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Car Repairs Made Simple
United States
Registrace 5. 05. 2012
Welcome to my channel! Here you will find many DIY videos on my all-original 2002 Acura TL-S with well over 300,000 miles! My goal is to create the highest quality in-depth DIY videos with superior camerawork to ensure the best possible learning experience possible. I want to give my viewers the confidence they too can tackle any car project to save money and keep their vehicles running as long as possible. If you're ever left with any questions, comments, testimonies, advice, or just simply want to say thanks, leave your thoughts in the comment section as I'm pretty good at getting back to people, even on older videos!
For any video collaboration or business inquiry requests, send me a message to my email address found below!
For any video collaboration or business inquiry requests, send me a message to my email address found below!
How to Replace Front Upper Control Arm - 1998-2003 Acura TL/CL - Honda Accord
In today's video, we'll be replacing the front upper control arm, and I'll be demonstrating this on my 2002 Acura TL-S.
A worn-out control arm can easily go unnoticed with daily driving, so it's important to inspect your suspension with every tire rotation. Simply jack your vehicle up, place it on a jack stand, grab your wheel, and see if there's any loose play in any direction. Loose play when grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel usually dictates a worn-out upper control arm. You can further clarify this by removing the wheel and shaking the knuckle which is attached to the upper control arm to see if the ball joint is loose or not.
These control arms are completely independent of each other, which means you do NOT have to replace these in pairs. Even though one control arm has gone bad, the other could easily have another 100k-200k miles of life left.
Parts used in this video:
- Front Upper Control Arm - (Left/Driver - 51460-S84-A01) - (Right/Passenger - 51450-S84-A01)
- 2.0X35 Cotter Pin - (94201-20350)
0:00 Introduction
0:48 Purchasing Parts
REMOVAL
2:00 Remove Damper Pinch Bolt and Damper Fork Bolt/Nut
3:27 Remove Damper Fork
4:13 Remove Control Arm Cotter Pin, Castle Nut, and ABS Bracket Nut
4:54 Remove Damper Assembly
5:25 Remove Upper Control Arm
INSTALLATION
5:55 Install Upper Control Arm and torque bolts to 47 ft.lbs
6:32 Install Damper Assembly
7:01 Install Damper Fork
7:24 Loosely Install Damper Pinch Bolt and Damper Fork Bolt/Nut
7:50 Install ABS Bracket and Torque Castle Nut to 29-35 ft.lbs
9:00 Install Cotter Pin
10:06 Jack up the vehicle under the knuckle
11:10 Torque Damper Pinch Bolt to 32ft.lbs
11:17 Torque Damper Fork Bolt/Nut to 47ft.lbs
11:27 Torque 3x 14mm Damper Nuts to 37ft.lbs and 2x 12mm Nuts to 12ft.lbs
11:44 Lower the jack, install wheel, and torque lug nuts to 80ft.lbs
12:07 Conclusion
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 98 99 00 01 02 03 Acura TL TL-S Type-S CL CL-S Honda Accord
A worn-out control arm can easily go unnoticed with daily driving, so it's important to inspect your suspension with every tire rotation. Simply jack your vehicle up, place it on a jack stand, grab your wheel, and see if there's any loose play in any direction. Loose play when grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel usually dictates a worn-out upper control arm. You can further clarify this by removing the wheel and shaking the knuckle which is attached to the upper control arm to see if the ball joint is loose or not.
These control arms are completely independent of each other, which means you do NOT have to replace these in pairs. Even though one control arm has gone bad, the other could easily have another 100k-200k miles of life left.
Parts used in this video:
- Front Upper Control Arm - (Left/Driver - 51460-S84-A01) - (Right/Passenger - 51450-S84-A01)
- 2.0X35 Cotter Pin - (94201-20350)
0:00 Introduction
0:48 Purchasing Parts
REMOVAL
2:00 Remove Damper Pinch Bolt and Damper Fork Bolt/Nut
3:27 Remove Damper Fork
4:13 Remove Control Arm Cotter Pin, Castle Nut, and ABS Bracket Nut
4:54 Remove Damper Assembly
5:25 Remove Upper Control Arm
INSTALLATION
5:55 Install Upper Control Arm and torque bolts to 47 ft.lbs
6:32 Install Damper Assembly
7:01 Install Damper Fork
7:24 Loosely Install Damper Pinch Bolt and Damper Fork Bolt/Nut
7:50 Install ABS Bracket and Torque Castle Nut to 29-35 ft.lbs
9:00 Install Cotter Pin
10:06 Jack up the vehicle under the knuckle
11:10 Torque Damper Pinch Bolt to 32ft.lbs
11:17 Torque Damper Fork Bolt/Nut to 47ft.lbs
11:27 Torque 3x 14mm Damper Nuts to 37ft.lbs and 2x 12mm Nuts to 12ft.lbs
11:44 Lower the jack, install wheel, and torque lug nuts to 80ft.lbs
12:07 Conclusion
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 98 99 00 01 02 03 Acura TL TL-S Type-S CL CL-S Honda Accord
zhlédnutí: 394
Video
How to Replace a Brake Caliper on Honda and Acura Vehicles
zhlédnutí 920Před 8 měsíci
In today's video, I'll show you how to replace a brake caliper, and I'll be demonstrating this on my 2002 Acura TL-S with 342,000 miles. Some symptoms of a bad caliper include overheating brakes, warped rotors, decreased gas mileage, and uneven or accelerated brake pad wear. However, these symptoms could also indicate that your caliper slide pins or brake pads are seized and need lubricating. S...
