Video

The defeat was avoided by redundancy. There are 2 systems holding the sink in place, either of which can hold it up. If either one fails, the sink still stays in place, and it is unlikely both would fail at the same time.

While silicone won't have the holding power of epoxy, when it is spread over a surface area like a sink lip, it will hold well. The metal straps will give it added strength. Together, the silicone and straps should be at least as strong if not stronger than epoxy alone.

That's why I put the metal straps on it to make sure it would stay put.

Worth a try, maybe just 2 baffles instead of 3. I did the same thing with 2 baffles in a different place, it still worked and allowed air flow. Depends on how much noise I suppose.

@@thewrighthandyman8139 thank you, sir.

My pleasure, I went through the same thing for about 2 years until I stumbled across it

I disassembled the powerhead 2 or 3 times trying to figure it out. By chance I was holding the hose, twisted it and it cut out. It was dumb luck, but I'll take it.

That makes sense, thanks!

Unfortunately no, I had an online store last year which I have shut down.

Not running, but hot. The dipstick could be better, but I hear new vehicles don't even have them which concerns me.

I would suggest getting the trailer brake module tested. I had one get wrecked on me and it gave the same symptoms.

Good question, but I don't know which would hold better. I have limited experience with rivets, but based on that, I would use screws.

It's been a while, so I don't recall. However, any silicone will work fine, or gorilla glue.

A bit of both. The company I used sells the rails in 10ft pieces. The posts came at 80 inches. i had to cut the posts to 72 inches, install them and then cut the rails pieces to fit (custom). Once I had that done, I took the measurements and the glass was cut by them to fit. You can get pre-fab packages from Home Depot where everything is standard size, but this allows less room for error. You need to be more accurate with pre-fab, and sometimes the deck size doesn't really allow that.

@@thewrighthandyman8139 🤟

I used to, but I shut down the online store back in 2023.

I think it's a Bessey knockoff, it is a cheap one. 24" should be long enough, I think mine is 30" or 36"

I think it's only effective on seeps... at least that's my experience.

It did. Instead of getting 2-3 codes a day, I get one about every 6 months. I usually just unplug/replug the sensor connector, delete the code and it's all good.

Home Depot

Is it possible to bend the drip edge outwards so that it's bottom edge will drip into the gutter? I'm actually having a similar problem at a roof intersection location on my house. I keep getting a drip between the gutter and the fascia. I haven't been able to fix it yet.

@thewrighthandyman8139 I have agutter specialist coming this week. He says judging on the satellite view, the run is too long for a basic drip edge. He is saying he will have to install what is called a gutter guard to make it work properly.

@@MP57719 Interesting, I have never worked with anything like that. Let me know if it works.

@@thewrighthandyman8139 I am not a contractor nor know much about gutters but, I had a gutter company here yesterday and we talked about how we had a 36 foot long run and the drip edge is not in the gutter correctly leading to the downspout. He suggested possibly putting in another downspout or they could possibly rivet on a piece where the gutter is too low thus making an extension and get the water correctly into the gutter.

@@sony1998 Thanks for letting me know, I'm not a gutter expert either.

That might make the walls a little thick for the tub, especially once it is tiled. I would put the durarock right on the studs.

I believe it was a 10mm, but I don't remember as I made this video a couple of years ago.

My pleasure!

I believe I bought one, but it was a couple of years ago.

Tough question. It would depend on how the previous owner treated it. 130,000km is low for a 12 year old truck, but were they easy or hard miles. If the oil change interval was too long, the engine could be gummed up which leads to other problems. Ignoring that, some of the exhaust manifold bolts are probably broken, but this shouldn't be a deal breaker. Listen to it running, if you here a ticking (not the exhaust), then it could be a worn cam due to poor maintenance (the dreaded hemi tick - there are a lot of videos out there showing this). Have a mechanic inspect it, if all is well, I would say yes, buy it. The money spent on an inspection could save you thousands from a bad truck, or could show that it is a great deal. I have had very few problems with mine, but I am pretty good about maintenance. I still have the original suspension bushings etc (I have replaced the shocks). so they can last a long time.

I did a quick description of how the door knob jig worked at about 7:43, here I described how the tab on the jig fit into the strike plate to determine the position of the door knob. It was tight quarters in that area, so filming was difficult. The door can be routed on the edge to fit a plate for the latch, but it isn't necessary. When you buy any door knob kit, they usually come with a plate attached to the latch part. This can be removed (follow the instructions included in the kit), and a small round piece (included) can be attached to the latch. This way there is no routing on the door for the latch as the small round part fits into the hole that was drilled on the edge using the door knob jig (just hammer it in so it is nice and solid). You can see it at about 11:12. If you were just replacing the knob on an existing door, and the edge of the door had been routed, you can use the plate, or if not, you can use the round piece.

I always like to have some redundancy. I had another project where a lady had a kitchen sink only glued in, and it detached when full of water. I used the same method on that (granite counter), and it worked.

Glad it helped, best of luck!

I never considered putting a tube down the dipstick hole, good idea. I had recently heard that there is a kit to install a drain plug in the existing pan, but I am reluctant to do that in case it leaks or I ruin the pan. Buying a new pan is a much better solution, and the next time I change it (400,000km), I'll definitely look for an after market pan with a drain plug. I rotate Royal Purple engine oil through, I'll check it out for the transmission for next time. Thanks for the info, keep that truck running! 200,000 miles is great! I just topped 200,000 miles on mine.

