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It really depends. With squash, I very rarely tie off on a main - I will either use the short side for a couple of extra crosses at the top - to keep the last mains tensioned evenly (if so, will add an extra 10% and pull through any tension loss) or I will use an ATW pattern which doesn't require main string tie offs. One thing I would note is that, in squash, it's not always a bad thing to leave a little tension off at the top cross. This allows a kittle more cushioning for hits off the wall - less chance of string breakage at the head from shots close to the wall. Tennis though... always add minimum 10% - 20% on last mains/crosses before tie off. Much more tension loss and also no need to protect against wall shots (aside from the odd shank).

Thanks for getting back to me and this is very helpful. I Re String a lot of Racketball Rackets (mainly Head & Karakal Rackets), as Racketball is very popular at my club, hence why i use the two piece stringing method for these Racketball Rackets. Would you recommend adding 10% onto both main tension pulls before tying off on a Racketball Racket? Or just normal tension for the last main?

@@antonyharkin2010 on a two piece then yes, especially on the mains and when you have higher tension and a less dense string bed (compared to squash).

@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for clarifying!

Hi Rik, that's very kind of you to say. I think 305 and Biphase go well with it baby racket, but I suspect that Biphase 1.18 at around 22lbs will be amazing in this racket, as will 305 1.10 at about 24lbs (might not break as easily as in some frames due to the close string pattern). I'll have to test when I have chance!

Short side will finish crosses at the throat, yes.

Ok. Cool. So obviously you pulled enough to cover that. Thanks for the quick response!

@jamesr.cookejr.5168 yep, only a little extra though (so about 8 head lengths worth on the short side).

Perfect. Thanks again.

Would normally do this racket at 30lbs (smaller head, with denser string pattern than most RB rackets).

5lbs is a lot of extra. If 10 - 15lbs this could break the frame. Recommended 'extra' tension if you do use extra tension before tying off is 10% on squash rackets - so around 2.5lbs. Tennis you will sometimes go up to 20% (about 10lbs) as tennis frames are stronger. The dead feeling you get is likely because you've put too much tension through the string.

Yes, sound could be a little clearer. It's ok on most videos but could definitely improve on the sound. The short side is the side which has the shortest length of string use and is typically only for main strings on that side (and sometimes a few crosses). The other length of string does the mains on the other side plus the majority of the crosses. I generally measure 5 and a little bit full arm spans of string to be able to string a racket of this size. I'm 6ft 1 with long arms, so you may need to adjust. I measure with racket head lengths for the short side, plus a little extra and the rest of the string will be long enough to compete the rest. The reason for tying off at the throat first is due to having both clamps available for security. Always best to have two clamps in use in case one slips and to keep best tension. To tie off at the head first, you would need to use one of the clamps. Plus, it's more efficient to tie off at the throat first as you are already there. Hope that helps, Jon

​@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for the reply. One more question if you don't mind- Even after stringing your way, on a machine similar to your's (Wilson) the racket has come out narrower in width and taller by about 3mm compared to a factory strung racket. Is the factory using a different machine that might be clamping the racket from inside the frame widthwise, and does such a machine exist? To resolve the reduction in width, after tensioning the main strings, I am thinking of relaxing the top/bottom clamps, then relaxing the width clamp so the frame expands widthwise. Then on tensioning the cross strings the frame should revert to unstrung shape. This is how we used to string in the pre machine era 30-35 years back! I realize this may put the frame under uneven stress. Kindly advise if there is a better way, or should we just accept a minor change in shape? Also a tip- for Carboflex type rackets that have a finishing knot at the top for cross, there will be some release of tension in the last string when we finish the knot. This leads to a dead spot at the top, where a lot of shots are played from, especially on tight balls. This is also apparent in factory strung rackets. To resolve this, I increase the tension in the last string by about 10-15lbs (depending on how stiff or flexible a string I'm using). So the tension in the top string then becomes similar to the rest of the strings.

@@amitojsingh7899 Hi, the rackets at factories are very poor, stringing is done for speed only and often only every 2 or 3 strings may be tensioned. Don't adjust the posts when stringing rackets, aside from minor adjustments if the frame rattles in the posts too much. Rackets will always change shape when stringing. In terms of the last tie off. There is actually a reason for not adding additional tension, this is to slightly soften the impact point for wall shots and also helps to reduce breakages off mishits. Also, the head is generally a lot weaker than the throat area, so it's not always a good idea to add extra tension, as I would normally do with tennis rackets. Badminton employs the same tactics, with the top cross strings being reduced in tension rather than increased. I hope you don't increase tension by 10-15lbs. Do you mean %?

​@@stringdoctor6238is there any way of clamping the width from the inside?

Ok, noted. Thanks again.

Hi Antony, You can do 2 things. I count how many crosses there are and work out where the final cross will sit. I.e. pushing against the mains on the last cross. This will determine if I start the first cross under the first main or over. I also just do a quick 'over, under, over, under' count down the grommets to physical check.

So if it finishes going over the last main then you would start the first cross with an over? Make sense to me if that's correct? Thanks!