StrongArm Gas Charged Lift Supports - 10 Year Review!!!
zhlédnutí 590Před 8 měsíci
How well do the StrongArm Gas Charged Lift supports hold up after 10 years? Today we'll be taking a look at just that and determining if this is a product worth buying or not. After the review, I'll show you how to find and replace your hood struts. All you need is a flathead screwdriver and it's so easy you can do it with one hand! Also called Struts, these supports can be used to lift your ho...
How to Replace an Alternator for Honda/Acura
zhlédnutí 906Před 8 měsíci
In today's video, I'll show you how to replace an Alternator on my 2002 Acura TL-S. The alternator is responsible for providing the bulk of energy to the components in your car and also charging the battery. A common cause of alternator failure is often caused by a bad battery. Over time, battery cells can degrade and fail preventing them from reaching the desired 12.5v. However, your alternato...
Scraping, Squeaking, or Squealing sounds coming from your wheels? It's time for new brakes!
zhlédnutí 4,8KPřed 8 měsíci
In-Depth How To Change Your Brakes Tutorial - czcams.com/video/hijCgRd8VuY/video.htmlsi=mzcFLexIiwVM_wch How To Lubricate Your Your Brakes to Extend Brake Life - czcams.com/video/wIg6Ttho0vY/video.htmlsi=keVer42MZ_MQnxic Does your car make the same noises as mine? Then it's time for new brakes! Over time, your brake pads will wear down and eventually, they will start making loud noises that may...
How to do a Valve Lash Adjustment for Honda/Acura J-Series V6 Engines
zhlédnutí 2,5KPřed 9 měsíci
Performed on my 2002 Acura TL-S with 340k miles, I will demonstrate how to do a Valve Lash Adjustment service for the Honda and Acura J-Series V6 engines. This service should be performed every 100-200k miles, or if you are experiencing a ticking noise coming from the engine, have a misfire code, loss of engine power, or rough idling. Tools & Parts used in this video: - Offset Feeler Gauges - a...
How to Replace Timing Belt, Water Pump, and Pulley's for Honda/Acura V6 J-Series Engines
zhlédnutí 1,8KPřed rokem
In this video, I will show you how to perform a timing belt service. The belt needs to be replaced every 105k miles before it becomes too brittle and snaps. Many Honda and Acura vehicles have "interference" engines where if the timing belt breaks, the valves and pistons will collide and destroy your engine. You should also replace the water pump, serpentine belt, and power steering belt while e...
Fix your Squeaky Creaky Steering and Suspension Fast & Easy!!!
zhlédnutí 22KPřed rokem
Demonstrated on my 2002 Acura TL-S, I will be showing you how to fix your car's squeaky steering and suspension. The cause is most likely a lack of lubrication in one of the ball joints. The simple solution is to add more lubricant to the ball joint causing the noise. Just make sure you use a product that is compatible with the rubber bushing sleeves. 10/26/23 Update: I performed this on 4/28/2...
Trunk light not working? It's probably your trunk latch assembly
zhlédnutí 22KPřed rokem
Does your trunk/cargo light not turn on when you open your trunk? Does it perhaps flicker or only work intermittently? Demonstrated on my 2002 Acura TL-S, I'll be showing you how to solve this issue. There are 5 things to check for if your light is not working properly: 1. A sticky trunk latch 2. A bad fuse 3. A bad bulb 4. A bad light housing 5. A bad trunk latch assembly Start by checking if ...
Hood Stuck/Won't Open? How to Replace Hood Release Cable - 2002 Acura TL-S
zhlédnutí 6KPřed 2 lety
Over time, the wire that opens your hood may cease, stretch, or break, thus preventing you from opening your hood. In today's video, I will be showing you how to replace the hood release cable, demonstrated on my 2002 Acura TL-S. Parts you need: - Wire Assembly, Hood - (74130-S3M-A01) - 8mm Honda clips - 91512-sx0-003 - amzn.to/3yuOdkQ - 10mm Honda clips - 91503-sz5-003 - amzn.to/3y9HMCe Option...
P1456 How to Replace a Fuel Tank - 2002 Acura TL-S
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 2 lety
Is your car leaking fuel? Do you perhaps also have the P1456 check engine light code for an Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control System Leakage (Fuel Tank System)? It's probably time for a new fuel tank. Since replacing my fuel tank, the check engine light has not come back on, and there isn't a puddle of gas under my car! I will demonstrate how to replace the fuel tank on my 2002 Acura TL-S. Th...
How to Replace Rusted Rear Brake Lines and Fuel Pipes - 2002 Acura TL-S
zhlédnutí 14KPřed 2 lety
Happy New Year and thank you for surpassing 3000 subscribers and 1,000,000 total views! That's insane! It's such a great feeling knowing I can share my knowledge with so many people to help keep your vehicles running longer and save money! I'm excited to see where 2022 takes me! As always, thanks for watching, have a great day, and take care! Over time, brake and fuel lines on older vehicles wi...
