Garage Mini Furnace User Suggestions and Corrections
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2024
- This video shows how I implemented a few corrections and suggestions from my previous video ( • Custom Garage Mini Fur... ) of my custom mini furnace with the Vevor 8kw diesel heater. I show fixes and upgrades to the exhaust tube, fuel line, fuel pump angle, and more.
Product Links:
Vevor Diesel Heater: www.vevor.com/diesel-heater-c...
Heavy Duty Stainless Steel T-Bolt Hose Clamps: amzn.to/48preXK
Motorcycle Heat Shield Tape / Exhaust Wrap: amzn.to/3S93SQv - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for the video! The fuel pump on these is known as a "lift pump" on a diesel engine. It is a diaphragm style pump, so angling it slightly upward keeps the diaphragm submerged in fuel and keeps it from cavitating (foaming air in the fuel)
Your description makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the info!
Stay humble and kind my friend. You probably met some hate but met it with grace 🍻
I get the rude commenter on occasion, but a vast majority are respectful and informative.... so I consider myself lucky :) Thanks for the encouraging words!
Great changes Scotty. Can t wait to see more on the e bus
Thanks! Back to the bus now... I think I have exhausted (no pun intended) all of the videos for this heater.
Nicely done Sir! Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts and experiences. I agree on the Mickey mouse exhaust clamps, they produce a uniform clamping force on the entire diameter delivering a much more robust seal at that critical juncture. a bit of exhaust sealant at that connection can also help ensure a good seal.
Thanks so much for your input as well. As you can see, it had a lot of influence on my build.
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fuel filter clear should be output side so you can see if it's clogged and passing fuel or not.
Great video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. For the power issue, can't you just get a battery back up like for a PC and just put that on your AC line that way you don't have to rewire or change anything? It's already set up for 110 AC, might as well just back that up since it is easy and readily available?
Absolutely. Putting a UPS in between the power supply and outlet is probably the easiest solution for a backup. Great suggestion!
An UPS is a good idea and will work well, as long as you only run the heater while at home and awake. Many UPSs will not provide an extensive run time, so you will need to shut the heater down before the system crashes.
@@daviddawkins2829 Agreed. That would work perfectly for me, but maybe not others.
I recommend a power station with solar panels and the option of charging my power station with 110v from the house that is what I use with a 110 to 12v converter solves all those issues of shut downs
That is certainly a good way to do it. Thanks for sharing!
Hi. Nice install. How is the through hull adapter working for the exhaust. I’m planning to do the same, but I’m concerned about the amount of heat on the wall. Mine would be attached to vinyl siding on the exterior. How hot does it get? Thanks.
I was actually going to run it for a while and test the flange with my thermometer, but that old power supply that's running the heater is having issues. So it may take me a bit to sort that out. I will say, I ran it for several hours multiple times in the winter and I haven't seen any scalding of the wood on either side of the flange. It is made to keep the fiberglass boat hull from melting, so I would assume it should protect your vinyl siding too.
Ok. Thanks. I may try running it with the through hull adapter in place before installing in wall to see how hot it gets first as a trial.
The sealed lead acid charges to just over 14v for full charge and should be held about 13.6v for a "float" charge. After the charger is removed, they settle to about 12.6v or a bit higher. If your current power supply is 12.0v, then that type battery would certainly not be overcharged if left in parallel with the power supply. In fact, it would not be at a high enough voltage to stay healthy. Something like 12.6v is more ideal to stay fully charged. A 12v Lithium ion (3 cells in series) charges to 4.1v per cell, so X3 would be about 12.3v, so if you have a 12.0v regulated supply already, a 3S Li-ion battery in parallel would be a reasonable solution. Charged to 4.0v per cell is almost fully charged. RC or "drone" type batteries have high current and even a relatively small one should provide the power to run the fan to complete a shutdown.
My current power supply outputs 13.4v. So I agree with you, I think I could still use a SLA battery in parallel and it would just float charge while running. The only reason I wouldn't use a lithium pack in parallel with this power supply is that lithium chemistry prefers to be charged at a lesser amperage after ~80% SOC. So a smart charger would be better than a "dumb" power supply to auto adjust the charging algorithm to suit the chemistry. Also, many lithium chargers have cell balancing inputs as well that would help keep the individual cells balanced at the end of the charge. That is why I mentioned if I went with a lithium pack (like an RC pack that you mentioned) as a primary power source, I would just replace the power supply with a smart charger designed for lion. Thanks for watching and sharing!
@@FixItScotty That voltage (13.4v) would work well for lead acid. About lithium, in your suggested solution, the lithium battery would not normally discharge and so balance would not be a real concern. Balance concerns are greater when the cells amp-hr capacity is different because of wear, coupled with cycling of the pack without a balance function. Also, charging lithium at a fixed voltage causes the amps to taper off because the voltage difference between the power source and the battery continues to be less as the battery voltage comes up. So ohms law takes care of that. I have several "chargers" that are just current limited voltage sources set at 4.0 volts per cell to keep a battery charged.
@@ddthames Good to know. Thanks for the insights.
I'm not sure if a power outage and sudden shut off of the diesel heater is much to worry about. Many automotive / RV applications, roof-top tent applications use portable stations that suddenly run out of battery and will simulate that same condition. Not sure I've seen too many people talk / complain about that?
@@thedetroiters,
I am thinking many of those units are exposed to the elements and would get a rough ride cool down due to wind or weather? In a shelter or heated space or cabinet, the process may well be too slow.