I can’t figure out why my gas is burning so much. The car does sit for a long time. Vacuum valves , throttle body, and tune was done recently.no codes as well. What do you suggest may be the problem!
Sorry for delayed response, I never got a notification! It could be a lot of things, but starting with the car sitting for a long time, that can definitely cause issues. Gas is only 'good' for 3-6 months. After that, it can draw water vapor into the fuel line if it contains ethanol and cause reduced gas mileage due to absorbed moisture and reduced combustibility, and furthermore form gum residue that can cause blockages and cause corrosion. If you know your vehicle will be sitting for extended periods of time beyond 3 months, it would be advised to use a gas stabilizer. There are also plenty of other things that can cause low gas mileage too, including but not limited to: - a change in driving habits or commute (aggressive acceleration, city/highway driving) - wrong fuel type (should be using premium fuel only) - increased weight in the vehicle - old spark plugs that are due for replacing (due every 105k miles) - dirty engine oil that needs replacing (should be done every 7,500 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first) - dirty restrictive engine air filter that needs replacing (should be repaced every 30k miles) - sticking brakes. Caliper slide pins and/or brake pads may need lubrication. Caliper piston could be corroded and stuck requiring a new brake caliper. Additionally, brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years. - improper tire air pressure - maybe in a rare scenario, your cars wheels aren't straight and need an alignment Neglecting these maintenance items can cause other components to wear out and reduce performance. Try checking these things, and also next time you fill up your tank, add a bottle of seafoam treatment. There's a good chance the engine is gunked up. It can only do good and has worked wonders for many people. Good luck and hopefully this helps!
Is your 9 a .229mm feeler guage? So you were going for the tighter adjustment on the intake right? (20mm). My 3.5 TL calls for .20-.24mm but everyone says adjust the intake slightly loose.
15:00 yup the 9 is a .229. I was adjusting all of the valves, both intake and exhaust, with the same adjustment feel. You want the smaller to pass and the larger feeler to either not pass or be very tight. My guess as to what the forums are saying is it’s better for the valves to be too loose than too tight. Too loose and it simply make a ticking sound, too tight and damage can occur.
The original owner changed it every 3-5k miles, then I changed it every 5k for a while. For the last couple years I've decided to do it every 7500. I wasn't confident in longer oil changes due to the transmission problems that require more frequent ATF changes, but over time I've learned Hondas engines are built like a tank and don't need to be babied like their transmissions do. Thanks for watching!
@@Confused20000 the overall concept should be the same. The pulley will have clearly marked lines numbered 1-6, line it up as shown similarity in the video, and begin adjusting the valves. The thickness of the gaps may vary from vehicle to vehicle
@@Confused20000 correct. I demonstrate this at 15:16. Align each cylinder, and you will be able to adjust both the intake and exhaust valve for that associated cylinder. You’ll know you’re lined up correctly and that you’re looking at the correct cylinder when both the intake and exhaust valves are loose, again as demonstrated at 15:16.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple it's AGM Sil-Glyde and it says This high-quality, silicone-based lubricant is perfect for the entire brake assembly and compatible with plastic and rubber (EPDM & Nitrile). So it looks like I should be good, No need to buy anything else. It sat in the sun for 4 hours and turned yellow through the bottle, but it should still work. The spark plug seals are super stuck in there right now.
@@LamoidZombieDog Yup that should be good. Yah they were stuck in there pretty good for me too. Getting the new ones in is a tight squeeze as well, hence why we need the silicone. Hope everything goes smoothly and thanks for watching!
Feasible if you're this guy in the vid lol If it ain't leaking that bad, I would personally leave it until it needs tranny work since it has to come out to get to the RMS.
With the right equipment, yes. It’s certainly going to be a big job since the engine and transmission needs to be removed, so I wouldn’t recommend it to beginners.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Had mine done a few months back. Only the trans has to be removed to access the RMS that sits between. Are you still on the original trans? I remember that you got a lot of mileage out of it...
@@Watts378 ohh I assumed the engine did need to come out, good to know! I haven’t had to replace one yet. And yes I am on the original engine and transmission! 342,000 miles 😎
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple That's incredible man!! Good job 👍👍 Ya the RMS is between the trans and engine. Love the 2gen content. My 03 TLS has 199k KMS. I appreciate your channel and knowledge. Cheers.
I was wondering when this video was gonna drop. Kudos to you man!
Yah I meant to upload it earlier but it’s been a busy month! Thanks for watching!
Yeah your valve train looks mint! Good job on maintenance.
Thank you so much! And thanks for watching!
I can’t figure out why my gas is burning so much. The car does sit for a long time. Vacuum valves , throttle body, and tune was done recently.no codes as well. What do you suggest may be the problem!
Sorry for delayed response, I never got a notification!