Engine Burning Oil? Replace your PCV Valve for Honda/Acura
zhlédnutí 10KPřed 2 lety
In today's video, I will be showing you how to diagnose and replace a PCV Valve. I will be demonstrating this on my 2002 Acura TL-S. This process can apply to pretty much any PCV Valve on any Honda or Acura vehicle, with the exception that it may be located in different areas on different cars. HOW THE PCV SYSTEM and PCV VALVE WORK: The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system has three main...
How to Replace Leaking High Pressure Power Steering Line - 2002 Acura TL-S
zhlédnutí 46KPřed 2 lety
In this video, I will be demonstrating how to replace the high-pressure power steering hose on a 2002 Acura TL-S. Over time in older Honda and Acura vehicles, these hoses can wear out due to the extremely high pressure produced by the P.S. pump, which can be as high as 1500 PSI! This can result in the hose forming a leak, which usually occurs where the rubber hose and metal line meet. If it's a...
Noisy Power Steering Pump? How to Replace Inlet O-Ring - 2002 Acura TL/CL/MDX - Honda Accord/Odyssey
zhlédnutí 22KPřed 2 lety
In today's video, I will be demonstrating how to fix a noisy, moaning, whining power steering pump on my 2002 Acura TL-S. The cause for this noise comes from air getting into the system and being sent through the power steering pump. There are 3 main reasons air is getting into the system: - Low Power Steering Fluid in the Reservoir - A leaking Suction Tube that leads to the power steering pump...
How to Replace Brake Pads, Rotors, & Parking Brakes for Honda/Acura
zhlédnutí 1,9KPřed 3 lety
How to Replace Brake Pads, Rotors, & Parking Brakes for Honda/Acura
How to Replace Transmission Mounts - 2002 V6 Acura TL/CL Honda Accord/Odyssey
zhlédnutí 9KPřed 3 lety
How to Replace Transmission Mounts - 2002 V6 Acura TL/CL Honda Accord/Odyssey
How to Replace Spark Plugs - 3.2L V6 Acura TL/CL, Honda Accord/Odyssey
zhlédnutí 12KPřed 3 lety
How to Replace Spark Plugs - 3.2L V6 Acura TL/CL, Honda Accord/Odyssey
5 Things You’re Probably Forgetting to Maintain on Your Car
zhlédnutí 1,6KPřed 3 lety
5 Things You’re Probably Forgetting to Maintain on Your Car
How to Replace Honda/Acura Transmission Clutch Oil Pressure Switch P0845 P1738 P1739 P1740
zhlédnutí 45KPřed 3 lety
How to Replace Honda/Acura Transmission Clutch Oil Pressure Switch P0845 P1738 P1739 P1740
How to Diagnose, Replace, & Rebuild Shock Absorbers/MacPherson Struts - 2002 Acura TL-S/Honda Accord
zhlédnutí 4,5KPřed 3 lety
How to Diagnose, Replace, & Rebuild Shock Absorbers/MacPherson Struts - 2002 Acura TL-S/Honda Accord
How I Warm Up my 300,000 Mile Car during the Freezing Winter
zhlédnutí 1,1KPřed 3 lety
How I Warm Up my 300,000 Mile Car during the Freezing Winter
How to Diagnose and Replace Wiper Switch for Honda/Acura
zhlédnutí 28KPřed 3 lety
How to Diagnose and Replace Wiper Switch for Honda/Acura
How to Diagnose & Replace a Front Wheel Bearing - 2002 Acura TL-S -- Honda Accord
zhlédnutí 53KPřed 3 lety
How to Diagnose & Replace a Front Wheel Bearing - 2002 Acura TL-S Honda Accord
How to Diagnose & Replace the Front and Side Motor Mounts - 2002 Acura TL-S -- Honda Accord
zhlédnutí 23KPřed 4 lety
How to Diagnose & Replace the Front and Side Motor Mounts - 2002 Acura TL-S Honda Accord
How to Replace & Upgrade Every Light/LED in the Dashboard, Clock, & Center Console - 2002 Acura TL-S
zhlédnutí 33KPřed 4 lety
How to Replace & Upgrade Every Light/LED in the Dashboard, Clock, & Center Console - 2002 Acura TL-S
How to Replace Stabilizer Bar End Links and Bushings - 2002 Acura TL-S -- Honda Accord
zhlédnutí 8KPřed 4 lety
How to Replace Stabilizer Bar End Links and Bushings - 2002 Acura TL-S Honda Accord
Rain-X Silicone Endura Premium $50 Wiper Blade Review and Installation
zhlédnutí 76KPřed 4 lety
Rain-X Silicone Endura Premium $50 Wiper Blade Review and Installation
2002 Acura TL-S 0-135mph at 200,000 miles and hitting 300,000 miles!
zhlédnutí 22KPřed 4 lety
2002 Acura TL-S 0-135mph at 200,000 miles and hitting 300,000 miles!
How long did your Acura go? Just picked one up.
