Video

So damn quiet and smooth. Take that you dumb ol four strokes

Sounds real good Wow im impressed...

Much less shaking with those modifed lower pan mounts. Check out my repair video on fixing lower pan mounts simple and easy.

i have the same engine with a pressure gas tank to keep it original. its 1959. I paid $125 over 15 yrs ago and it needed everything under the flywheel, plus water pump. rebuilt the carb, new needle and plastic float. it runs good now, after i retired Iwas able to spend the time it needed to repair it properly. its on a 14 foot alum skiff, we live up in maine. tons of salmon and brookie fishing up here.

An honorable idea indeed... But tough to make any money doing such an amazing job like you do.

great collection indeed

Boy o boy, if YOU are scrapping it, it must be no good for sure

Boy o boy, those stingrays were every kids dream bike for sure

Good rule(s) to live by for sure

Nice work

Cool

It happens when the motor stands around for a long time with old gas in the carb. Luckily, I didn't have to poke mine with some welding rod. I blasted it with brake cleaner, let it soak, and blasted some compressed air through the thing. These carbs are notorious for failing if they're not thoroughly cleaned. By that I mean split it into atoms and clean every little thing in there. :)

Just came across your channel and truly appreciate the information. Subscribed!!!

Great video! Well needed relaxing moment from doom scrolling! ✌️👁️

Wire broke off of pin, nothing to solder too. How do you get the pins out of the connector?

There's that sweet 55😁👍🏻

Cool old 55 Glenn

Sweet peak at the ole 55

👍😎🇺🇸💯

Nice Nice!!!❤

I have the same exact motor and it’s absolutely amazing

Love !!!!! My Most Fav motor,, & He is Spot on Perfect, from Part's to Paint.. KB

Hi there

I was waiting for part 2 lol, take it easy Glenn 😊

That crappy paint job sure did a good job of preserving the original paint. It looks great. Great job saving the gearcase.

F.Y.I. I use a 3 inch cutting wheel and cut off the transom clamp studs slightly higher then both castings before drilling & tapping. I remove & save the handles for future use.

I'm glad to see you struggle to get those damn gearcase seals out also. Pullers, slide hammers, threaded screws....All that usually happens is that metal seal casing just pulls up releasing whatever it is you have jammed under there to pull it out. Eight out of ten times, I usually end up gently coercing the metal seal casing inwards to loosen it up like you did. My machinist buddy, (who is sorely missed after passing last fall), even made me a neat collet set up(s) to fit the various seals, but even that usually just pulls the upper metal casing up releasing the collet. One must be extremely careful using pry bars and the like, only because the delicate aluminum castings are usually damaged during that operation. That engine sounded so nice when you had it running, hard to believe that gearcase was full of salt/cement. That steering swivel and shift rod are fun jobs as well. Countless hours of heating, applying gentle but constant force, patiently twisting just a touch more each time, all because folks don't know how to grease an engine. And once the salt is in those cavities, it is too late to try to grease them.... You are so right about the laquer thinner, look at how nice that original finish is... Is there a reason you went after those surfaces so quickly with the wax? Were you worried that the laquer thinner might attack the original paint if not protected soon after removing that messy paint job? I keep forgetting about the Yamaha paint, perfect match indeed! Tell me again the tempo or Yamaha name part number, sure need to get some of that on hand. Love that mount repair, will have to review that video the next time I work on one of these engines. In the end, I would match the idle quality of these older 22CI OMCs to any four stroke made today. When I say older, I mean the models built before the overboard drains were plugged up and that crazy uneven recirc system was added.

Need parts 1950S-80S 2HP-40HP OMC mostly. I have a huge inventory of parts lots of bring back engines,metal & fiberglass covers,carbs,powerheads, lowerunits,castings etc.

Дякую за відео , ці двигуни випередили свій час по якості і надійності.

OOOOP'S Kinda ? If I Have The Mechanical ability ,,, But'' I Do Love Them Old E-Rudy's & Jonny's Loved The Vid' 4 Sure, ! kb

That motor belonged to my great-great-great-great-great-great uncle Flavius maximus of Rome!!! He couldn't get it started,, so he gave it to Caesar Augustus to use to cross the Rubicon river north of Rome!!! It quit running while he was crossing the Rhine and the Gauls ( they had some Gaul!!!!) almost captured him!!!! Caesar then scrapped that motor at Plutonius Farkanius's ~Roman Scrap yard~!!!! LOLOLOL!!!! Great video Glenn!!!!!!

Lord Manufacturing makes & made many products for the Industrial world including these pesky little anti-vibration vulcanized mounts used for many years on OMC outboards years back. They are still in buisness today being bought out in 2019 by another company Parker-Hannifin according to Wikipedia

you are a national treasure sir

Yeah, most of those mounts are real crap, the threaded bolts are just bonded onto the rubber, usually come off in pieces during disassembly. I bought a bunch of these cheesy mounts years ago, but will surely do your repair the next time...

