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Diversion box! I like that name. I planned on adding a 2 1/2” port at the box but seriously….does not need it! Thanks man!

I’ve tried a bunch and realize that not all neodymium magnets are creates equal! My only source is KJ Magnetics. No affiliation, btw. They’re just well made. Other brands crack easily. All rare earth magnets can crack but these are fantastic! Cheers

@@ramonartful Thanks for the tip. I recommend your channel to any woodworkers I know. You should have a million subscribers. Quality is always excellent.

Have to add another comment. Your number one tip of all time which displaces the previous number one "plastics" (line from The graduate-1967 Dustin Hoffman, Anne Bancroft etal).Your use of magnets to hold your pencil to your chest. Changed my life.Finally no more broken lead in pockets, place it anywhere you want, no look placement, use it on any shirt. Brilliant.

@@Mark-jd1fr Ha! Thanks! I got tired of ruining my shirts...and I always had to use both hands to clip/unclip my pencils. 20 plus years ago I started using magnets for my pencils...took me a bit to dial in the size that I like. 1/8" thick x 1/2" round works. Anyway, thanks for the good words!

@@Mark-jd1fr That is so great to hear...thanks a lot

Thank you…means a lot! Cheers

Thank you! It was a pretty straight forward process...I did use a bit of cardboard to get things right!

I love seeing comments like this! Thanks a lot and thanks for watching

I too, like the addition of a smaller 14" band saw to compliment a large saw. Thanks for checking out the vid!

Good point about angled cuts. This is one reason that I made it with magnets....simple on/off. And since the magnets were strategically placed, I can move the table to make angled cuts and the shroud simply needs moved downwards...it still "snaps" tightly in place, even at 45°. The lower door is still easy to open by grabbing at the opening, but that is just to WOW myself to see that there isn't any dust left behind...it works that well! Thanks for watching

It is a great project with excellent reward! Thanks for watching

Same here.

That is great to hear and inspires me to keep making em! Much thanks

Nice! That'll be a fun project. 14" bandsaws are so useful! thanks

Great minds think alike! Initially, that was my intention. However, the back portion is solid cast iron, which wouldn't be impossible (and a good place if created at the factory, I think) Also, there's a belt guard that would be in the way. Where it's located now is fine...the hose is left of the blade by about 7" but flexible and turns immediately...so it's well out of the way when cutting. Thanks for watching!

Great to hear that you liked! And yeah, pretty simple modifications that make a huge difference! I'm not sure I mentioned it in the video, but the large diameter hole saws need to be ran quite slowly and with little pressure. Cheers

@@ramonartful Awesome great to know!!

That could certainly work. I like to think of capturing as much dust as possible via vacuum to mitigate too much dust in the air. This 4" port did the trick here. I dig it! Anyway, thanks for checking out the vid!

Yes. Hope he put some silicone or gasket material there. Seems he thought of everything else 😁

Funny thing...as I was editing the video, I couldn't remember as to why I didn't use screws. Probably to eliminate the sharp points sticking inside...although those could be dealt with. But I like the rivets too. Cheers

Ha ha...I didn't! It could use that probably. In my next life...if I remember! thanks

Thanks! I would probably use those a ton! Even though I love the "hands on" process of building something. Cheers

I appreciate that...truly! Thanks for watching

Hey! Thank you. Glad to hear that

Thank you! It’s a funny thing…three of my brothers write like this…all very similar. Probably from years of reading blueprints.

It works really well!

Heh heh…I was pleased as to how well they worked! 🙏🏼

Thank you for checking out the video David!

This one is a bit tricky. Staples are best for holding power, 18 gauge is a good choice. If the area that came apart is clean and goes back together well, some epoxy applied sparingly would help. I’d tap all of these apart to open them and so this. In addition to the staples a light squeeze with a clamp should work. Again, sparingly with staples. Too many only weakens the area. Replacing the guides makes sense however, this doesn’t always work. Most commercially available slides need 1/2” clearance at each side. You mentioned a center slide, those usually require much less clearance. Without seeing exactly what they are, I can’t advise. Center slides in general are used on dressers because they’re cheaper, but could also be harder to find. If you do have 1/2” clearance then you have some options. Epoxy coated, 3/4 extension (bottom outside corner mount) are a good choice. Side mount, full extension, ball bearing are also good…the appeal here is the full extension. However, with both these types one would need the structure to have a way to attach the cabinet components. That can be challenging if there’s no place to anchor these. Sometimes the side walls of the dresser are too thin, for instance. If you can add support for the slides, use plywood rather than solid wood, simply because it doesn’t split. Sometimes it is easier to just make new boxes. I like Baltic Birch 12 or 15 mm. But it needs to be sanded well and finished (sprayed lacquer typically) Another option is 5/8” melamine, but here, one needs a good saw to cut this material clean on both sides (scoring blade) and the top edges need “tape”. Prefinished 1/2” is available, but the top edge still needs addressed. Of course, solid wood is great, but needs finished. If you can find the piece to glue and clamp, that could work. Use a block covered with clear tape or similar to get proper pressure and glue squeeze. Pricing: I use to charge 90 to 120 per box and 40 for repair. Sometimes that covers it and sometimes it didn’t. We repaired drawer boxes weekly. Many times the front or back was broken and we could just add another piece on the inside without disassembling. But often we would disassemble, remake a side and reassemble. Matching material was usually the problem. You’re gonna have to figure out pricing on your own since I can’t offer much without seeing the dresser. One option that was getting popular is ordering all new drawer boxes. Even with shipping this could be a good alternative, just be aware of the drawer guide size requirements and the ability to add mounting material. Dressers can be a challenge to repair because they can be more work than buying new. In general, they’re made kinda cheap. Many are built so lightweight with thin materials, that they’re hard to make strong. I’m not sure without seeing it. Perhaps, epoxy where you can with good clamping is best. Good luck!

