Video

That is a good question. I think that as long as the printer has the proper base necessities it should be able to print the ball. Some of the base needs would be a nozzle that can get about 250+ degrees C, a bed that can get to 90+ degrees C, and I would highly recommend direct drive because of the flexible filament. If you use something other than a Bambu Lab printer, I would also suggest running retraction, temperature, e-steps, and speed tests before printing as well.

Most of this should work on Cura too - the only thing I am not sure about is painting custom supports. It looks like there is a plugin that would work similarly: all3dp.com/2/cura-custom-supports/

Hey there, I bought the PEBA filament here: indicatetechnologies.com/products/kimya-peba-s?_pos=59&_fid=7f47f9c39&_ss=c

I will try to help - what printer are you using? What nozzle temp/bed temp/speed?

Yeah I think the A1 will be able to handle it. I would try to use the settings I listed in this video: czcams.com/video/BtqjUwdIx30/video.html

@@makeitlabchannel Thanks! Great videos btw!

@@KC-lw2pk good luck, and thank you!

I used the Ataraxia flex pla: ATARAXIA ART Flexible PLA Filament 1.75mm,Flexible Filament Printer 1kg/2.2lb Spool,Better Than TPU,89A Shore Hardness,Patent Formula,Compatible Bowden Extruder,with Filament Storage Bag,FPLA Orange a.co/d/gsfY31E

I bought it from indicate Technologies website here: indicatetechnologies.com/products/kimya-peba-s?_pos=59&_fid=7f47f9c39&_ss=c

@@makeitlabchannel what diameter of filament did you use

@@Zhaisk I used 1.75 😁

I bought it from indicate Technologies website here: indicatetechnologies.com/products/kimya-peba-s?_pos=59&_fid=7f47f9c39&_ss=c

Hi there, yes I can give that to you. The easiest way would be to email me at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com and I can send that over.

Hi there, when you are support painting, there is something called "section view." you can adjust the section view to customize what you see on the file so that you can paint what you want. Let me know if you have any questions, or if you would rather me send you the 3mf.

I would be happy to provide you with the 3mf. The best way would be for you to email me at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com and I can send that to you.

Hey there, the only real information I could find on the PEBA filament was here: www.kimya.fr/en/product/3d-peba-s-filament-kimya/ It mentions that it "Complies with the REACH regulation and the RoHS directive" REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals) is a European Union (EU) regulation that has as its goal the protection of human health and the environment from the risks associated with the use of chemicals. The European Union (EU) Restriction of Hazardous Substances (RoHS) Directive, also referred to as RoHS 2, controls the use of dangerous materials in electrical and electronic equipment.

@@makeitlabchannel thank you bro, I love you 😆

@@user-hd6uc2ml9v haha, hope it helps!

I used a Bambu Lab P1S printer 😁

@@makeitlabchannel Thankyou what upgrades did u need to do this? Mainly as i was thinking about adding it to my Airsoft Gun(on my YT Shorts idk you might find it cool)

@@MJ_3D I just had to replace the nozzle/hot end with a hardened steel version. I also had to get a filament dryer to dry the filament before and during printing. That sounds very cool, I will have to check it out!

@@makeitlabchannel amazing Thankyou!

I am not sure - the shaving cream is really to keep it from being really sticky, but you might be able to substitute oil or something else instead

@@makeitlabchannel thanks

Appreciate it. If I can get more PEBA I will try printing it with a different orientation to see if it holds up.

Hey there, sounds good. The best way to contact me is email at makeitlabchannel@gmail.com

Yes that is definitely a big factor - I printed the file with a different orientation with flex PLA and it cracked around that seam as well. PEBA might have better results, but I think part of it is that the file has a thick seam that connects to small lattice branches at the areas it is cracking. If I can get more PEBA I will rotate the orientation and see if it will hold up 😁

Yeah I thought about trying that but when I used the PEBA in the AMS it got caught/ran into some issues - is there another way besides the AMS or manual changes?

@@makeitlabchannel maybe with the AMS Hub? Not sure if you can directly use the Hub without the AMS. My guess is that the rubber fillament creates to much friction over the length of the AMS tubes.

@@arcadebit1551 definitely worth looking into because if the supports were easy to remove it would be amazing. I think you are right

Is it made by PartyLime? If so, I think it is the same file but if not I will check it out!

