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I watch many restoration videos as I am in a similar business. I was so impressed with your Seized Drill Press Video. The part that impressed me the most was when you needed to make a new bolt. You said " I don't have a lathe", and you made it anyway. Believe me, it takes a lot more talent to improvise than to use a fancy piece of equipment. WAY TO GO!!!

I'm restoring an almost identical model from Rexon and though my focus is on the quill and spindle, I want to get a sense of how to determine if the motor bearings require change too. Any advice you can offer? :)

Probably runs at least as good as if not better than new. Lot of the time the assembly is rushed and things are not lubed and fit up like they should be. Can't believe the windings weren't burnt after getting hot enough to melt the fan that badly. Usually if you let that much smoke out of a motor you need to have it refilled.

Please provide the bearing size and abs ring size, i have the same car and same rear wheel bearing and abs issue.

-- Constructive criticism again... I've mentioned this before on one of your other videos but I'll mention it again. You've got to use anti-seize on your threads lad! Trust me when I say that someday you'll thank yourself because if you keep this equipment long enough, you'll undoubtedly be disassembling it again - at least partially. Disassembling items that were assembled with anti-seize on the threads of bolts and screws are a snap when it comes to taking them apart. It's like night and day. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

- I was wondering about the free play on the moving jaw. Was there a lot of slop on the guide pin and on the lead screw? It seems to me that when this vise was new there would have been little to no side to side movement but I'll admit I could be wrong. Still, logic dictates that a jeweler's vise would be more precise? 🤔 - Max Giganteum

-- Some constructive criticism... no matter what the threads are, you should always use anti-seize on all threads which apply a clamping force (in other words when you're bolting or screwing things together). In the case of this vise with the lead screw, the lead screw thread should have a heavy bearing grease which if I recall correctly, you applied so good job there. Believe me when I say this, you or someone else will thank you someday for using anti-seize. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

-- Regarding the overall restoration of the chuck... I noticed that you went about polishing the exterior of the parts of the chuck as it is assembled. While it looks nice, the problem with this is that there's no protection there to keep the exposed parts from rusting/corroding in the future. I'll make a suggestion here. One of the things you can do to protect the parts is to use the gun bluing method just like you would to protect firearms. Another method is to engage in homebrew plating and nickel plate those parts which is a far more permanent solution when it comes to rust protection. The cheap and easy of the two is gun bluing. The slightly more expensive and difficult is nickel plating but it can be done at home. The trick is to set up a small homebrew plating system and learning how to do it. The good news is... is that if you are a bit of a scavenger and are somewhat crafty then homebrew plating doesn't need to be expensive or costly at all. Depending on the size of the parts that you would plate, you can make small plating tanks out of repurposed plastic containers such as a milk jug or the jug from laundry detergent. You can scavenge power supplies and/or other electronics parts from all sorts of electrically powered items like an obsolete computer or computer monitor or other items such as old scrap televisions, radios, microwaves, etc. The great thing about nickel plating is that if you do it correctly then you've got a permanent protection against rust as long as the plated layer holds up which is often indefinite. For those not familiar with the process, the plated layer is as thick as you choose but basic protection only requires a layer of .0003-.0004 in thickness but .0005-.0015 is common. For those that polish the nickel, a layer of.003-.005 is normal. An unpolished nickel layer already has a bright sheen to it thus a lot of folks regard it has being acceptable without polishing. Anyway, those are some things to think about. You can look on CZcams and find a wide variety of video footage for both gun bluing as well as home nickel plating. Allow me to encourage you to look into those things for future usage. Peace & good vibes! - Max Giganteum

At approximately 10:50 into the video, the label is peeled off. Here's a tip for those in the future: if you apply heat carefully, those labels will come right off easily. I found that there are two methods that are fairly effective at removing the label without damaging it. One is to apply heat with a torch to the back side on the metal where the label is but you have to be super careful to not get it too hot and burn the adhesive or the label. The other method is to boil water and put a sacrificial rag in it so it's very hot. Remove the rag and place it over the top of the label and that will soften up the adhesive so that the label comes right off. The hot rag in boiling water method is far less likely to cause any damage to the label just as a heads up. Note that you do not wish to apply a wet rag to a paper label, only use it on one of the aluminized labels. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

Can I ask for a photo of the speed plate and what kind of stripes you used?

Looks like latge amounts of metal being filed and sanded away ???

Beautiful job well done

درود . اگه این ایده از خودت بود دمت گرم واگه کپی بود برای اینکه به اشتراک گذاشتی بازم دمت گرم .

Great video. I'm in the process of refurbishing my floor standing drill press. I have a question on the table lift mechanism/worm gear crank. The spur gear driven by the worm gear sits on an axle pin and float on it within the housing and can float about 7mm side to side in my unit and it appears to be the same on the unit you restored shown at about the 14:51 mark in the video. Is this the way it should be? Seems like there should be collars on either side to keep the spur gear centered on the shaft?

Amazing video! Was going to do mine, until I saw the press that you needed...

How to know the size of that thing?

