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Jet L
United States
Registrace 13. 04. 2015
Learning how to 3d Print one layer at a time!
*Milestones*
Hit 100 subs on 1/30/17
Hit 200 subs on 8/10/17
Hit 300 subs on 3/3/19
Hit 400 subs on 8/10/19
Hit 500 subs on 12/21/19
Started posting printer content 6/14/24
Hit 1,000 subs 7/10/24
Hit 2,000 subs 8/11/24
*Milestones*
Hit 100 subs on 1/30/17
Hit 200 subs on 8/10/17
Hit 300 subs on 3/3/19
Hit 400 subs on 8/10/19
Hit 500 subs on 12/21/19
Started posting printer content 6/14/24
Hit 1,000 subs 7/10/24
Hit 2,000 subs 8/11/24
This is the ULTIMATE AMS Lite Upgrade
In today's Video we are going to be checking out the ultimate ams lite printable upgrade!
Sponsor: PCBWAY
www.pcbway.com/?from=JetL
Makerworld original creator:
makerworld.com/en/models/486153?from=search#profileId-398821
Filaments:
Clear PLA-a.co/d/1nWk5Xi
White PLA-a.co/d/dDaAu2r
PETG-a.co/d/jl4mmAl
Desiccant packs:
a.co/d/af4pqGt
Hygrometer:
a.co/d/5O3pyIM
-------------------------------------------------Chapters----------------------------------------
Intro 0:00
Pieces and plates 2:47
Putting it together 4:13
Installing on ams lite 6:11
Putting together lid 6:55
Sensor install 7:29
Desiccant holder 8:31
Final clips 10:00
Outro 10:22
Sponsor: PCBWAY
www.pcbway.com/?from=JetL
Makerworld original creator:
makerworld.com/en/models/486153?from=search#profileId-398821
Filaments:
Clear PLA-a.co/d/1nWk5Xi
White PLA-a.co/d/dDaAu2r
PETG-a.co/d/jl4mmAl
Desiccant packs:
a.co/d/af4pqGt
Hygrometer:
a.co/d/5O3pyIM
-------------------------------------------------Chapters----------------------------------------
Intro 0:00
Pieces and plates 2:47
Putting it together 4:13
Installing on ams lite 6:11
Putting together lid 6:55
Sensor install 7:29
Desiccant holder 8:31
Final clips 10:00
Outro 10:22
zhlédnutí: 7 739
Video
3D Printing: Solving Life’s Problems, One Layer at a Time
zhlédnutí 7KPřed 21 hodinou
In today's Video we are going over real life practical 3d printing! I apologize for misspeaking in the video, the abs items were not printed on the A1 mini, however everything else was. I have heard rumors that the a1 mini can print abs with an enclosure so I will look into this and get back to everyone to provide a solution! Cable Organizer Video: czcams.com/video/nNkSKJ2pWYc/video.htmlsi=i_n4...
Transform Your Cable Storage with 3D Printing -Bambu Lab A1 Mini
zhlédnutí 26KPřed 14 dny
In today's Video we are tackling cable organization with 3d printing! Gridfinity base: Ikea alex A1 mini: makerworld.com/en/models/28581?from=search#profileId-24968 Parametric base: makerworld.com/en/models/476846?from=search#profileId-387853 Bins: Box 1: makerworld.com/en/models/510993?from=search#profileId-427092 Half box: makerworld.com/en/models/386944?from=search#profileId-287424 Parametri...
Bambu Lab A1 Mini - The New King of Budget 3D Printers?
zhlédnutí 15KPřed měsícem
In today's Video we are going to look back at one month with the bambu lab A1 mini and go over its biggest strengths and weaknesses! My favorite filament: a.co/d/el1yTgQ Chapters Intro 0:00 What I love 1:25 What I don't like 7:01 What i've learned 10:11 Would I buy it again 13:41
ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro/3 Plus/ 3 Max EASY Extruder Replacement Tutorial
zhlédnutí 429Před měsícem
ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro/3 Plus/ 3 Max EASY Extruder Replacement Tutorial
10 MORE MUST-PRINT UPGRADES for Your Bambu Lab A1 Mini 3D Printer
zhlédnutí 14KPřed měsícem
10 MORE MUST-PRINT UPGRADES for Your Bambu Lab A1 Mini 3D Printer
Bambu Lab AMS Lite System: Worth It In 2024?
zhlédnutí 3,4KPřed měsícem
Bambu Lab AMS Lite System: Worth It In 2024?