@@A_reel_job_fishing about 347,000 miles so far! A lady side swiped me a couple months ago, so I’ve been slowly fixing the car this last month and hopefully will get it back on the road soon!
Does the same go for a CL
I have a 2010 Acura TL, would it be the same for Lining up the notches with the cylinder number?
@@Confused20000 the overall concept should be the same. The pulley will have clearly marked lines numbered 1-6, line it up as shown similarity in the video, and begin adjusting the valves. The thickness of the gaps may vary from vehicle to vehicle
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome! Just to be sure, I have to align it for each cylinder I am adjusting?
@@Confused20000 correct. I demonstrate this at 15:16. Align each cylinder, and you will be able to adjust both the intake and exhaust valve for that associated cylinder. You’ll know you’re lined up correctly and that you’re looking at the correct cylinder when both the intake and exhaust valves are loose, again as demonstrated at 15:16.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple amazing. Thanks again. Love the videos!
@@Confused20000 you’re very welcome, thanks for watching!
last question, these are your shift solenoids correct? the autozone paper you receive after getting a code tells me P0740 and suggested job is to replace shift solenoids , and drain(and/or) flush transmission fluid. did you clean the screens so you would have to replace any parts?
@@daeveonnash2368 these are not the shift solenoids, nor does p0740 indicate a problem with shift solenoids. Are you sure you have the correct video? P0740 has to do with the torque converter not getting adequate fluid, overheating, and causing faulty shifting. The service manual states the main cause of the issue could be Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C located at the front of the transmission, but it fails to mention to check the Dual Clutch Pressure Control solenoid valves A&B on top of the transmission, the main problem with both solenoids being a clogged screen filter. It also mentions a potential issue with the small single Torque Converter Clutch solenoid on top of the transmission, but I’ve never heard of this being a problem for anybody. Cleaning the screens fixed my shifting problems and thousands of other peoples transmission problems too. But the screens get clogged because most people were not changing their fluid frequently enough resulting in dirty contaminated fluid, as well as never replacing the exterior spin on atf filter, both contributing to clogging the screen filters in the solenoid. So you need to both replace the atf and clean the filters to fix your problem.
do you also think that could be a reason to have a small leak as well?
@@daeveonnash2368 there are a lot of potential sources for a leak. As far as these solenoids go, I’ve never heard of them being an issue with leaking. But that’s not to say it couldn’t happen with a faulty gasket or an improperly installed solenoid.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple got you thanks a lot. literally only video that had helped me
@@daeveonnash2368 you’re very welcome! Glad I have been able to help
Hi. I want to do this but no tools. Any recommended tool sets?
Honestly, you could do this job without a toolset, just as long as you can loosen that white radiator butterfly valve in one way or another. The amount of coolant you drain from the rear engine block drain valve isn't that much to justify buying an entire toolset for. However, if you're looking for a toolset with intentions of starting your DIY car repair path beyond just a coolant flush, I would recommend a toolset that: 1. Doesn't waste any space/money on 12 point sockets. There's an extremely high chance you'll never see a 12 point bolt working on cars, I know I haven't yet despite all the car work I've done. So why waste money on sockets you'll never use? Stick to 6 point hex socket sets. You can always buy a separate 12 point socket set separately if you're unlucky enough to need them. Not including 12 point sockets will further allow the tool set to implement a wider variety of very useful tools you wouldn't have gotten before and it'll include more socket/wrench sizes too. 2. Get a tool set that includes a full set of wrenches and sockets. You don't want your set to skip any sizes, because you'll be surprised when you need those oddball sockets/wrenches, particularly on rusted rounded bolts. Project Farm made a great video reviewing different tool sets that you should check out for more information: czcams.com/video/iEsW-eMLSbM/video.htmlsi=t6Zh3tVgIApQJpAX Based on his review and my personal recommendation based on what I described to look for above, I highly recommend the GEARWRENCH 80966 243 Pc. 6 Pt. Mechanics Tool Set In 3 Drawer Storage Box: amzn.to/4dcULWR It checks literally all the boxes: no 12 point sockets, a full set of sockets and wrenches without skipping any sizes, wide variety of tools and sizes, and the quality of the tools themselves are above average/best in all categories. It's expensive at $320, yes, but totally and completely worth it. If I had to start over, I would definitely buy this kit. My dad got me started with an overall nice Husky set, and while the price and quality of the tools have been great, it has left me needing more tools in many situations at the beginning of my DIY auto journey due to the wasted implementation of 12 point sockets. Obviously you can never have enough tools, but this Gearwrench tool set is the best it gets as far as buying your first tools goes. Hope this helped. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Thanks. For the breathing bolt. Did you remove it completely or just loosened and then attached the tubing?
@@HydroMusicPage you only have to loosen it just enough until the fluid starts coming out. You can crack it loose with a socket and ratchet, then attach your tubing before loosening the drain valve further with a normal wrench. If you need to replace the valve like I did, it simply screws out all the way like a normal bolt
Great videos
P0740?
Yes, cleaning these filters can eliminate your P0740 code!
