where I got my Mazda from. When their mechanics took it for a test drive, they failed to hear the rumble coming from the rear diff and due to the "immaculate condition of my car", they gave me top dollar.

I have a CX3 and it's moody, but overall drives great. One day it's driving smooth, the other day a bit jerky, one day faster and eager, the other a bit sluggish. It depends on your speed, gas quality, tires, if you have the AC on, wind gust, driving habits will also change the built in algorithm response, how you press the gas pedal, the temperature outside, if you have Turbo, have sports mode on, driving on flat vs hilly roads, etc. So I assume the jerkiness might be due to the timing belt slightly slacking or slipping from cylider deactivation or it could be just software needs update

Own a 2023, mine does it along with a jerky trans unless you're really gentle on throttle. Mines also starting to have lifter tap on cold starts which I recently found out is a problem dating back to at least 2018. This was my first Mazda after having it be bragged up to me by friends & coworkers, seriously thinking on trading it.

Finally....Someone discussing the auto start stop function on a car.

Co-Pilot AI states that CX-5 trims equipped with a turbo do not include the cylinder deactivation feature. So name your poison, I guess. You can still get a Toyota RAV4 without a CVT and without cylinder deactivation. It does, however, include automatic start-stop (which can be turned off after starting the vehicle).

Honda and GM both have infamously tried cylinder deactivation. Neither brands have perfected the technology and long term durability is definitely of question. Any system that interrupts normal combustion, besides causing an imbalance can lead to uneven wear and lubrication issues. One of my favorite CZcams channels is "I do cars" where a mechanic tears down destroyed engines and he has had some pretty glorious destroyed six cylinder Honda engines that had this horrendous feature, and it is obvious which cylinders get deactivated... but maybe Mazda's system is different, better? I also question Mazda's use of direct fuel injection instead of the more reliable port fuel injection, because of the increased carbon buildup in intake valves leading to more expensive servicing down the line, negating any fuel savings and performance advantages.

Glad that my 2022 CX-30 doesn't have CDA or Stop/Start (iStop). Those are deal breakers for me in a vehicle purchase, & that sort of problematic engine tech is only around due to fuel economy regulations pushing automakers into hit certain average MPG numbers. The end-customer pays the price, however.

I'm beginning to think you lost your marbles. After 2021 there is no issues with cilinder deactivation. I have 2022 mazda cx5 with 30,000 miles ! No issues. Maybe you fart when you get that jolt.😊

I have a 2024 CX five GX, which is the lowest trim level here in Canada Is manufactured in September 2023 I bought it because according to the Mazda Canads website, the two lower trim levels did not have cylinder deactivation or I stop But I found out once it came in, it did have both of them. Idiots! Since I paid a nonrefundable deposit? I was stuck with it. I detest them both! It’s really a pain in the butt to have to keep turning off I stop every time I turn on the car, because every mechanic worth his salt has said that a it is really hard on the engine in the long run As well, just like you ,every time, the CDA kicks in or out, I feel like the engine is faltering, slightly, like you said, or missing I usually only notice it when I’m going between 70 and 80 km an hour over a long flat stretch I’m going to try just using the car in manual mode and see if it does the same thing I’m hoping that perhaps CDA is bypassed in manual mode but I guess I’ll find out

Just wondering, if running your car in manual mode, bypasses CDA

Y didnt you buy honda or toyota?

Nice video

Man, watching your videos requires extra patience. Lots of blah, blah, blah......🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️🫣

Why not demand a new car with lemon laws? New trans after 400 miles, I wouldn't want that car back.

*Does the sport mode cancel CDA? -Does running the A/C cancel CDA? Is it true Cx5 2024's built after Nov. '23 do not have i-stop or CDA?*

My 2021 is jerky, particularly when accelerating at very low speed. Sometimes it’s a hard jolt. I took it back to the dealership and they said I needed a new transmission (at 68,000 miles). They replaced the transmission, and it’s still doing the exact same thing.

If I didn't already own a 23 Mazda , i would be afraid to buy one after watching your experiences over the year. (Knock on wood. No issues at 6k miles).

As an Eastern European where some roads are scandalously bad in some areas I chuckle when I hear small potholes and some uneveness being referred to as a poorly maintained road. I’d gladly buy a used car driven exclusively over those types of surfaces. Insightful video though.

wow

Omg thank you for posting this - moved into a new apartment and our dishwasher is not cleaning right. Have little black bits all over our stuff. Going to clean it tomorrow thanks to your guys video. Thank you!! ☺️

my 2015 Mazda Cx5 has 150k and in the first drive of the day ( cold ), it loves to hurry u and get into 3rd gear.. jumpy.. its good for the rest of the day after its first drive.. smooth. I won't buy a cx5 after 2019 as I don't want a skyactiv-G with the cylinder deactivate. They were finding cracks in the engine block.

Is taking out the air in the brake system a common fix? This was literally the only reason I didn’t buy it because I didn’t feel confident in braking.

any concerns with carbon build up on intake valves due to gasoline direct injection?

Mine came with no battery 1 star rating and thats being nice

OMG, don’t worry about i-stop, how about you stop…..complaining. Get rid of the car already. I have a Mazda 6 with i-stop, which worked exactly as it said on the packet up until I figured out how to permanently disable it (manually relocating the bonnet switch). It doesn’t sound like Mazdas are for you.

You can disable it permanently, there is a switch on the hood latch that you can unplug, and there are plenty of videos on CZcams on how to do this, otherwise, there are modules from overseas that you can buy...

Bought a 2024 mazda 3 at 5700 miles, transmission failure.

You probably can’t drive.

So you’re saying to use higher than 87 octane to get better gas mileage and better running engine

I have the 900M1 model, but the battery connect instructions should be the same. You demonstrate the difficulty of pushing the connect all the way in until it's flush (4:49). I can't get mine in that far. I've pushed as hard as I can, but I'm afraid to use tools (hammer?). I've seen comments on other videos where users say the same. It seems to work, but I don't like that the bottom isn't flush. Unfortunately, APCs outdated six-year-old videos don't show this kind of connect (not your fault, of course). I'm just going to use it NOT pushed all the way in, but APC needs to update their videos. Thanks for showing what APC fails to show.

TCM are about 200.00 new it’s not expensive but, if you had a 2012 Mazda 3 you can just buy a TCM and it takes on 30mins to install but if they gave you a new transmission that’s good

looks to me like it isn't even cutting anything. Am I the only one?

They should give you a new car!

I have a 2024 CX-5 S Premiun with 764 miles. So far, there are no issues. My wife has 2018 CX-5 with 52,000 miles on it with no issues. Hope all works out for you.

Do you think it will be more comfortable on the road if switching to 17" wheels?

String won't feed

Got the 24 in the lowest trim select & it's great. Comfy seats, very quiet, rides pretty smooth, so I'm a happy camper 😊

Have a 2023 non turbo but runs great. No wind noises or bumb discomfort. Very comfy and great looking car

Does Mazda transmission have issues, I was looking at getting a cx50 2024 non turbo

Those arent the top tier seats though I believe which are Nappa brown leather..?

The rim and tyres make a difference, I intentionally chose the non sporty boring 17 inch with 225/65/R17 (AU spec) for better ride quality since I already have a sports car, worked out pretty well. Also it'll be cheaper to replace 😅

The ones you think are genuine may be counterfeit. Sad world we have come to