8 MUST-PRINT UPGRADES for Your Bambu Lab A1 Mini 3D Printer!
zhlédnutí 42KPřed 2 měsíci
8 MUST-PRINT UPGRADES for Your Bambu Lab A1 Mini 3D Printer!
The Bambu Labs A1 Mini: The Ultimate 3D Printer for beginners?
zhlédnutí 3KPřed 2 měsíci
The Bambu Labs A1 Mini: The Ultimate 3D Printer for beginners?
nicely made video , although it was not meant as a tutorial i would be able to put that together with how you explained it . happy to subscribe!
Thank you! that was the goal for the video
Great video and perfect timing! My A1 combo is being delivered today. Not only does it look like this will work well but it I think it makes the whole setup have a better appearance. Also, I was happy to see you tear the desiccant open as I use dry beads. Great video. I will print this!
that’s awesome! you’re gonna love the ams lite
Never even thought about the humidity being an issue, but where I live there's currently 76% humidity outside so it seems like a great thing
I didn’t realize how much it can affect print quality
Two questions if you don't mind 1 - How difficult is it to get the spools out when changing? 2 - Does the RIFD still read the spool tags?
no problem, as far as changing the spools the only added step is rotating the locking clips which takes a total of about 5 seconds, everything else is the same process. I don’t print with bambu filament so I haven’t tested if it will still read but that is a great question so i’ll find an old roll and give it a go
Wow you already got a sponsor. Congrats!
Thanks! 😃
How many spools of filament did it take to print the entire enclosure?
just under 1 spool. it takes 450 grams per side (2 spools) so 900 grams for the complete project
I'm literally printing out the last part of mine right now.
perfect timing
Funny, I was testing 3 different high speed PLAs available on Amazon and Elegoo Rapid PLA+ (grey) was the price-performance winner for me 😄(12,6€ or 14,0$/kg for a 4kg pack) Here my calibration results on the A1-Mini if anyone is interested (all filaments pre-dryed): Temperature tower: I settled at 235°C from the resistance I got from pushing in the little spikes with a pen (I like to print hotter at higher flow rates to compensate for decreased layer adhesion). Layer adhesion was second best. From 210 to 250°C nothing looked bad. All overhangs perfect. Bridging was as good as perfect at every temperature. Max Flowrates: 30mm³/s @235°C 34,6mm³ @260°C Flow Ratio: 1.01 (did the calibration test with high flow rate, so use 1.00 or .099 if you notice over extrusion) Retraction: 0,3mm sufficient Pressure advance: unnecessary with A1's flow calibration. After that I ordered 4kg more and tried using them out of the box without drying. Optical results (prints) are not as good now. Need to dry them again. Flow rate winner was Polymaker Polysonic PLA with 37mm³/s at 250°C. All overhangs perfect. Bridges 210-230°C good, then little sags, at 250° good again. Very soft/weak material. Also the most expensive. Stiffest material & best layer adhesion was Eryone HS PLA+: 33mm³/s@235°C. All overhangs perfect. Almost no bridging even at 235°C. But progressively worsening bridging from there. Not unacceptable, just the worst bridging of the 3 tested
that is interesting, i’ll have to give it a try
@@jet_lea You could give your standard Elegoo PLA a Max flowrate test with similar temperatures first, before buying the High Speed one. Maybe there is so little difference, that it's not worth switching 😆... who knows. (Orca Slicer has the Max flowrate test build in at the "Calibration" tab under "More..." if you want it conveniently auto generated. Or download it from any platform).