Question on Pontiac 2008g 6 with check engine light on so I gotta make just sure it no on then
You want to ensure that you do see a check engine light illuminating when you first turn the ignition to the car on. This way, you can ensure the light is working. It's important for this light to work so when a problem arrises, it will illuminate when the car is running to let you know something's wrong.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple what are common problems driver says it drives fine with it on could I leave or needs to be reset
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I’m buying the car Tommorow trying to check everything wrong with it
@@NateVega-jm3zf simply resetting the light isn’t going to fix the problem. The light will simply turn back on within a week most likely. Only reset the light after you’ve made an attempt to fix the problem. There are some things that can cause a check engine light but are barely noticeable, such as a loose gas cap. But nonetheless, it’s still important to fix any issue causing a check engine light to turn on to ensure no additional damage or problems arise and for your car to work as efficiently as possible
Is it the same method for the lower arms
It's a very similar process, except you don't need to remove the strut assembly. Only the damper fork needs to be removed. Thanks for watching!
Does the lower arms or the rear control arms have cotter pins?
@@xortiz7077 from what I can tell as far as my car goes, the front lower control arm has a cotter pin, but the rear control arms do not.
I also smear a thin coating of silicon grease all around the outside of the boots as a protectant and preservative. In fact, all the rubber boots of the steering and drive systems would last longer with an annual coating of silicon spray or grease. But since I have silicon grease on my fingers already as I'm doing my brakes, I just give the boots their application while I'm handling them.
@@rdkirk3834 that’s a very good point! Never a bad idea to rejuvenate them and maintain their condition
I recently had to do this job. FYI - the parts for the Acura CL Thpe-S and TL Type-S are NOT interchangeable. The TL has a square end with two holes, the CL has no square end. I learned that when I took the old one off and realised the old didn’t match the new part.
@@Canakar360 yup, that’s why I show people how to find their parts by entering their vehicle into the Acura website. A lot of parts are not interchangeable with other vehicles. Thank for watching!
Hey brother I had a question regarding the transmission shift solenoids. Open them up and I tested them and they were clear of any debris but the ohm testing what does that mean exactly if it's out of specs? I do a drain and fill religiously and change the spin on filter like I'm supposed to. But just recently the last couple days going into fourth gear I'm getting a really hard shift from time to time it's only happened about three times in 3 days but still it's scaring me so I don't know what to do I'm going to do a drain and fill tomorrow because it's that time. But I just changed the spin on filter at the last drain and fill interval. Any info would be greatly appreciated brother cuz I'm about to have a heart attack over here I don't have the money to do AV6 swap nor the means to do it. Thank you as always brother!
In simple terms, if the ohm reading is out of spec, the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced, either due to an open circuit or a short in the circuit. I doubt your fluid is the problem based on how much you appear to be taking care of it, assuming you're using DW-1. I would recommend replacing the 4th gear transmission clutch oil pressure switch if you haven't already. You can't test the resistance of these, so in a way it's a shot in the dark, however, they are known to go bad and have improved many peoples shifting. I made a video on that as well: czcams.com/video/_I8zfFmVZZI/video.htmlsi=K0kd0lw_bne17y8u
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple yeah I changed the third and fourth gear pressure switches less than a year ago. It might just be about that time brother to get ready to do the av6 swap. It's going to cost about $4,000 to get it and have it installed but that's cheaper than buying another car ain't it bro? Have an awesome day Thank you for responding as always
@@850CANE it's possible it's going out. You could also do an ohm test on Shift solenoid valve C (12-25 ohms) in the front of the transmission, and the Dual linear solenoid (about 5 ohms) on top. Perhaps your resolution could be a slight change in your driving habits. I can tell you I've been driving with an intermittent 3rd gear slip, as well as slow, hard, flared shifting in most gears for about 100-150k miles now. One thing that has really helped overcome this issue is using the manual sport shifter, and whenever I go to shift up, I ease off the gas in a similar sense to driving a manual car. It still shifts slow, and there's still an occasional 3rd gear missed shift, but it makes the shifts significantly smoother. If the rest of the car is in good enough condition, and if you love this car enough, it could be worth it. Idk about you, but around me, I can find nice Acuras from 2004-2012 under 200k miles for $3000-6000. You can get I can tell you on my car, a lot of stuff needed replacing around 300-325k miles, including rear brake lines, fuel lines, shock absorbers, and the fuel tank, all of which are very big and expensive jobs. Not trying to scare you, maybe your car is in better condition than mine. I live in the rust belt and these sort of things are inevitable. Best of luck to you!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple oh wow you make me feel a lot better. Mine only flares 3-4 when I first start driving it when it's cold. Usually only one time. So last weekend I I went to the junkyard and I pulled both solenoids off of an 03 TL. I didn't know which one controlled third to fourth gear so I put both of them off of the donor car. I did a ohm test on both and they were both 5 ohms so I'll pull it off and check it again. After the drain and fill and solenoid change it didn't flare at all after much driving and testing. I thought I had it cured with the solenoid switch. I live in South Florida so not a whole lot of rust going on. I was contemplating if it started getting worse to use only the sport shift. Thank you for the encouragement I was starting to get worried since I definitely don't have the money right now for any major repairs. I commute 55 miles to and from work on the interstate and in the afternoon it's stop and go with a ton of shifting unfortunately. I have 235k on my car. Hopefully with some altered driving as you suggested it'll keep going until I have the $ to either av6 swap or find something else. I love this car though. Thanks again bro!
