Video

Very welcome!

Yes. That is how I understand it too. You just worded it much better than I said it. Thanks for watching!

Are you referring to the main handle? There is no footage of the removal, but at 6:04 it is replaced by threading it on with the collar. Removal is the opposite obviously, but if it is on too tight, you may need a strap wrench to get it started.

Since the car is not running yet, I don't have any road experience with them yet. I will give them a good review later. But here is the product: www.roughcountry.com/product/jeep-led-headlights-rch5000. I think they are a good value and come with a 3 year warranty.

😆

I don't know. To be safe, I usually run a little water through the pump afterwards.

Mask? I think I wore one when mixing the concrete to keep from breathing the cement dust.

Yes, sorry. The footage I got was a little limited. Hope your fix went well.

😆 That makes sense. I don't know why the US can't just join the rest of the world and get on the metric system. Thanks for watching, Ian!

@@FixItScotty the UK where I am has its own hang ups over metric / imperial. We are 90% metric, but a large drink in a pub is still a pint and road sign distances are still miles. It would be a definite vote loser for any politician to try to turn them metric, so they won’t ever be changing. But I’m glad hardware measurements etc are mm over here.

Thanks so much for you kind words. I hope all goes well with your transaxle rebuild. If you end up doing an ev conversion like mine, you already have the best year transaxle for it. Thanks for watching!

I don't have plans of my own, but in the video, the notes I used came from these plans that I modified: www.icreatables.com/sheds/10x12-B-backyard-shed-plans

Thanks for watching and for the advice! Either way, I am happier that I painted the top for a color match and the gelcoat made a great resurfacer and bonding coat for the paint to stick to. I am very happy with the result.

Thanks 👍

For this project, I had a general contractor who coordinated the demo, foundation, and structure. I don't know the breakdown of just the foundation, unfortunately.

Thanks Hubertus, the restoration is almost finished!

Just expand the video description for links to all of the products I mentioned. The only product not in there is the Tamco AG series single stage automotive paint that I sprayed it with. Single stage automotive paint runs around $100 - 150/quart.

Thank you so much 😀

Good to know. Thanks for watching!

Nope. Since the maintenance valves isolate the water heater from the rest of the system, no other plumbing devices need to be bypassed or shut off.

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

I agree with you. However I did caulk the trim really well. Hopefully that will last a little while.

@@FixItScotty it should, anyway if it will make you feel any better, I did the same exact thing.

Thanks for the kind words! The concrete post anchors are this product: www.menards.com/main/p-1444445502787-c-8825.htm. The joist hangars are these: www.menards.com/main/p-1444445489695-c-8843.htm. If I missed something, let me know. Thanks for watching.

I have heard of special non-conductive coolant for EV motors or batteries. But I have never heard of restrictions on refrigerant for electric AC compressors, or of the possibility of the refrigerant causing a short. If you have a link or something that mentions this, let me know.

Thanks for watching and for the info!

I don't think backflushing is necessary unless the equipment has solids dissolved in the water flowing through it; like coffee or beer. I could be wrong. But I have only seen the advise from Rheem to do the flush as I showed in the direction of the flow. Thanks for watching!

@@FixItScotty thanks! I just ordered the pumps and hoses. I didn't know you were supposed to flush them so it's been 7 years! The igniter just went out so it's a good time to clean it.

Thanks! Out of curiosity, are you planning on using the Volt AC compressor in your Porsche conversion?

@@FixItScotty not planning on it. I guess that could change but don't have one

When your AC compressor is off, like I showed at 24:27, the low side could be about 100 psi (or 700 kPa), and you should still have a little pressure in your high side. Once you start the car and run the AC, the low side pressure should come down to around 40 psi (275 kPa) and the high side should go up over 200 psi (1380 kPa). Since you are only building pressure on the low side, you could have a blockage in your evaporator or a faulty AC expansion valve. Or it could also be the compressor is not getting enabled. I believe on the Volt, the electric compressor is operated by the BECM? I believe there was a service bulletin on the BECM for all Gen2 volts. I had mine replaced last year.

​@@FixItScotty Thanks for the answer! In my case the AC Compressor does not start due to low pressure on the high pressure side. Before starting the air conditioner, did you supply refrigerant from the high pressure side or did you supply refrigerant only from the low pressure side?

@@user-zd1xf8vn4i I only supplied refrigerant to the LOW side WHILE the compressor is running. Never charge the system with it off. You may be able to take your car to the dealership or service place to have them recover or pull out the refrigerant and confirm the compressor works. Then you can follow the steps in my video to do a complete charge.

I don't have framing plans of my own, but I used these plans as a guide (I modified for my door and window): www.icreatables.com/sheds/10x12-B-backyard-shed-plans

Thanks! There is a link directly to the product in the video description.

That is terrible! I would get a warranty replacement if that happens. I have not experienced any issues yet, but mine is just under a year old. Hopefully Genie will help you get that resolved and it was just an isolated problem.

I don't have an air filter, but I show in my advanced flush video how to clean the inlet water filter (if that is what you meant). czcams.com/video/CfC-WXNDnHo/video.html

You're welcome! Thanks for watching.

If it's only making a small sound, I would confirm your power is connected properly. If the power unit is designed for 220v, confirm you have both hot wires with 110v between each wire and the ground or 220v across both hots. Even when I primed my unit, it was loud and shook from the torque, so my guess is you are missing something in the wiring.

I think I mentioned in this video that in a previous video (czcams.com/video/44su3MaCbqs/video.html), I already replaced the wheel hub. I still had the code after that, so I replaced the sensor in this video and the code finally stayed clear. It could be either the hub or the sensor or both. I can't tell you for sure which one, but if you can do it yourself, I would replace both.

What ever happened?

Nice! I'm proud of you too 😊

Thanks so much for watching and your kind words. All the best on your bus repair/restoration!

Thanks for watching! I am actually converting this '78 to electric drive and am using a '72 transmission. So the axles are basically the same throughout the years. The only thing that may be a little different is the bearings. I think the part numbers are different from 68-70 vs 71 and up. But they look very similar, so I image the process to install them is the same. But I am not a VW guru, so please ask for other opinions or look up information in thesamba.com. Good luck on your new project. Very exciting!

Thanks! Yes, I am going for a custom look. Hope your restoration is going well!

@@FixItScotty Yes thanks

Thanks! Glad you liked it.