Video

Bro you need to grab some Keizen or Shadow foam! Makes life easy. Really nice tool choices though! Thanks for the vid👍

Should you top-off the brake fluid in the master cylinder, or leave some space for the hot fluid expansion?

Hey a video of your face, thanks. Instructional video without any instructions. May need a new Weight and Balance after all that filler. (Sorry to be a dick, you're just a kid, so please take this in the humorous manner it was intended) 🤪

X=field

Do you ever see any difference using the flower pot and then cross checking the marks on the starter ring gear? I just wonder if they ever show a difference, and if so, how much. I do this procedure with no A&P license. On my homebuilt. 😁

Cherry lok standard or bulbe??

Nice Job Guy...same with my profesi, Nice to meet you

If you know, what metal is the strut made from, steel or aluminum?

Where did you get the foam? I picked up a box and has none

Brother you cant work anywhere in europe with that messy box! And even if you do everyone is going to consider you a not so trustworthy mech

Wow! Thanks for all your hard work. Hard work and videoed it. Felt your pain (but didn't skin my knuckles).

Great work man. I am pulling the rudder pedal bars on my 210 right now, is how I stumbled on the video. I pulled the cabin door to make it easier to work in the plane. Also anytime you are working on a Cessna Single retract nose gear take a look at SK210-155. The tool for this is unobtanium, but you can do it without the drill guide using a mill (so I am told). Also SE84-3. I think I might have to bring my plane to you, great work.

Too much fluff. How much would I pay per hour while you tell stories and talk about your tools?

Yo man where you been?

Liked the SnapOn toolbox and tool review

Would you have been able to extend the repair bracket all the way to the firewall to reinforce the whole rudder pedal mounting area on that side rather than just the crack at the aft bolt? Seems like a better idea since you are already in there to extend the repair bracket to also strengthen the fwd bolt mounting area. Thank you for posting. Definitely a challenge with the limited space to work.

What about the two flush rivets on the door aft of the lower hinge? They looked pulled through, hard to tell in the video. As a standard practice whether going to paint or not, lay down a moving blanket or some sort of protection for the paint. Other customers coming into the shop have no idea that aircraft would be going to paint, seeing your tools laying all over the wing is bad practice. I would have done a wet application of the repair brackets, rain and moisture would work right behind that in flight. Thank you for posting.

Great job

I would like to see how to jack up a low wing aircraft for disc brake replacement

Why was the inner tube replaced? What were the symptoms that led you to determine that it needed a new tube?

Replaced a rebuild carburetor from aircraft spruce, so long story short the carburetor turned out to be defective. Send it back RMA required etc. aircraft down until it was decided on their end it in fact was defective that took 5 weeks . Air spruce finally sends me another carburetor at no charge. Well the a&p ia doesn’t want to install it for free first time install $1000 second time install $1000. Big question I have who is responsible to pay for the second install. Well certainly not aircraft spruce it’s against their policy so it must be the rebuilder no it’s not their policy either. One would expect aircraft spruce using a vender that doesn’t check the carburetor for failure would be responsible. No they stress it’s against policy I suggest they revise their policy. So installing a carburetor is quite labor intensive in a Mooney one doesn’t want to do this job twice. Be careful who you buy your rebuild parts from otherwise it could cost you double. There are better suppliers out there , some company’s have grown big enough and take advantage of us unaware consumers. Thanks for the video

Remember to K.I.S.S.! USE the Ring gear markings. So called "Flower pots" are a waste of time.

very good my friend

very good

Good and nice hands on toward the task ..thumbs up

Nice work. Repair was very nice.

Two comments: My mechanic insists that we remove the #1 spark plug just to check the timing at annual. It's not a big deal, because we have to clean and check the plugs anyway. But, unless I'm an idiot, (maybe I am), EVERY cylinder fires at 25 degrees BTDC. And, it doesn't matter which cylinder you check the timing. The only reason to find top dead center on compression stroke of the #1 cylinder is to INSTALL a magneto. But, you still must set the prop at 25 degrees BTDC before you put the mag in. Once it's in there correctly, it doesn't make a hoot which cylinder is on the compression stroke to check the timing. Now, the only reason I watched this video is to see what value you torqued the magneto hold down clip nuts. As usual, no one torques them to a specific torque value. The Lycoming engine manual doesn't give a specific value except for where it says, "17 to 19 ft lbs, or 204 inch pounds, for a 5/16th bolt, nut, or screw". The reason this is so dear to my heart is, I once had a mechanic over tighten a mag, cracking the flange. It almost killed my wife and I. There NEEDS to be a specific torque for magnetos. Why don't we have one?

Great video. Thank you.

I just started my apprenticeship a month ago, and ive become really insecure because i suck at the job Ur videos really help, ty so much really

Are you suppose to check to see if it is working before you sign it off or are you just sign off the install? Thanks for the video.

Do you have to loosen the attachment bolts at the root ? the wing does show considerable drop once the strut is removed. Does this cause any damage to the wing spar? Thanks

Going for my test tomorrow and mags are truly a pain point, but between this and multiple other great videos I think I'll be ok.

Which material have you used?

It would be nice if you’d actually show an oil change including the safety wire

The only way I can get my magneto to get timed !!! Is when I go past TDC and the impulse couplings snap !!! And I go back to my degree and adjust the magneto . What am I doing wrong ???

Hey Andrew, you forgot to tell everyone not to turn the prop before removing the pin from the back of the mag or you will be repairing that mag all over again. Doug

Ok...Sorry, I get it 360°. I have to move the video around to see everything. Hey I'm old. Thanks for the video.

Audio indicates that you know what you're doing. But you can't see anything on the video. How did you hook the tubes. How did you apply the pressure. Did I see a different video with all that edited out?

Time lapse is ok however I’m watching your videos to learn. Would like to see more dialogue during the removal. Otherwise thank you

Hey sexy. Lol. Finally got my A&P. Yay🎉

Muito bom.

Good video, but some direct lighting on the engine degree wheel & magnetos would be nice to see exactly what you are doing.

Dont forget to wear eye protector.

Forgot to turn locking wire end in so it cannot catch your hand if you reach into that area.

Hope you never lose anything

Awesome 🤩

Well done 👍🏻

How to protect hands while doing that?

Use a better checklist so you get all the explanations and details in the video. Mag-rite has a great instruction card that can be laminated and used as a checklist, just won’t have all the explanations on it.

Nice work… sounds like a tormented cat in the background 😅