@SebasTian-od7oz i will definitely give it a try, I haven’t experimented much with any advanced settings yet but it’s definitely something I want to try out
Love my ultimate AMS lite enclosure! Although, I just saw another option posted on Facebook this morning so I may have to try that one too 🤣 🤣
Give them both a try and let me know what you think
hi-Grah-mitter! Great video!
good to know!
Great video! Just found this enclosure for the AMS Lite last night, i guess imma print it now lol
might as well
Great job finding that model and showing it to us! My AMS is collecting dust, since I exclusively print from Dryboxes now, even PLA (you can guess why 😏) So I was disappointed that I never really got to use the AMS to it's full potential and I was just waiting for a good Drybox-conversion to come along! So I might give that one a try, thanks alot! ...but wait... ...since you have a "Drybox" too now... 😏 Any fexible/TPU is a material you should absolutely give a try. Unfortunately flexibles do not work on the AMS Lite though, so you need a different drybox 🤣 (look for a second comment regarding that at some later date) They open up a whole world of possibilities. More than PETG, ABS or any other material, since those all basically are the same: more or less stiff. So flexibles are at the other end of that property spectrum. If you never try them, you could potentially miss out on 50% of the fun Jokes aside, on my A1 Minis alone I've used flexibles for 3 upgrades: Extruder cable straightener, a poop bucket mounted on the purge wiper (printed in flexibles for less rattling noise) and a double Nozzle holder (same reason) that perfectly fits in the right-sided hole of the protrusion that the filament cutter lever pushes against. For starters I'd recommend going with a small 500g spool of 95A hardness or harder. Note: I have 2 A1-Minis. Tested flexibles on a 3rd actually. Two A1-Minis printed them like a god, the third one could barely squirt out any flexible material all. Under-extruded horribly. I still need to find the main issue and will probably write a ticket if I can't figure it out. But so far reducing the drag on the filament path helped a lot with the extruder being able to gripping and pushing the filament better. (500g instead of heavy 1kg spool, using ball bearings instead of hanging the spool on a rough printed rod and shortening the PFTE tube as much as possible that feed from a drybox directly into the extruder) So be aware that your mileage may vary. I hope though it was just bad luck on my end and that A1-Mini in question got shipped with some uncommon hardware defect like a weaker extruder spring or similar...
Thank you for the tips! I’ve tried to print with tpu just to test it out with great results so far however I haven’t had a practical print using tpu yet. i’m sure the day will come soon
This instantly nakes the AMS lite a lot more interesting and valuable! 🤩 Thanks for the showcase
Glad you like it!
@Jet L Here some extensive tips from personal experience on how to further increase bed adhesion and things good to know: -) Wash your build plate with brand quality dish soap (not the cheap stuff) after a few prints. Wiping it down with isopropyl alcohol is sufficient for most times but it tends to smear fats around instead of fully dissolving them. -) Use microfiber cloth. Paper and cotton towels leave tiny fibers on the build plate which can (almost negligibly) reduce bed adhesion due to them being like dust particles. Also cotton, paper etc. cloths are abrasive and can scratch the nice "holographic" build plates (they are cool, give them a try :). -) Was an eye-opener for me personally: (Any brand of) specialized glue for 3D printing. (NOT glue stick or hair spray, they reduce adhesion). Especially once you get into materials that warp, this will make your prints SO much more likely to be successful. They hold your part down in the corners like they are fused together with the build plate. Once the plate cools down the glue releases. Awesome. (I prefer 3DLAC Plus as small pump spray, to save space. Also I can refill it into even smaller pump spray bottles. Not a fan of the huge pressurized spray bottles that also make a mess. Additionally I use the touch application version (looks like a stick) when I don't want a spray-mess on the printer, when leaving the build plate on (also it's cheaper than the green Bambu stick). I ALWAYS use 3D printing glue when I print something long or important. -) Smooth PEI plates have higher bed adhesion. Textured PEI plates are mostly sufficient and are in many cases better for crazy sticky materials. Also they are more convenient, since the print releases easier once the plate has cooled down. But the overall bed adhesion of (hot) textured PEI is slightly worse. That is also why it needs to run 5°C hotter than the smooth PEI sheet (check out the parameters in Bambu Studio). The hotter PEI gets, the better it