So you drive only with the sport stick now?
How much does a job like that cost.
If you’re doing it yourself, all the parts you’ll need can be purchased for $40. Links in the description. Otherwise I don’t know how much a shop would charge. Should be less than 1 hour labor, so $75-150? Good luck and thanks for watching!
I'm going today to look at some vehicles for my girl. Borrowed the scan tool from work, and this video really helped! I was raised to go on a handshake, but the majority of the population is out to screw ya!
@@rodger603 it’s a sad world that it’s so difficult to trust anybody nowadays. Definitely inspect the car, especially the fluids. That is the easiest thing to maintain and can also tell you a lot about how well the vehicle was taken care of. Also don’t be afraid to say no to a car! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Being that I own a 2001 TL, I just became a new subscriber to your channel. Have you had any issues with broken lug studs? I would love to see your suggestions on how to go about replacing studs. Also, if one breaks, should I replace all studs? Please advise.
I have never broken a lug. These usually only break in instances of excessive torque, which is why torquing the lug nuts is important, but they can break sometimes due to extreme rust as well. Replacing the studs are cheap and easy to do. You don't need to replace them all, but it might be recommended because even torque on the studs is important for safety. If some studs are clean and the others are rusty, dirty, or simply worn down, that will create uneven effective torque amongst the studs. You'll need to remove the wheel, brake caliper and bracket, and the rotor. Then rotate the hub to where there is clearance out the back for the stud to be removed. Sometimes the heat shield can get in the way and may need to be bent to create that clearance. Take a big sledge hammer and simply wack it out. Then to install it, you'll take an oversized nut to act as a spacer, put it over the stud, then screw your lug nut on after that, and tighten the lug nut to pull the new stud in until it's completed seated in position. Hope this helped! Good luck and thank you for watching and subscribing!
Thanks for your reply. In my case the head of the stud crashes with the hub assembly before reaching the heat shield. I was wondering if yours was the same.
Thanks for this DIY video. I just replaced the struts on my 2001 TL with 350K miles and I wish I would have seen your video before doing so. I reused the center lock nuts, but I didn't use heat to remove them. Do you think I need to replace them? If so, can I replace them on the mounted struts without disassembly? Also, one of the new front struts did not push back out after pushing the rod into the strut. I installed it anyway to see if there was any difference in performance from the left side to the right side and I didn't see any. Watching your video explaining how struts are stored and how they will correct themselves after installation has really put my mind at ease. Thanks for that detail!!!
I wouldn’t recommend trying to replace the center lock nuts with the strut still on the car. If you didn’t use heat, then the nylon should still be in the nut and can retain some of its locking properties. You should be fine :) thanks for watching!
What LEDs would you recommend for the Acura MDX 2002. Amazing video, subscribed.
I personally haven't tried any aftermarket LED's for the dash, but you could try superbrightleds.com, they're a quality brand name company I've gotten other LED's from in the past. Otherwise, you could go on eBay and look for something that has a lot of sales and a good seller review rating. Thanks for subscribing!
Mine just hit 202k and i still pull 144-150💯💯
Heck yeah that’s awesome! These cars are incredible!
I have the same exact car but only tops at at 110mph why is that
@@marcusmack1569 I’m honestly not too sure since this car is governed at 145. Maybe there’s a performance loss somewhere, such as a dirty air filter?
did this with my 2013 Forte and it worked like magic! thank you! really appreciate this vid. I've been trying to figure out why my lights won't turn ON when everything works.
Awesome! I’m glad this worked for you! Thanks for watching
Do a tutorial on how to add an aftermarket stereo
Thanks for the video suggestion!
You should post a POV drive in your Acura TL Type S by the way i also have a 2002 TL-S and watching your videos gave me hope in repairing my car
That would be a cool idea! I was thinking of doing some sort of overall tour of my car, while talking about my journey making it to such a high mileage and sharing all my knowledge of this vehicle. I have a lot of videos coming out this summer, but I'll get to it someday! Thank for watching and good luck with your awesome TL-S!
I would have liked to know this information just before I bought my miata nc since it came with error code u0100 and blows my engine fuse everytime i turn the key to on position, now I am without a car, without money and stuck in a job that i don't get paid enough to repair it and get another job 🙃
@@joegamer1696 that really sucks. Sorry to hear that. Best of luck getting your situation resolved!
03 Acura TL doesn’t want to move when shifting all gears. At the moment it’s overfilled pretty high, saw some bubbles even on dipstick while car was idle.. some people say it’s a CV axle, some say it has to do with shift solenoid, and I’m getting a P1709 code with a MODE SWITCH FAILURE message as well as ALL cylinders misfiring. Tran oil is light brown, and I’m draining as much as possible before putting new fluid and new filter as well.. please help with ANY TIPS! God bless.
Only good explanation online, thank you so much!
@@rasmuswahrborg1214 you’re very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Excellent!
Thank brother!!
