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depends on which ND filter, the 64 is way to strong for most conditions so yes the 32 is probably the max one i ever use but yes 16 might be an even better option dpending on the day. since 100 is the lowest it can go sometimes i like to have a little buffer at 2-400 so if i set that i can drop to 100...but i havent check to se eif theres any update for the air unit. currently there are some limitations i dont like when it comes to semi-manual and automatic exposure controls =/

yeah to bad they discontinued them and went more govt contract building, but even at 4yrs old still kills and newer DJI! yes i was DEEP into eSkate from 2017 to 2021 but have since slid over to FPV... i got 1 eskate left for sale if youre interested?

@LifeofAccro thanks but I'm more interested in building one myself lol! Sometimes I think I like building the drones as much as I do flying them lol!

yup still working great! might have to try for a 12 next!

Google or ask ChatGPT, what is the method for your particular Mac

@@LifeofAccroGot that and changed the terminal code. My camera still doesn’t show up in any software (OBS, Streamlabs, Zoom, etc) besides Canon webcam utility. I don’t get it.

It's pretty straightforward. You will see where the old ones came from and where the new ones go to. You just lineup the attachment and gently press in and it will snap into place.

@@LifeofAccro legend! Thanks for answering that. I just didn't want to bend any of the pins by trying to force it in!

Nope, no audio unfortunately. For FPV, it's really not that big of a deal for me, but I could see for other action sports where you want. Some of the background sound that could be a bit of a nuisance.

@@LifeofAccro thank you

should work, your sure youre in recovery, everything is typed/spaced exactly? if one little thing is off it wont work. You could also go into disk utility app on mac and see what value it assigns the hard drive and use that value and maybe that will work..

definitely not true...

no, i wouldnt go over 3amps for most reputable cells....per parallel group..so 1p 3a, 2p 6a...etc... It's not like the cells are gonna blow up necessarily if you charge it 4A, it's just not in the best interest of their long-term health... but 2 amps is usually best for all cells' longevity

@@LifeofAccro ok 3 amps thats not to bad per pack Thks man

The spec sheet on molicel p42a cells says they can be charged at 4.2 amps. They are 4200 mah so that's 1C. I just built 2 6S packs with those 2100 cells and have been charging them in parallel at 8 amps, which is less than 1C. Haven't had them heat up or anything while charging. I'm no expert and these are my first lion packs, but I'm happy I did it cuzz the flight time is outstanding compared to lipo! I've been getting 13 min of flight on my 7.5 inch, and covering a total of around 10 miles for the duration of the flight! I think my drone may be a little amp hungry for lion cells though cuzz the packs have been pretty warm after coming back from a flight like I just mentioned. They are still over 3.1v per cell, and it's been hot out, so not sure. Anyone else lion packs get warm during flight??

Well, if you'd like to download the black box, log and look for yourself here is the link to the original Reddit post where I put all of the links up. www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1byhpk7/fire_escfc_ignites_on_a_basic_roll_why_watch_end/ If you pull up the table, right before the motors go dead it actually says 35 A total across all four motors before everything dies. I'm open to having a technical discussion if somebody is so inclined but as of right now, it just seems to be a bunch of speculation. It would be one thing if I was pushing the drone at 50 to 60% throttle and I said something like well I was only doing 125a and its rated at 200..... But regardless of how inconsistent the amp meter might be if I'm using less than 25% throttle for a small little blip at a hover, that is leaving way too much headroom to assume there was too many amps to do a basic roll... But take a look and let me know your thoughts if interested. thx

@@LifeofAccro When i was talking aboue amp metering, im not talking about inconsistency. im talking about wrong calibration. I have seen way to much wrong currect calibration, meaning - on one build i just arm and hover and my amp meter is showing 45A. or on other builds i had full throttle punch, and my amps hover in 10-20A range, when my motors are screaming at top rpm. you just cant trust the blackbox log, or your OSD for current measurement, unless you properly calibrated or at least verified that current meter is in the ballpark of correct measurement. in your case, im not sure. your motors dont spin more than 60% in your log, but there's lot more gyro noise on roll than on pitch or yaw. could have been that some component gave out and shorted, but for sure it looks like something shorted, because 50-60% motor output will not be enough to draw so much amps to melt solder. thats my assumption given so little i can gather from this situation.

Yeah, I saw some reviews on it, I don't like the underside spot for the remote. I like having easy access and just one big deep bag and pocket like shown in this video. Even been six months later I'm still very happy with this bag and all the storage and easy in and out. Also, I have yet to travel with my drones, so I don't have any particular need for internal storage for a plane trip, but even if I did, I would most likely put a portion of the stuff in a carry-on roller so I could have a dedicated backpack for my other electronics like a computer and what not.

thx friend!