sticks to most filaments. -) Use a brim for tall prints, small footprints and/or sharp corners. The "Mouse Ear" option can save you a lot of work in post processing. (Check out Slant3D's 4min video: "Stop Using Brims, Do This Instead") This option is available in Orca Slicer, so I recommend using it for that alone. Also its basically 99% the same UI as Bambu Studio, just has slightly more options and novel techniques tend to get implemented faster there. -) Increasing extrusion width for the first layer (squeezing out fatter lines) can increase pressure and thus the material might bond better with the bed. Also it slightly increases surface area / reduces number of crevices. -) Similarly, reducing the first layer thickness might result in more application pressure, but I would not play around with that and stick to 50% nozzle diameter. -) Increasing bed temperature (and/or melting temperature for the first layer) can also increase bed adhesion. But you need to keep the plate at that hotter temperature for the whole print for it to keep the effect. -) Reducing first layer printing speed might also help, but honestly... I do the opposite on my A1-Minis and run fine with it :D -) Excellent point from you: Reducing printing speed has nothing to do with layer adhesion initially, BUT when printing fast the printer starts extruding inconsistently (makes waves, blobs, leaves residue) and when the print nozzle rushes over the part it scrapes over those structures and can knock the print of the build plate if bed adhesion was insufficient. -) In some cases rafts might help (ever had the need to use one yet). -) Ive also heard roughening up or "refreshing" build plates with sand paper can help adhesion, but I haven't tried that out myself. And finally The glue stick misconception: It is not used to make prints stick better! Glue stick is meant to create an interface layer between bed and print, so the print is able to release at all, if you printed with a crazy sticky material like TPU or PETG. In a sense you can say: glue stick's purpose in 3D printing is to take bed adhesion down a notch in a controlled way. Personally developed the following application method: Do not smear glue stick on the build plate directly like thick paste, like you see it in every video out there. It makes a mess, is a very inconsistent application method, you use a ton of glue stick unnecessarily, and it makes the thickness of the build plate vary (if you care). Instead spray the build plate with isopropyl alcohol first where the print will be. Spray a good amount, so that it does not evaporate in like 10 seconds. Now take the glue stick and gently glide with it over the surface. (This was not possible before.) With this you can now regulate the amount applied in a very fine way, since one pass leaves like 1/30 the amount of glue stick it would normally. The more often you pass over the same place now, the more glue stick gets dissolved in the alcohol and subsequently layer adhesion gets reduced in fractions of a level with each pass (up to some point). You could make a video about that method, since I've nobody seen using that so far. (Only once you tried it, verified it for yourself that it works and got a lot of experience of course, don't parrot tips just because they sound plausible). Also I've made my own "glue-stick spray" where I use 80% alcohol, 20% distilled water (I figured "since glue stick is water soluble") and dissolved roughly some 5% glue stick in that, trying to rip and squeeze it apart in the solution. Took a while. Heat helped. Doesn't spray well (squirts one jet) but it gets a bit higher concentrated solution on the plate faster. I use one finger to distribute the solution on the build plate then, since I intend to get reduced layer adhesion anyway when using it. First I thought of getting a silicone brush or something similar but turns out the things you have "on hand" are often the easiest to use 😄
wow this is some really great info, thank you for taking the time to write this. I’m sure it’ll be super valuable to tons of people
Thank you for the video. I am not sure how air tight this enclosure is and if it really helps keeping out all the humidity, but for sure a good dust protection.
There is only a small amount of air space in the holders, therefore any ‘outside’ air drawn into the compartments, due to air pressure changes, or filament use, will be negligible. Any moisture which does get in, will be quickly absorbed by the desiccant. This is supported by the fact that the humidity in the container dropped by 15% over night, and in all probability will drop even further, if reuse-able Silica Gel is used. I have P1S/AMS Combo loaded with Silica Gel, and the RH in the AMS is usually 10%. It increases slightly when I replace a filament spool. I keep the, not in use, filament spools in a sealed container, also loaded with SG. After a day, or so, the RH reverts to 10%.