Thanks for posting this video.Sorry to hear about the Type S “mishap” as long as nobody was hurt, cars can be repaired.. Your videos are clear and straightforward and extremely helpful. I actually just completed my transmission oil and filter Thanks to you! The new vehicle HAS to be another Acura.. based on how well this one has been for you.. waiting to see what it actually is. Drive safe..
Thank you for the kinds words! That's awesome to hear, glad my video was able to assist you! That seems like a pretty good guess ;) we'll find out soon. I'll be uploading my first of many videos on it later this month!
So informative, thanks! 🔥
Hello I enjoy watching ur videos to hopefully fix my 02 cl-s ❤
Thanks for watching! Hope your CL-S gets fixed soon!
Another trick to put bearings on easier. Put the bearings in the freezer overnight. Put the wheel hub in the oven at 150-200 degrees Fahrenheit. The difference in metal expansion makes a huge difference. The only thing is you may have to remove the wheel speed sensor so that it doesn’t melt.
yup if I could have done one thing differently, I would have put the bearing in the freezer. But everything worked out perfectly!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimpleI didn’t mean to imply that you didn’t do a good job. You did a great job! You’re definitely a good mechanic not only do you fix it, but you diagnosed it correctly.. that’s hard to do sometimes. Nice job and great video. Thanks! I learned a lot watching it!
😂 drops the spark plugs into the hole without caution but has to bring out the torque wrench for 13ft lbs! That was funny!
Wait until you find out that every mechanic (where time is money) also drops them in and doesn’t torque them either 😉
LIQUI MOLY Synthetic Lubricant for Brake Pins 5 g (21119) Is this product suitable for brake calipers? I would be happy to help
You certainly can use that if you wish! It's compatible with rubber, and that's the most important aspect to look for
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple How many pieces should I buy for the front and rear pad caliper and pins? product 5 mg
Thank you
Are they the same switch.. what if I get them mixed up
They have different electric connectors, therefore they are different parts with different part numbers that you cannot get mixed up
03 Acura Cl no S, owned for coming up on 15 years and would love to keep and maintain my boy Blu for another 15 or forever as long I am around. I'm new to your videos and I appreciate how knowledgeable you are and youre ability to easily articulate in great detail a step by step guide to fixing this or that dohickie but with actually needed parts numbers, amounts of quarts [5] ,personal recommendation of said parts, tools needed , tips and tricks to issues you will sure encounter when taking on being your own mechanic hits a brick wall and isn't as easy as seen on some CZcams tutorials make it appear to be. Thank you for the time you've donated to me , us and my journey with blu 42 I'll be checking back with your channel ,with or without an issue I'm going to fix and hopefully more upgrades I'd like to have time and money to get to. Sorry I know thats a lot and here's a lil more. Im trying to type S my non S , I know the interiors door panels , gauges ,shifter, floormats are easy to identify, isnt it the ecu , intake manifold {3.5L will fit but will the 3.7] ,and camshaft the added hp the base model is missing? I've been looking for a donor Cl-s from junkyards and theres more 2014 15 16 and newer from anyone of these manufacturers Mercedes ,BMW ,or Audi , unwrecked then 2gen CL RL TL combined and sometimes add in the 3rd gens and its still less. Alright thats enough from me . for now Thanks again. And some newer parts Ive noticed are starting to becoming discontinued as well . m90 supercharger upgrade video please .thats all folks.
Thank you so much for all the kind words! I'm glad I'm able to help lots of people fix their car including you! Unfortunately, engine swapping is something that I have never looked into or know anything about. Your best bet is to look up info on Acurazine and Acuraworld. Sorry I can't be of any help there. Sounds like it will be a fun upgrade though, good luck!
Can this also create foaming power steering fluid?
It certainly does. Foam is a mixture of air and fluid, so this video very well could be the solution for you.
Sorry to hear about the accident. I have a 03 CLS6 and it has a clunking noise that happens only when I come to a stop or start from a stop. Not any other time. I’ve taken it to multiple shops and they all tell me the suspension is fine. It’s been frustrating to say the least. Any ideas? Anybody
I would check the engine and transmission mounts. Engine mounts only last about 150k before they start clunking, and transmission mounts have an unpredictable life of 200-300k miles before they tear apart. I made a separate video on each
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome thanks I’ll check the mounts
Do a video on how to do the front bushings
They give each blade its own elaborate packaging and graphics; and that adds quite a lot to the price, and makes sure more plastics go into the dump. I know they have to protect them for shipping, but stuff cardboard would probably work as well.
ehh plastic isn't really expensive, especially when mass produced. But I get what you're saying. Best we can do is recycle the packaging
I bought that jetpack thru the dealer and didnt realize it wouldnt work on the 99. Last year the 4 speed auto would be used in the tl.
I’m surprised they didn’t do a VIN check to ensure it would fit on your car. Otherwise, there’s no reason anybody should need to buy the oil jet. It was a recall meaning Acura/Honda has to replace it for free. If you did still need it, you would be getting notifications in the mail, similar to that airbag recalls. They also redesigned the transmission, so anybody that had a transmission replaced after 2005 has an updated version that doesn’t require the oil jet.