@antonyharkin2010 the last cross at the throat has to be suppressing the mains (so either pushing down or pulling up, as opposed to gliding through without resistance). Depending on how many crosses there are on a racket would determine whether you start under or over the first main. Power rings are the best rackets to trial this with.

Hi Peter, you can use 2 pieces if you like but the around the world 1 piece version is generally the best as it ensures totally accurate tension across the mains. If you do a 2 piece, just make sure you start the crosses always from the head in squash and tennis. It's only badminton where you would start the crosses from the throat and this is due to the head shape of a badminton racket.

Yep, PC used the regular pattern for a bit but has gone to the AFP. Definitely one of the more intricate ones!

Pretty much, yes. If the mains finish at the throat then certainly.

Thanks!

Thanks Antony. Let me know if there are any rackets you're keen to see on here and next time I get one in, I'll record!

I know on some of the older models and the Xenon variants there were some slight differences with grommet positioning, but the principles should be exactly the same. Just keep an eye on which grommets to skip at the head. Do a quick scan and make some notes before you go for it 👍

@@stringdoctor6238 4 questions: 1) can I use 1.20 gauge stringing it that way or does it need to be 1.10? 2) what tension does Paul have it set at? 3) does 305 fare well with this pattern? 4) do you see a better durability stringing it this way?

@squashduos1258 305 1.20mm will work well in the racket. Definitely helps with durability as the strings won't move as much. I don't generally share the tensions for the pros unfortunately, unless they've publicly stated it, but this setup works best under 25lbs in my opinion.

@@stringdoctor6238 I have a green reel of 1.10 305 but they don’t tend to last very long (my breaks are consistently good ie no close to frame break) I am a bit worried about asking for this pattern but let’s see if he can do it. I currently play with a 22.5 lbs set up.

@squashduos1258 1.10 will last longer in this pattern than in other patterns.

I strung a couple a few days ago and thought I should have recorded it. The are a few tricks. I do Yow's rackets when I see him, which have the same pattern (he just uses the older frame with his signature on).

Good question. It may be that your reel of string is defective or has been stored incorrectly in the warehouse or where you bought it from. It would also be worth checking your clamps to make sure they're not too loose (slipping grates the strings) or too tight (which will crimp it). Also, try using a tooth brush with some alcohol to clean the clamp teeth to ensure there's no string residue that could damage the string you're clamping. Your reel should have a white stick on it with some number. The last two digits are year of manufacture. It will look something like 123456/24 (24 meaning it's been made this year). If you've been sold a reel of string that's old, the chances of it being defective increase.

@@stringdoctor6238 Thanks! I'll have a look at the string and check when it was made. Also probably worth mentioning that i'm stringing on a brand new technifibre X-Cord so it would be unlikely that i have any issues with the clamps themselves. but it's worth checking out. Appreciate the advice!

@@SnoozingMoose no problem. Yes, unlikely to be the machine/clamps.

@@stringdoctor6238 I've had a look at the reel and it appears that it is from 2023. Not sure what this means for the string exactly but ill have a go with some other string from this year and see if it turns out differently

@@SnoozingMoose should be fine if 2023. Worth you speaking with whoever you bought it from.

Thanks Scott. Yes, essential that the mains are all tuned properly and this is a great way to ensure it. In tennis, something like 70- 80% of the playability comes from the mains, not sure it's quite that high in squash but it certainly shows the importance of getting them right.

UltraNick does look good in these rackets for sure

A lot of the time it's when the string slackens in the gap and gives the impression more than it is - I.e the clamp doesn't move as much as it may appear to. But generally more noticeable on mains.

Hi there, yes I've used a few Yonex machines. Yonex machines are excellent but tend to be very expensive for the top machines. All I can say is that this is a great machine. I'm going to be getting the new Tecnifibre X-Cord machine very soon too, which I'm looking forward to!

@stringdoctor6238 how does the yonex models compare to this? I need a fast machine that's reliable, would u say that this machine is comparable?

@@user-yx8vp7oh4m the Wilson machines are probably the most reliable in the business.

@stringdoctor6238 thank you, I'll buy it and try. I appreciate your help

Can be done as a one piece (comes from factory as one piece) but generally all power ring style rackets should be strung as two piece for tension maintenance and a more even spread as the tension creep from one piece isn't great on these type of rackets. Prince actually void warranties on their power ring rackets if not strung as a two piece.

@@stringdoctor6238 what would you think about doing the mains in a powerful string like TF VP for max power and then the crosses in a rougher string to cut the ball , say an ashaway unltranick? Would a rough string and a smooth string set up work do you think?

@@chrisport5549 personally I would say to keep it simple. Racketball is generally hit a bit flatter than squash and the difference will be marginal. Best overall string I use is Prince Duraflex (used on a couple of national champs rackets by me).

The 120 will be easier to manoeuvre but the 135 will give better control, especially at the front of the court. The 135 should have more power too as there is more weight in the head.

@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for your kind advice! will give 135SB a shot.

Hi, I cover it in the video, but in short, Head recommend 2 piece on this racket, especially in this format. If you didn't do a 2 piece then you would need to do a fancy ATW (around the world) pattern as the mains finish naturally at the throat area. I've done an ATW on this racket but it just adds further complexity to an already complicated pattern for the average stringer - you need to factor in hard weaves etc into the mix too. The 2 piece on this frame ensures you can absolutely get consistent tension.