The on,y paint strippers I know is for my scale modelling but there good you could try this one VMS CLEAN SLATE 3.0 ULTRA 200 ml paint stripper for scale models it doesn’t damage the plastic and most of paint is airbrushed on wouldn’t hurt to try just a thought steve 👨🏼‍🦽

Use a vice to restore a vice. Classy job! Excellent work. The cirle of life.

Hi, just wondering whether you have a link of Amazon or any UK site for a replacement carburetor for this model. Absolutely impossible to find one for this model. Thanks a million!

Nambar please

12 एम एम टेपिंग मशिन रिपेयरिंग करना बताओ

Good job mash'Allah

it looked so much nicer before you ruined it

Hi, great video but the link you posted for the Carb repair kit is no longer working. Could you post its name please?

Excellent restoration, your lathe machining is not bad either.

I had the same fan issue on my vintage Craftsman radial arm saw! I am not looking forward to repairing that motor!

A job like this is so simple, and the bearing is cheap. It just kills me what a shop will charge for this; basically one hour or so and anyone can do it themselves. Thank you for providing the torque specs. Well edited and no fluff. Cheers.

It didnt look as if you greased the bearings.

Good to see you back buddy.

Super!

Another stunning resto.job, inspires me to do my old vice.. keep up the great.vids 👍

Hola que tal quisiera saber que marca es esa agujeriadora quien las fabrica por favor si tiene esa información desde ya agradecido señor

This press has worked like a charm for my projects czcams.com/users/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!

I love this restoration! I am in the process of restoring some of my gramps engineering tools that I was lucky enough to inherit and a nippy vice is one of them. I struggled so hard separating the jaw from the threaded bar, in the end I heated it up until it almost glowed which done the trick, it was a last resort as I was petrified of bending the bar! Mine too has the makers mark on the jaw as well. Great work all the best Ryan

I see , I will cry's

Tools easy to over heat , and dust 's get in to the motor wheels.....

I'm just starting a restoration of an apparently identical drill, branded Clarke. Come to a stop because I can't get the nut on the top of the spindle drive to undo. It rotates but it looks as if the threads under the nut have stripped. May have to cut the nut but that will leave me with a spindle with stripped threads. 😞 Also the quill only goes down about 50mm before coming to a hard stop. (The depth stop on the quill appears to be free.) I was not keen on disassembling the spring cap but I guess you have showed me a way to stay safe!

What is it with drill press restoration videos and no tutorials?

BRILLIANT ! I have 3 of these exact drills, all from Car Boot sales, for a few pounds. They all work well and are so handy to have around with multiple attachments when doing work, needing more than one attachment. I think I'm going to give one the same treatment as you did - it looks FABULOUS ! Thanks for the 'tutorial', and I'm now a sub too. Thanks and take care 🙂

Excellent aesthetic restoration! Really nice. I like the Hammerite silver finish.

Thought it looked great in the thumbnail, then realised it was the ‘before’ picture and you ruined it.

my pops had the same one great bit of kit

Great job!

Its good to see you back mate and hopefully youll keep up the great content as before 👍

Kkkk aqui no Rio nos falamos assim i o cara engoliu barriga !!!!!

I really enjoyed your video it was very informative ,what I would to ask is was there a kit that you purchased to replace the bearings and battery or did you purchase them separately and if so where did you purchase them from ????? Great Video all the same keep up the good work.

👍👍👏👏👏👏☘️

How apposite. I'm about 1/2 way through doing the exact same thing on an old Meddings 5 speed bench pillar drill donated to me by a late friend before he died. Same as you I use Citric acid for derusting stuff but I do everything I can using different sized polythene/ABS plastic storage boxes with the biggest I've used so far being a 50 litre box. I have used a 100 litre plastic drum though previously to electrolyse rust off a tow bar ... Worked a treat! Mine has no base, only a VERY substantial bottom collar. No table or rack/pinion lift and no motor. The latter has been resolved with a very nice 3/4 HP 3 phase motor that I acquired ages back for about £20 ... It's like new! I've bought a new 5 HP capable VFD that will drive it so bags of spare capacity so should run nice & cool. I have the main body all stripped down including removing the aluminium label and brass serial plate held on by spiral rivets! Ready and waiting for paint stripping. I use the same recipe for paint stripper as you ... Caustic soda, wallpaper paste and water ... Sadly I had to use Nitromors on the motor end caps of my lathe motor that I'm also refurbishing as they are aluminium! *CAUTION* to those unaware, concentrated liquid caustic soda is dangerous and will eat through human flesh AND aluminium and casting alloy faster than you can blink!! DO NOT USE IT ON OR NEAR ANY ALUMINIUM PARTS! Wear protective gear, especially face and hand protection. Keep white vinegar and/or citric acid handy to neutralise the alkali. Great job you did on that. I hope my final result is as good! 👍👍👍

I have a big old drill press it weighs about 50kg but I don’t have the time or patience or strength these days to do what you have done with your beautiful restoration though it desperately needs one but after watching your video you have given me motivation to do something about it,,, thanks for sharing Scott