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Thank you

Thank you

Have you stuck with a plastic check valve? Any issue with melting? I was considering a metal check valve

I copied you....what do you say? Thanks. ....czcams.com/users/postUgkxX2OdyW1_sVLo2aZz0UGEPbijUOK2kRc3?feature=shared

What happened to the uploads? This is a great channel

Hey ron think work lowrider st

Mine is a '21 , and what l thought was a vent is only venting the gearbox.

Isn't the transmission cover already vented before this modification? My cover has a vent hole in it.

I can hear that it's cammed but what's the exhaust it sounds great

Does the bike have a gear indicator on the screen?

Hey Ron, I'm having a hard time understanding how a vented transmission top cover would have anything to do with engine oil blow by, they are two different oil tanks. I have a 2020 M8 Breakout with a 131 crate motor and an Arlen Ness big sucker air filter. I recently added the feuling vented dipstick which gets saturated through the hose and into the small filter element on the other end whenever I ride the bike hard. The engine oil level is not even at full level (just 90% full) and it still spits out excessive amounts of engine oil when riding it hard especially on a hot day. Need your advise about fixing this issue, I just don't see how the trans top cover would help it as that's transmission oil.

I have a 2024 TRI Glide Ultra, will venting the Crank case void my warranty? Do I need to install a one way valve on a crank case breather system?? Thanks man for your time.

I can see I'm a little late to the party, just wanted to say thumbs up 👍 on selecting the Vulcan kit. Ane, you can save yourself the gasket issues by converting to open primary 😛

Hey. First off I like the way you explain everything. That being said. Back in May I picked up a 2023 Street Glide Special with only 540 miles on it. Since then I've put a little over 4,000 miles on it. Most recently on a trip I noticed, a shit ton of oil coming from my air cleaner. I really couldn't tell if there was any loss of power. On the road a friend and I would gas stop every 150 miles or so. When riding we averaged between 95 - 110 MPH. When I check my oil it keeps indicating to add 1/2 q (which I did) and as of right now it saying to add 1 hole q . I guess what I'm asking is just in your general opinion, does that sound like sumping or blow by. Thanks for any advice

Hey Ron!! Great video series.. You say 3/16ths fittings.. Do you mean 5/16??

Watt size drill bit & tap for 1/8 x3/16 angleled fitting did you use? I'm gonna do it on a 103 vtwin.

i just got back home on one cylinder after fouling a plug in the rain, i have the same air filter it has done this about five times. Mines carbed they arent as forgiving.

Sure beats spending 350.00 on the Trask cover. Do you still have the breathers on the heads connected to the air cleaner?

I’ve got an 18 FLSB that has recently started using a boat load of oil, almost doubling its consumption from about 1/2qt every 1000 miles to 1/2qt every 450 miles. Seeing oil getting into air cleaner and on the right side of the bike. After hitting up a mechanic on CZcams (Doc Harley) who suggested pulling the CKP I did. After riding for about 30 minutes I got the sensor out within about 90 seconds of shutting bike off with it secured in my Condor chock. Only got 2 drops out. So I don’t think sumping is the issue. Hoping that it’s something silly, like just the breathers are over saturated and are allowing excess oil of of them.

I did in fact I moved it all the way manually to the bottom and insert the red clip there appears to be too much slack according to the specs. I'm just concerned with the free play that the clutch is not totally disengaging causing it to be difficult to get into neutral while it's running when bike is not running it's easier to find neutral

I have adjusted my clutch at the basket and I still have too much free play. Is there any way to reduce the free play? I have the adjustment all the way tight. I'm trying to get the bike into N while running. It's fairly easy when the bike isn't running 2020 Heritage 114

Is Harley capable to make one engine that do not have an oil issue ? Damn it

The friction zone is the zone where the clutch just begins to engage to where it is fully engaged. The more you back the aduster out the wider the zone will be .Less than a half turn you run the risk of the clutch not fully disengaging, more than a full turn you risk the clutch not full engaging , a half to 3/4 out is about as far a normal rider needs.

That's my crank case pressure go to guy, your content on this matter was awesome Ron! So... your running the version without the catch can now? Or is this video older....? Best wishes !