I had my doubts as well but it is now sitting well under 20% with an ambient humidity of around 35%. in my opinion this is a significant improvement
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing. 🎉
Thanks for watching!
i love to keep my filament covered to keep the cat hair off it lmao
This would definitely do the trick
Glad you printed the enclosure. I'm very happy with mine, too! I have wall mounted the AMS Lite to save a lot of space. Some things to consider for anyone interested in the enclosure: 1. I used PTFE tubes for the connection between the enclosure and the AMS motors. If you do, make sure the tubes do not extend outwards of the enclosure. I made that mistake and had terrible binding issues. They should sit flush with the outside, at least it you wall mount the AMS. 2. The little plates with the numbers on them can be really difficult to press on the enclosure. I chamfered mine a bit which made it much more manageable. 3. Be very careful when moving the desiccant boxes. I had mine open by mistake and spilled dessicant all over the cupboard, nearby board and floor. I am still finding beads over a month later. I wish the designer would have used a sliding instead of a press mechanism for the lid, but as long as your careful, things should be fine.
Hey, these are all great tips! I also have this enclosure setup and wish this video was out a couple weeks ago before I did mine but I managed 🤣 I’m curious about the PTFE tube portion of your comment…would you mind elaborating on that a bit more? Thanks!
Thank you for the tips! I would also be interested in hearing more about this PTFE tubes
Yo amazing video! Cool project and super well made 😊 you got a new subscriber and I’m sure you’ll get to 5k soon
Thank you so much!
How much filament did you end up using?
for one side (half of the ams) it takes 450 grams or 900 grams to fully enclose everything
Great video! I’ve never been too worried about humidity here in so cal but seeing that overnight drop has convinced me to print this. Thanks!
Uh…in LA the humidity is 87%…PETG gets soaked in a day or two. That said, the designers put the humidity sensors right in front of the desiccant, so those readings are literally worthless. I have made a few dry boxes and learned there needs to be an air-tight seal for there to be any real-world impact. If air cycles through the container the desiccant gets saturated and you have to replace it dry it. There is a model for basically the same thing, but each spool gets its own container. This means the air gets cycled when you put the spool in it and that’s it.
Considering I haven’t been using any sort of filament dryer, I consider any drop in humidity to be an improvement. This also works as a dust cover to keep your filament clean!
What's your light over your desk? It looks great
I definitely like it. I got the light from an auction so i'm not entirely sure which model it is however the brand is "neatfi"
made one few days ago. it brilliant design! Great Video my friend
Thank you!
Good job... I have been trying to figure out how I can take my machine mobile. You have just solved my problem
glad I could help!
Color-changing desiccant beads are the thing to get. You can tell when they’re saturated because they change color and they’re “rechargeable”: dry them out in a low temperature oven or microwave on defrost and they’re ready to suck up that moisture again!
That’s definitely something i’m going to look into!
Hygrometer: hi grom ehh (like meh without the m) ter
noted
You may not have humidity but you have scorpions and I’ll take humidity over scorpions any day! 😂
honestly i agree with that 100%
Yeah but scorpions are no problem for your 3d prints afaik. so you gotta get your priorities straight 😉
Scorpions had a few running around in Australia doing home extension just put them in a jar preserved for conversation peice 😆
Cool prints! definite love the handle one especially. However, I am having some trouble with getting the screws for the spool holder to thread in. Any advice on trying to get those screws in there?
it definitely took a lot of pressure. I had to pretty much thread the screws through the handle to create threads in the print. then proceed to screw it into the printer. I hope this makes sense!
I'm struggling with this as well. I took the handle off and have been working at it trying to get the screw to "catch" and hopefully brute force it in. I got my Bambu A1 mini 2 weeks ago. It did not come with the more robust hex driver you have. It comes with the basic long L hex driver.