Reviewed again. FC spacing looked fine. Bad ESC (FETs) or bad soldering on motor leads? If it was just one set of motor wires, I'd guess it's soldering. Since it's both, I'd blame the ESC.

which version did you have? so far the v3 i have on my 7" has been solid BUT ive also never run a large lipo on it either, only liion... maybe i underestimated it for a 10", but just got the v4 wired up now since the fire, waiting on a couple other items before i can get back to test flights and tuning

@@LifeofAccro I believe was the v2 I had. Iv got the V3 but not used it yet lol

just got done installing a new one...the v4 this time.. sadly to fond out the receiver and gps are dead but the AU works and so far the motors spin up and sound fine....so far... =/ im still having a hard time believing its the 5000mah battery that killed it though since i wasnt even close to WOT

@@LifeofAccro 👍🏻glad you’ve got it sorted now and the air unit was ok

i dont remember but most likely it was either what they had in stock and available for the price point i was going for but i was also taking chris rossers recommendations based his frame and suggested components

@@LifeofAccro Thanks for the reply! Im building mine right now! Do you have instagram maybe (if you like) we can stay connected

Fk speedybee escs the fcs are good tho, perfect match is hobbywing 60a esc, 405, or F7 speedybee, dual caps(Panasonic 50v 1000(a must beyond 6in) insulate the caps if inside the frame with marine grade shrink wrap

I use speedybee F7 v3 in 6 quads ranging in size from 5" to 10" and never had an issue.

​@@cinemoriahFPV Risky Business!

Never had any probs with my SpeedyBee stacks.

Yeah, nothing to do with PIDs or settings You can even tell exactly when the stack failed, and its when the throttle was blipped, and more amps were delivered than your ESC can handle. Be aware of the power train of your quad

We will see when I add this new stack. I got the slightly newer speedy bee v4 which is rated at 55A, however, this was not the first time I had flown with a Lipo it was just the first time flying with a 5000 mill amp Lipo versus the 1000-200 I typically use use.... With that said the blackbox file says I was only pulling 17 A when I did that little blip before the role. But I guess we will see once I get everything installed once again and set up =/

@@LifeofAccro A 1200mah at 150C for example, is 1.2a x 150C = 180amps /4 motors= 45amp draw per motor. 5000mah is 5amp x 50c= 250amp / 4motors = 62.5amp draw per motor. Your esc asking for full power from the 5000mah lipo can draw 62.5amps - thats why adding the 5000mah is different from the 1200mah. This is why manufacturers have recommended batteries for BnF quads, its so you dont introduce more power than their esc can handle

​@@LifeofAccrowell, i think this is another problem you didnt notice.. the weight, 5000mah is more than 2x the 2000mah weight, that leads to more usage of the motors and consequently, more power draw. This combined with the speedybee stack, and their amp delivery capability, completes the chain for the incident.

@@rubberonasphalt not a bad point, i do forget that lipo C rating and discharge changes with capacity... but even then shouldnt the stack have a limit on max amps somewhere? shouldnt matter if the motors want 100amps each (even if i had a battery that could) the FC should have some sort of predefined max threshold is stops delivering at, right?

It looks like when the left side blew up all the fire went out that side, which is what attached all the motor wires, and since the air unit was forward a little bit, it must've been just enough space that the TPU didn't melt, but some of the wires off of the air unit need to be replaced.

It is the speedy f405, it's my second time using this stack, it works just fine on my 7 inch with a 6S2P battery and I'm usually never pulling more than 30a while moving at a intermediate click. I still don't know exactly what the issue is, but I flew this quad harder earlier in the day as mentioned. There must've been something wrong when I switched from 48K to 24K..... but I guess we're about to find out as I've got a new stack coming, the same same one. I guess I will just stick to 48K in the meantime...

@@LifeofAccro I also have a 10 inch with 3115 motors. 24k pwn 60 amp esc. no issues. UAV tech tune sux. He has dynamic idle way too high for a 10 inch, causes major flying issues.

@@bartbutler9960 good know, will keep in mind. The only reason I was tinkering with tuning or trying to understand it is because I was watching Chris Rosser's newer videos on filter tuning, which is the first and the series, I hadn't even touched the sliders or anything anything before the ESC blew up. even when I go back and review the black box log I can see the exact moment I pump the throttle lightly to do the barrel roll and I'm not even pulling 17amps.... I'm not sure if it has anything to do with enabling the rpm filters... but otherwise the UAV tune was flying all right in general, I was just trying to see if I can get rid of some of the bubbles and wobbles when throwing flips and rolls keeping in mind. I know this is not meant to be a freestyle quad, but who doesn't want to fly a little bit fun and outside the realm of just cinematic long range =P