Video

Looks nice

Would powering the front wheel work better?

I THINK you can reduce the cavitation by putting the propeller inside of a cylinder.... or at least I thought that's what I understood they were for whebn I watched a video on boats that had steerable props... but i could have understood it wrong... BUT I would think the best way would be to slow them down... so just make them bigger... you've got plenty of power that bigger props would slow them down enough and push WAY more water.... or you could always try those new style of props that use loops instead of blades... I think Tom even tried them out..... - ALSO I way thinking about why some prints wouyld have been been mismatched... it's probably the room temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure that day.... alone each one of these variables do affect much, but when all three are different AND you're doing such large prints I would think all three variables would make such huge swings over such a large distance - PLUS you're printing them quite fast, so they aren't going to be very accurate over so many layers..... - I think the perfect person to ask would be James Bruton .... he does A LOT of very large prints and dowen't seem to ever have issues with this... you shoudl probably ask him

Your propellers need to be under water. Look at how outboard boat motors look - they have a neck long enough for the whole propeller to be below the hull. If the water detaches from the rear of your boat (typically around 7 knots), your propellers start sucking air from above the water line and you get that nasty cavitating noise.

The gap is from warping.

all bicycles use 2 wheels

Hi there - is there a link to the download ?

Can you giv me the stl for the Foils off yor First Video?

Yes- the helmet is a VERY good idea. Maybe some knee and elbow pads might be too….

The foil needs to be back farther.

1:05 PLA Glue

Try a containment or regulator out the back so it reduces the thrust by 50 percent

Where did you buy it? I can only find a penny farthing that big for like $2,600 US

Batman boat

Maybe build it shaped like 2 hulls side by side. With a space between where you can sit to control the boat. Then you can use 1 motor in the middle and make 2 rudders. Locate the rudder brhind the hull. Just like when you buy an boat. Then you can use a bigger motor with more power. Instead of 2 motors.

You will significantly reduce cavitation by reworking those motor mounts. Not only do they have a flat front face plowing in the water, theyre blocking the water from flowing through the prop. Instead they have to suck in water from the sides.

I am a college student who is designing drone injection. Can I get a 3d modeling file of the device that fires co2 cartridges?

You need a bigger wheel. you have to keep your weight centered with the wheel or you introduce a lean to the wheel and it wants to shoot off to one side, IE Lean with your lean.

at 10min its actually ventilation not cavitation

Definitely find a model of a proven hydroplane and scale it up to fix this, and use surface piercing props

Ever tried v1

no match for my Datcher Electric Rake!

All consumer 3D printers are off square. You must correct the frame and then run skew calibration XYZ. Next, run a test print to correct the expansion/contraction and scale the model with the corrections to get accurate results. In XL parts use .8 nozzle to speed up the process and get strong parts. Even the .6 will work better. BTW what a waste of filament, time, money. Insane!! Just use playwood and fiberglass. Or made the shell in 3D print, then use it as a mold to cover it with fiberglass

This is the reason it’s considered “near net shape manufacturing”, near being the operative word

Your bed isnt level with the gantry or the printer isnt square.

"a toast to the most toastiest toast laser toaster"

bro just reTIRE

V1

where did you get the motors from?

Mad dogs and Englishmen obviously go out in more than just the mid day sun.......

you should install water jets

When Henry Ford first started making cars, they ALL ran on alcohol, as they were intended for farmers, who could distil alcohol from excess crops.

Cant believe you Fell in Ha Ha and dont forget to Measure twice and Print once!! Great as always Keep it up !

Cavitation is generally caused by props being too high for the application, or disturbed water flow. In this case, I think it is both. Larger propeller likely will help it (enough) though it would have been better if were below the center on pod(s). In the end, if it gets to planing speed, then you'll likely want the props level with planed out water level, or above. The hydroplanes you built is designed on the "3 point" design and are meant for much higher speed than 30. Normally, the boat will plane on the back portion of the sponsons and at lower speed the back of the boat. At extreme speed, they'll nearly just ride the propeller which will be roughly halfway out of the water at top speed. They are a bit different on prop placement than conventional v-bottom boats (where I have a lot of experience with small boats going fast). If larger props didn't help, or help enough, you might also experiment with 'set-back' i.e. putting the motors BEHIND the boat instead of inside. This helps with stability, bow attitude (which may not help much on hydroplane), and overall speed. My 20' Hydrostream needed 8" of setback versus mounting the outboard directly on the stern with prop 2" above center line to hit its max speed of 104 mph. Regarding the fit, fit all the parts together and glue before filling with foam. I discovered a long time ago when I used spray foam behind a door frame that it can expand and greatly flex the space. In my case, the small amount I used was enough to where I couldn't get the door open until I took a saw and cut out some of the foam. It looks like the molds did fairly well, but more internal bracing near connection points will help. I used to have to do that with huge fiberglass subwoofer boxes so they didn't flex under use.

are you autistic?

Toys kenner batman

Why didn't you glue everything together first then fill it?

Bro had a layer shift on 8:32 :)))))

You’re pods block your flow to your propellers. That’s why normal boats have the motors inside the hull with a driveshaft going through the hull with an only a strut supporting the prop shaft in the water to reduce drag and turbulence to the propellers.

You need to lower the seat, this will give you a lower center of gravity and more control, or if you use a gyro as ballast it will stabilize it!

You need to angle the prop down a little to create a plane you wanna sit more in the front of the boat not towards the back as you were the concept of this style hydroplane is to have the pontoons and prop in water while you plane over the water so you want angle to the prop to lift the back up

Honestly, a combination of factors, printer not being square, pla and prints in general tend to shrink/warp and / or how the model was cut up in fusion. Pretty good build though with everything considered.

Big large pieces=warping=gaps. Like grom Galicia

impellors 👌

more hydrodynamic aft, and prop up

Cavitation is prop & hull design, @rctestflight has done a lot of work in this space. Might not hurt to reach out. I’d be surprised if @tomorrow Stan’s to doesn’t have a way to get in touch.

I'm surprised you didn't equip a gyroscope.

thats sick

for the cavitation problem try playing around with toroidal propellers

Reduce cavitation with a cavitation plate