It could be a lot of things, but starting with the car sitting for a long time, that can definitely cause issues. Gas is only 'good' for 3-6 months. After that, it can draw water vapor into the fuel line if it contains ethanol and cause reduced gas mileage due to absorbed moisture and reduced combustibility, and furthermore form gum residue that can cause blockages and cause corrosion. If you know your vehicle will be sitting for extended periods of time beyond 3 months, it would be advised to use a gas stabilizer.
There are also plenty of other things that can cause low gas mileage too, including but not limited to:
- a change in driving habits or commute (aggressive acceleration, city/highway driving)
- wrong fuel type (should be using premium fuel only)
- increased weight in the vehicle
- old spark plugs that are due for replacing (due every 105k miles)
- dirty engine oil that needs replacing (should be done every 7,500 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first)
- dirty restrictive engine air filter that needs replacing (should be repaced every 30k miles)
- sticking brakes. Caliper slide pins and/or brake pads may need lubrication. Caliper piston could be corroded and stuck requiring a new brake caliper. Additionally, brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years.
- improper tire air pressure
- maybe in a rare scenario, your cars wheels aren't straight and need an alignment
Neglecting these maintenance items can cause other components to wear out and reduce performance. Try checking these things, and also next time you fill up your tank, add a bottle of seafoam treatment. There's a good chance the engine is gunked up. It can only do good and has worked wonders for many people. Good luck and hopefully this helps!
Is your 9 a .229mm feeler guage? So you were going for the tighter adjustment on the intake right? (20mm). My 3.5 TL calls for .20-.24mm but everyone says adjust the intake slightly loose.
15:00 yup the 9 is a .229. I was adjusting all of the valves, both intake and exhaust, with the same adjustment feel. You want the smaller to pass and the larger feeler to either not pass or be very tight. My guess as to what the forums are saying is it’s better for the valves to be too loose than too tight. Too loose and it simply make a ticking sound, too tight and damage can occur.
Bro. How often u change oil. That valve train is clean af. My front one on my 07 tl was pretty varnished up but rear wasnt too bad.
The original owner changed it every 3-5k miles, then I changed it every 5k for a while. For the last couple years I've decided to do it every 7500. I wasn't confident in longer oil changes due to the transmission problems that require more frequent ATF changes, but over time I've learned Hondas engines are built like a tank and don't need to be babied like their transmissions do. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2010 Acura TL, would it be the same for Lining up the notches with the cylinder number?
@@Confused20000 the overall concept should be the same. The pulley will have clearly marked lines numbered 1-6, line it up as shown similarity in the video, and begin adjusting the valves. The thickness of the gaps may vary from vehicle to vehicle
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple awesome! Just to be sure, I have to align it for each cylinder I am adjusting?
@@Confused20000 correct. I demonstrate this at 15:16. Align each cylinder, and you will be able to adjust both the intake and exhaust valve for that associated cylinder. You’ll know you’re lined up correctly and that you’re looking at the correct cylinder when both the intake and exhaust valves are loose, again as demonstrated at 15:16.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple amazing. Thanks again. Love the videos!
@@Confused20000 you’re very welcome, thanks for watching!
Can i use silicone brake lubricant for the silicone paste? Its all silicone paste..
Yah I’m sure that would work. Just as long as it’s compatible with rubber. Usually says on the bottle
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple it's AGM Sil-Glyde and it says
This high-quality, silicone-based lubricant is perfect for the entire brake assembly and compatible with plastic and rubber (EPDM & Nitrile).
So it looks like I should be good, No need to buy anything else. It sat in the sun for 4 hours and turned yellow through the bottle, but it should still work. The spark plug seals are super stuck in there right now.
@@LamoidZombieDog Yup that should be good. Yah they were stuck in there pretty good for me too. Getting the new ones in is a tight squeeze as well, hence why we need the silicone. Hope everything goes smoothly and thanks for watching!
Looks like I will need to replace my TL's rear main seal. Do you think it's DIY feasible?
Feasible if you're this guy in the vid lol
If it ain't leaking that bad, I would personally leave it until it needs tranny work since it has to come out to get to the RMS.
With the right equipment, yes. It’s certainly going to be a big job since the engine and transmission needs to be removed, so I wouldn’t recommend it to beginners.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Had mine done a few months back. Only the trans has to be removed to access the RMS that sits between.
Are you still on the original trans? I remember that you got a lot of mileage out of it...
@@Watts378 ohh I assumed the engine did need to come out, good to know! I haven’t had to replace one yet. And yes I am on the original engine and transmission! 342,000 miles 😎
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple That's incredible man!! Good job 👍👍
Ya the RMS is between the trans and engine.
Love the 2gen content. My 03 TLS has 199k KMS. I appreciate your channel and knowledge. Cheers.