Great Video! My clutch cable broke just below the circle at the lever a couple of weeks ago. I replaced it over the weekend and even if I go one full turn out it still wants to stay engaged? Should I go out 1 1/2 turns? Or is there something else I should look at?

THE best explanation and "how to" EVER on this topic! Thanks!

Are these sumping issues still going on with the 2024 m8’s

Hi Ron, I just added the crankcase solution to my bike. I first put the vent hose into a glass of water and it blue bubbles big time, but when I added the check valve almost no bubbles so as of now I'm not using a check valve, What do you think?

Can this be done to a moped/scooter too?

When you say that certain check valves failed, how do you mean? How could you tell?

Why not just pull the 1/4" Allen plug on the very bottom of the crankcase? I believe that's what its there for.

i search installing baffles. first video i could find of someone not removing them lol

Great lesson, a little bit issue on my 2021 SG special, after done 1/2 turn adjustment released the red clip but clutch lever had loose too much almost half clutch of travelling, what's problem in my cable system? Thanks for the answer

you should do a chain maintenance and adjusting video.

I ended up having to go 1/4" out on the adjustor screw. Any more than that and the dead play in the lever would be way way WAY too much. There was no adjustment on the clip as locking it in at any point instead of at fully released just made the lever slop even worse. The extended tube I got with my riser kit also didn't have enough adjustment to take up the lever slop If I had the adjustor screw out any father than 1/4 turn.

I did something similar to my 23 fxlrst. I used a PCV valve from a 2011 Honda Element. The valve is threaded, so once the hold is drilled and the valve is installed, a nut can be installed inside the cover to hold the valve in place. 3/8" hose from valve to filter, just like you did and done. Super easy and efficient.

Yea yesterday riding in the rain 3hrs and the bike wanted to cut out on me. I will be ordering a rain sock for my 2014 softail deluxe cvo stage 4 117 ci

Thanks did this myself. The reason your check valve didn't work if you placed it too far downstream. As the air goes along the hose there is a PSI drop, that's properly why the trask one is mounted directly to the case. Also, by downsizing the hose downstream to fit on your filter element you are reducing the entire length of the hose period because that's how flow w0rks. There's no point in using the larger diameter hose at the start of the stream if your downsizing later.

Looking for a video on how to Lube the cable with this style adjuster Please help

Hey Ron, hope you will be making more videos as they are excellent.

Love your solution, why did you put the nut on the inside of the cover? Couldn't you have just flipped the barb over and put the nut on the outside?

Hey Ron I got 2019 street bob 107. I’m getting trans fluid drip at lower adjustment on front left of frame. Is there a seal or o-ring that needs replacing? Thank for the help and love the videos bud…

Thank you for the video - followed every detail but when I had my break lever installed it did not push the spring/break sensor in enough to turn off the break light? I reinstalled the OEM lever just to make sure I didn’t install the shorty incorrectly the OEM had no issues.. anyone else having this problem?

You obviously dont have ABS on your bike, that location is where the ABS module sits. Having ridden a harley with no ABS and one with it am a fan of ABS on harleys yank and stomp stops amazingly.

Am going to delete the non return valve as feel once enough goop travels to the valve it will begin to block the pressure flow off, there is no suck involved otherwise there would be no goop there. Am also going to route the pipe forwards and T piece it into the head breather line, essentially catching the goop in my DK Customs forward under the coil catch can.

Sounds sweet what cam are you running ?

So I don’t have anything that tells me or measures the foot pounds or inch pounds so how tight would you say to tighten the nut by hand?

hi Ron I'm thankful that I watched this Video again! Clutch engagement is something that you can get used to, But I see things a bit differently. As per this Vid a full turn out results in a later engagement, so I think it would follow that disengagement would start sooner. I'm just trying to alleviate the clunking shifting up and down. thanks to this Vid I ordered a set of Slim line front LED indicators that I saw on your test Bike. Do you like them? Best of Everything Ron, Brian

ya gotta warn Ppl to replace that plastic yellow adjuster with a better after market part as it will eventually break on the road and leave you stranded.

Oh, scratch that, I just saw the part where you mention the 3 times squeeze.