Love these guides for old cars maintenance.
Thank you!
Hey man so i just installed a new pump and new o rings but im stilling getting the whining noise, didnt change the hose so that might be it or is it possible that the belt is to tight or to loose? Would love to hear your thoughts thanks for the vid!
It’s possible there’s simply still air in the system too. There are only a few possibilities. Try following the final part of the video by holding the rpm’s up and turning the steering wheel.
So i did this. My car shifted smoothly on the 3rd but then hesitated on 4th and then when slowing down around 20mph it would jerk/shake
Do you have any check engine light codes? If not, when was the last time you changed your transmission fluid? It’s vital to keep the fluid clean and at the proper level in these cars. If your fluid is dirty, there’s a chance they might need to be cleaned again. I might also recommend checking out my pressure switch video. Those are known to go bad over time and need replacing. Sounds like you might need to change both the 3rd and 4th gear switches.
Nice video. I just replaced mine today. I only paid $15.99 plus shipping for two in the package on Amazon.
Thank! And good job! Sounds like everything went smoothly
No.... just no. Those boots keep out dirt and water. Never cut them open.
You’re barely creating the smallest little slit and then using super glue to close it up. It’ll be fine. Plus it already has 345,000 miles on it. Better to try and save it before it fails even quicker if nothing is done.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple or replace it with a greasable replacement. This is a bandaid fix not a permanent one
@@seanreed3103 I would argue this is more than a band aid fix. Using the silicone spray made the squeaking go away for 8 months. I presume an actual silicone paste would last even longer. Unfortunately a lady side swiped me and this control arm is now ruined so I can no longer test my theory. I also advise against greasable replacements. Those routinely need to be greased, otherwise they'll wear out significantly faster, and I know most people won't be diligent enough to keep up with that, myself included because that's one more thing I have to worry about. Especially when I shouldn't have to considering this non-greasable ball joint was still good even after 345,000 miles. Plus most aftermarket ball joints are garbage. I would trust an OEM junkyard control arm over aftermarket anyday.
I can’t figure out why my gas is burning so much. The car does sit for a long time. Vacuum valves , throttle body, and tune was done recently.no codes as well. What do you suggest may be the problem!
Sorry for delayed response, I never got a notification! It could be a lot of things, but starting with the car sitting for a long time, that can definitely cause issues. Gas is only 'good' for 3-6 months. After that, it can draw water vapor into the fuel line if it contains ethanol and cause reduced gas mileage due to absorbed moisture and reduced combustibility, and furthermore form gum residue that can cause blockages and cause corrosion. If you know your vehicle will be sitting for extended periods of time beyond 3 months, it would be advised to use a gas stabilizer. There are also plenty of other things that can cause low gas mileage too, including but not limited to: - a change in driving habits or commute (aggressive acceleration, city/highway driving) - wrong fuel type (should be using premium fuel only) - increased weight in the vehicle - old spark plugs that are due for replacing (due every 105k miles) - dirty engine oil that needs replacing (should be done every 7,500 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first) - dirty restrictive engine air filter that needs replacing (should be repaced every 30k miles) - sticking brakes. Caliper slide pins and/or brake pads may need lubrication. Caliper piston could be corroded and stuck requiring a new brake caliper. Additionally, brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years. - improper tire air pressure - maybe in a rare scenario, your cars wheels aren't straight and need an alignment Neglecting these maintenance items can cause other components to wear out and reduce performance. Try checking these things, and also next time you fill up your tank, add a bottle of seafoam treatment. There's a good chance the engine is gunked up. It can only do good and has worked wonders for many people. Good luck and hopefully this helps!
Damn lol i was thinking because its honda it would be easy…not saying it isnt but got to put some work and have patience. Thank you for this video!!
It's not the worst job in the world. You'll do great. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimplemost definitely not but thanks to you it is now alot easier! I have 189k og miles. After i do this i will come back and let it be known if jt helped
I car had the same noise, I imagined the worst since I fell into a huge pothole. Thank you for sharing this.
I'm glad my video helped and that your issue wasn't bigger! You never know when a small simple video like this could help someone and I'm glad it is. Thanks for watching :)
Damn I changed this, clean the solenoid filter screens and replaced the transmission filter and fluid and it still won’t shift into 3rd
I’m sorry you’re still having issues. Do you have any check engine light codes? Did any of this at least help for a little bit or not at all? And also did you use OEM Honda parts and fluid? Aftermarket stuff has been known to not work and cause other problems
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple the only code that pops up is P0730 and yeah I used all oem stuff shifting for all my other gears feels better but it’s just 3rd gear that it revs up a lot like nothing is happening
@@MexicanGamerDude I might recommend doing an ohm test on Shift Solenoids A, B, & C (12-25 ohms), as well as the AT Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valves A and B (dual solenoid on top, about 5 ohms). You could also do the simple click test where you connect the solenoids to some alligator clips and touch it to your car battery to see if they're functioning properly. See if anything is out of spec and replace as necessary.
VERY GOOD and excellent voice easy and captivating 🎉😮❤well done English man.....
Thank you very much! I appreciate the compliment and am glad you enjoyed my video!