Bambu Lab P1S 😁

Thank you sir 🙏

I used the Bambu Lab P1S

Bambu Lab P1S for all of these

For all of these basketball prints I used the Bambu Lab P1S

Thanks! I will check it out 😁

Why not use the double lattice version of that? I've been printing it with PEBA the last few days

@@CCBCodeMonkey how did it turn out? Does the durability hold up?

@@makeitlabchannel Oh the double lattice other file didnt finish because my power ran out, but either way that one just wouldn't bounce well, its essentially like a single lattice I think.

You might be right there. Have you tried fdm printing your design? Resin printing is a good idea, never tried it but might be worth trying for this 😁

@@makeitlabchannel Sent my 3d model to an acquaintance but he never got to print it, was planning on printing a few to sell. Sold my old FDM printer only have resin printers but don't have the build volume to test it and never tried hard or flexible resin.

Yeah I think changing the orientation will be worth trying for sure and 45 degrees might be the way to go

Thank you - appreciate it!

Appreciate it!

Appreciate it! Those are good ideas. I might start with just changing the orientation of the print as someone else recommended as it might just be the layer lines with that seam, but could still cause problems

Appreciate it! I should have thought of this but someone mentioned just rotating the orientation 90 degrees so that the seam is not along the layer lines and that sounds promising. Will have to try when I get more PEBA 😁

​@makeitlabchannel When I printed that ball in flashforge flexible it was oriented 90 degrees from how you printed it and it cracked the same

@@AlexMccawley yeah for me it looked like it was more of a problem with the large/thick seam connected to small hexagon lines. Hopefully one of the files will work well

Much appreciated! The brand of PEBA I am using is the Kimya PEBA-S - seems to work really well. I think changing the orientation of the double lattice might potentially help the durability, but I am running out of PEBA lol

@@makeitlabchannel its not cheap stuff. you either run out of PEBA or you run out of money doing this stuff.

@@joshwright3683 yep that is my dilemma lol

That is a good point - the layer lines along that seam could very well be the issue. I will have to try your recommended orientation!

About to mention the same thing, the material seems to be doing a great job, but if it keeps breaks there, there must be a weakness created at the horizontal seams which is not found with the hexagons, printing it vertically should hopefully provide a stronger ball :)

@@alecbaxendale216yeah I think you are right. I printed the same file with a different orientation using flex PLA and it cracked in the same place, but maybe it will hold up with PEBA

A bouncy Captain America's shield.

@@Vibranium_man I will start looking into this 😁

Nice! Hope it keeps printing well

Hey there, I made a video explaining all of the settings and filament used here: czcams.com/video/BtqjUwdIx30/video.htmlsi=NyiJj-enTr5ChAQT I used PEBA filament (link is in the description), but the main settings were 250C nozzle temp, 100C bed temp, 40 mm/s speed, 3 walls, 50% gyroid infill, random Z-seam, and I used tree supports but I had to block the supports at the top and "paint" them on the bottom. I explain it in a lot more detail on the video. Let me know if you have any more questions 😁

For the White and Black flex PLA, I used the model from BU4D on thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6045662 it is a single lattice model that seems to work pretty well, but I have not tried any files from 3dxav. The most recent basketballs I have been printing with the double lattice (Gen 12) file from PartyLime, and the double lattice makes a better bounce but the file seems to break easier. I am going to see if I can design my own for the best of both, but the PartyLime file does work well. Those are the only ones I have tried so far 😁

I have actually not tried TPE yet. Based on what I read about TPE, I think it might be too soft/flexible for a good bounce, but you never know! I would personally stick to PEBA or TPC (if you can find any), or even flex PLA.

Yeah same here, hope they send them out soon 🙁

Hmm, my first question is what rpi ter are you using? When my Ender 3 was not broken I had to run a temperature and retraction test for just about any new filament. I would suggest starting with a temperature and retraction test to see the best results, although I know it is not a quick fix

To do the multi colors that I printed, unfortunately yes, but you can manually change filament colors at different layer heights for some cool multi-color results too

Oh interesting idea! I was going to melt them into molds for skulls/fidget spinners

Sounds good!

Yes, definitely the best so far 😁

Since I want to include the single lattice file on that video and I am just starting the print, it won't be until at least next week, but yep can't wait to shank a few shots from half court 😂