I like it!

Glad you liked. Thanks for checking it out !

That’s a good idea. He actually offered to send me some. I love how this stuff contours to rounded surfaces, edges, etc. Cheers

Not sure what DJI is. Poor sound? Normally, I send my audio out for enhancement but just wanted to get this info out about GritGrip. The website just launched. LMK please. Thanks

@@ramonartfulDJI is a wireless mic. Rode also makes one. If not wireless, a lavalier mic

Yeah, gotcha. I typically use something like that or do VoiceOver post edit. But this was an old video that I changed from unlisted to public before I was trying to make my audio better. Thanks for letting me know.

Yep, you’re right. But I wanted to show how to divide a circle into six segments in case someone wanted to make a 6 segment starburst. It’s simple geometry, but useful, yeah? Cheers

Great hearing that. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Great minds think alike! 😬 thanks for checking out the vid

Ha! I remember thinking one day…how could I keep that veneer tight inside…🤔 I need a “reverse vacuum bag”. Of course! Balloons! 🎈 😆 Thanks for watching

Awesome to hear! Thanks a ton

I really appreciate that…thank you!!

So good to hear that feedback. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I appreciate the good words! I used a dyed blue veneer…I believe it’s a bird’s eye Maple. Not sure where I got it.

I’ve always wanted to make humidors! So many ideas, so little time! 😬

Ha ha…I love that. And thanks for the points! 😬🙏🏼

Thank you tons! This was a great surprise to wake up to! I apologize about not uploading YT vids lately…I had a rental that needed work and I got behind on everything else! I’ve been thinking about a veneer tutorial. There is a lot out there already but I have a few unique tips n tricks. Maybe one day. Thank you for the inspiration and for checking out my videos.

That's a great concern and one that I should have touched on. You're correct...they're too time consuming to be profitable...usually. I have made these and charged between 1K - 2K and explained to the customer for that justification. But in general, I like the skills that I gain...and usually just give these away. And yes, I typically make a few at a time. Thanks for the input!

@@ramonartful thanks for the response. I was thinking they would have to be that expensive but only current loyal clients would be your best bet in selling them. I agree they seem like fun to make with interesting challenges to up our game and for good time at the shop (if one has the time and a shop) to do these for family and friends to make as gifts for those special people that will appreciate them.

@MAVENdeNYC Once you're familiar with the process, they can be created fairly quickly. Burls are best for production...of course, marquetry added to the top is going to be the slowest, but perhaps the most rewarding. Thanks again

thanks! On the necklace holders I used tape like normal...pulling the tape tight across the seams...that pressure applies to the overall section of veneer negating other clamps or pressure. But the length has to be just right. When dry fitting...the seam just barely comes together. With glue, the seam is almost open...but the stretch of the tape tightens things up. Makes sense, yeah? I don't remember having any issues with glue squeeze out at seams. It always gets cleaned up enough to not show up later. Even with stain...even though I don't use stain that often anymore. But I do think it's a great tip especially when working with epoxy. Thanks for the input !

Thank you Amanda! It’s a fun process

Thanks man…I appreciate it

Glad to hear it! Thanks

Interesting…and I agree. I always disclose my intentions of using PVC when talking with a potential customer. Then I tell ‘em why. Most get it. I’ve never seen a solid wooden round box that hasn’t deformed over time. I find it interesting that high caliber yachts and jets have veneer all over the place…and people can get hung up on solid wood being superior. It still takes a highly skilled person to create something that not only good but will last a lifetime. I seldom use paper backed veneer for anything (other than my medallions) because the veneer is simply too thin. But here, it’s a good fit.

@ramonartful as you say, transparency is key, and good design to mask the material seals the deal. Very cool project and tutorial. I really need to build up my patience and get back into using veneers. Too many fun and creative ideas in my bald dome that need attempting

Yeah…veneer opens up so many possibilities!

Right? I got tired of cutting the cleat to make it reach the blade 😆 The adjustable one is 🔥

Great to hear…thanks for watching !

I appreciate that. Thanks

Here’s the link to the website…which machine are you using? ramonvaldezfinefurniture.com/

What do you mean? “Unavailable”? Thanks

Thanks ! Yep…that’s the saw. The blade is a Lennox Woodmaster carbide tipped. 1” wide x 2 teeth per inch. I believe the kerf is about 1/32”. Works well