Pretty smart approach great repair tutorial video .Yeah they are way too expensive to replace on an old motor thats only worth a few hundred bucks in most cases.. Thanks for posting this rare item fix.......Frank

Anyone needing parts 2HP-40HP 1950S-80S OMC mostly let me know I have just about everything.

Excellent Video Glenn, very entertaining. 😊

Just a correction this style of motor and cover was used from 1962-1970 not 1963-70 like I posted in video.Hard remembering all the correct dates when you done so many repairs thru the years like me,HA! Also the carb linkage and scalloped plate were factory in 1967-68 only go figure.Ill clarify in next PT 2 video what I learned..

OUTBOARD ART, Belongs in a Musem next to A Vango! People wont get it for 200 Years, kb

Great catch on that cam follwer. Sounds sweeeeet.

That strange throttle cam on the mag was only used for 67 and 68. It really does not open the throttle much until the mag is almost fully advanced. They seem to run good if all the parts match. Probably to improve fuel economy at part throttle.

The dinosaur days were the best days indeed. OMC would still be in business if this exact engine could be produced today. Those points don't look OEM, perhaps that explains the long clips. Yeah, I remember those crazy looking cams, don't know when they came in... Probably when the overboard drains got plugged and that lousy recirc system was adopted, never idled like this one does for sure after that.

Looking good should turn out real nice! ...Frank

Need parts 1950S-80S 2hp-40HP OMC mostly and other makes let me know as I have a huge inventory ...

I have the parts for all of these 1950S-80S 2HP-40HP!

Looks like she has been sitting around awhile. Good luck with it 👍🏻

Great to see you back Glenn. Man! That motor gave you some trouble but you pushed though and won Yes!😁 Sure is a good looking old motor and purring like a kitten now Another one back to life now the fun begins again lol. Always enjoy watching looking forward to seeing what's coming up next. Have a great rest of the week see you on the next one 👍🏻

So many great points of discussion here! First, we can't over emphasize the importance or proper prep/sealant/application when it comes to sealing crankcase halves! Most of the "anerobic sealers" do have a "shelf life", and I would not trust open containers for much more than a year regardless. It is so frustrating because most of the containers/tubes are much larger than we need when working on small outboards. Prep is key for sure, proper cleaning is a must, making sure the surfaces are flat is just as important. Not much of an issue on the small ones, but an often overlooked issue on the larger outboards for sure. Following directions on the sealer, making sure the surfaces are clean, all these seemingly minor things are so damn important. Nothing worse than starting a freshly built powerhead only to see bubbling/spraying from the crankcase halves. I know the damn typeM is tough to work with, but it sure dries well and rarely leaks. The anerobic stuff is great, but much less tolerant to irregular surfaces and poor prep. Sure do wonder what could have stuck the rings to quickly... Do you think the acid swelled the aluminum surfaces in the ring lands? Was there any "stuff" in there that would explain the stuck rings? I say stuff, only cuz we know it wasn't carbon or rust/corrosion from water submersion. That powerhead gasket issue is another interesting topic as well. The mating surfaces on the older spring mount engines are different, so it is easy to understand how using the wrong gasket will create a cooling leak. But, the mating surfaces are the same for the later model non thermostat vs newer thermostat engines. So, what problem could be created by using the gasket with the one hole versus the gasket with the complete cut out? Just wish I could figure that out someday. The lower seal orientation/installation is one of the biggest errors made by so many people, including inexperienced outboard techs working on older engines. The problem is that you won't realize your error, the engine will run fine. It takes some time before enough water makes its way inside eventually causing enough rod wear to ventilate the crankcase. Thermostat head gasket on a non thermostat engine? Guess that would probably work OK. Running the engine with the air discharge open will cause it to run lean on one cylinder, you will need to use the pressure tank in order to dial in the idle later. Finally, I have watched the boys use that drill motor helping to get stubborn engines running. But, you must be careful not to inadvertently over tighten/torque the flywheel nut while doing that.... Great job/wrestling match done brother. Another great fishing motor for someone to enjoy for many years to come...

Need old 1950S-80S OMC parts from 2HP -35HP let me know I probably have it.

For outboard guys that enjoy this.Heres a list of what I came across on this little kicker..Aluminum readplate corroded(replaced),crankcase sealing problems (old sealer), partially stuck rings after second teardown(cleaned grooves & new rings installed),carb flooding issues(installed new needle & seat) Motor was missing carb and knobs,recoil,airbox,tiller ,carb faceplate.All replaced with used parts.Replaced headgasket, both carb intake gaskets ,carb mount gasket and powerhead gasket to midsection all new ($75 local marina)Impellar(new),coils(used) and plugs.