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@@JosephSmith-dh7iq yes I do believe so, it would be a brown wire running up your frame on the driver side to your cluster 0-90 ohm. If you are unsure yet you can always cut the wires and turn the key and see if it remains in the same spot, you can also siphon out 5 gal and make sure the reading drops to be positive before removing everything 👍 it's been a long time since I've done it but I think you'll be good

It's holding up pretty good in my opinion, it did chip In a couple spots when I was making a run to the scrap yard and slid a sharp corner across but overall I'm impressed by it. It's all in the prep work

It was headed to the junkyard and I saved it so your not wrong

I don't see why not

Your best bet is to send me a message on Facebook and we can chat back and forth that way. I really don't want to give out my number over CZcams

Ok well i am not on Facebook which I totally understand The problem that i have is my truck has idiot lights to and it also has AC it looks like some of those wires are going into the computor so im not sure what is going on there. I would like to just take the whole computor out of the the truck i am going to run the fuel pump on the block so i dont need the fuel pump in the tank which i have that part figure out the part i am not sure about is the AC which i want to keep. Thank you for getting back to me.@@pedaltothemetal3871

I had the edelbrock torker II intake with a holley 390 4 barrel

@@pedaltothemetal3871 Fuel injected

I bought it from a guy in Northfield MN who had all the leftover bits from the Denver mattress Nascar team. It was pricey but the real ones are hard to come by, otherwise Dr. Gas still sells bolt on tubes and DIY kits that sound similar since Dr gas made them for Nascar. Otherwise Stapleton 42 made a YT video 2 years ago on how to achieve an IROC Nascar sound just by having a tight X-pipe with straight pipe out the sides even tho they used oval pipe in circuit. Also Thecraig909 on YT made an example of the X-pipe and side exit to achieve the sound as well. Those are examples of what you can have an exhaust shop make, but you gotta remember that compression and rpm play a factor in how everything sounds too. I did the black widow x pipe with widowmaker 10's and it sounds real good in the upper rpm, another muffler to sound like a nascar would have to be spintech 6000 muffler with an x pipe. What are you putting it on? Stock or modified? Going for the boom tube look or the Nascar sound? Sorry this is so long it just gets me fired up!

@@pedaltothemetal3871 no worries, i’ve been fired up about it for a while. from what i’ve heard dr gas is out of business and i’ve seen craig909’s truck and stapletons videos on it, that’s mostly what got me thinking about them. i have a 4v in my 96 mustang and i’ve always wanted to hear one with boom tubes (there’s one video with them on a mach 1 but i don’t remember much about it). i have a black widow x and black widow neighborhaters on my 04 mustang and they sound really good (could use headers) but i don’t believe it would be the sound i’m really trying to achieve. since the 4v is known for upper rpm power, im trying to have a setup that really sounds like older nascar setups. i thought about running spintechs but id rather just build (or buy) my own boom tubes since it would be about the same price give or take

Awesome info man, yeah i found thecraig909 a while back and was floored at how simple his exhaust setup was 😂 i think im more of an h pipe gurgle typa guy but ill keep this in mind for a future high revving build one day...​@@pedaltothemetal3871

Love these types of comments, thank you

I went and used a autometer GPS speedometer. Couldn't figure out how to make the digital output trans with the cable cluster

If you want the speedo to work and you have a 700r4 you can get the electric unit off a 1992 model and but you have to swap the reluctor wheel ok the transmission, it's pressed on so you may have to swap output shafts to he honest

Thank you and no problem, if you run into any issues just reach out and I'll help out as much as I can

Thanks, I love the sound. Just wasn’t sure what size piping to run with my 327 , I was leaning towards 2.25” until I watched this.

What's your set up? I wanna hear it

@@pedaltothemetal3871 I have a junkyard flow master with a cutout…

@@pedaltothemetal3871you can hear mine on my channel. How do you like the 3500 trans? I have one but don’t know if I want to use it. Had one on a blazer and it was slow going from first to second…

@@chud327 1st seems really slow, I can lift off the clutch faster than usual at idle and it won't die out. Otherwise matched with a 3:42 gear in back I can push 2nd to about 40-45, I'm pretty happy with it so far. I have maybe 90 miles on the whole thing right now

Otherwise to me the 1-2 feels solid and pretty quick with the set up compared to a 4.3

Awesome story! Unfortunately I don't forsee this engine build going farther as I don't have anything to put it in. Although I do have another 65' small journal 327 that's stuck but in much better shape that another free spinning 283 could donate to. Would love to build a high rev motor but until I find the perfect donor it'll have to wait

I am unsure on that but you can check pretty quickly with a test light. I've never had a second gen to play with

Thank you, it took many many years just to get to this point

It's 3.5" oval tubing that has an h- pipe closer to the headers to a single exit out the passenger side or towards the crowd. I had an opportunity to get one that exits both sides but liked the racing history behind this one. It came from the #78 Denver Mattress Nascar and was actually used in races before getting retired to updated exhaust systems that can grab better data

@@pedaltothemetal3871 sounds great but why not an x-pipe

@James Jones I thought that was weird too, not sure exactly why but I know the 90's IROC cars had the tight x-pipe with 3.5" oval out the side without any boom tube. My s10 I made a tight x-pipe so I'm curious how thall sound in relation to this once I get it running

Thanks! I keep fighting all the little things that are left with it and the issues of it sitting for some time. Tonight I got it fired up and timed but then the front bowl flooded and fouled the plugs, so now that's gotta come back apart and get cleaned and inspected. Looking forward to your update!

@@mikepoint4717 Hey thanks! If you find a G80 code it's a limited slip unit, good luck and let me know how the build goes!

It ended up being the pressure plate, went from an HD towing clutch assembly to a centerforce racing clutch assembly and it fixed the issue

@@pedaltothemetal3871 idk why I'm just now seeing this. But thanks for the reply. Our truck has a LUK brand oem clutch assembly, which in the fine print happens to say it's a "HD Replacement". We ordered a LUK "Standard Duty" clutch assembly, new clutch fork and pivot ball stud. We're really hoping that gets us squared away. We have also replaced the master and slave cylinders recently. Didn't help..

Not at this time and it'll probably be a good while too, trying to work on getting a title as it was abandoned for the past 13 years. Until I get it in my name I really don't wanna put any money into it or progress on fixing it in case I can't