Currently using Kirschbaum Gut Feeling - really nice multifilament string.

@@stringdoctor6238 that’s the white one right

@@hamzakholy7528 it's clear/natural

Hello, it is a different technique, they both start at the head but the first two main (vertical) strings cross at the throat and switch sides.

The most tricky part is definitely the first few mains with the cross over. That's pretty uniformed on the Radicals and the Xenon's. Enjoy!

This set up is all about control, but lowering the tension to, say, early 20's will give enough power.

@@stringdoctor6238 He still cracks the ball ey. I guess that could be due to the lower tension as mentioned as well as the technique. Thanks for the rapid feedback.

Glad you liked it. It's very intricate in the throat area.

Yep, positive. He likes the extra weight in the head (more stability).

@@stringdoctor6238 Thank you very much, friend.

It varies per model but don't worry too much as you should have tie off grommets even if not marked.

Good question Mike, the camera is on an arm clamped to the side arm of the machine about 2 foot above, so the camera is just wobbling a bit - defo not the machine. The Baiardo machines are rock solid thankfully - no play in the machine. And yes, wobbly machines are defo not good!

@@stringdoctor6238 thanks it’s just at 11:20 in this video he explains his issue with L version czcams.com/video/oAA0rnb7FSw/video.htmlsi=mvCLw7tUnG8tEMzk

@@stringdoctor6238 I'm considering acquiring this machine but am concerned due to some reviews pointing out instability at the base, particularly where the two parts responsible for height adjustment connect. Has this been true in your case?

@@miksem it's rock solid as far as I'm concerned and has adjusters at the bottom in case you have uneven floors. I've used most top machines and had the benefit of testing lots at tournaments I was stringing at before choosing this one. Less to go wrong with the L version over the full fat Baiardo.

@@stringdoctor6238 thanks, im currently using Alpha Ghost 2 for the past 5 years and extremely happy but it’s not available until June, but looks like I can get Wilson L for only 300-400$ more now. I’m confused in regards to Wiksons stop-break; in my case with alpha I can activate permanently function for auto lock table for each pull and it’s helps with stability also I can lock my table in any position by pressing separate lock button, this part only useful when doing Prince old O style grommets, do you mind explaining on how wilson handles those locks ? I know there is a lock under the table and looks like it’s manual pull but not sure, do I loose auto table lock option on each string pull compared to my alpha or not ? Thanks again

Hey there, I've not had any issues with this racket and I string a lot of the variants. Because the grooves are smooth inside (no sharp edges) it's fine. I have some national champions using the frame and haven't seen problems. I normally use a string like Prince Duraflex on these rackets which works well. Anywhere between 30 - 36lbs tension.

Just a bit of a showcase. A pretty complicated pattern to do and I had a little break to do something fun 🤩

Will try to speak up next time Bonkers. Or you can turn the hearing aids on next time 😉 hope you're good mate.

Dofferent strings have different characteristics. Tecnifibre and Adhaway always feel a bit different and sound different.

General rule of thumb is to slightly increase tension on a racket with a larger head as they naturally generate a little more power. But it does also depend on how dense the string pattern is. If very dense (smaller gaps between strings), then you might want to reduce the tension and vice versa if the string bed is less dense.

I normally get my bumper strips from W&D or through Tecnifibre

How many meters does the racket need?

I used just under 5.5 full armspans - so about 8.5 - 9 meters.

Glad you liked it 👌

Hey, sure thing. You just need to adapt it a little. So go an extra cross down before going up the last main (this should work well with the knots. You may need to enlarge the second to bottom grommet for the cross tie off though (you'll see what I mean when you get there).

How much string should i leave for a shortside?

@@SquashPlayerM just measure how many mains and how many crosses you need to do across the length of the racket head.

Yes, not much. I don't think I applied this. Just some fine tuning by the player 😉

He should still be able to string it, as long as he has 2 base or 2 flying clamps. He just needs to make sure he clamps after pulling tension.

@@stringdoctor6238 With the pattern he has seen he would have to pull four strings then pull tension to have two close enough to grab.

@@cplampe ok, I think I get you. I was thinking that he was having issues with the crosses and hidden comments. For the mains, if he's using flying clamps then, yes, he won't be able to use flying clamps on the mains, but could use a starting clamp to clamp on outside. For the last main string he'll be fine to clamp normally.

@@stringdoctor6238 Thank you for that advice. I will pass that along to him. I really appreciate it.

@cplampe it may still be difficult. There aren't too many rackets like this. Might be worth upgrading to a machine with base clamps. You should be able to sell the current model for fairly decent money.

It's almost as if some of the manufacturers think that strings will never break ;-)

I think it's 24V

@@stringdoctor6238 thank you for your quick respone.

Hey there. Easiest way to explain. I'm a about 6 Ft 1 with a long arm span. I measure just over 5 full arm spans of string plus a little extra as the total length needed. For the short side, I measure 7.25 full head lengths of string. Then the rest is for the long side. Hope that helps 👍