@@thewrighthandyman8139 I found that pans with drain plugs that were manufactured to be there are available on Amazon for under $50. I put mine on yesterday, but forgot to think about curing time of the RTV and finished around 10:00 PM, but realized I couldn't put fluid in it for a while until the RTV dried. Unfortunately, I have to leave for work at around 5:15 AM. So, I got up at about 3:00 and went outside to quietly fill the transmission. I used a different pump for this. I had a brand new pump from Harbor Freight. It's one o those orange pumps with the cheap hoses, but it worked extremely well. I used a pump because one of the things I neglected to purchase and didn't realize it until I had the fluid drained and couldn't drive to the store was a funnel. That's a terrible thing to realize that you need at 3:00 AM. Luckily, I found the little hand pump that is designed for gas, kerosene, diesel, oil, etc. With it being safe for those fluids, I thought it should be plenty safe for ATF. I used it instead of the first pump because it was cleaner and the first pump pulled the old AFT into a really dirty reservoir. I didn't care about the old fluid going into something dirty, but the last thing I wanted was to have $85 of Royal Purple MAX ATF go through the older tubing and reservoir when I had a brand new and pristine harsh fluid pump. Was it cleaner than using a funnel? Probably not. Trying to handle one tube going a little bit down the dip-stick hole, an open bottle of royal purple and this pump in the middle that wasn't attached to anything but two ill-fitted hoses made a huge mess in my engine bay, on me, but luckily not on my driveway. The extraction pump worked beautifully. When I saw the end of the dip-stick in your video, that gave me the idea of using one. I was going to use the compressor with a vacuum suction manifold to automatically suck all of is out, but the darn thing started leaking at a fitting and I didn't want it to distract me. Anyway, my Road Warrior drive to work on the insane Southeast Texas highways was much, much more pleasant this morning. Here, people drive between 85 and 100 on the in-town highways, no kidding, even my 85 year old dad cruises along at 100 on an average day. Then they come to a full and very immediate stop. A wreck? A stalled car? Nope, they just do that for no real reason. But this morning, I outran the feral boy and his razor sharp boomerang because my truck shifted like a dream, my engine purred and growled from the cold air ram that I just installed, and it stopped so fast, I went three minutes back in time at every absolute zero freeze that the traffic made so pointlessly!

You should be able to bend the drip edge a bit if necessary, as long as it doesn't crack. I would install it under all the roofing if possible. If you can, put it right on the wood sheathing. If not, get it under as much of the roofing as possible.

Thanks!

It's amazing how many different sized sinks there are when you go to look for one. I didn't drill into the granite, I drilled into the wooden frame on the cabinet. I'm the same as you, I was worried I would crack the counter if I cut or drilled into it.

Best of Luck! It's not too terrible to do.

@@thewrighthandyman8139 The sink I need to remove was clamped in by cutting grooves into the granite. Is that a standard practice??

@@steverobinson643 Sometimes. The grooves are for the clips that hold in the sink. The couple I have done did not have these grooves which is why I had to use strapping.

Under sink would be better for not collecting water in the gap

Yes, this is true, I think I pointed at it in the video saying it was a filter. When I bought a kit, all I got was the gasket and the diamond shaped pre-filter. I have changed the transmission oil since I made this video, and I did change both filters (I got both in the kit this time).

Awesome, I wasn't aware they made a plug you could install. I'll keep that in mind for next time I change it.

It's actually a piece of ABS drain pipe. It's called a reducer (I think) and can be found in the plumbing department of your local hardware store. I think this one is a 4" to 1.5" reducer.

@@thewrighthandyman8139 Thank you!

A 2013 Jeep, hmm... tempting 😁. Good luck, I hope it works! Trying to track down electrical demons is a very large pain.

I was hoping this was a similar issue, due to some exposed and dirty copper at the end of the fem connection, ended up not being the fix. 😭 swapped the pigtail, car still won't start. Thinking after a single click when starting, it might be starter related. On to the next thing 😅

@@Squee96 Good Luck, I hope you find it. I know on old cars, the solenoid would crap out and click when you tried to start it. You could short it with a screwdriver to get it running. I would guess that modern cars do not use that anymore.

@thewrighthandyman8139 Kept at it with the pigtail. Heat gun I picked up was having trouble melting solder in the connectors. After some time it started right up. 🙏🏼 Thanks again!

@@Squee96 Awesome! It's always a good feeling when you can resolve one of those ghost issues.

Glad it helped! Good Luck!

@@thewrighthandyman8139I believed the really hard “yellow” stuff you were removing is a Chinese epoxy adhesive specifically for granite and stones. It’s probably the strongest and hardest glue I know…. My sink had the exact same stuff glued on it without any support or clip….. anyways, the “clamp” trick and strap is best stuff I learned from your video. I’ll probably do the same…. Thanks !

@@sickegg2000 Good to know! That would explain why is was resistant to everything except brute force. I didn't consider epoxy, but it would work in this situation, until you needed to replace the sink, then you would have a fight on your hands.

I do agree, the Bosch is better on the hands because it is less aggressive. For anything plywood, it would be superior. I've used my Makita to strip paint, which is where it shines.