I managed to get it on. Screwing it on while the handle it removed is much easier to accomplish. Lots of pressure required.
what printer are you prrinting the ABS on?
it was printed on a p1s, I apologize for misspeaking in the video
@@jet_lea Nah all good man, great stuff
Thanks for checking it out!
I would check your desiccant, it looks like the kind that dissolves when fully saturated and makes a thin soup like mix.
I didn’t know that was a thing! I will check it out, thank you!
Great video mate
Thanks!
Also out of Arizona and work with about 5 other people(out of a team of ten) that all 3d print and do electronic projects. I would love to see a local community of Arizona makers.
I would to, that would be amazing!
Thanks for the info. Your videos have given me soooooo much info that when I got my a1 mini I had no problems 👍
Glad I could help
Ooohhh
yes
@@jet_lea My A1 is busy for the next several days but my X1C comes tomorrow, I know what it'll be printing for the A1 first haha
I wish you printed them on the a1 mini to show us how
I definitely could make a video in the future about it!
@@jet_lea yes please 💕💕
Now I'm kicking myself in the butt even more because I didn't buy an AMS with my A1 Mini. Biut, I want to congratulate you on your PCBway sponsorship. It's cool that you got a sponsor so early in your CZcams career.
I also got the a1 mini without the ams and I wish I saved that 100$
Thank you! I did the same thing and now that I have the ams system I absolutely love it
The amount of usage I get out of my ams is probably 5% of my prints with my mini. Granted I only print functional items. Unless you're printing fun landfill items you're best off with just saving the money for filament.
Congrats on getting sponsored! Did you say you printed those on a P1S? Where the P1S videos then 😂? Any issues printing these parts? And last question....any issues using Elegoo filament, or petg in general? Great video and keep em coming Jet 😊
Thank you! Yes they were printed on the p1s and I’ll be honest with you, I like making videos about the a1 mini because they’re relatable for more people however i definitely have some p1s videos planned. I have had zero issues with elegoo filament and it’s all i’ve used. I have also had zero issues with elegoo petg, it prints just as easily as pla for me
Haven't even finished the vid yet, saw this pop up and immediately clicked on it. Looks cool.
Thank you!
Been thinking about doing one of these so thank you for this!!!
I would definitely recommend it!
1st Could you do an a1 mini maintenance video? Keep making good videos almost to 5000🎉
It is definitely in the list of planned videos!
@@jet_lea good to hear can’t wait
Love the organization! I’d like to know how much did it cost to print the entire thing and how much PLA etc. did you use? I just purchased the A1 and I’m getting excited so I’m binge watching all things Bambu Lab.
That is a great question! I would love to make a follow up video in the future to go over everything
Thank you to Alexandre Chappel, originator of the grid system, for making our lives so much easier.
definitely!
what about the center of mass of the printer? i'm just afraid that mounting the spool on the top of the main tower will unbalance and - possibly - makes the printing process less accurate. btw, thanks!
I had the same concern and printed daily for about a month before getting an ams unit and noticed zero changes in print quality or consistency!
love the video but next time you probably don't want to show your keys to a bunch of 3d printing people
mistakes were made and locks have been changed.. 🤦♂️
Thank you for sharing your experience and views on 3D printing and A1 mini. I am thinking about buying a1 mini with ams lite. My question is what four color PLA basic filament to buy?
Elegoo makes a really good pla pack that comes with white, black, red, and blue filament. I would highly recommend it
@@jet_lea Thank you. Any benefit in buying Bambu lab filament?
Great video , can you tell me where you found that white lamp on your desk? Been looking for something just like that. Thanks!
Thank you! I got the light from an auction so i’m not entirely sure which model it is however the brand is “neatfi”
im gonna needd that top down view
Ordered my printer which is coming on Friday. Definitely stealing some of your ideas sir 💡💡💡
do it!
Love your business idea. I’m going to be selling miniatures for 1/12 dioramas, dollhouses, action figures, etc. I want to buy the A1 Combo now so I can print bigger!
I bet you won’t regret it!
Can share a link with the filament u use?
Just added an amazon link to the description!